2021 hat options list

In-depth discussion of the Fedora of Indiana Jones and all other hats appearing in the Indiana Jones movies

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drftfan
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2021 hat options list

Post by drftfan »

Being a bit of a newbie (well gone for 10 years) I have been on the search for a hat. So far this is what I have found for CURRENT options. Anyone I missed?
Accurate:
Herbert Johnson
Advintage
Penman/
Hufvud
Steele & Jones
Andrea Tognarelli
Screencapped
Baron Hats
Northwest hats

Close enough:
Akubra Fed IV
Millers Hats
Christys of London Adventurer
Last edited by drftfan on Tue Jan 19, 2021 2:24 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by Thee »

drftfan wrote:Being a bit of a newbie (well gone for 10 years) I have been on the search for a hat. So far this is what I have found for CURRENT options. Anyone I missed?
Accurate:
Herbert Johnson
Advintage
Penman/
Hufvud
Steele & Jones
Andrea Tognarelli

Close enough:
Akubra Fed IV
Millers Hats
Christys of London Adventurer
Do you want to have a hat made to a particular scene or just a general one? I think a lot of people will say penman but I don't think their hats look too good and they are quite expensive. I would go with S&J if I were in your position.
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by indy89 »

Mikael at Hufvud makes incredible hats! I say you can't go wrong with ordering from Hufvud.

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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by IJJTM »

I’ve heard good things about screencapped. Also, like Thee said, any particular look you going for? You should be happy with any of the vendors listed, but some are better than others when it comes to certain scenes. Like if you wanted a SOC hat that looks the part then you should probably go with Advintage or Steele and Jones.
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by jlee562 »

Northwest Hats does a Raiders model. Baron still makes the Cliffhanger. The Stetson Fortune and Glory is rare, but pops up sometimes.
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by tubasthebest »

Thee wrote:Do you want to have a hat made to a particular scene or just a general one? I think a lot of people will say penman but I don't think their hats look too good and they are quite expensive. I would go with S&J if I were in your position.
I'm curious on what aspects of a Penman don't look good to you. I have my first hat on order, and am aware I jumped to the most expensive option first. But if there is a better option for less, I would be interested. In what ways would S&J be a better option?
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by IJJTM »

Tuba, I'm in the same boat as you where I'm waiting on a hat from John. I don't know for sure what Thee doesn't like about Penman, but I've heard some say that John's hats look more like caricatures rather than the real deal. Steele and Jones are really good at making scene specific hare felt hats that are scaled to best fit your head shape. No detail goes over their heads when it comes to accuracy. Like on their Smithsonian LC they even put a loose thread under the ribbon that is barely noticeable.
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by Forrest For the Trees »

I think any custom hatter will listen to what their customers want, and can modify sizes to what you think would be most flattering for your head size and type. I think all of the options listed here can look like a caricature if they are not sized properly. I have seen examples from nearly every vendor that look too tall or have brims that seem too wide for the specific customer. Certainly, with factory-made options like Akubra, Everyman, and the Harrison, you can't customize this, but for a hand-made custom hat, the key is to communicate exactly what you want. I have no doubt that John Penman can scale down the crown height and brim width on any of his hats if that is what you ask for.
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by drftfan »

Updated the list.
I already have an HJ on order. I am looking for a cheaper option as well to beat up a bit that isnt the Akubra. Just not a fan of how dark it is out of the box. Advintage is out of my size in the Harrison or that would be my go to. Was going to get a Christys but have heard mixed reviews.
There is a Stetson Fortune and Glory on ebay but it is too big plus beaver which means probably zero shrinkage unfortuntely. Not putting that on the list since they arent readily available.
Jlee I know you had a Christys. Care to share pics?
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by andrea1984 »

Glad to be listed among so great hatters
Here some recently made Cairo and raiders hats!
I think you never go wrong with every hatter listed above
!
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by IndianaJustin »

Is Fedoraiders a vendor still?
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by jlee562 »

I sold my Christy's a while back but I do have some pics. I'm not 100% sure if they are still using this block for that hat, because I know Matt Deckard also worked for Christy's for a spell inbetween now and then.

