I'm almost ready to order my first Wested , which should be like this:
- ToD model
- authentic goatskin
- cotton body/satin sleeves
- hidden press studs
- antique brass D-rings
- two inner pockets, one with zipper, one with press stud
I was wondering whether it is advised to order the jacket with an extended back length, since my curved spine tends to 'shorten' jackets at the back.
Also, should I add a few inches to my chest size since I want to be able to wear sweaters underneath the jacket in the winter?
Just explain in your email to Wested what you said here about your spine and let them decide whether to make it longer or not. The same goes with making it roomier to accommodate sweaters - tell Wested thats what you want and they will make it that way for you.
One thing you might not be aware of is that a standard cut Wested on many people appears longer in the back than in the front. A lot of guys including myself have ordered jacket with 1"-1.5" longer in the front so that from the side the jacket appears level. If you were to add to the back, even with a slightly curved spine, more than likely the jacket would have some fierce ride up in the front...
<Rixter nudges I.G. in the ribs> Posture! Posture!!!
I have a tailor’s worksheet I use, or is used by one of the better men's tailor shops around this area at least, and it’s labeled the A - X axis, which indicates the slope of your back to the center of your collar (7th vertebra of neck). I’d have a tailor measure if it is significant. Anything within the range of 3 to 5 inches is pretty normal and wouldn’t need any special correction to a garment I’m told. Besides, IMHO, I wouldn’t haphazardly be requesting measurements without at least consulting a tailor (if you haven't already,) or at least asking Peter before ordering. It’s an awful long time to wait to have a jacket made, and not be happy with it when it arrives and have to go through all the trouble to have it sent back to have more alterations done.
If the Wested jacket tends to ride up at the front, I'm probably safe with getting an unaltered size. Also, the ToD is longer than the 'standard' Raiders, so I think that will also affect the look of the jacket so that one wouldn't notice a slight difference in length at the front or back.
One more thing you might want to consider is leaving the press stud out on the inner pocket. I first opted for a press stud on mine that i recently ordered but changed my mind when I heard that it could bee seen on the outside of the leather after wearing the jacket for a while. This as I was told happened on a lamb one but I got the warning when talking about the goat too.
On the other hand, this is your jacket and you should probably do what you think will be the best and what you are happy with.
, which should be like this:
