The current HJs

Fedora · Post by **Fedora** » Tue Nov 02, 2004 9:43 pm

Yep, that one is yours.

It was a learning experience, that is for sure. I love checking out what HJ has to offer. I have another one in, a Swales model that is on the block now. It has his signature dimensional cut and the "IJ" on the sweat. I wish I would have bought one from Swales just to own one. regards, Fedora

ob1al · Post by **ob1al** » Wed Nov 03, 2004 4:34 am

Fedora, did you do anything special to help the hat keep it's shape now it's been reblocked?

Fedora · Post by **Fedora** » Wed Nov 03, 2004 11:35 am

Fedora, did you do anything special to help the hat keep it's shape now it's been reblocked?

Yeah, I blocked up one size, and then down to the needed size. This always seems to help. BTW, while the older HJ felt did not look as good as the current felt, it was better felt. Fedora

ob1al · Post by **ob1al** » Wed Nov 03, 2004 3:11 pm

So the older HJ had 'denser' felt, have I got that right?

Is then the density the defining factor in distinguishing the quality of a felt and if so, how does a layman (like myself) spot such a thing?

By that, I mean is there something specific to look for when handling a hat to assess the quality of the felt, or can it only be properly examined during the blocking process?

Marc · Post by **Marc** » Thu Nov 04, 2004 12:43 am

So the older HJ had 'denser' felt, have I got that right?

Yes.

Is then the density the defining factor in distinguishing the quality of a felt and if so, how does a layman (like myself) spot such a thing?

Right again. You can compare a very dense felt to the hat you want to buy: a denser felt will be heavier - not heavy, just heavier - simply because it's denser and therefore contains more hairs. You can also force a needle through the felt and see how difficult it is to do so. Of course lots of stiffener makes it more difficult to force a needle through the felt as well, so take this into consideration.

Yeah, I blocked up one size, and then down to the needed size.

For those who don't have several block sizes: the same effect can be archived by shrinking an old body over the block and then stretching the hat you want to block over both the old body and the block. Let dry and block again, this time only on the block.

Regards,

Marc

ob1al · Post by **ob1al** » Thu Nov 04, 2004 3:39 am

Thanks Marc.

Fedoraman · Post by **Fedoraman** » Thu Nov 04, 2004 8:57 am

Fedora wrote:I will take a stab at it... The next thing is the fur content. As you move up the ladder with beaver content, the felt gets higher quality, culminating in an almost pure beaver hat. Nothing is better. The reason for this is beaver "felts" the best of any fur. It is finer, and denser than anything else. Next would be a good blend, using beaver and rabbit, or Nutria, and hare. My perfect blend would be beaver, nutria and hare. Blends are a good compromise for fineness and quality, if you can't afford beaver.

The last thing is the dye job. An excellent felt hat will have nominal bleeding if submerged into hot water. A lesser quality hat will turn the water the color of the hat.

So where do our Sterling GH hats fit in this analogy?

Marc · Post by **Marc** » Fri Nov 05, 2004 1:55 am

Basicly the sterling beaver is a pure beaver, with the difference that only the belly hairs were used to make the felt. These hairs are even finer than the normal beaver hairs and will therefore make a yet denser and softer felt. Since a beaver has less belly hair than normal hair, it'll cost you.

Is it worth it? - To some it is worth to pay quite an amount to get only the very finest felt possible, to others the finest felt could easily become an investment for lifetime - with a little care, they'll outlast you both. A pure beaver has been known as the best possible felt for the last centuries. I don't know if a felt made of baby seal would be even better and I'll probably never find out.

Regarding the bleeding of the felt; after I cut the brim of mine to the desired dimensions, I submerged the "cut offs" to boiling water and it barely bleed. I couldn't notice any difference in color when I compared it to the actual hat afterwards.

Regards,

Marc

Flattery · Post by **Flattery** » Fri Nov 05, 2004 8:07 am

I'm curious -- what's the purpose of submerging it in boiling water? Is that an alternative to sanding the edges?

Flattery · Post by **Flattery** » Fri Nov 05, 2004 8:39 am

Doh. *pours more coffee*

Fedoraman · Post by **Fedoraman** » Fri Nov 05, 2004 10:46 am

Marc wrote:Basicly the sterling beaver is a pure beaver, with the difference that only the belly hairs were used to make the felt. These hairs are even finer than the normal beaver hairs and will therefore make a yet denser and softer felt. Since a beaver has less belly hair than normal hair, it'll cost you.

Is it worth it? - To some it is worth to pay quite an amount to get only the very finest felt possible, to others the finest felt could easily become an investment for lifetime - with a little care, they'll outlast you both. A pure beaver has been known as the best possible felt for the last centuries. I don't know if a felt made of baby seal would be even better and I'll probably never find out.

Thanks, but I was really wanting to hear Fedora's take on our GH hats...as far as their durability and ease of reblock as he is THE MAN on the subject.

Fedora · Post by **Fedora** » Fri Nov 05, 2004 1:43 pm

Thanks, but I was really wanting to hear Fedora's take on our GH hats...as far as their durability and ease of reblock as he is THE MAN on the subject.

No problem in reblocking the belly beaver hats. Since this is the best modern felt made, it was made to be reblocked, and reblocked, and reblocked. Truly a hat to last a lifetime. Fedora