Not sure why it would be so hard to grasp that the two blocks could be different. The block (and other tools!) used to make a hat by a hand is almost certain to be different than a block that's used in a factory process.
It is easier to grasp this idea, if you knew how HJ sourced their hats, over time, and during this period of say, late 70's to today.
Personally, this is what I think, from little tidbits of info over the years, and from my and Marc's communication with HJ at various times, and last but not least, from just studying the various film hats over time.
Ok, I think that when the Raiders fedora was made for Deborah, they took a stock hat from the store shelf, and the reports state, it was a tall crown wide brim hat, the Australian model. She does not say Poet!! Swales, at a much later time, said that is what he used.
They put a narrower ribbon on it, and tweaked the hat to fit Harrison, or to look good on him. She never mentions the dimensional cut, but apparently, she must have requested it, because this is a rare brim in the world of hats. And some will remember anecdotal quotes from Swales that were posted on Indy Fan years ago, in regards to the whys of doing the unusual brim.
Now, I believe that the hat Swales used to create the first hat, is not the same hat he used to create the TOD fedora, and even TLC fedora. And there can be various reasons for this. First, and foremost, it could have been one of HJs hats that they no longer sold when the next film came out. Remember, the hat business was almost nonexistent at this time. There is no telling how long those hats had been there, as I doubt they would throw away hats, due to any shelf life involved. Since the manner of sweatband attachment, felt, and ribbon work is totally different from the TOD and TLC hats, we have to assume that Mr. Swales probably, with help, worked these hats up. Remember, we know from Deborah that they had the wider ribbon changed out.
Now, the lack of factory stitching at the sweatband attachment points separates this hat too, from what came after it. So, it is logical to think, that either something made Swales remove the sweats and then hand sew them back in, or the hats he used were not made by the same factory that made the TOD and TLC hats. If Swales had to remove the sweats, that means he was changing the crown in some manner. Which would lead me to think, he changed the blockshape, from its stock appearance. And if so, then this would account for the difference.
But, if a different factory, (let's say the HJ factory made this hat), then this could account for the difference of the blockshape too, along with the difference in the way the Raiders sweatband was attached. In either scenerio, the difference in blocks, sweatband attachment, and ribbonwork is explainable. And, I must add that my HJ from the 70's, had a handsewn in sweatband, with the sticthes well abve the brim break.
The Raiders fedora, may have been the last real HJ that was sold. which takes me to my next point.
I believe that the Raiders HJ was a REAL HJ. That is, an HJ that was indistinguishable from what HJ produced for a hundred years or so. The people here that are really interested in this, really need to buy every vintage HJ that comes up for sale on ebay. And then examine those hats. You will learn alot from this experience. You will learn that the way that HJ makes hats now, and even in the 80's and 90's is NOT the way they made hats in the 70's. This little bit of verifiable info, may influence your own ideas of these 3 film hats.
So, if the Raider HJ, was a REAL HJ, what were the hats that followed it? This is what I think. And while I cannot prove it, certain tidbits of info I have gleaned over the years, support it strongly. I think that between Raiders and TOD, HJ outsourced their hats. We do know for a fact that at least 2 different factories have made their hats since this board has been up and running.
So, they furnished the Raiders fedora, and then when TOD came, they had the oursourced hat on the shelves. Now, the original blocks used to make the old HJs, and they had several different blockshapes of course, may have been thrown out in the trash. They may have been sold, or they may have been burned as fire place wood.
In the place of the REAL HJ was a hat made by someone else, with different construction techniques, with one being the sweatband being sewn on just a hair above the brim break. This factory would not have had HJs old blocks, but would do what factories do, and get it as close as their block collection will allow. And I believed that this indeed is what happened, and it explains the differences some of us see between the Raiders fedora and the TOD, and even TLC fedora.
So, the Raiders fedora was not made by the same folks who made what came after Raiders. And therin lies the mystery or how one Poet can look so different from another Poet.
It can't be, the Raiders block is too strait sided to be the same as TOD or LC.
IS it really?
The Raiders hat wasn't as straight sided as most people think.
If you are hinting that all blocks were the same, please go see you eye doc for a checkup.
If you can't see the difference, you must be blind in one eye, and can't see out of the other one.
I am putting smilies here, because I am ribbin' you. I am well aware that some people just don't see what I see.
If you mean though that we caricature the straightness, I will agree to a point. The Raiders block was NOT an exact stovepipe with a dome on top. But, it wasn't tapered to the degree than most blocks are. At least most of the blocks that one sees today from modern hatters. These days, you see alot of what I call 'domey" blocks. Domey blocks make great telescope crowns, and Bogie crowns, and deep creased teardrop crowns. That is what domey blocks were designed for. The Raiders blockshape was really old, and open crown hats were worn alot when this block was made originally in the late 1800s. Most open crowned hats, were not domey. The Raiders fedora is not a domey block. It was fairly straight sided as viewed from the front and back, and had a medium dome, the dome that looks good on an open crowned hat. When you style this sort of hat, you end up with the Raiders look, as opposed to the American teardrop crowns of the 40's and 50's. Add some taper to the sides and you get the TOD and TLC fedora. Fedora