Photoss and the Search for the Last Crusade Jacket

[Photoss]

—— Preface ——
(skip this post if you just want to read my review)

This is the unfinished tale of my personal 'crusade'. Like some of you, I feel like the “Last Crusade” jacket was THE Indy jacket. The Raiders jacket was cool and minimal, but didn’t stand out in my mind, and I never saw the Temple jacket enough to have any opinions on it until recently. But the LC jacket, that’s the one that a seasoned adventurer wore. Opinions vary, and many of you hate it, but we all have our idea of THE ONE. The distressing plays a big part of that, but the details are important to get down also. My favorite jackets are from the motorcycle and zeppelin scenes.

Up until the end of the summer, I had gone through six US Wings jackets and one imported Wested over the years. The Wings jackets always missed the mark for various reasons, and the Wested import was an OTR from Pakistan that was an ugly flat pale brown (with grey underneath!). At that point, it seemed to me that the TN LC jacket seemed to be the best choice; but by the time I realized that, it was too late to obtain one (even if I had the money). A Magnoli jacket seemed to be a close second, but was way out of my price range. I took a break from Indy for a few years, but in early 2015 I started my search again, signing back onto COW literally thinking “Here I go again; wonder how much $$$ it will be this time!”

I was heartened recent vendor initiatives and all the new jacket pictures and screen shots from members. After seeing the beautiful work Steele & Jones did with their “Cazadora ’36”, I took the dive and ordered one of their LC jackets at the beginning of June (pre-distressed, and originally in thin cowhide, but after talking to Diego, was convinced premium cowhide was the way to go!). It’s supposed to be done near the end of this month, and after seeing some preview pictures of the hide, it looks incredible! You guys are going to love it! There was a couple other members in front of me, so hopefully we’ll be seeing pictures of their jackets soon.

Soon after I ordered the S&J, I decided that I needed a lighter jacket that I could wear to work that would look nice (I’m a teacher, so it’s ties and slacks every day). In addition, San Diego is not the best place to wear cowhide, so while waiting for my S&J, the jacket search continued. After seeing some fantastic recent LC’s in the jacket section, I settled on a custom Wested. About two weeks after ordering it, I snagged a Magnoli LC on eBay for a great price. It wasn't made for me, and it doesn't fit as well as I had hoped so I'm on the fence about keeping it. But I will certainly write a review of it before I let it go!

So the point of my thread is simple: To chronicle my search and make a review of each of the current Last Crusade options, with Wested, Magnoli, and Steele & Jones. (Wish I could include a Nowak, but those are hard to find!) The Wested review will be first, followed by the Magnoli. I will hopefully receive the S&J sometime in November, at which point I will be able to make my review of it. As far as distressing goes, the only one that will for-sure be screen-accurate distressed is the S&J. The Wested is so nice that I might see about letting it break in naturally, mostly.

[Photoss]

—— Part 1: Wested LC Custom ——
As noted above, I decided to get a Wested to fill the niche of a ‘nice’ work jacket that didn’t look like I had been punching nazis on a tank all morning before school. I did hours of research on COW and other boards prior to purchase, and one could literally write a book based on the countless threads I read through. (Specifically, the LC threads here in the jacket section proved most helpful of all, along with movie-screencaps.com.) Not all my requests were screen-accurate, nor did I want all screen-accurate details; I simply wanted something long-lasting and functional, while still having the heavy LC vibe.

