Cracking the mystery of the MBA Shirt Colour formula.

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indygr
Laboratory Technician
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Joined: Thu Mar 20, 2008 5:22 am

Cracking the mystery of the MBA Shirt Colour formula.

Post by indygr »

For all DYIers, I just wanted to share my experience during my last dyeing process trying to replicate the MBA shirt colour using Azuma's Raiders shirts. This process should work with any shirt as long as the original colour of the shirt is removed. Some garments may be dyed with super durable pigments (usually strong blues and indigos) and thus, this method may not work on them.

First, let's see the end results and then I will describe what is needed, the process to be followed and useful tips. I will not explain in detail how to dye but the main procedure.

Warning: The original MBA Shirt (as well any shirt dyed following the below formula) has a very noticeable pinkish tone which some members of the Indy community consider that it does not fit to what is seen on screen. The instructions below serve only as a guide to dye the shirt to the MBA "specs" and it is not considered as a statement that the MBA Shirt is "the" correct colour!!

MBAvs.Azuma Final Day
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MBAvs.Azuma Final Day
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MBAvs.Azuma Final Night with Flash 1
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MBAvs.Azuma Final Night with Flash 2
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MBAvs.Azuma Final Night with Flash 3
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I believe that the photos speak for themselves. The colour of Azuma's shirt after the dyeing process is almost, if not, identical to the MBA Shirt.

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1. What you will need

- 1 pck of RIT Colour Remover
- 1 tin of DYLON Multi-Purpose Dye Reindeer Beige N. 22.
- De-ionized water (commonly found in super-markets and other general supplies stores)
- Table salt
- Measuring spoon set

The Bad News: Dylon has discontinued the production of the Multi-Purpose Dye tins since a decade now. You could find some on ebay from some UK sellers who have kept some stock.

The Good News: Due to the extensive use of these dyes by... the filming industry (go figure), a UK company called Professional Fabric Dyes Ltd. continues to offer all Multi-Purpose Dye range (ex Dylon) under the DYPRO Multi-Purpose Dye range and these dyes are available in sachets of 10g and tins of 500g for larger quantities. The pigments are the same, the packaging different.
https://www.patin-a.de/en/dypro-dylon-m ... e-dye-10g/

Excellent!!!... let's continue. :whip:

2. Process to be followed

a. The original colour of the shirt has to be removed. Use the RIT Colour remover. Follow carefully the "stovetop method" instructions written on the package!! The garment should turn out a neutral light ecru/cream colour after final washing. If it has not, then the garment is dyed with super durable dyes and may not be suitable for redyeing. You could retry the process with the colour remover and see if the original dye will react. If again, it will not be removed, abort the process on this shirt.

b. Upon the original colour removal, we can proceed with the dyeing process. Follow the instructions written on the MPD tin or sachet. Stovetop method only, avoid using the washing machine for this low quantity of garment.

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Now, the "magic" formula is....... 1/2 tsp of MPD Reindeer Beige for approx. 250g of fabric. Shirt sizes can vary from 240-260g depending on the size and material type. e.g Mine is a 16.5 with a weight of 260g and the 1/2 tsp formula worked fine. You could try a formula of slightly less than 1/2 tsp if you feel so. The end result I believe will not be so noticeable.

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Comparison photos of Azuma's shirt before and after dyeing.

Azuma undyed
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Azuma Colour Removed
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Azuma Dyed Leftvs.Azuma right
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3. Useful tips

a. Always follow the instructions written on the packages as close as possible. Always dissolve the package contents well in the water and stir well before beginning.

b. Use de-ionized water only when dyeing. In some places, the tap water is very hard and may contain chlorine which will eventually lead to uneven dyeing and blotches. In my case, I used tap water first and the results were disastrous. I then redid the process using de-ionized water and the dyeing results were perfect. Tap water for dye removal is fine.

c. Use as much salt as required according to the dye quantity, not less. Slightly more is fine but don't overdo it. For example, the standard salt quantity for 4.5-5g (1 tsp) dye is 30g. In our case, we use 1/2 tsp which is abt. half the quantity of 4.5g, therefore 15-20g of salt is fine.

d. When measuring teaspoons using the measuring set, keep the powder pigment level with the measuring spoon approx. 1-2mm beneath the edges.

e. When dipping the garment in the dye bath, do not dip it squeezed. After soaking in water before dyeing, squeeze it first with both hands to remove excess water and then restretch it by hand to remove as much creases as possible. After ensuring that the garment does not have "kinks", then you can safely dip it into the bath.

f. If you have measured the dye quantity, WASH YOUR HANDS thoroughly before touching any garment (wet or dry) because the pigment is made of dust particles which may stick to the garment after contact with water or steam.

g. Dip the garment in the dye bath steadily and as soon as the shirt is submerged completely, stir it slowly and continuously for 20 min. Keep all the parts of the garment submerged in the bath always. Do not let the water boil over and keep the garment away from the pan's bottom and other parts where it is very hot as it may cause discoloration on these parts. A larger vessel helps in this regard.

h. Normal dyeing time as stated in the tin/sachet is 20 min. I would not keep it for longer as the colour may become more intense than intended.

i. As soon as the dyeing process is over, DO NOT wash the garment with detergent. Just rinse it with tap water and then throw it in the washing machine in a spin cycle only at 800 revs. Let the shirt to dry in the SHADE and the dye to rest. DO NOT use in any circumstances, and until the dyeing process is over, softener in the washing machine. Softener may interfere with the dyeing process and not let the dye settle correctly on the garment.

j. The above formula works only for 100% cotton garments and for a garment weight of 240-260g. Nylon, silk and others, absorb the dye differently and will not achieve the same results. Polyester does not absorb the dye at all!!

k. If you are dyeing a white shirt, although white is neutral, I would strongly recommend to dip it first in a colour remover bath (stovetop method) in order to remove any invisible stains and prepare the garment for dyeing.

l. MPDs are not colourfast and the garments must be washed separately. If you prefer to "fix" the dye, you could use a dye fixative offered either by RIT or any other dye manufacturer. Although, I would personally not recommend it because in case you need to need to re-vitalize the shirt in the future by re-dyeing again, it may be difficult to remove the existing dye with the colour remover.

m. If for any reason the dye process fails, DO NOT PANIC :) You can re-dye the garment by removing the dye using the colour remover and then re-do the whole process.

Let's see the end results again on my second Azuma Raiders shirt:

2 Azumas vs MBA
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2 Azumas vs MBA 2
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Hope the above will help DIYers and others who wish to replicate the MBA shirt colour to achieve good results.

Brgds
Indygr
Last edited by indygr on Wed Jul 05, 2023 12:39 am, edited 1 time in total.
azuma
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2003 1:54 am

Re: Cracking the mystery of the MBA Shirt Colour formula.

Post by azuma »

Looks awesome!!

Azuma
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