Club Obi Wan

[quote="Tundrarider"]Here's a comparison between the WG ring and the 1917. Looks close enough to me.

RZ, my mistake, it looked like the head of the S&W post swivels on the lower section.
The post itself in that picture looks quite a bit bigger then the WG's while the ring looks very close.

Yeah, that's part of the problem with the post. It has a VERY low profile, which is fine if you're working with steel, but lousy if you're working in resin.

RZ

RaiderZee wrote:

RZ

I'm glad to see Tundrarider's pics comparing the 1917 to the WG. I have a S&W prop gun without a lanyard ring so I bought this set. Now I'll have lanyard rings for both my guns.

Regards,

Indiana Jeff

I just got my gun in the post... luckly no customs and no police
Hope to be able to post pictures soon, looking forward to receive the ring.

Blimey now I need a LC holster!

Tundraraider,

Any chance you can add the picture of your Webley from the "Battered Compass" thread (27/02/09) to this one? I think that's the best shot I've seen to show natural wear as a guide for finishing.

LJ

Tundrarider, we need a nice tutorial for paiting and finishing these guns exactly like yours. Just amazing to look at.

OK, I attached one of the screw swivels to a painted WG kit:




I think this turned out nicely. The post is a bit bulkier than the real one, and the ring is a tad wider, but I think it fits the bill. And they're inexpensive.

This is the screw post, so it doesn't rotate. To install it, drill a 5/32" hole about 1.25" deep. Twist the screw in by hand until it gets too tough, then put the ring in a vise and rotate the gun until the bottom of the post is flush with the grip. At no time did I feel that the resin was even close to breaking; just handle the gun as near the grip as possible when turning it on the vise. The whole thing took five minutes.

I'll do a tutorial on the bolt-&-nut rotating swivel later this week.


RZ

RZ,

Thanks for posting and I look especially forward to the other tutorial. I think the swivel looks great and will be much more durable in the long run.

Regards,

Indiana Jeff

Thanx Tundraraider. I love both those shots.

LJ

RZ, any word on the second tutorial?

Regards,

Indiana Jeff

Well, I attempted the rotating swivel:

1. Got a 1/4" plastic spacer/bushing. Widened the inner hole so it was just big enough to let the post bolt rotate. No problem.

2. Drilled a 1/4" hole in the grip frame.

2. Tightened the nut right up to the end of the spacer. Epoxied it so it wouldn't move (I THOUGHT).

3. Inserted the post/bushing. Tapped it down with a rubber mallet. Very snug, so no need to epoxy the spacer. So we're good, right?

4. PROBLEM: as the post rotated, it began unscrewing the nut, which the epoxy did not hold secure. The post will totally unscrew as it rotates.

So the concept works, but you must secure the nut. A little bit of solder would do the job perfectly, but my soldering iron is busted, so that'll have to wait.

The other issue is the depth to which to tap down the post/bushing. It has to be at EXACTLY the right height. To little and you see the white spacer; to much and the post goes below the level of the gun frame, looking, well, fake. Perhaps a black washer between the spacer and post would help.

In conclusion, the rotating post will work, but still needs some tweeking. So far, the stationary post looks better, and has an almost foolproof installation. Unless you are desperate to have a rotating post, save yourself the trouble and use the stationary one. IMHO . . .

RZ

Hey guys,

I've been working on a finished kit. I made some resin casts of a vintage .455 cartridge so I could put them on the kit. You can see them in this shot:



If you are interested, I can send you some of these half cartridge backs for your kit, already painted. All you have to do is trim them to fit in your kit, then glue/epoxy them in. You only need 4, but I'll send you 6 in case you mess up or lose one. But it's really simple to put them in. Cost is $7.00, shipped anywhere. I'll PM all those who ordered from me; others interested can PM me.

RZ

RaiderZee,

Can you provide a photo of what the finished resin cartridge looks like prior to trimming and installation? I am curous to see how much cutting and trimming is necesaary to ge the cartridge backs to fit onto the cylinder.

This is a great detail add-on for these WG's.

Indiana Jake

Jake, I don't have any extras right now; I'm going to make them Saturday. The rims are just a thin, flat semi-circle. I made a mold of the rim of a Remington .455 cartridge, made resin casts of the back rim, sanded them down to correct height, cut the rim into semi-circles, and painted them yellow brass.

Installation is just trial-and-error: stick the half-rim into the cylinder, then trim the inner flat face of the half-rim with an Exacto knife until it fits properly (the rim usually ends up as a crescent),t hen glue it in. It really is very simple; I installed the rims in my cast in 10 minutes, without messing up any rims.

BTW, here's a beauty shot of the finished WG; going on eBay tonight:



RZ

Thanks a bunch, TR. Finishing this kit out has been a labor of love, but also a grind. Not sure how many more of these I will do.

RZ

That looks so awesome Zack! I hadn't fully realized the potential of these casts! You have definitely taken this to the 'model' level and made it look perfect.

Great job!

Great info on here everybody, Thanks!
I have a question to throw out while I sand on my Kit. What is the prefered way of attaching the grips? Are they getting glued on, or screwed on with wood screws or actual pistol grip screws?
Just curious.

Thanks.