Tried on Aldens

[Bounty Hunter]

Haven't posted in here in ages, the only gear I wear these days is my Wested raiders jacket on motorcycle (rarely). Retired the fedora in favor of Tilley T3 which I wear all the time in summer. Spring cleaning got me into replacing old worn out footwear and after a while got to thinking of Alden 405s. I really got into collecting indy gear right after high school, so originally scoffed at paying over $380 for Aldens back then and just figured that would never happen especially if I couldn't try them on first, plus they were pumpkin orange at that point.

After doing a bunch of research, the 403 option got me excited again and saw there was one store about 1hr away that actually had them in stock in my size. Normally I take an 11 wide (but measure a D on brannock), tried the 10D and 10.5D in store, 10 felt good, a little snug in width, but the problem was when lacing up, starting at the speed hooks left no gap, especially on left boot so couldn't tie them tight. Salesman recommended not getting them. Was really looking forward to buying them and wanted it to work but apparently not meant to be. Just curious anyone else have this issue? I read that the lace gap can decrease with age as the chromexcel stetches, but anyone have no gap right off the bat like this?

Might look into wolverine 1000 mile or maybe red wings. Since the aldens won't work, now I have the hankering to find a quality goodyear welted boot with the indy look.

[Michaelson]

Welcome home!

Just curious more than anything…..if you measure size 11D, why did you try a smaller size boot? They’re true to size. I’ve never had an issue with this in all the years I’ve been in this, and always get my actual size, and I wear an 11B.

Sorry it didn’t work for you, but that info puzzled me .

Regards! Michaelson

[IndianaJustin]

I totally understand your dilemma. May I ask are you looking for another boot that might look somewhat like Alden's, or a tough, nice looking boot that Indy might wear today?

[Bounty Hunter]

They didn't have 11 in stock, but everything I've read straight from Alden to even the sales guy (said he was the "Alden guru") said the Alden truebalance last runs large and they recommend to size down 1/2". I was even going to try a 9.5 out of curiosity, but didn't have that in stock either.

I'd like to get something in the same image, that turn of the century welted work boot look, which is why I think the wolverine 1000 mile might fit the bill. Not sure where one would go to even try those on though.

[Bounty Hunter]

I will say I wasn't too impressed with the quality control on two pairs of 403s I tried on. The 10.5 had a 1" section of white thread in the welt that was gnarly, pulled and frayed. The 10 was over-stitched about 1/2" past the welt on one side. I saw another user's post about recent QC issues on alden boots, surprising to see on a boot currently priced $607 (the shop I went to had the older price of $579).

[Illinois_Jones]

Yeah, with Alden's QC problems of late it could be tricky finding a pair that works, no matter what the Brannock or salesman says. No idea what's going on over there, but something's up with them.

But if you really want a heritage style work boot in the Indy style, check out the Grant Stone Brass Boot. Excellent quality and durability at a good price. There's also the Nick's moc toe, but that's a very serious boot that takes some real breaking in. Wolverines and Red Wings are always an option, but they are ubiquitous.

[Michaelson]

They didn't have 11 in stock, but everything I've read straight from Alden to even the sales guy (said he was the "Alden guru") said the Alden truebalance last runs large and they recommend to size down 1/2". I was even going to try a 9.5 out of curiosity, but didn't have that in stock either.

Well, it’s a shame you didn’t get to at least try your actual size, as I’ve dealt directly with sales folks at the Alden’s factory for years and they NEVER advised to EVER use ANYTHING other than actual foot measurements when buying 405’s or any of their Trubalance platform, as it’s made specifically for orthopedic issues. It makes no sense to play around with sizing when orthopedic doctors were coming to them to prescribe their shoes for foot correction.

Ironically my very first pair of 405’s I ever purchased were prescribed by a foot/sport specialist to correct a problem I was having at the time. Needless to say they didn’t have to twist my arm to purchase…..

Anyway, once again, good to see you on the quest again and best of luck on your search for the perfect boot for your feet!

Regards! Michaelson

[Tibor]

Agree with Michaelson… while your foot will fit in a half size smaller, the arch support and ortho advantages of the shoe are likely lost. I have an old used pair of 11s that I picked up because they looked the business, but can only wear them for a bit before my feet hurt, but my 11.5c carefully measured, fit correctly and feel entirely different (and good).

I had myself measured up and they ordered them for me at the time. Came a month or two later, cloth lining and all.