Image
Image
Image

Re: Penmans, I am of the opinion that some of his hats look like a caricature of the Raiders hat. The proportions lines just seem exaggerated to me. The best way I can explain it is like, if someone made a really accurate pencil drawing of the hat, and then someone went over it with a Sharpie, that'd be a Penman. Some don't look so exaggerated. I understand he has different blocks for Beaver and Rabbit felts.
Last edited by jlee562 on Tue Jan 19, 2021 5:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by IJJTM »

FedoraRaiders is still making hats to my knowledge, but you need to get to him at the right time.
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by Thee »

FWI I have never bought felt hat from anybody before but have made my own. I wouldn't count making your own out if you have some free time as it will be less expensive than buying a hat from any of the vendors above.
IJJTM wrote:Tuba, I'm in the same boat as you where I'm waiting on a hat from John. I don't know for sure what Thee doesn't like about Penman, but I've heard some say that John's hats look more like caricatures rather than the real deal. Steele and Jones are really good at making scene specific hare felt hats that are scaled to best fit your head shape. No detail goes over their heads when it comes to accuracy. Like on their Smithsonian LC they even put a loose thread under the ribbon that is barely noticeable.
You pretty much said it, looks like a caricature. Most of the details of the hat are pretty off and it results in it looking awkward on most people. Also their prices are ridiculous compared to S&J who gets most of these details right including the big one which is proportions.
IndianaJustin wrote:Is Fedoraiders a vendor still?
I don't think he was ever a 'vendor' but did occasionally sell some of the hats he made. The best raiders hat replicas I have ever seen.
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by drftfan »

Thanks Jlee. That really looks pretty good. Whatever I get I plan to cut the brim down. Being 5’7 with a 55/56 hat size the brim can look a little big on these. Well except my HJ. Leaving that one alone.
I didn’t include Fedoraraider cause I wasn’t sure he actually made hats or simple rebashed them.
Thee I have actually considered it. I also considered just picking up something unbashed, swap the ribbon and trim the brim to suit what I want.
Andrea your hats are very impressive, you should be included.
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by Chewbacca Jones »

IJJTM wrote:I don't know for sure what Thee doesn't like about Penman, but I've heard some say that John's hats look more like caricatures rather than the real deal.
I own 2 Indy hats from John, and they do NOT look caricature-like at all. Although, I have noticed that many of the offerings these days are made to look a bit lived-in from the start, where a Penman will take some actually living in to get there. John's research was meticulous, and he does the proportion adjustment thing, unless told otherwise. His work is on par with Delk's in his prime, who was a bit of a mentor to John. Yes, his price is higher than some (but not unusually so) and the wait is long, but he's just one guy doing it all.

Of course, every hatter has their nuances that influence their product. Each craftsman puts emphasis on different elements and so on. So, whatever it is that some people dislike about the Penman hats are likely just a matter of personal taste.

Keep in mind, I can't speak about the other "accurate" offerings. I have never even been in the same room with those, but I've read some great things.
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by tubasthebest »

Lots of good info in the replies here. I will say for now I am sticking with John. From what I have seen John really did his research and makes the best hats possible. I think the hats that look like caricatures are just due to the fact that the striking Raiders look doesn't work for everyone. I think the TOD, LC, and CS options I have seen look incredible on pretty much everyone.

I am going from my old DP straight to John's most expensive option, the Portuguese beaver felt (in a Last Crusade style). I may be naïve, but my goal is to try and buy the absolute best hat I can now, so I don't end up owning 15 different mid range hats. If I wanted to start with good enough, I would have gone with the Fed IV, or AdVintage Harrison. If I wanted great I would have gone with S&J. But wanting best, all signs pointed to Penman Hats.

...even though I only want one good hat, the Herbert Johnson 40th anniversary model that was teased to come out this year has me considering a second hat. This forum is all ready getting to me! ](*,)
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by IJJTM »

Chewbacca, thank you for sharing your outlook on John’s work would you mind saying what 2 Indy hats you got from him?

Tuba, when is your hat expected to arrive if you don't mind me asking?
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by Thee »

tubasthebest wrote:Lots of good info in the replies here. I will say for now I am sticking with John. From what I have seen John really did his research and makes the best hats possible. I think the hats that look like caricatures are just due to the fact that the striking Raiders look doesn't work for everyone. I think the TOD, LC, and CS options I have seen look incredible on pretty much everyone.

I am going from my old DP straight to John's most expensive option, the Portuguese beaver felt (in a Last Crusade style). I may be naïve, but my goal is to try and buy the absolute best hat I can now, so I don't end up owning 15 different mid range hats. If I wanted to start with good enough, I would have gone with the Fed IV, or AdVintage Harrison. If I wanted great I would have gone with S&J. But wanting best, all signs pointed to Penman Hats.

