Anybody have a custom made with a lower crown- 5- 5 1/4 inch

In-depth discussion of the Fedora of Indiana Jones and all other hats appearing in the Indiana Jones movies

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Post by Fedora »

Does she actually refer to the Raiders' fedora in a book? Is this the Hollywood Costuming Book? How in depth does she go?
I dunno. I am waiting to find out myself. Someone seemed to quote her, and I assumed it was from a book that perhaps she had written recently.
I, rest my case.
Oh no. This case will probably never be solved. Not completely. Too many contradictory stories involved. Who do you want to believe? Memories fade, etc. Deborah? Swales? They seem to have different memories. But at least we KNOW it was an HJ-right? No matter that it doesn't look like the HJs provided for the other two films. Different felt, ribbon, etc. Fedora
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Post by Fedora »

Ah, I just did an Amazon search and Deborah had a book to come out Nov. 2007. I bet she talked a bit more about the Raiders fedora, and this is where the info came from. I think we need to quote and give sources of new material. It is less confusing in that manner. But then again, perhaps Johnny and I are the only ones that did not know. Where is this new info posted at anyways, here on COW, other than this thread? I must have missed it. But new info is always good ambush material. :lol: When used strategically. :wink: Fedora
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Post by 3thoubucks »

This is directly from the book "Dressed". I wrote it down by hand in the bookstore the day the book came out.
- "The fedora was one that I designed, based on an Australian model" ..... "Lowering the crown and shortening the brim suited Harrison's long face..."
This is all she said about the Raiders hat, besides saying she got it at Herbert Johnson. .... ................. ................ Here's the first hat I lowered in front, from November 2006. (Regular Fed) I did it because Fedora's Raiders hat survey measurements put the front pinch height at around 4 1/2 inches. This was before I ever looked for an old transition line on the Raiders brim. Image A weird thing- lowering just the front of the crown, transitioning crown into brim, , in effect, gives you a "dimensional cut" - without any cutting. Another thing- if this transitioning was done before the hat was turned, (likely), you might see this-(from Raiders) a diagonal line that indictes the extent, left to right, of the transitioning in front. Pretty close to the front pinch now, because the hat got turned after? Image ................ ............................... ............................................Fedora said
But if you buy an older HJ, you will not see the really low stitches
I have an HJ from I'd guess the 40's, and the sweat is sewn in about 4 mm above the brim break, like you say. My 1973 model is sewn in at the break. They both have nylon or wire reeds. Niether have a "flanged" reed. For a transition to end up out on the brim, you'd have to cut the reed, or move the sweat up into the crown. Someone just borrowed my Raiders DVD permanently. I think if the blueray version comes out, we can see whats really going on. 8) Fedora- since you shaved, you look a lot like Harrison Ford in your new avatar. :lol:
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Post by Fedora »

They both have nylon or wire reeds. Niether have a "flanged" reed.
That is so strange. I have owned, oh, 5 or 6 vintage HJs, and all had the flared sweats. Yet, yours did not have it. That's what the reed is in the sweat for, that is, to flare out, or flange the bottom of the sweat so it sits in the hat better. Generally speaking, the stitch line at the brim break is put so low because the sweat has not been flanged. On a flanged sweat, on my vintage HJs, the stitching was about 3/16ths an inch above the brim break. And hand sewn by the way.

You mentioned nylon or wire. My vintage HJs used neither material in so far as the reed is concerned. I don't know what the reeds were made of, but, it looks like some sort of natural substance, almost like a.......reed. That is, plant material.

This is directly from the book "Dressed". I wrote it down by hand in the bookstore the day the book came out. Quote:
- "The fedora was one that I designed, based on an Australian model" ..... "Lowering the crown and shortening the brim suited Harrison's long face..."
This is all she said about the Raiders hat, besides saying she got it at Herbert Johnson
Ok, so the comments about the lowered sweat was conjecture. It was stated as a fact, or that was the way that I read it originally.
Fedora- since you shaved, you look a lot like Harrison Ford in your new avatar.

I think so too. :lol: Fedora
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Post by Mac »

3thoubucks, do you believe that Nadoolman, by that statement, meant that the hat was actually made in Australia and simply sold by HJ? Or do you think that she meant that her design for the hero hat was inspired by an Australian model, such as the Bushman, and that they found a hat at HJ and modified it to conform to her idea of what the hero hat should be?

