All right, after spending days reading through this forum, I think I'm finally ready to order my first Wested. I want a screen accurate Raiders jacket.
That's what I plan to get:
- Style: Raiders
- Leather: Authentic lambskin
- lining: cotton body, satin sleeves (I know cotton silesia is authentic, but from what I have heard, cotton body and satin sleeves would be better)
- Side Fasteners: Black rectangular sliders; side straps attached with an x-box pattern
- nickel zips
- extra underarm gussets
- extra inside pocket
- no press studs
What do you think? Is there anything else I need to take care of? On Westeds homepage it says that the Storm Flaps standart width is 1.5 inches. Is that screen accurate or do I need to order a different with?
Thanks for you help!
Sounds great! But I think the nickel zips are no longer available. I believe Peter said that there are complications with ordering them, so he doesn't plan to use them anymore. It doesn't look like the Wested website has been updated, though, as it still lists the nickel zips as an option... I've also read in past posts that Peter says the originals made for Raiders actually had brass zips, but the brass was worn down & ended up looking silver-ish on-screen. Can anyone confirm that?
QuantumGirl wrote:All right, after spending days reading through this forum...
I've spent many hours over the last few days doing the exact same thing, and I've gotten so much helpful info to help me order my first Wested (hopefully in the next few days!). The funny thing is that I had no idea this forum existed a week ago, but now I can see myself hanging out here long after I get my jacket!
Anyway, I just wanted to drop a note to make sure that all of the experienced posters know that they are greatly appreciated!
While I can't confirm the speculation that the Raiders zipper was actually brass and not nickel, I can say that I remember reading in another post that Peter does not want to offer the nickel zip as an option anymore as it's hard to find the nickel zip with the right color (brown) tape, as it usually comes with black tape. I also believe the nickel zips are more expensive (I forget if this is due to the modification to brown instead of black tape or if they are simply more expensive to begin with.) Either way, I'd steer clear of the nickel. Unless you're using the jacket as a display piece only and not wearing it, I'd say brass would be better as it's more durable (I've seen a few pics of the nickel zips with missing teeth and such) and holds up better to frequent use. Otherwise I'd say all the other mods would be suitable. I believe the overall jacket design is improved (and a bit more accurate) over previous offerings. I have an older Wested (4 or 5 years old) and a newer Wested (only a few months old so far) and the improvements to the jacket are apparent in the newer version. Good luck!
I think you’re right. Last I heard Peter might not be too happy about the nickle zipper request, and it looks like he removed it from his options on his site.
PETER wrote:Please do not keep asking for a nickel silver zipper. They are so hard to get, The original was allunminiun painted antique brass and not nickel.
The problem with nickel zips is that with black tape is no problem but brown tape is a special order with a minimum quantity per length and we are talking 3 or 4 different lenghts according to size and heght is a pain.
You want alluminiun no problem but the nickel option is withdrawn.
On the bright side I have found a new tannery for the lambtouch cowhide plus a sample of HORSEHIDE do not rush me and the shirt and pants are nearly on the green light.
Watch this spot
Cheers
Peter
As far as the extra inside pocket, if you are ordering it with a zip, I would ask for it in a Nylon zipper. Also the press studs do not come on the Raiders Style anyway. And personally I think you made a wise choice on the lining. Just make sure to send him accurate measurements, it will save you a lot of grief in the long run and make sure you allow for the sleeve ride up or eventual bunching on the lambskin. Congrats, you’re in for one terrific jacket, and one agonizing wait.
Rixter wrote: Just make sure to send him accurate measurements, it will save you a lot of grief in the long run and make sure you allow for the sleeve ride up or eventual bunching on the lambskin.
So when I measure my arm from shoulder to the first nuckle of my thumb, I should add 1/2 inch for sleeve ride up?
If I were you, I'd give my measurements to Peter exactly. If you want additional length, let him determine it or ask for a specific amount to be added. If you fool with your measurements, and he puts his normal additions on you're in for a disappointment.
Also, if you're going for total screen accuracy, don't get an extra pocket. There was only one. And ask for it to be made without leather facings. The original lining was sewn into the zipper. However, the facings do make it easier for zipping and lessen the chances of snags.
If you already measured your sleeve length, to be on the safe side, I would just make a brief note for Peter that's where you measured to, but that you want to make sure it will allow for the ride up, he will know what to do. Some ppl just give him a bunch of measurements and don't tell him how they arrived at them or to where they measured. That also applies to whether you want to wear a sweater or heavy garment underneath, the armholes sometimes tend to be a little small if you don't tell him.
