Jacket advice

[Synycyl]

Hello all,

I am hoping for some advice. I have just purchased my first Wested leather jacket, a LC in predistressed cowhide, size 44.

I ordered an off the rack size 44 as my chest measured 44" and was under the impression that the LC was more roomy in the chest. Part of the reason I decided on an off the rack model was so I could return it without significant penalty versus a custom jacket if it did not fit.

It did not fit. It is tight around the chest. I can't bend my arms up to use the handwarmer pockets without severe tightness across the chest and shoulders. There is no way I could layer anything under this jacket other than a t shirt.

I am not upset, because now I have a baseline to go by, and feel better about ordering a custom jacket. My question deals with arm length. How long should the sleeves go down the arm on a new jacket? I understand the sleeve will "shrink" a little once the leather wears in a bit. With the new jacket and my arms down by my sides, the end of the sleeve covers half of my wrist watch. I think that is too short, but am looking for advice.

On a side note, I am not very worldly, but I noticed that the zipper pull on this jacket is on the left. Here in the US, a male zipper pull is typically on the right and a female zipper pull is typically on the left. At least that is how my jackets and wife's jackets are. Is it an English thing to have the zipper pull on a male jacket on the left?

Thanks for your advice.

Syn

[Tibor]

Sleeve length is a little dependent on personal taste, but generally past your wrist joint but before the second thumb joint near your palm. And yes, the zip on British (and many non-US jackets) is opposite with the pull on the left. This is accurate to the originals in Raiders which were made by Wested.

As a caution, best to measure a jacket that fits the way you want from pit-to-pit... size 44 fit varies by style and maker.

[Texan Scott]

first knuckle of the thumb

[backstagejack]

first knuckle of the thumb

I definitely agree with this, but there are some that don't care. I can't stand a jacket, shirt, etc to ride up past my wrists. My first raiders from Wested did this.

I would think measuring from your first or even mid knuckle of your thumb should be best practice.

[Texan Scott]

...kinda' like high waters for sleeves...?

Put your jacket back on and measure from the shoulder seam to the first knuckle, more or less.

[Chewbacca Jones]

My tailor says first (or top) knuckle of the thumb, unless you want shirt cuffs showing (such as french cuffs with a formal jacket).

[Synycyl]

Thanks for all the advice so far. Based on your comments I will re measure my arms to get that length correct.

I plan to go up a chest size to 46. I will probably add an inch or two to the length as well.

I am thinking about going with the shoulder gussets for more range of motion in the arms. Anyone have experience with that option?

Thanks.

Syn

[Synycyl]

I have another question when it comes to arm length measurements. According to Wested's size guide, a size 44 jacket has a 25.5 inch sleeve. I took out the jacket that I will be sending back and measured what appeared to be the longest part of the sleeve, from the cuff to the top of the sleeve where the sleeve meets the shoulder, right where the front and rear shoulder pieces meet. That measurement was 24 inches. I couldn't find any part of the sleeve that measured 25.5 inches. I used a cloth tape. Am I measuring incorrectly?

I checked the other measurements on their chart. The shoulder is supposed to be 7.5 inches and it measured 7 inches seam to seam. The back is supposed to be 26.5 inches and it measured 27 inches. I am not too concerned about those measurements, as they are only off by a half an inch, but I don't see how the sleeves can be off 1.5 inches.

[Texan Scott]

If it has not been used, maybe send it back and enclose the measurements you need. They can measure a better fitting OTR for you, before they ship it. It could be this was odd sized or marked wrongly? This could a truer 42 standard, but its off all the way around?

[Synycyl]

I am definitely sending it back. I was also wondering if it was a mismarked 42, but the back length came out to be slightly longer than what a 44 should be, so I am not sure that is the case.

My plan is to include a lengthy letter in the return. For example, I will explain that I want the sleeves to be 2.5 inches longer than the jacket they sent, but ask them to measure the sleeves on the jacket to determine how long that will be. It would seem that 2.5 inches added to the 24 inch sleeves I measured would be 26.5 inches. But that measurement is only one inch longer than what they say is the size of the sleeves on that jacket.

I would like to know where the discrepancy lies between my measuring and their measuring. This jacket is going to be on the heavier side of their leather. Once I get a jacket that fits, I would like to be able to order a lambskin version for warmer months. Knowing how to communicate my measurements would be a big help.

[Texan Scott]

..from all appearances, your jacket was made on Monday or a Friday....