CitRon, maybe a lower crowned AB like Erri's hat is the way to go. Erri that hat looks great!

- Mac
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Post by Kokopelli »

I bet they just screwed with those hats so 25 years later y'all would be trying to figure out what they did.
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Post by Erri »

Mac wrote:3thoubucks, do you believe that Nadoolman, by that statement, meant that the hat was actually made in Australia and simply sold by HJ? Or do you think that she meant that her design for the hero hat was inspired by an Australian model, such as the Bushman, and that they found a hat at HJ and modified it to conform to her idea of what the hero hat should be?
This is a good question. Dozens of people on COW met her and I don't recall anyone asking something like that.
Mac wrote:Erri that hat looks great!- Mac
Thanks Mac :D :D
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Post by eazybox »

Mac wrote:3thoubucks, do you believe that Nadoolman, by that statement, meant that the hat was actually made in Australia and simply sold by HJ? Or do you think that she meant that her design for the hero hat was inspired by an Australian model, such as the Bushman, and that they found a hat at HJ and modified it to conform to her idea of what the hero hat should be?

CitRon, maybe a lower crowned AB like Erri's hat is the way to go. Erri that hat looks great!

- Mac
This question was covered at length in 2 recent threads: "Deborah Nadoolman: Raiders Hat Had Chin Strap ???" in the Fedora section, and "I Need Questions" in the Lao Che's Table section.

According to _, there are receipts proving that all the hats supplied to Raiders were HJ Poets.

Jack
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Post by Erri »

eazybox wrote: According to _, there are receipts proving that all the hats supplied to Raiders were HJ Poets.

Jack
Sorry if I insist but it still doesn't answer to our questions. I mean, we know too well that the hats were Herbert-Johnson. It's not a breakthrough.
What would be news is information about her so called australian model and the fact that she claimed to have designed the hat based on an australian model.
Mac's questions still remain unanswered (and good questions too). I hope next person who meet her could ask clarifications about that, if she's not claiming "bulls" to give more credit to herself, it shouldn't be a problem to get this information.
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Post by eazybox »

Erri wrote:
eazybox wrote: According to _, there are receipts proving that all the hats supplied to Raiders were HJ Poets.

Jack
Sorry if I insist but it still doesn't answer to our questions. I mean, we know too well that the hats were Herbert-Johnson. It's not a breakthrough.
What would be news is information about her so called australian model and the fact that she claimed to have designed the hat based on an australian model.
Mac's questions still remain unanswered (and good questions too). I hope next person who meet her could ask clarifications about that, if she's not claiming "bulls" to give more credit to herself, it shouldn't be a problem to get this information.
The question was put to her by someone at The Raven; she described an Australian Slouch Hat as her inspiration for the Raiders hat. This was all covered in the 2 threads I mentioned. I'm not sure we could ever get any more specific information after so much time has gone by-- memories tend to get faulty, etc.

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Post by Erri »

I don't buy the story of her memory. I mean, ok she could not remember the size, and more specific details which no one would ever remember but she must remember whether the hat was actually made in Australia and simply sold by HJ or if her design for the hero hat was inspired by an Australian model, such as the Bushman, and that they found a hat at HJ and modified it to conform to her idea of what the hero hat should be.
I mean this is something that a costum designer shoud remember. It's like asking to a painter where he got insipration for one of his old paints. Even after ages he would still remember.

Unless she didn't get involved as much as she claims... that would explain imediately a convenient loss of memory that just allow her to say that she "designed" the hat.... for what that could mean
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Post by eazybox »

Erri wrote:I don't buy the story of her memory. I mean, ok she could not remember the size, and more specific details which no one would ever remember but she must remember whether the hat was actually made in Australia and simply sold by HJ or if her design for the hero hat was inspired by an Australian model, such as the Bushman, and that they found a hat at HJ and modified it to conform to her idea of what the hero hat should be.
I mean this is something that a costum designer shoud remember. It's like asking to a painter where he got insipration for one of his old paints. Even after ages he would still remember.

