Help in figuring out model differences in Wested jackets!

[Canuck Digger]

Hello gang,
I usually hang out in the whip corner of our little club, but have been quietly sniffing around here for a while, trying to educate myself.

I've decided I would eventually like a Raiders jacket from Wested, but I am still a bit fuzzy on the differences between their Raiders, ROLA and Hero jackets. I know the hero has a slimmer cut, but how does that translate in real terms on larger sizes? I'm 6' 4" and weigh about 250 lbs. I would like a jacket that is probably a bit too long for die hard SA, but I want it to look good on me too. I don't want a baggy feel either but I need to fit into it too (49" chest...). I prefer very dark to lighter shades of brown and I like a tight grain over a lot of texture and big grain, so I am not sure if goat or lamb is the way to go.

I know these are all newb questions, and I do apologize to those who have heard these a thousand times before, and to them I say I really have done a lot of research but I am now at a point where I need to ask questions. In light of this, any and all help is welcome.
Cheers,


Franco

[Holt]

Raiders: Normal cut, wide chest, wide shoulders, normal sized sleeves.

ROLA: slim cut, slim chest, narrow shoulders, high armholes,

Hero: Movie jacket cut, fits like movie jacket would, big wide collar opening, droopy shoulder, higher armholes, not so wide chest

[whiskyman]

Just to illustrate: These are all standard off the peg size 40
Raiders


ROLA


Hero


The Raiders is (or at least was) not as long in the body as the ROLA and has inner facings on the zip.
The ROLA was a slightly slimmer fit - most noticeably the higher arm holes which reduce the "flying squirrel" effect.
The Hero is baggier than the ROLA but has the higher arm holes and also gussets under the arms. no inside facings and the much larger collar. The Hero has a short body and long arms as standard, so for my second jacket I requested a little more body length and a little less arm length. Maybe not as SA, but more comfortable on me.

[Canuck Digger]

Hiya, it's been a while!

Thank you so much, this is brilliant and very informative!!! I really appreciate all the work you did putting this together in such a comprehensive manner

I was wondering, in your experience and opinion, would the Raiders be able to develop those nice creases in the arms, or is it too baggy in the arms to do that, and by the same token, do you think a ROLA in the proper size and length would fit right someone like me, or is this really a case of you have to be rather slim in the chest to have it fit nicely?

What are your views on the dark goat vs dark lamb?
Cheers,


Franco

[whiskyman]

I don't know really about dark lamb versus dark goat as I've never had dark lamb. I've had authentic lamb before - it's a lighter weight jacket, but not as tough as the goat. Really depends on how tough you need your jacket to be - I don't like to baby mine.
My Raiders I had andwore the longest and the sleeves ended up looking like this.


At the moment my shrunken lamb is my favourite of all the hides I've owned as it feels tough, but marks quite easiloy and is quickly gaining a lot of character. In the pic above it was a week old. It looks like an old, well loved jacket now - after only about 6 weeks.

As for the Rola/Raiders - I didn't find there was so much difference in the chest. MAybe someone has one in your size and can give you measurements?

[Canuck Digger]

About the Hero collar... it never looked wide in the film to me... maybe it was opened all the way and draped over the shoulders a bit, but I just don`t get the wide collar thing... Am I really blind?

[Canuck Digger]

Thank you all!!

[youngjedi71]

other than length,leather texture and size of pockets, I wouldnt know one jacket from another. Im sure if you could handle them ALL you might could..

Same for the hats. They are all so close from movie to movie..other than raiders tight pinch

[Canuck Digger]

While we're on the topic, can anyone tell me the difference in size of the collars on various Wested jackets?
Thanks,

Franco

[Texan Scott]

THe Hero collar is probably the widest one. For me, the Hero pattern is an ultra slim fit in the sleeves and arm holes. For me, the RoLA jacket was a better fit, or you might also consider the Raiders pattern?

[CRB]

If this helps? The "Hero" is a copy of a copy, i.e. Peter obtained a copy of a TNO Raiders. The TNO Raiders is a copy of the hero jacket made by Neil Cooper and that currently resides in George Lucas' office and was one of two primary hero jackets made by Cooper under Steven Spielberg's direction and are a copy of a mock-up made by Western Costumes for Deborah Nadoolman before she went to the UK for production of Raiders. So, it's basis is that of the jacket worn by Ford in Raiders - which is better provenance than any other Wested?

One thing I don't get is, if the Hero is a direct copy of that TNO, how the collar is so large ? I have a TNO Indy1 and the collar is perfect on it - not the ridiculous oversize that the Hero collar is. My hero feels like Harry Hill. For those who don't know who Harry Hill is, he's a UK comedian who alwasy wears the same outfit:

[whiskyman]

The collar on my Novak wasn't so very different from my Wested- a little softer as it was lamb..

[Canuck Digger]

Okay to put it directly, is 3" a wide collar or is that normal?
Cheers,


Franco

[CRB]

I think the height of the collarstand is to considered too. Whiskyman - which is the Wested in your two photos ? I like the collar on the second one more.

[Canuck Digger]

Depends on the size of the jacket... There are no absolute direct answers to questions like that.

Okay to put it directly, is 3" a wide collar or is that normal?
Cheers,


Franco

Well say for a size 50 jacket (long)...

[Holt]

This is where it's best to ask the maker about what they think about collar/pocket size vs jacket size..

[whiskyman]

I think the height of the collarstand is to considered too. Whiskyman - which is the Wested in your two photos ? I like the collar on the second one more.

First pic is a Novak SL, second a Wested Hero in dark goat

[CM]

Depends on the size of the jacket... There are no absolute direct answers to questions like that.

Okay to put it directly, is 3" a wide collar or is that normal?
Cheers,


Franco

Well say for a size 50 jacket (long)...

Hi, I'd get a US WIngs if I were you. Very well made and great for a larger person like you. At your size, no jacket is going to look the same as the film jacket since Ford was a shorter, thinner man than you - which really changes the look.