Club Obi Wan

RaiderZee wrote:Lantzn, according to what I found on the Testors site, the gun metal blue color is only available in the 1/2 oz. bottle, not in the spray. The gun metal spray is actually a darkish gray-green color (#1455). Am I wrong?

I am testing several metalized black sprays this week; I'll report the results.

RZ

Tundrarider wrote:Would these be of any help for color/distessing reference?

Michael

RaiderZee wrote:You're right, Jeff, these initial kits offered by me and Wade cannot hold a candle to Rook's magnificent WGs. His work is something I, too, could never hope to match.

However, our kits are FAR better than the other Indy gun DIY resin kits now available. They are intended for the masses: people who can't afford or missed out on Rook's masterpieces. I think our kits fill a definate need in the Indy gear spectrum. They are great holster beaters, and can be as good as the time you put into them. Me, if I had a Rook WG, I'd be TERRIFIED to take it out. It belongs in a museum

Now, Wade IS planning a full-on WG prop along the lines of Rook. Stay tuned . . . Meanwhile, it's great to get all this input on how to finish our basic kits. I like the Plasti-Dip idea, but, personally, I don't want a WG grip with a "rubbery" feel, so I'm trying to get the right color for the vulcanite grips.

BTW, DuraCote makes gun paint that will work on plastic. You need an airbrush, but it may be worth checking out.

RZ

Tundrarider wrote:Looks awesome, djd!!!

For those of you still working on this, I have some ideas:

The best way to replicate the "wearing off" of blueing on the gunmetal background would be to apply the paint likewise.

1) If the gun has been painted orange, lightly steel wool or sand it until the orange is gone in the "high wear" areas. (So the orange doesn't re-emerge later when sanding. )

2) Spray the gray primer.

3) Spray the Gunmetal Silver/gray.

4) Spray the Blueing paint. (Light coat)

When dry, start gently with the steel wool in taking down the Blueing paint in the wear areas. The larger exposed areas will show more silver while the recessed areas will retain the bluing. The high wear edges and corners should have a very defined and sharp silver "line" to them.



When you are satisfied with the final finish, perhaps a light coat of clear sealer either semi-gloss or gloss. Then a final light rub with the steel wool.



Here's a pic of Russ's WG. I believe he may have used a similar process for his.



The trigger and hammer are not "blued" and it is evident in both the actual WG and Rook's. The grips sholuld also be solid colored.

One more thing, I would recommend working very slowly in taking down the paint. It took years of wear to do this "for real" so it will pay off to take down just a little at a time until it looks just right to your eye. If you take down too much, you run the risk of having to apply more paint. The more paint you apply, the less sharp the edges and detail will be, making it appear less like metal and more like resin.

Best to you on your projects!

Michael

NOTE: Forgive me if I make this sound like it's as easy as pie. Everything is "easier said than done" and I haven't actually painted one of these replicas. I'm just pulling from my experience in painting and crafting.

Rook had the luxury of having lots of molded replicas to "practice" on. It paid off. If I only had one of these, I would buy a few cheap toy plastic guns so I could experiment and practice with the painting and distressing until I achieved the desired result, before attempting it on the real thing!

Tundrarider wrote:Hi Jameth,

I can't recommend any "blueing spray" as I haven't actually painted one of these. My advice was more toward how to do it as opposed to what to use.

All of the pics (except the last) I posted were of my ACTUAL WG, posted as reference for someone trying to get the look of an actual revolver. The last pic was of Rook's awesome replica.

My posts were for two reasons. One, if I were painting one of these, I would like to have some pics of a "real" WG for reference. Second, I'd also appreciate any helpful hints wherever I could get them.

Sorry for the confusion.

Michael

Tundrarider wrote:Raider Zee asked for the dimensions of the lanyard ring since his WG is still with Wade. I thought you guys might be interested, as well, in case you were working on finding a workable solution to this piece.
Best to you with your projects!

Michael

Tundrarider wrote:Would these be of any help for color/distessing reference?

Michael
]

RaiderZee wrote:OK, all WG kit owners, here's the straight low-down on the lanyard rings:

I have found rings that are pretty close to the size and shape needed:


These should arrive to me by early next week. I will cut a slot in the ring and pry one side up a bit to help you get it on the post. You'll have to close it CAREFULLY yourself then paint it; be sure to use paint that will adhere to bare metal (try Rustoleum Universal paint in the funny looking can).

Now the truth: odds are good that, if you handle the kit much, especially in a holster, the resin post will snap off (sooner or later). It's also very tricky just to get the ring on, but it can be done. This seems to be an inherent weakness on other resin casts with these type of rings, not just ours. But there is an out . . .

I plan on replacing my resin post with this:
This is a rifle sling kit that is very close in dimensions to a real WG post. It comes as a set, but the one of the right would be the easiest to use. Slap a plastic 1/4" bushing on the one on the right, screw on the nut (snug but not too tight so that the post will turn), drill a hole in the grip, epoxy the bushing and VOILA! You have a very solid post that will turn.

These are on closeout for about $6.99 on several websites. Do a search for "Uncle Mike's MP 130 Bolt Action Rifles Swivels" and you'll find them. But they are no longer being made, so get one quick if you want one. I ordered 3 today.

RZ

RaiderZee wrote:OK, all WG kit owners, here's the straight low-down on the lanyard rings:

I have found rings that are pretty close to the size and shape needed:


These should arrive to me by early next week. I will cut a slot in the ring and pry one side up a bit to help you get it on the post. You'll have to close it CAREFULLY yourself then paint it; be sure to use paint that will adhere to bare metal (try Rustoleum Universal paint in the funny looking can).

Now the truth: odds are good that, if you handle the kit much, especially in a holster, the resin post will snap off (sooner or later). It's also very tricky just to get the ring on, but it can be done. This seems to be an inherent weakness on other resin casts with these type of rings, not just ours. But there is an out . . .

I plan on replacing my resin post with this:


This is a rifle sling kit that is very close in dimensions to a real WG post. It comes as a set, but the one of the right would be the easiest to use. Slap a plastic 1/4" bushing on the one on the right, screw on the nut (snug but not too tight so that the post will turn), drill a hole in the grip, epoxy the bushing and VOILA! You have a very solid post that will turn.

These are on closeout for about $6.99 on several websites. Do a search for "Uncle Mike's MP 130 Bolt Action Rifles Swivels" and you'll find them. But they are no longer being made, so get one quick if you want one. I ordered 3 today.

RZ

RaiderZee wrote:The ring on my 2nd Model HE is 1" W x 7/16" H (both OD). I make it to be a tiny bit smaller than the WG ring. It is a closer match than the rings I have mentioned, mainly due to the look of the post. Potential drawbacks: 1) not sure offhand how you would mount it on a one-piece grip (on a cast with separate grips, no problem) and 2) they're more expensive ($13 to $25 plus shipping).

RZ