Unless she didn't get involved as much as she claims... that would explain imediately a convenient loss of memory that just allow her to say that she "designed" the hat.... for what that could mean
I see what you are suggesting more clearly now. It would be good if someone could sit her down and get all the information she can remember about the hat; it would certainly be worth another try, with very specific questions asked. Whether it would lead to a conclusive result seems problematic, though.

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Post by Dutch_jones »

Well the poet was an excisting model. Tom Baker wore the hats in season 12 of Doctor Who but at that time, it didn't have the brim trimmed. And the crown appeared to look lower because the ribbon was much bigger than the one they use now.
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Post by eazybox »

Yeah, I think we're at least safe in assuning the Raiders hat was a Poet; I think the main point Erri is trying to clarify is whether or not Deborah modified the Poet to resemble whatever hat originally inspired her, and exactly what hat that was.

Jack
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Post by Erri »

eazybox wrote:
I see what you are suggesting more clearly now. It would be good if someone could sit her down and get all the information she can remember about the hat; it would certainly be worth another try, with very specific questions asked. Whether it would lead to a conclusive result seems problematic, though.

Jack
That's it Jack :D
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Post by eazybox »

Erri wrote:
eazybox wrote:
I see what you are suggesting more clearly now. It would be good if someone could sit her down and get all the information she can remember about the hat; it would certainly be worth another try, with very specific questions asked. Whether it would lead to a conclusive result seems problematic, though.

Jack
That's it Jack :D
Good to know I can get something right! :D

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Post by Erri »

Ahaha, good to know I can still make myself understood :lol:

Ok aside from this little (but interesting) off-topic of an off-topic. Let's hope someone will ask something interesting to Nadoolman next time and let's go back to the topic of this 5.25" inches hat.

If I'm not mistaken it seems that in this thread a possibility of a 5.25" hat has emerged. This is a very interesting turn from the usual belief that never left space for anything shorter than 5.5".
I only found out by chance that a 5.25" hat looks good (very good). Of course it depends a lot on the head and I'm glad my head doesn't pop up the crown. Consider also that Raiders hat was never pushed extremely down, so even if the crown pop up after a certain point, doesn't mean that the hat is necessarily not accurate, maybe you're just pushing it too low down.

I've also noticed that several people here have hats with crown shorter than usual but I don't see them posting in this thread, don't be afraid my friends, I've seen many of you with shorter hats, you look good, don't be shy! :wink:
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Post by Fedora »

You know, I have brought it up before, but the "Poet" may have been referred to as the Australian model by someone at the HJ shop. Since Banjo _ was around in basically the same time frame as the creation of the Poet, i.e. late 1800's, this hat may have been dedicated to him, hence the word "Poet".

I am sorry, but I can't see the inspiration for the Raiders fedora coming from a slouch hat. The Raiders fedora looks like a fedora, if you took the turn out, and much more like a fedora than a slouch hat. I just can't see it by looking at the results. Can anyone see a similarity of he two? Perhaps it is my eyes. Fedora
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Post by Fedora »

We may get some news from Ron at Hatsdirect here shortly. He is going to Akubra and is gonna look through their old blocks they still have, but do not use in their hats today. He had heard somewhere that the block ended up at Akubra and is gonna check that out. I know several years ago we had a pic posted from Akubra of some of those old blocks and one looked very similiar to my vision of what the Raiders blockshape actually was. At least at that time. Hopefully he will email me and keep me informed. Fedora
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Post by Michaelson »

Aeris_Canon wrote:Between the Indy and the Slouch? No. That does seem a far cry.

But the Bushman in a darker brown? Not so much.

Image
AC, you're looking pretty peaked this winter. You need a bit more sun, old friend! :shock: :lol:

Regards! Michaelson
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Post by Erri »

Fedora wrote:We may get some news from Ron at Hatsdirect here shortly. He is going to Akubra and is gonna look through their old blocks they still have, but do not use in their hats today. He had heard somewhere that the block ended up at Akubra and is gonna check that out. I know several years ago we had a pic posted from Akubra of some of those old blocks and one looked very similiar to my vision of what the Raiders blockshape actually was. At least at that time. Hopefully he will email me and keep me informed. Fedora
This is news to me Steve. Are you saying that Akubra had THE block all along? I can't avoid to ask why wasn't it used when, with Hatsdirect, the Federation Deluxe was created? We would have avoided a super high tall crown and saved years of block-research that you and others have done with much, and appreciated, passion.