...even though I only want one good hat, the Herbert Johnson 40th anniversary model that was teased to come out this year has me considering a second hat. This forum is all ready getting to me! ](*,)
What were the signs that pointed at penman being the best?
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by IJJTM »

jlee562 I know that you’re a big advocate of the Portuguese felts. What makes them particularly better than other felts?
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Re: 2021 hat options list

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tubasthebest wrote:I think the hats that look like caricatures are just due to the fact that the striking Raiders look doesn't work for everyone.
Just speaking for me, I'm not referring to pictures of individuals in their hats. Maybe some visuals will help with my point.

Here's a prime example of a Penman that strikes me as having the caricatured look, from his fb.
Image
Image
Image

Too much brim, too much "mushroom" look, exaggerated "humps" in the front profile. Even the turn looks a bit much, look where the bow falls over the corner of Ford's eye on the screencaps, whereas the bow on the Penman falls halfway between the pinch and the side of the hat. I just don't think that looks like what's on screen.

Photo credit to Prop Store for the screen used hat, compared to my HJ:
Image
Image
IJJTM wrote:jlee562 I know that you’re a big advocate of the Portuguese felts. What makes them particularly better than other felts?
There's kind of a general consensus forming among serious hat folks and hat makers that the FEPSA/Portuguese beaver felts are the superior product. On the making end, the Winchester beaver bodies are known to have a shellac core to them, which makes them a bit harder to work with. This isn't necessarily an issue for the consumer, unless a less-than-upstanding hat maker sends out a body that has a mottled finish (uneven dye penetration, and/or uneven felting of the fibers themselves). Penman would definitely do no such thing, so no worries there. I also feel as if the FEPSA bodies are more uniformly dense. For example, I have a lightweight beaver felt from Art Fawcett, and there is just a tiny hint of ripple lines in the brim that have shown up after use. Now that my Optimo has a few years on it, I feel even more comfortable saying that The FEPSA felts are as close to vintage quality as we can get today. It's really not supposed to take a lot of steam to shape a hat or set a crease. The best vintage hats you could mold like clay. My HJ is already quite well conformed to my head and retains my headshape well. That's a pretty solid indicator of felt quality.

The FEPSA felts also show up buttery soft, makes an Akubra seem like cardboard covered in sand paper. Also, a lot of what they sell is pre-pounced, so much less work for the hatter. Even novices like me can make a finished hat with relative ease. HJ is either using a heavier weight body, and/or they added some stiffener, because the beaver bodies I have will 'crush' into any shape. They do offer more options for hat makers, so two makers might not be using the exact same felt even if they are from the same source.

I should stress that a Winchester beaver hat is still a very fine hat! I had one as my go-to custom for a long time. But my new go-to is a FEPSA beaver build.
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by Indiana Croft »

Nice write up.
May I inquire who’s using primarily this Portuguese felt and who is this FEPSA your referring to. Or is these abrevation

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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by IJJTM »

FEPSA is the company that makes the Portuguese felt. European makers primarily use them such as HJ and Advintage.
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Post by jlee562 »

Yeah, FEPSA is just the company name. Like hat manufacturers of old, they control the entire process from pelt to hat body. This archived article mentions a proprietary chemical process that seems to be a substitute for mercury.

https://web.archive.org/web/20120202192 ... -sao-joao/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Nuno Figueiredo warns us about the sweet, sickly smell of animal fur, and forges ahead, opening the doors of the Cortadoria. Small waves to the workers let them know he’s there while he opens bags, picks up the fur and extends his hand so you can touch it, feel it, distinguish the microns of the fibres; so you can identify the animal: rabbit, hare, beaver, 16, 14 and 12 microns respectively. The lower the micron level, the softer the fur is. In the old days, the felt test was done by spitting in your hand, kneading the fur and pressing down on it. In a matter of seconds, you could assess the weaving capacity of the fibre. Nuno Figueiredo hasn’t forgotten the effectiveness of that method, but prefers to highlight the machines that separate the fur from the skin, which were built from scratch by his team, and the secret acid solution that was developed in his laboratory that facilitates the felt characteristics of fur.
FEPSA most notably supplies Optimo, though they get exclusive colors and blends. HJ is using FEPSA bodies for their hats. I'm not sure off the top of my head who is using them for Indy hats. Hufvud and Hornskov both stock them, though only the former has an Indy hat. It's harder for smaller hatters to get their hands on these bodies because of order minimums but they are out there.
Last edited by jlee562 on Thu Jan 21, 2021 3:05 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by Indiana Croft »

Thank you, that now makes sense.
I have a adVintage in ToD w/slight turn, but have been leaning towards a SoC he makes with the mushroom affect. I’m one of those who like the turn, and most hats i have, have it.

I love my Penman ABL and KOTCS travel hat, And my recent Akubra is going to be a summer time out work hat which I’m wearing these days to break it in.