Here were my specifics and requests. Not all of these are screen-accurate, nor did I want all screen-accurate details:
Jacket Size: 46 chest
Sleeve Length: 25”
Back Length: 26”
Skin Type: Authentic Brown Lambskin 
Lining Type: All Cotton 
Side Straps: D Rings 
Gussets: Yes
— Special Requests —
1. NO leather facings.
2. Black cotton lining, sleeves and body.
3. Single-stitched seams on sleeves, no overstitch at back of arm, plain butted seam like the front sleeve seam.
4. Simple piped inside pocket.
5. Antique brass zipper.
6. Collar 3.25” at the end points and 2.75” tapered in the back (adding 1/4" to the current LC/CS collar pattern).
7. Collar stand 7/8”.
8. Rounded collar points (not pointy like Crystal Skull).
9. Top of storm flap squared-off, not tapered.
10. Storm flap width 1.75”.
11. Pockets raised off the hem of the jacket, base of pockets 2.75” above bottom of jacket.
12. Pockets 7.25” tall x 6.5” wide.
13. Well defined Last Crusade scalloped flaps with rounded-centre (not pointy like CS).
14. Large pocket flaps that snap on midway down the pockets.
15. Dark or antique coloured D-rings.
16. “Leather Concessionaires” label tag.

The order took exactly one month, as I ordered on September 8th and received it on October 8th. Here it is:







Front:
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x30/ ... qzrino.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x30/ ... vlzwx8.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x30/ ... 5l6qzj.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x30/ ... tkkwez.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Front zipped:
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x30/ ... 53ygdr.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x30/ ... p17d3h.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Back:
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x30/ ... p3xugs.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x30/ ... zpzzhp.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Pocket:
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x30/ ... nauwtd.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

As with most Wested orders, they hit a good 75%-90% of your requests. I was pleased that most of mine got in there. As you can see it has its pros and cons.
Pros:
- The comfiest and best jacket fit I’ve ever had. The cotton lining is far superior to all the nylon and satin linings I’ve had.
- Feels great zipped or unzipped (which isn’t the case with many LC jackets)
- Beautiful lambskin leather that feels buttery soft, but still has heft (heavier than Wested’s old lamb).
- Nice warm brown color, with a dusty brown undertone (from what I’ve seen).
- The lack of leather facings makes the zipper have that perfect screen-accurate wave.
- The collar seems very SA (depending on the scene).
- Pockets are placed exactly how I wanted.
- Gussets feel good, and give you little of that flying-squirrel look.

Cons:
- Those pocket flaps: I have a love-hate relationship with the pocket flaps. They are beefy and full (which I wanted) but they are simply too big. They look better/worse depending on the angle that you look at them. (They are definitely like no flaps I’ve ever seen!)
- The collar stand is not 7/8”, but rather 1.25” (booo).
- Zipper makes an annoying jingle because it is a 3-section zipper. Should’ve asked for a simpler one.
- Back pleats are a little too deep, and tend to stick out.
- The back panel seems a bit big.

Suggestions: If you’re looking to have Wested make you a SA LC, I’d recommend sending them pictures and diagrams of the exact details you want. Also, I neglected to raise the D-rings up an inch or two, and for screen accuracy I should’ve asked for no stitch on the bottom hem. These are small things, but still things we care about around here. You might need to nicely pester them a bit about some of your requests, or else they might forget a thing here or there.

All in all, I like the jacket quite a lot. To be SA it would need a lot of distressing, but for what it is now, it’s perfect for me. The only thing I would definitely change would be the pocket flaps. The other things are minimal, and I really feel like I’m slipping on a LC jacket when I put it on. When the weather stops being 100ºf on weekends, I’ll head off into the wilderness for some gear pics.


Part 2 will be my review of my Magnoli, and Part 3 will be written as soon as I receive my Steele & Jones, which will hopefully be sometime next month! Stay tuned.

[Michaelson]

Excellent review! Keep 'em coming!

Regard! Michaelson

[Holt]

Very nice jacket. allthough I see your love/hate relationship with those flaps. Those are some big flaps Still, very nice jacket.

[Kt Templar]

Yes, the pocket flaps are a bit too big, the whole pocket needs to be a squatter squarer shape.

The side straps are the right position in relation to the bottom of the pocket, the LC ones were about aligned with the bottom of the pocket. The strap attachment on the jacket back panel should be narrow boxes quite close to the edge of the back like the CS jacket, but Wested usually anchors them an inch and a half to 2 inches inwards of the back panel side seam. It's not a biggie IMO.

I would have ordered the jacket a bit longer and yes removed the lower seam.

Love the black cotton liner....

