Wested Temple of Doom Underarm Gussetts

[corbellatoris]

Hello everyone!

I am looking into ordering a custom Wested ToD jacket, but noticed that there are no options for underarm gussets (I'm more interested in a functional jacket that has the aesthetic than a 100% SA copy).

I scrolled down, and it says:

Gussets: This is not an option on this jacket as it actually has internal gussets so there's no need for them on the outside of the jacket.

I haven't been able to find any pictures or reviews that mention them.

Does anyone have any idea what is meant by "internal gussets" and know how well they perform in this jacket? Are there any pictures of the gussets on the ToD jacket anywhere (So far I have spent a few days looking here and elsewhere without success)?

Thanks in advance!

[eporium]

I have a Wested ToD jacket and I have no idea what they mean by "internal gussets" nor can I find any on my jacket.

The design/cut of the ToD jacket is different from the other Wested Indy and probably does not need gussets. I have had the other
other Wested Indy jackets and find the ToD more of a "normal" fit.

However do check the measurements with Wested. My jacket does not match the measurements given by Wested, which may explain
why it is an easy fit. My jacket is a size 38, according to their measurement chart a shoulder is 6.5" but on my jacket a shoulder
measures 7.25". This difference affects the arm length.

My jacket is the one pictured on their clearance page http://www.wested.com/clearance-46-c.asp

[indymassilia]

I usually asked Wested Gussets-yes with NO STITCHINGS,and everything is perfect,with some less flying squirrel effect.

[corbellatoris]

I sent Wested an email asking the same thing.

I'll let you guys know what they say.

[Forrest For the Trees]

Peter had once said something to the effect of underarm gussets not being necessary due to the construction of the sleeve and armhole. I think the effect of a gusset is already built into the design.

[Michaelson]

Not necessary? I wonder why he installed them in this screen used jacket worn by Ford in Raiders as seen in the Stars book? They were necessary then.



Regards! Michaelson

[CM]

I remember Peter saying that on the ToD gussets were unnecessary because of the unusual, and in his words, "clever construction" of the ToD pattern.

I'd love to see what this means too.

[backstagejack]

I remember Peter saying that on the ToD gussets were unnecessary because of the unusual, and in his words, "clever construction" of the ToD pattern.

I'd love to see what this means too.

interior gussets are clever! Well.... they sound clever, whatever they are. I've been on this forum for a long time and have never heard the term "internal gussets" much less in association with an Indy jacket.

Interested to see where this goes.

[corbellatoris]

I wish I had better news for everyone, but this was my response from Wested:

Hello,

Internal means inside, the gussets are inside the jacket, they are pre-built into the sleeve so they don't show on the outside.

They work the same as regular gussets, they're just internal.

A picture is pretty impossible to get unfortunately as it would mean taking a jacket to pieces.

All the Best,

Wested

The only thing I can think of is that in the jacket design, the portion of the sleeve under the armpit is a tad longer than an equivalently sized ROLA/LC jacket. Would someone with a Wested ToD be kind enough to take a picture of the side/underarm of the jacket?

The question remains, if the design was so clever, why not include it in the LC\KCS designs?

[eporium]

Here is a photo of the armpit of my Wested ToD jacket.

[CM]

I wish I had better news for everyone, but this was my response from Wested:

Hello,

Internal means inside, the gussets are inside the jacket, they are pre-built into the sleeve so they don't show on the outside.

They work the same as regular gussets, they're just internal.

A picture is pretty impossible to get unfortunately as it would mean taking a jacket to pieces.

All the Best,

Wested

The only thing I can think of is that in the jacket design, the portion of the sleeve under the armpit is a tad longer than an equivalently sized ROLA/LC jacket. Would someone with a Wested ToD be kind enough to take a picture of the side/underarm of the jacket?

The question remains, if the design was so clever, why not include it in the LC\KCS designs?

No, that's not the question. As Peter said he didn't make the ToD jacket and no one who made the LC or KCS had access to a TOD jacket at that time. Plus the costume designer called the shots around what was in and out of the pattern.

[CM]

Here is a photo of the armpit of my Wested ToD jacket.

Now you need to turn it inside out, cut open the lining and show us what an internal gusset looks like.

[corbellatoris]

I went ahead and too the plunge on a ToD jacket... I think they are referring to the cut of one of the pieces on the sleve and the cut of the armholes. Essentially, there is a little extra material in the armpit, which is what an 'internal gusset' means.