If this story of the block is true anyway, then it was really their australian model ! :shock:

Also, maybe it's time to ask Akubra to decrease their 6" Deluxe to a more respectable indy height of 5.5", if not 5.25!.
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Post by Fedora »

This is news to me Steve. Are you saying that Akubra had THE block all along? I can't avoid to ask why wasn't it used when, with Hatsdirect, the Federation Deluxe was created? We would have avoided a super high tall crown and saved years of block-research that you and others have done with much, and appreciated, passion.

If this story of the block is true anyway, then it was really their australian model !

Also, maybe it's time to ask Akubra to decrease their 6" Deluxe to a more respectable indy height of 5.5", if not 5.25!.
Oh, that is just rumor really. Ron mentioned it to me recently. As to why Ron did not try way back when, I don't think he had heard this rumor at the time. It must have been fairly recent that he was told this by someone.

Now why or how the block may have ended up at Akubra, I have no clue. I guess I don't know the whole story. I think Ron felt it was just a rumor, but he was gonna check it out anyways on his next visit to Akubra. Fedora
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Post by Erri »

I see, well I'm surely curious to know what news from Hatsdirect you can report us Steve.

Aeris, very nice hat there, clearly the bushman works very well. How tall is it anyway? On David Morgan website I read it should be a 5.25", can you (or anyone owning one open crown) confirm it?
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Post by Erri »

Did a post go missing Steve? :shock: :?
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Post by 3thoubucks »

It's interesting to note the SAB and David Morgan notes on the Poet and Bushman. - SAB
A tall crowned wide brim fur felt called "The Poet", as it had been made continuously since the 1890's and was ageless.
DM
worn in the outback since before 1900. It is related to the old snap brim Fedora, and was the first hat imported by Akubra from England. It was also the first hat made by Akubra when they started manufacturing in the early 1900s.
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Post by Fedora »

It'd be nice if they looked and "found" the block back there, Fedora. Ask him to look around past the 6" Feds and into the 5.5" Bushman block section. Somewhere between the Squatter and the Bushman (unaltered) there should be something of a Raiders block waiting to be found.
I am interested in what Ron writes me back in regards to this. I think Akubra has alot of old blocks no longer used, some dating back to their start up. I wish I still had that pic of a rack of some of these blocks. I can't recall who posted it here a few years ago.

By the way, has anyone else here heard of this rumor about Akubra ending up with some of HJs blocks? Ron had mentioned it to me in passing, but he was not the first one to tell me this. It seems as if it may have been one of my UK customers. My memory is failing. I recall thinking it was out in left field when I first heard it. But if my memory serves me correctly, it seems like Ron told me once that he had asked Akubra about supplying hats to HJ and their answer was no. But, he is intent on looking anyways, and it sure would not hurt to do so.


I am hoping that Ron in wanting to add another hat to his stable, a shorter one with a little bit less dome on the crown, and that is why he is looking at blocks. But, I dunno. He is probably just curious. Fedora
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Post by binkmeisterRick »

Man, you need to lighten up on the sun screen. :lol:
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Post by binkmeisterRick »

Uh, okay... Fedora, PM sent. 8-[ :lol:

Aeris, I'm amazed at what you get out of your hats. You have a knack for getting an excellent Raiders fedora out of almost every hat you own!
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Post by Pitfall Harry »

That Bushman AC has in that shot looks perfect. Why didn't Morgan just use that hat as the model for the new hat he's offering. All it needs is the darker color, a new ribbon and the bound edge removed.
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Post by binkmeisterRick »

Aeris, there's a HAT in that picture?! :shock: :wink:
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Post by Fedora »

Certainly the best Bushman I have seen. I owned a couple from Hatsdirect years ago, but those came with the eyelets on the sides of the crown. My Bushman never looked THAT good. Wish I still had that old pic I took of it and posted on COW. Maybe someone here saved it?