Collar looks fab too.

[knibs7]

Those flaps are huge, but it's still a really nice jacket

[CM]

For an LC better you have big flaps than little flaps. I had a Wested LC from 2002 and the pockets were simply Raiders ones and it really hacked me off. Even my friend who wasn't an Indy fan pointed out my jacket was wrong when we watched the film on DVD.

Somewhere there are measurements for the perfect LC pocket flap on a size 42 - I believe traced from the Smithsonian jacket. Possibly Magnoli uses these measurements.

[Texan Scott]

Question, Photoss? What is the actual height of the pockets? Details matter, but it would be nice if the details were standardized like the Hero in a custom order. Despite the pattern, there are some details and specs about the jacket that made it different from the raiders jacket. Most have been chronicled in this thread:

http://indygear.com/cow/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=58189" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Screencapped]

Beautiful jacket!!!

[Photoss]

Thank you for the input and kind words!
I’m planning on distressing it a little bit, but am still thinking about those flaps. CM: I definitely agree that it’s better they are too big vs too small! I’m considering having a leather tailor reshape them before I attack it with any sandpaper. Anyone had any experience with reshaping? My favorite pocket flaps are the ones here:


As a side note, the current flaps are reminiscent of this Kelso A2, but don’t look quite as good since my pocket shape is much larger.


Texan Scott: The pockets - including flaps - measure 7.75” tall x 6.5” wide. Excluding the flaps, they measure my original spec choice 7.25” x 6.5”. And I actually used that thread you posted as one of my primary research threads. I used some specs posted on there, and COW member car96 generously shared his well-researched spec list as well. Also, the length is something I really like about it, and while it might look better if it were longer, I enjoy the ‘A2’ feel of it.

[Photoss]

UPDATE: I wrote the text below over a month ago, but hadn’t gotten around to posting it yet (thanks to the busy life of a teacher). My S&J jacket is still a little ways off from any arrival, but to pass the time I did some distressing on my Wested, and it’s looking a lot better! Pics of that are coming. Meanwhile, here’s my review of my Magnoli.


Part 2: Magnoli Clothiers Jacket

As I mentioned before, I nabbed a Magnoli version #3 on eBay rather unexpectedly (you know purchases like that). To preface this, I’m a long-time Magnoli Clothiers customer. I have loved everything I’ve bought from them, including multiple Indy bags, journals, shirt, and several ‘Jack Bauer’ cotton jackets. On that note, this jacket was made for someone else, so I knew the measurements would not be perfect.

What type of hide is it? That’s a good question. The seller posted it as lightweight cowhide, but it doesn’t feel like that at all. The weight and grain make me think it has to be either lamb or goat. This jacket is VERY lightweight, maybe even half the weight of my lamb Wested! It’s also lighter than my old US Wings featherweight lamb Legend. I took a bit of sandpaper to it, and it did not distress at all, so I’m fairly certain it’s goat. Easily strong enough to withstand moderate to heavy use.

The star points of this jacket are the details, and they are fantastic! As has been reported before, the measurements were allegedly taken directly from the Smithsonian jacket, and that is definitely true, from what I can see. Many specs are similar to or mirror my Wested. The collar is 3” all around (no taper), and the collar stand is 1”, and it sports single-stitched seams and no hem stitch. The only thing that seems off is (once again!) the pocket flaps. They are more akin to the simple rectangle look than the SA rounded scallop. The lining is a high quality black satin, and there are no leather facings, so it curls out naturally and screen-accurately. Stitching is tight, and the leather is tough; it feels very Indy-like. The satin lining is very nice, and makes for a comfy costume jacket, though I personally greatly prefer cotton lining (which I know Tony could get for you).

