(edited in the Main Hero differences and confirmed a sizing typo which has been corrected.)
Alrighty folks! Sorry for the wall of text but I’ve got some Christmas money burning a hole in my pocket so I've got some questions as I’ll be taking the BK Striated Lambskin plunge very soon.
I’ve an email in to Andy asking for the differences between Hawaiian/Iman vs. the Main Hero jacket. From this thread I’ve learned the Hawaiian/Iman's collar is pointier but which collar is bigger?
Yes we can make a Main Hero version. The Main Hero would have the following differences:
1. Rounded storm flap top (collar stand) left side
2. Alternate style collar with more rounded collar tips.
3. More gently scalloped pocket flaps.
My main question(s) is to anyone who might own a TN CS jacket and a BK Relic Hunter (Raiders) jacket or who can give a view on the fit between the two jackets or maybe between the two patterns is more appropriate.
This quote from Texan Scott is what I’m getting at.
Texan Scott wrote:One other interesting difference, is like the Wested Hero, the back length on this jacket is similiar. Like the film jacket, it is "blousy" in front. Usually I have to order a 26" in back length, but did not specify any changes to the Kelso and it is 24", so it must be that the pattern is cut differently than what we have ordered in the past?
How far should the shoulder seam fall off the shoulder? Half inch? A full inch?
It seems a Raiders jacket should be about an 1” below the belt? Does that sound right? My TN CS is closer to 3”.
Any other comments I should consider when sizing for a Raiders pattern? I’ll definitely be adding 1.5-2” onto the sleeves.
Andy at Bill Kelso has been excellent for replying to my multiple emails.
Things I’ve learned from Andy via emails that may be of use to some of you. Info is from the Oct. 2012, a couple of months ago. Always double check any information you may read here so you get it first hand from the vendor!.
1) Regarding measurements for sizes 46 and 48.
Size 46
A>B 24 1/2
C>D 25 1/2
E>F 22 1/2
G>H 8 1/4
I>J 24 1/2
K>L 22 1/4
M>N 26 1/4
Size 48
A>B 25
C>D 26 1/2
E>F 23 1/2
G>H 8 1/2
I>J 25
K>L 23
M>N 26 ½
2) My sizing is usually TALL. Is it possible to add extra length to the sleeves and body? If yes, would there be an extra fee and if so how much would it be?
Yes it's possible to make alterations. It's free up to 2 inches. From 2 inches and above there is an extra charge of eur 25.00
3) Is the striated lamb and grainy lamb the same weight? Would they both drape the same? Is there any difference in durability between the two?
The striated lamb and the grainy lamb are the same weight. The striated lamb drapes better. The draping is not only a matter of weight but a matter of finish too. The striated lamb is naturally dyed and maintains the natural texture of the leather which enables it to drape better. It's softer too. The grainy lamb is a little more durable as its fibers are more dense than the striated lamb. That said, any lambskin jacket caught in a sticking out nail will get torn.
4) Is the goatskin now available? I'm assuming it is substantially heavier than the two lambs and that would in turn affect the drape?
The goatskin is available. It's the same we use for the Navy M422 jackets you can see on our website.
It's a little heavier (0.2mm). It is grainy, strong, very durable and a little stiff. It drapes less than lambs but it could drape good after a lot of breaking in.
5) On your Relic Hunter webpage you have 18 pictures of the jacket posted. Could you please clarify which ones are striated vs. grainy lamb and which are dark brown vs authentic brown?
The first 11 photos is the dark brown. The rest are the authentic brown.
The dark brown is not currently available. It will be next year. The authentic brown is dark enough.
6) What I’m hoping for from one your lambs is a light weight jacket, basically a leather windbreaker that I could wear during spring and fall seasons. Based on that would you say one of the lambs would be cooler temperature wise or are they essentially the same? I assume a goatskin would be a warmer jacket?
Regarding warmth they are all the same. When wearing goatskin you have the impression that it is warmer because it is heavier. But actually not. There is the shell and the lining, no insulation. You can wear the lambskin easier during the summer months. Not because it's cooler but because it's lighter it's more comfortable.
Thanks for reading if you’ve made it this far, and for any input you may have.
Cheers and Happy Holidays!
Patrick