Hah…. Writing the same time!

[Chose Poorly]

The two QC issues you mentioned, unappealing/sloppy welt stitching and welt stitching going past the mark where the 270 welt blends into the heel, aren’t really seen as issues by Alden. To be honest, I don’t think they ever were considered QC issues as I’ve seen what you’re describing on boots as old as 20th a plus. That said, it was seen far less regularly then, whereas today it would be hard to find a pair without stitching that looks that way.

The QC issues I was describing on the other chain were unforgivably bad. I’m talking marred leather, broken structural sitiching, cracked or chipped welts, crooked or mismatched moc toe stitching, completely misaligned lace hardware, massive gaps between heel and heel cup etc.

Regarding the lace gap, I would highly recommend (when possible) trying on more than one pair in the same size, as that is another massive inconsistency. I have owned pairs with barely any lace gap (after break-in) and pairs with a 1-1.5” gap. The same goes for overall fit. I’ve had pairs in the same size, width, and leather fit completely differently. And for the record, my professionally measured Alden Trubalance size is 10.5C, but based entirely on what I mentioned above I wear a pair of 10.5D 40557H I recently picked up in more than my 10.5C 403s because somehow the D fits bette than the C despite every other D I’ve tried being too wide. And to be clear I wear Indys every day, and find them more comfortable than any other footwear I own.

It’s truly a crapshoot. But I recommend figuring out your perfect size, then ordering a few pair in that size and comparing the fit and finish on each. Also, you have a pretty common size, so whether 9.5, 10, or 10.5D is right you’ll find some second hand pairs for much less than $579 or $607. Join the Alden Enthusiasts Facebook group if you can. Best second hand inventory I’ve seen thus far. Happy hunting.

[Illinois_Jones]

The two QC issues you mentioned, unappealing/sloppy welt stitching and welt stitching going past the mark where the 270 welt blends into the heel, aren’t really seen as issues by Alden. To be honest, I don’t think they ever were considered QC issues as I’ve seen what you’re describing on boots as old as 20th a plus. That said, it was seen far less regularly then, whereas today it would be hard to find a pair without stitching that looks that way.

The QC issues I was describing on the other chain were unforgivably bad. I’m talking marred leather, broken structural sitiching, cracked or chipped welts, crooked or mismatched moc toe stitching, completely misaligned lace hardware, massive gaps between heel and heel cup etc.

Regarding the lace gap, I would highly recommend (when possible) trying on more than one pair in the same size, as that is another massive inconsistency. I have owned pairs with barely any lace gap (after break-in) and pairs with a 1-1.5” gap. The same goes for overall fit. I’ve had pairs in the same size, width, and leather fit completely differently. And for the record, my professionally measured Alden Trubalance size is 10.5C, but based entirely on what I mentioned above I wear a pair of 10.5D 40557H I recently picked up in more than my 10.5C 403s because somehow the D fits bette than the C despite every other D I’ve tried being too wide. And to be clear I wear Indys every day, and find them more comfortable than any other footwear I own.

It’s truly a crapshoot. But I recommend figuring out your perfect size, then ordering a few pair in that size and comparing the fit and finish on each. Also, you have a pretty common size, so whether 9.5, 10, or 10.5D is right you’ll find some second hand pairs for much less than $579 or $607. Join the Alden Enthusiasts Facebook group if you can. Best second hand inventory I’ve seen thus far. Happy hunting.

I agree. I've been wearing Aldens for over 30 years and it has become more of a crapshoot over the past 10 or so years. The manufacturing snafus are moving beyond aesthetics into structure and durability. I've mentioned it here before, but the last pair of Indys I got were the kudus and it took me going through every 10D they had in stock and swapping L and R between two pairs to get a pair that fit properly. The people at the Dashing store in Chicago were very annoyed, but what were they going to do? Welts were bad enough, but outsoles and heels were attached wonky (a cardinal sin when dealing with the TB last) and it seemed some had heels missing nails and one I know had a nail not fully cinched over and it was poking the footbed. I had a very difficult time getting a good pair of snuff suedes before that.

But yeah, that would be my advice; either order several pairs if you can and find the ones that work or go to the store and bug the heck out of them and don't be afraid to mix shoes from separate pairs to get a good fit. Handmade shoes are certainly subject to variation but, leather changes aside, I should be able to get a pair of the same model in the same size and have it fit.