Here is a picture of my jacket for clarification:

[knibs7]

I went ahead and too the plunge on a ToD jacket... I think they are referring to the cut of one of the pieces on the sleve and the cut of the armholes. Essentially, there is a little extra material in the armpit, which is what an 'internal gusset' means.

What hide did you go with?

[corbellatoris]

I went ahead and too the plunge on a ToD jacket... I think they are referring to the cut of one of the pieces on the sleve and the cut of the armholes. Essentially, there is a little extra material in the armpit, which is what an 'internal gusset' means.

What hide did you go with?

Authentic Goat.

I posted more pics here: http://indygear.com/cow/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=65551" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[CM]

I see now - the internal gusset is really a poor name then. What it actually means - if I have this right - is the jacket has a special sleeve construction with additional material under the armpit (essentially the sleeve extends longer into the body) to provide the sleeve with greater range of movement.

[Glenville86]

I sort of pulled one off today. Ordered a TOD from Wested but they only go up to size 46. I ordered the 46 but in the comments requested a size 50 jacket, larger pockets but smaller than the raiders and in horsehide. Have plenty of lightweight Indy jackets.

Wested did their normal screening of the order and sent me the e-mail my jacket was being processed. I e-mailed back that in the special section, I wanted a size 50 which they had not noticed. Received an e-mail back basically being scolded for my trickery but they agreed to make the jacket. They told me they had a hard time making the jackets over size 46 because it is a slimmer fitting jacket and runs about a 1/2 size small. Not a big deal for me as a 50 in the Wested are a looser fitting jacket. My normal sport jacket size is a 46 athletic cut or a 48 that requires major alterations.......I can wear a Wested 48 with no issues. Just like a looser fitting outerwear jacket.

[Rikimaru]

I sort of pulled one off today. Ordered a TOD from Wested but they only go up to size 46. I ordered the 46 but in the comments requested a size 50 jacket, larger pockets but smaller than the raiders and in horsehide. Have plenty of lightweight Indy jackets.

Wested did their normal screening of the order and sent me the e-mail my jacket was being processed. I e-mailed back that in the special section, I wanted a size 50 which they had not noticed. Received an e-mail back basically being scolded for my trickery but they agreed to make the jacket. They told me they had a hard time making the jackets over size 46 because it is a slimmer fitting jacket and runs about a 1/2 size small. Not a big deal for me as a 50 in the Wested are a looser fitting jacket. My normal sport jacket size is a 46 athletic cut or a 48 that requires major alterations.......I can wear a Wested 48 with no issues. Just like a looser fitting outerwear jacket.

Did you have gussets added to your jacket? If not, what relevance does this have to this thread

[Glenville86]

I sort of pulled one off today. Ordered a TOD from Wested but they only go up to size 46. I ordered the 46 but in the comments requested a size 50 jacket, larger pockets but smaller than the raiders and in horsehide. Have plenty of lightweight Indy jackets.

Wested did their normal screening of the order and sent me the e-mail my jacket was being processed. I e-mailed back that in the special section, I wanted a size 50 which they had not noticed. Received an e-mail back basically being scolded for my trickery but they agreed to make the jacket. They told me they had a hard time making the jackets over size 46 because it is a slimmer fitting jacket and runs about a 1/2 size small. Not a big deal for me as a 50 in the Wested are a looser fitting jacket. My normal sport jacket size is a 46 athletic cut or a 48 that requires major alterations.......I can wear a Wested 48 with no issues. Just like a looser fitting outerwear jacket.

Did you have gussets added to your jacket? If not, what relevance does this have to this thread

I guess none you jerk. Did not see where you are a moderator.

[Holt]

Okay, back to your corners.

There is no need for name callings here!

Keep it civil and play nice.

[theman]

I sort of pulled one off today. Ordered a TOD from Wested but they only go up to size 46. I ordered the 46 but in the comments requested a size 50 jacket, larger pockets but smaller than the raiders and in horsehide. Have plenty of lightweight Indy jackets.

Wested did their normal screening of the order and sent me the e-mail my jacket was being processed. I e-mailed back that in the special section, I wanted a size 50 which they had not noticed. Received an e-mail back basically being scolded for my trickery but they agreed to make the jacket. They told me they had a hard time making the jackets over size 46 because it is a slimmer fitting jacket and runs about a 1/2 size small. Not a big deal for me as a 50 in the Wested are a looser fitting jacket. My normal sport jacket size is a 46 athletic cut or a 48 that requires major alterations.......I can wear a Wested 48 with no issues. Just like a looser fitting outerwear jacket.

