Scramber_CJ8 wrote:I was originally interested in ordering a Hero, but had some concerns regarding fit compared to the Standard Raiders. I think TheExit148's Nowak Raiders pics look like an ideal fit for me. I like the shorter length, narrower body fit and narrower/tapered sleeves (the standard Raiders sleeves are much too wide I think). However, I read somewhere that the Wested Hero cut was not ideal for people with narrower shoulders, so I guess I wrote it off in my mind. Here are a few concerns I have about the Hero:
- I wear a Size 38 jacket - will the wider shoulders of the Hero give the chest a looser fit or does it only affect where the top of the sleeve starts?
- Is the collar larger on the Hero versus the Standard, or does it just sit off the neck more?
I feel like if I were to order a custom standard Raiders, I would request an extra inch of back length and an inch less for the sleeves (24" back length and 24" sleeves). Does that sound right based on the pics I posted? If I were to order a custom Hero instead, how would these measurements differ (on account of the wider cut shoulders, etc)k
Remember too that I'm 6 ft, and this jacket which hangs off my shoulders is 23.5" back length AND front storm flap length. I've added .5" to the "HF" sized jacket TN had.
First, I would email Wested and ask what their "standard" measurements are for a size 38 Hero jacket and a size 38 Raiders jacket are; they should supply you with chest measurement, waist measurement, front length of storm flap(may have to call this out to get), shoulders across the back, and half shoulder measurement.
From there, for the HERO jacket, you can gauge your back/front length measurements, and arm lengths. Since the jacket is supposed to be slightly wider then your shoulders, the arm length may need to be altered. Even though my jacket hangs off the shoulders, I still order my standard 26" arm length which hits my thumb knuckle, and leaves a small amount to accommodate for slight shrinking from creases, and possible soaking (if that's your thing).
I would also recommend advising Wested of your wanted waist measurements as well, depending on the "standard" of the pattern.
You can follow the same steps for the Raiders jacket, and adjust arm length, and back length accordingly to preference.
The Raiders jacket is an Indy style jacket with the some of the "details" of the film jacket, but made to fit like a normal jacket would. The Hero jacket is made to behave like it does in the film, and carry most of the details; hangs off the shoulders a little, pocket shapes, straps etc etc.
Tell Wested exactly what you want measurements wise; spec it out exactly. If I was ordering, I would tell them the following:
Jacket measurements:
- Chest width across
- Waist width across
- Back shoulders across
- Back length (from collar stand to bottom of the jacket)
- Front storm flap length
- Arm length
Send them these and they can help you get what your looking for.
Hope that helps out.
PS: I personally like any of my jackets to be more fitted, so my measurements help reflect that look. If I could change anything about my TN Raiders, I would make the back shoulders across and half shoulder a little bit smaller.