Croft :mrgreen:
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by IndianaJustin »

Thanks for this thread. I was considering getting a lightsaber....but I just can't pull the trigger on it...right now. I'd rather get more fedoras and bullwhips so this info has been so educational and entertaining. :TOH:
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by Michaelson »

IJJTM wrote:FEPSA is the company that makes the Portuguese felt. European makers primarily use them such as HJ and Advintage.
I live in the Tennessee county where Winchester felt is made, and all the cones for hats made by AdventureBilt came from, literally 12 miles from where I'm currently sitting.......and yet I wear a 78 gr. beaver FEPSA fedora made by Steve Delk in 2006 and reblocked by Dave Garrison multiple times as a 'daily driver'.

(wearing it in my avatar from many years ago at WDW)

I love FEPSA felt, and have only sung their praises since acquiring one.

Still love my Winchester felt fedoras, but dang FEPSA makes good felt!

Regards! Michaelson
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Re: 2021 hat options list

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IJJTM wrote: Tuba, when is your hat expected to arrive if you don't mind me asking?
I just asked John what the timeline is, and can update when I get his answer. But I ordered mid November 2020, so just estimating I think I should have it by July of this year. I will defiantly share pictures on the Penman post 'em up thread when I get it.
Thee wrote: What were the signs that pointed at penman being the best?
I did a lot of internet reading and searches regarding the absolute best Indy hat I could get, if price was not an issue. I watched a lot of YouTube videos of people comparing their different models. A lot of what came up was AB and ABD and Penmen. I was really interested in an ABD as you can find posts from John on this forum where he talks about how Marcs felt was the absolute best, and once you got one of his hats you wouldn't ever want to wear anything else. Well I reached out to Marc, and found, as so many have, that he is no longer answering emails and is presumed out of the business for now. So with Steve and Marc out, that left Penmen. Now that I've joined this forum I found that around 2015-ish John started sourcing the Portuguese beaver from the same place that Marc got his felt (presumably, FEPSA). I asked him about it and he said he has it made to his own specs, but it is from the same place. I asked on another thread here, and got some good encouragement from jlee562 , Ridgerunner58, (and Michaelson's comments on his hat I found elsewhere) to go with a FEPSA felt. So with that in mind I changed my order to a Portuguese beaver hat, as this is the highest quality felt, from one of the most highly regarded hat makers. Seems like a good candidate for the "best" to me.

Not knocking on other makers though, as I've seen some just incredible hats on this forum and elsewhere. Certainly there are better value hats than the one I am getting. I can't recommend my decision to anyone else, until I get my hat. It very well may not be worth it.
Last edited by tubasthebest on Wed Jan 20, 2021 7:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by Indiana Croft »

it will be, john’s work is probably one of the best.
Not sure about these caricature comments, but you’ll find to be your go to hat.
John rebooked my AB and did a very nice job.
Worth the wait, yes. Just wish the wait wasn’t so out there. He’s made hats for some famous people (no I don’t have specifics)
The KOTCS travel hat I bought fit like a glove and never had to pad it out.

As the saying goes. You chose wisely. :TOH:

Croft :mrgreen:
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Re: 2021 hat options list

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Does anyone know anything about HNC Hatworks out of Greece?
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by IJJTM »

Hmm, this is the first time I've heard of them. From the looks of it, they seem alright, but I would probably recommend a Fed 4 over them, they don't seem too proportionally accurate on their Raider. I'd like to hear from someone with firsthand experience about their quality.
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by jlee562 »

There is a thread on HNC/Angoulita over on The Fedora Lounge. The owner, Mr. P can be a bit lackadaisical with emails apparently. I don't have any personal experience. Some of his hats seem quite nice for the price. I can't recall at the moment where he was sourcing the rabbit felt from, perhaps Tonak.
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by DR Ulloa »

I have to mimic what Chewbacca said. Some of John’s pictures may appear to make the proportions of the hat seem like a caricature of the real thing, but my Raiders hat certainly is not. Every one I’ve seen in person is certainly no caricature either. Consider that when we take a picture holding a fedora with arm outstretched, it will look tapered regardless of it being stovepipe straight. Photos don’t always show what we see with our eyes from all angles.

As to his craftsmanship, I’ve owned four of his hats (unfortunately had to sell two when in dire straights a few years ago) and can say that they are as fine as any fedora I’ve ever owned. I have two ABs and have in the past owned many vintage fedoras (again had to sell in the economy of 2008-2010). When I know I’m going on some sort of vacation or camping or any sort of adventure I always reach for my Penman Raiders hat.