I find it amazing that whatever hat Tone buys, he makes it look good. I don't think I have seen a brand that he did not make look good. I think he even made a stock HJ look good if I recall correctly. I think you should join up with a hatter, and do his style jobs for him. You seem to have the gift to turn a sow's ear into a silk purse. :tup: The rear shot of that Bushman is the best to me. It has that "look" for sure.

I would love to see someone else crease and show us their Bushman. It would give me a better idea of what the hat looks like. Tone is just too good, and going by what he has shown us in the past, he seems to be only one of a few that could get various brands to look good. I have seen him take a tapered hat and make it look non tapered. Now that is a feat within itself. I am amazed because I can't do it. Fedora
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Post by Michaelson »

Steve, if you'll recall, those Bushman versions with the eyelets were called the 'featherweight' Bushman, and were a trial type that they discontinued. They were not the standard Bushman.

A photo of one is on our mainsite:

http://www.indygear.com/gear/akubra.shtml

It's the top photo.

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Post by Mac »

Fedora wrote:I wish I still had that pic of a rack of some of these blocks.
Is this the one?
Image

Full size here:
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c39/M ... ctory8.jpg

AC, the Bushman is amazing. All I can add is…WOW!

Sometimes I think that you have the actual Raiders block hidden away in your basement somewhere. :lol:

- Mac
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Post by Fedora »

Steve, if you'll recall, those Bushman versions with the eyelets were called the 'featherweight' Bushman, and were a trial type that they discontinued. They were not the standard Bushman.
Ah, thanks for tickling the dead brain cells. You are correct. Now, look at that Bushman you posted the link to. Is this the same hat as what Tone has on? They look NOTHING alike to me. And that pic looks like what my Bushman looked like in overall shape.....and that is also why I would love to see a Bushman styled by someone who has regular skills in hat styling. It gives you a better idea of what the hat generally looks like, without an artist being involved(and yes Tone, you are an artist IMHO)


Is this the one
Yes indeed. Thanks! I will hang onto this one.


The important thing that we must consider when talking of particular hats, or particular blockshape is this. There are numerous blockshapes that will lend good looking Raider fedoras. This should be no surprise as many blocks have much in common with one another I mean, you can only vary a block, an open crown block in a certain amount of ways. Here are a couple examples, just two of many out there in old hat shops.

Image


Image

Image


Image


To a non hatter, these two blocks above may look identical. To a trained eye, they are completely different. But, if you blocked a hat on the 52, and one on the 60, and creased them, they would look so similiar it would be very difficult to tell which is which. Both of these blocks yeild decent Raider fedoras. But neither one is the exact same block as the original Raiders fedora. Fedora
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Post by Michaelson »

Ah, thanks for tickling the dead brain cells. You are correct. Now, look at that Bushman you posted the link to. Is this the same hat as what Tone has on? They look NOTHING alike to me. And that pic looks like what my Bushman looked like in overall shape.....and that is also why I would love to see a Bushman styled by someone who has regular skills in hat styling.
Nope, it was a completely different hat, felt weight and color. That was what they referred to as 'fawn' at the time, if you'll recall.

I wish Joe Peters would hurry up and start rummaging around in the basement of his old building. He tells me he has TONS of original wood fedora hat blocks down there that go back to the opening of the PB hat store in 1917. He's seriously interested about pulling some of them out and re-creating some of the original 1920's-'30's felt hats his father and uncle made at that time. I've told him time and again that would be GREAT!!

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Post by Mac »

That 52 block looks very close to this one:

Image

Agent5 posted a similar shot of this hat a while back. It’s probably a bit misleading, as the hat is lightly creased on top in other scenes, but I’d bet that this was the same block as Ford’s hat.

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Post by Erri »

By the look of Aeris's and others' Bushmans, it indeed seems that they have the right block. I wonder why so little credit was given to it in the past. I mean, the picture of the Bushman on Indygear is not really what a correctly bashed bushman looks like. As Michaelson said "They were not the standard Bushman". I guess it's time to change that picture and perhaps opinion about this hat. Looks fantastic to me, from all the pictures I can find (a part of course the one on the main site)

Now if anyone would just convince Hatsdirect to offer the same felt of the Deluxe on the Bushman we would have the h*ll of an indy hat. Rabbit felt and not bad price either.
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Post by Pitfall Harry »

I don't think it's the felt that's the problem, is it? I think what Hatsdirect needs to do is use the same block that's used on the Bushman along with offering the Fed. Deluxe in a 5.5 crown height.