Surprisingly, I find this jacket very uncomfortable. I had heard rumor that the LC style was not comfy, and if this is what it feels like, I am now a believer! It just kind of hangs off my body at weird angles. Fit-wise, the sleeves are too short for me, and the chest is too large. I think the chest size was made for someone whose chest pushed out more than mine, and the armholes are almost too far back for me, making it seem both too large and too small! ??? The back length is 27”, which is too long for the look I prefer, but very comfy for a casual jacket. The lack of gussets give me quite the flying squirrel effect, and it’s even less comfy when zipped up. Here's some pics:







Collar:
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x30/ ... qq0eaj.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Back:
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x30/ ... c2aop5.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x30/ ... hrz8wa.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Zipped:
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x30/ ... qdboil.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Pocket:
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x30/ ... p4o0jh.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Hem:
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x30/ ... wd7yls.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Side:
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x30/ ... ewdtgz.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x30/ ... aknnxy.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


So many people have great experiences with Magnoli, I know if you want one of these made for you, it will be a near perfect fit if you measure properly. If this was heavily and properly distressed, it would be a dead ringer for the ‘beach’ scene jacket. Some water treatment and breaking in might help it fit me better, but I can’t run the risk of the sleeves shrinking any more!! I’m on the fence though: wearing it makes me strongly consider selling, whereas looking at my own pictures here makes me want to keep it! Will probably pass it on soon, because I won’t need three LC jackets in the closet, but this one truly is a beauty.

[Kt Templar]

Thank you for the input and kind words!
I’m planning on distressing it a little bit, but am still thinking about those flaps. CM: I definitely agree that it’s better they are too big vs too small! I’m considering having a leather tailor reshape them before I attack it with any sandpaper. Anyone had any experience with reshaping? My favorite pocket flaps are the ones here:


As a side note, the current flaps are reminiscent of this Kelso A2, but don’t look quite as good since my pocket shape is much larger.


Texan Scott: The pockets - including flaps - measure 7.75” tall x 6.5” wide. Excluding the flaps, they measure my original spec choice 7.25” x 6.5”. And I actually used that thread you posted as one of my primary research threads. I used some specs posted on there, and COW member car96 generously shared his well-researched spec list as well. Also, the length is something I really like about it, and while it might look better if it were longer, I enjoy the ‘A2’ feel of it.

I just realised how you may be able to 'fix' the flap though the popper may no longer work.

The flap is attached to the jacket along it's top seam. If you can get a leather worker to remove it and take out 1/4-1/2 and inch at the top and re-attach it at the same place you will end up with a better proportioned flap, you will have to make sure you don't take out so much you reveal the popper on the pocket. Note restiching it to the same holes may cause weakness, you may have to restitch the pocket in slightly higher up the jacket, but that may not be such a bad thing either.

If you are feeling very brave you can take the popper part off the pocket and move that up too, but you will need a leather repair kit to fill the hole you have left.

[CM]

Hmm, where to start? I think the Manoli fits best of all but the pocket flaps look too squared off and not very Smithsonian or LC. Are they wide enough? Hard to tell from the angles. The LC flaps are meant to be wider than the cargo pocket. This detail looks wrong on this jacket. Frustrating. No disrespect but the Magnoli pockets generally look like they were added in the desultory manner of mass production.

[Photoss]

——Part 3: Steele & Jones LC ——
My search for the perfect LC jacket has come to an end - for now - as my S&J LC has arrived! I’ve purchased many Indy jackets over the years, but this is definitely the first time I have been TOTALLY satisfied! I feel like I stole the jacket off the set!

PLEASE NOTE: This thing is hard to photograph! Unfortunately my cheap old camera did not like working with me today (and I don’t own a smartphone), so the pictures don’t pick up a lot of the nuances. The leather is not as thin as it looks, and is smoother than it appears on the screen. The distressing seems to pick up the light a lot, and it’s definitely not as ’glossy’ as it might look. The distressing itself is very hard to photograph also. The color also seems to morph, but it’s definitely dark brown, not as ‘russet’ as it looks outside. I color-corrected as best I could, and for reference I’m wearing a Wested shirt.