I mean, I'm not that tuned in to Alden like some others here, but is it possible they changed the last material and/or make and that's adding some inconsistency to the lasting process?

[Bounty Hunter]

Thanks for all the advice everyone, maybe I won't give up quite yet and try a few more on when able. Thanks again!

[Raider Of The Lost Ark]

Welcome home!

Just curious more than anything…..if you measure size 11D, why did you try a smaller size boot? They’re true to size. I’ve never had an issue with this in all the years I’ve been in this, and always get my actual size, and I wear an 11B.

Sorry it didn’t work for you, but that info puzzled me .

Regards! Michaelson

I too had heard of sizing down, not just Aldens. However it confuses the heck out of me. I mean what’s the point of knowing your size if some makers then say “If your an 11 you will need a 10 / 10.5”? If I want a 34 inch waist I would never expect to have to buy a 32, or 30. Sizing is supposed to be a constant across all makers of that item. Or so I thought.

As I have no way of tying on the boots I asked Alden directly. They suggested I would need a smaller size than I was, but ‘couldn’t’, or more likely wouldn’t, help me with what to get. If I really want them I may need to import them directly. I will incur large taxes to do this. So without even knowing I’m getting a pair that will fit that won’t happen.

I can’t work out what’s happening with those boots tried. If the top is fully ‘closed’, on a smaller size, then surely the problem will be far worse on the larger ones. I can only assume there is an issue with them, with the leather in that area cut too large.

[Michaelson]

When sizing up or down, you’re also experiencing the repositioning of the arch location, which can throw the whole pattern off. That could be why many are seeing a closure problem at the top.

Everyone’s foot and ankle shape is different so what you’re experiencing is nothing like what I’ve experienced. Nothing right or wrong about it, but there’s a method to the madness when it comes to orthopedic foot wear, and any changes from those ‘norms’ can and do affect other areas of the boot, as the tolerances are extremely close.

Any time I’ve seen past discussions recommending sizing up or down, I’ve spoken up against it, but after so many years of falling on deaf ears I’ve just given up. It’s not a hill I choose to die on anymore.

I can’t speak to QC issues others have experienced, but patterns haven’t changed as they have to meet medical protocols for use in foot correction by the medical industry. When you fiddle with sizing , you circumvent those protocols, and issues can and do arise.

When you come across an Alden representative recommending sizing up or down, keep in mind they’re just trying to make a sale. If it’s not being sold to correct a foot issue, they’re just trying to move inventory to a potential buyer.

It’s just part of the ‘game’. Good luck again!

Regards! M

[Bounty Hunter]

For an update, there's 4 sellers listed in MN on Alden's website, all in the twin cities metro area (about 1 to 1.5 hr from me). After the first experience (and snooty salesman that put me off) and your guy's encouragement, I called up the other stores listed. One only sold their own makeup indys, one didn't have my sizes in stock, but the last one did. The salesman was very nice, measured me, found that the 10D was the best fit and they even priced matched a lower price from the first store. A+ service. Wore them home and have been enjoying them since. Very comfortable and basically no breakin required. Recently bought shoe trees for them on amazon.

The lace gap is less than the first pair I tried which is great. They also had 405s in stock and they were still very pumpkin orange colored! They also had a suede indy boot that had thin very comfortable leather uppers. My wife liked them more... might have to think about those for the future.

Thanks again for the help everyone

[Chose Poorly]

For an update, there's 4 sellers listed in MN on Alden's website, all in the twin cities metro area (about 1 to 1.5 hr from me). After the first experience (and snooty salesman that put me off) and your guy's encouragement, I called up the other stores listed. One only sold their own makeup indys, one didn't have my sizes in stock, but the last one did. The salesman was very nice, measured me, found that the 10D was the best fit and they even priced matched a lower price from the first store. A+ service. Wore them home and have been enjoying them since. Very comfortable and basically no breakin required. Recently bought shoe trees for them on amazon.

The lace gap is less than the first pair I tried which is great. They also had 405s in stock and they were still very pumpkin orange colored! They also had a suede indy boot that had thin very comfortable leather uppers. My wife liked them more... might have to think about those for the future.

Thanks again for the help everyone

Awesome to hear, congrats! It’s a lot of trial and error these days. It’s great that you got sized professionally to be sure, but like I mentioned, there is a lot of variety from pair to pair even in the exact same size and width. Depends on materials, tiny variances during the manufacturing process etc. So you lucked out!