I wouldn't hold your breath on it though.......I don't see them changing the Fed. and Fed. Deluxe anytime soon. :?
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Post by Erri »

LOL this is the thread of the disappearing posts! :lol:

Aeris, I don't think anyone around here ever bought a nigeria brown Squatter, but by the name sounds very dark for an indy hat (again, there is no one to testify for it so that's an open topic about the colour). Unfortunately all the pictures of the squatter are of that very light colour (fawn i believe is the name of it), as far as I can recollect.

Aeris, I was wondering, what's the real difference between the Bushman and the Adventurer... block-wise? I'm not sure but if Morgan once said the indy hat was made on the same block of the squatter, there is a possibility that the adventurer was blocked on that too. Therefore, what's the real difference between the squatter block and the bushman block? Do the both of them work well for indy hats? Which one is the most accurate to an 80's HJ? In your opinion or anyone else owning both a modern bushman and an adventurer model.
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Kokopelli
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Post by Kokopelli »

I thought I was going crazy- posts were gone that I knew were there before!!! There was a post with pics of an Adventurer and a JPD, and they're gone now.
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Michaelson
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Post by Michaelson »

I imagine as long as this is continually ignored, it will probably continue to occur until folks get the point.

viewtopic.php?t=14735

At least the thread hasn't disappeared, as promised in the rule, so count your blessings........ :wink:

Regards! Michaelson
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Erri
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Post by Erri »

It's not just that Mike, other posts without even an image vanished. Don't know what's up with people writing in this thread :?: but it's still their choice to delete what they say if they want to.

Anyway, back on topic.
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Post by Michaelson »

True. I haven't noticed any of those disappearing myself, but I'm just in and out of here as I have time.

You sure they were posted in this thread, or could you be confusing a couple threads as being in the same one? I do that a LOT myself. :oops: :wink:

Regards! Michaelson
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Post by Erri »

Well no, LOL, I read stuff (last one from 3tho after Aeris' last post), also quite long ones and when I went back after few hours they had disappeared :shock:

As I said it's in their rights to do so, just I don't see why. But let's nevermind.
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Post by Michaelson »

Cool beans, as my daughters like to say! :tup:

Regards! Michaelson
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Post by Kokopelli »

Aeris_Canon wrote: I don't know if "crazy" is the right word. You happen to catch the name of the poster or just happened to read enough detail on the hats while "missing" the name? :lol:
Gee...the name slips me :lol: ...but they were good pictures!
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Post by whipwarrior »

and the obsession resulted in the founders of this hobby to take it upon themselves to source out the truth.
I once knew of an FBI agent who felt strongly about this. But his partner believed that there was a more practical explanation for everything. I wonder whatever happened to them? 8)
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Post by bigrex »

Erri wrote:
Unless she didn't get involved as much as she claims... that would explain immediately a convenient loss of memory that just allow her to say that she "designed" the hat.... for what that could mean
I also wonder if she was as directly involved or if she gives a little poetic license to dress up her memory. I remember on the bonus material of the Indy DVD collection she claims she personally aged Harrison Ford's jacket with his pocket knife and a wire brush. She claims to have picked wire out of her hands for some time afterward. Unless the wire brush was a fragile brass one I don't see how it would break off in your hands. A stiff steel one or another variety would definitely cut you but not end up staying in your hands. Anyway, I don't want to be so bold as to say there is dishonesty involved, I just question her recollection. I wonder in some facets of wardrobe production whether she was more of an overseer while she had a few guys who directly made the purchases, etc. She may have been the hands on person in some areas where she felt it was more vital?
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Post by Argonaut »

whipwarrior wrote:
and the obsession resulted in the founders of this hobby to take it upon themselves to source out the truth.
I once knew of an FBI agent who felt strongly about this. But his partner believed that there was a more practical explanation for everything. I wonder whatever happened to them? 8)
They're coming back this summer! July 25!!!!!!! \:D/
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Post by Erri »

Thank you Aeris for your information, as you know there isn't enough info about these things around, at least not yet. Hopefully Dutchman will notice this thread and come with more info about the squatter.
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