Front (first pic is best true color):



http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x30/ ... fw9tkr.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x30/ ... ydqrjy.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x30/ ... 5p0olk.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Sleeve


Back

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x30/ ... a6zz0s.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Comparison:


My jacket was order #53, in pre-distressed premium cowhide. Fits exactly like I wanted, and for cowhide, the leather is very light-weight, even lighter than my Wested up above. I asked for black lining and Diego delivered! As soon as I slipped it on and looked in the mirror, it looked like I had just boarded the zeppelin and was about to sit down next to Sean Connery. It might not be a perfect match to what’s on screen sometimes, but I will say this: I like this jacket more than the one in the movie, which is something I’d never thought I’d say when it comes to an Indy jacket. All of you who are waiting on S&J orders, I can assure you that this is worth the wait! I will try to get some better pictures soon.

[Mitch LaRue]

GREAT write-up (once again) Photoss!

Very glad you love that Steele & Jones so much!
I'm LC Order #57 and can't wait to get my mitts on mine as well! This great review and helpful photos have now got me 'chompin' at the bit'

[Indiego Jones]

Thanks for the review!

[Holt]

Great write up. Really nice jacket. Diego did good!

what are you gonna do with the wested LC? Let me know if you are thinking about selling it.

[car96]

Looks good, glad you are happy wi h it.

Diego does so well communicating with you over email and getting those measurements where you want them.

[Screencapped]

That's without a doubt THE best LC Jacket I've ever laid eyes on! It looks phenomenal! I've got to get one of these.
Brian

[Doctor_Jones]

I'm also saving up money to order myself a S&J LC jacket. In the meantime I gave my 2011 Wested LC jacket in predistressed hide a new coating and it made the color much darker than before. Not sure if it stays like that but we'll see. First coating was done yesterday. I posted a pic on instagram.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BEdxn0SK2ir/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Should have taken a before pic but I thought about it when I was done. The inside of the pockets are still the original color.

[Holt]

Once the coating dries out it turns to its original look.

Nice jacket tho.

[Doctor_Jones]

It's been about 30 hours now since I coated it and it still looks the same dark brown. I did use a brown colored creme. Not sure if it will stay. Time will tell I guess.

[Photoss]

I'm also saving up money to order myself a S&J LC jacket. In the meantime I gave my 2011 Wested LC jacket in predistressed hide a new coating and it made the color much darker than before. Not sure if it stays like that but we'll see. First coating was done yesterday. I posted a pic on instagram.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BEdxn0SK2ir/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Should have taken a before pic but I thought about it when I was done. The inside of the pockets are still the original color.

Hopefully it will stay that darker color, because it looks great! I did the same thing to a us wings pre-distressed cow a few years ago, and it did return to its normal lighter color after about two weeks, but some jackets don't, so you might get lucky.

[Doctor_Jones]

Was planning to give it a second coat later tonight or tomorrow. Maybe that'll help it a bit. We'll see. If it turns back as of old, well... I tried anyway. )

[Holt]

It's been about 30 hours now since I coated it and it still looks the same dark brown. I did use a brown colored creme. Not sure if it will stay. Time will tell I guess.

This can take months and months. Year maby.

[Doctor_Jones]

That's fine.

[Michaelson]

It's a slow process, unless you're in a really dry environment, where the treatment will evaporate faster from the leather fibers (and as has been said, it WILL eventually evaporate).

Once you notice it's not to your liking, just give it another coat!

Some of us just make it an annual 'event' of adding a new single coat of leather care product to our jackets right before putting them away for the season.

Regard! Michaelson

[Doctor_Jones]

I live in Belgium... They say England's weather is bad... well, here it's even worse.
But I'm saving up for a S&J LC jacket anyway. Will be some time still and with the summer coming up it'll probably not happen before then. But I like the way they distress their jackets. I already contacted them and they gave me a whole lot of info so that I can give them the correct measurements for mine. Will use the Wested LC jacket as a reference and what can be further improved. I like my Wested but it's not 100 % to my liking and it's the third or fourth jacket ( I lost count) that I bought from Peter in past 15-16 years. For example, I really want the jacket to be a bit longer, especially in the back.
In the meantime I'll probably give my Wested a second coating in the near future.

[Michaelson]