If your normal sport jacket is size 46 athletic cut then maybe you should stick with their size 46, or at best only go up to a 48... I think the 50 will be extra loose on you if you wear their 48 with no issues then the ToD version will just follow the athletic cut 1/2 size difference better anyway.

on the gussets, there is no need to add gussets to the ToD... corb's post with pic is exactly correct in the interpretation of the falsely named "internal gusset" as they are indeed just incorporated into the sleeve shape pattern.

[Glenville86]

I usually buy their size 50 as I like a looser fitting jacket. I usually wear a 2xl or 2xl tall in most jackets. In jackets like Aero, I wear a 52. The 48 fits fine but I like the extra room, I have big upper arms which make the larger size a better fit in the Wested jackets. I personally find the Wested jackets to run slightly smaller than US jackets.

[theman]

Hmmm, yeah if your Aero is a 52, then the 50 would do better after all... really surprising though, I find the Aero stuff to have a good bit of room and would place them right with normal Wested sizing in the 44 range.

[Glenville86]

I have to get the 52 to fit in the sleeves and length for most of the Aero jackets. They are still slightly form fitting in the 52 in the shoulders and upper arms.

[Illinois James]

I always assumed that's what Wested meant by the hidden gusset, that is was incorporated into the panel shapes at the underarm joint to have the effect of the extra material of the visible 'football' shaped gusset.

And, Hi Dan!

[Glenville86]

It will be interesting to get the ToD jacket and see how it fits as compared to the Raiders and LC/CS jackets. Between those two jackets, the Raiders fit really well and have excellent freedom of movement around the arms. The LC/CS jackets are fine for me as long as you don't have to move your arms very high as the whole jacket moves up (flying squirrel). This is with gussets as well.

[Holt]

There are no underarm gussets in the temple of doom. Nor outside or inside.

The hidden gussets are in the inside back lining. They are kinda like pleats if you will.

[backstagejack]

Yes.... my hamster has gussets and that makes my hamster worthy of having gussets in this post cause it's about gussets.... as long as I make sure and mention gussets somewhere it will be okay.

Sorry I'm being facetious I'll stop now..... gussets

[CM]

No gussets Holt? I give up.

[Glenville86]

Do we have to mention pleats now vice gussets in every post now?

[Tyrloch]

I always assumed that's what Wested meant by the hidden gusset, that is was incorporated into the panel shapes at the underarm joint to have the effect of the extra material of the visible 'football' shaped gusset.

And, Hi Dan!

I think it was merely misworded: instead of internal it should be read integral, as in built in to the design as to not need a separate piece to make it up...

[Michaelson]

THAT would make more sense.

Regard! Michaelson

[theman]

Correct, that would make more sense... So I have this very example across the Wolverine jackets as well... X1 has stitched together underarm gusset pieces with the in-sleeve pieces, but X2 and X3 were used on a pattern base that had the underarm gusset piece/shape as just part of the in-sleeve pattern piece, no further stitching needed, but the function of sleeve articulation performs as it should.

[Photoss]

I just received my ToD in authentic brown lamb, and I really like how the jacket sleeves lay on your arms. Little to no flying-squirrel effect, and no bunching. They should make these 'non-gusset things' standard on their other jackets. Pattern is a perfect fit too. Only downside is that the current ABL is so gray. (Commencing my research on leather dyes...)

[Glenville86]

I received my TOD in Horsehide last week. For me, the fit is about the same as my Hero jacket in the upper body. Snugger in the shoulders and upper arms than my other Indy Wested jackets. Nice jacket.

The fit in the upper body is true for many leather jackets I own or have owned. I have a Schott half belt jacket, Aero, Vanson and a couple Wings Legend jackets that are fine unzipped but once zipped, freedom of movement in the upper body (shoulder/arms) is limited. These jackets fit and some are one size up for me but it is just the way they are cut and my shoulders and upper arm size. I am not squeezed into the jackets at all in the upper body and they wear and look fine but not the kind of fit I would want if I was actually needing full range of motion involving raising my arms any higher than my chest.

Wested once again sent me a jacket missing one side of the bottom hidden snap. This is the 2nd one they have done this on. The did offer to fix it or mail me the other side.