Dave
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Re: 2021 hat options list

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DR Ulloa wrote:Consider that when we take a picture holding a fedora with arm outstretched, it will look tapered regardless of it being stovepipe straight. Photos don’t always show what we see with our eyes from all angles.
The kind of photo distortion one gets when taking a selfie would not be applicable for a photo set like the one I posted above where it's a series of photos with a set distance from the camera.

https://youtu.be/9zumV39nm60" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And just to reiterate, it's only some Penmans that come out this way to my eye. Unless your hat is the one I randomly picked from FB, my comments may not apply to your hat.
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by IJJTM »

JC1972 wrote:Does anyone know anything about HNC Hatworks out of Greece?
Someone’s selling theirs on eBay if you’re interested.

ADMINISTRATOR EDIT: http://indygear.com/cow/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=45336" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by JC1972 »

IJJTM wrote:
JC1972 wrote:Does anyone know anything about HNC Hatworks out of Greece?
Someone’s selling theirs on eBay if you’re interested.

ADMINISTRATOR EDIT: http://indygear.com/cow/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=45336" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Actually yes I did, thanks, hence my question
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by Dr. Jones, Jr. »

JC1972 wrote:Does anyone know anything about HNC Hatworks out of Greece?
https://i.etsystatic.com/9169083/r/il/2 ... 7_8cbn.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
:CR: (insert apologies for image size here)

They look pretty good, especially at 204 US dollars and free shipping. That said, it does say that they are rabbit felt and they also have a 3 inch brim all the way around, so be prepared to live with that or cut it down.
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by Indiana Jeff »

I changed your picture to a link to avoid the HUGE size.

The hat does look pretty nice.


Regards,

Indiana Jeff
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Dr. Jones, Jr.
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by Dr. Jones, Jr. »

Indiana Jeff wrote:I changed your picture to a link to avoid the HUGE size.

The hat does look pretty nice.


Regards,

Indiana Jeff
Thank you! sorry, I still can't figure out how to do the resizing thing despite reading the tutorial. The worst part is I've had a couple of IT internships :rolling:
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by IJJTM »

Sorry about posting the link; I'll have to review the rules some more.
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Indiana Jeff
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by Indiana Jeff »

Dr. Jones, Jr. wrote:Thank you! sorry, I still can't figure out how to do the resizing thing despite reading the tutorial. The worst part is I've had a couple of IT internships :rolling:
No worries. Moving from mobile devices to desktops and from one app to another causes all sorts of sizing issues when it comes to pictures.


Regards,

Indiana Jeff
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by jgino »

As of today Herbert Johnson is the best option. Once Penman starts accepting new orders then that is another option.
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by IJJTM »

I agree, but I wouldn’t short-change Advintage and Steele & Jones.
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by DR Ulloa »

jlee562 wrote:
DR Ulloa wrote:Consider that when we take a picture holding a fedora with arm outstretched, it will look tapered regardless of it being stovepipe straight. Photos don’t always show what we see with our eyes from all angles.
The kind of photo distortion one gets when taking a selfie would not be applicable for a photo set like the one I posted above where it's a series of photos with a set distance from the camera.

https://youtu.be/9zumV39nm60" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And just to reiterate, it's only some Penmans that come out this way to my eye. Unless your hat is the one I randomly picked from FB, my comments may not apply to your hat.
It definitely is not. LOL

I feel very much like you. I don't care for the exaggerated SoC look that we often see. It isn't even that distressed or saggy in the film. Personally, my favorite look has always been the Chachapoyan Temple hat.

Dave
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by jgino »

IJJTM wrote:I agree, but I wouldn’t short-change Advintage and Steele & Jones.
Which one do you prefer?
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by IJJTM »

Between S & J and Advintage, or them along with HJ and Penman?
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by jgino »

IJJTM wrote:Between S & J and Advintage, or them along with HJ and Penman?
Advintage & S&J.
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by IJJTM »

Depends on what you want, if you want a really nice, durable beaver hat that you could wear at any time, probably Advintage, but if you want a 100% accurate hare hat for the first three, I’d go with S & J.
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by JC1972 »

I just ordered a Advintage Raider last week, 120 day wait which I don't mind. I have my Harrison to tide me over.
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Re: 2021 hat options list

Post by jgino »

IJJTM wrote:Depends on what you want, if you want a really nice, durable beaver hat that you could wear at any time, probably Advintage, but if you want a 100% accurate hare hat for the first three, I’d go with S & J.
I didn't know Advintage was durable, so it can be worn for hiking and camping?
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