Or you could you what I did for my new Wested (as suggested on the Wested site). I measured the sleeve length of another leather jacket I have (not Wested but made of Lambskin) and noted this on the order form. The sleeves on mine came out great, they don't ride up but they aren't too long. If you have another leather jacket or any jacket with sleeves that fit you well, you might want to try this approach, just let Wested know that's how you measured.
When measuring the sleeves based on a shirt that fits well, where does the measurement start from? Is it the seam on the side of the shoulder? I went to a tailor & he measured from my spine to the first thumb knuckle, which I know isn't what Peter wants, so I'm going to measure the sleeve myself & I'm a bit nervous because of all this talk about it...
I'm not sure how to go about measuring on a shirt...my only experience has been with other jackets...however, if you're going to a tailor, I'd just take a peek at the directions on Wested's site and tell the tailor to measure you that way. Then let Peter know when you order that's how you were measured, and he'll make the adjustments as necessary.
As long as your tailor measured from the seventh vertebrae (the bony protrusion at the base of your neck between your shoulders), you should be alright as long as you make a note along side of it for Peter so he knows how the measurement was taken. Any good tailor should know how to adjust for this measurement. I would trust your tailors measurement more than I would taking it yourself on the basis of how a shirt fits. If you’d go strictly by the instructions given on Peter’s site, you wouldn’t be measuring from the shoulder to the first knuckle anyway, it would be to the cuff. If you ask me (and nobody did of course), the way your tailor did it, and the way mine does incidentally, makes for a more precise measurement for a number of different reasons if you really think about it. But, if you are that concerned, by all means go back to the tailor with the instructions Peter has on his site as GCR suggested rather than do it yourself.
Thanks for the help! My fiancee's mom measured me last night--her father used to make clothing & would help, so she knows how to do it. She came up with the same measurement as the tailor for the chest (37"), and then she did the sleeve Peter's way and got 26.5". That's 1.75 more than the 24.75" listed for a 42R (my size) on the Wested website--which makes sense, as the 26.5" was measured to the knuckle, not the cuff.
Basically, you're absolutely right in that I should make sure to tell them exactly how we measured everything. I'll also give the tailor's measurement of C7 to the knuckle (37"), and I'll tell them that all of these were done to the knukle to compensate for the ride-up, and ask what they think about it.
Anyway, now I feel good about everything & I'll probably order it on Monday or Tuesday! Thanks again so much!!
QuantumGirl wrote:where exactly is the first knuckle of the thumb?
On your picture, it's the one closest to the 'W' in "Which." It's the one closest to the wrist, not the one closest to the fingernail.
Some of the people on this forum have written that measuring to that first knuckle (as opposed to the wrist) will compensate for the inevitable "ride-up" that occurs when you raise your arms up away from your body & the jacket slides up your arm. I've experienced this with other jackets that were to the wrist & it can be pretty annoying. I also noticed that the coat I'm currently wearing for the winter comes down to that first knuckle of the thumb & I think it's very comfortable.
To make it even simpler, ...ehm, the metacarpophalangeal joint (first knuckle or MCPJ) of your thumb is the articulation between the convex metacarpal head proximally and the concave base of the first phalanx distally. In-other-words, it is the joint that is most easily seen in making a tight fist (boxing style with tip of thumb tucked in near palm) that most noticeably protrudes from said thumb. It can also be found by opening your hand in front of you with your thumb spaced apart from the rest of your fingers so that a ‘V’ is formed. Placing the index finger of your other hand directly in the crease that is made between your thumb and the index finger of your open hand that you have in front of you, it is the joint directly opposite of the tip of where you are pointing.
...or, as elstevo stated, it's the one closest to the wrist.
Eiti wrote:I hope you took care of the "back" of your Jacket !
I told them to change my order accordingly, but Peter e-mailed me that the back is standard on these jackets nowadays and can't be altered.
I got the right pocket placement though.
Curious, is it possible to order the inside pocket w/no leather, I have a Wested all ready and I'm thinking of ordering one w/no predistressing.
As far as sizing, mine needs some work any way so I'm thinking of sending it back and he'll have my jacket to go by. This next question has probably been asked and answered about many times I'm sure, but which leather was used for the Raiders jacket.
But first I needs me a whip!!
This next question has probably been asked and answered about many times I'm sure, but which leather was used for the Raiders jacket.
Well, the answer to that is easy. Just do a little looking around in past posts and you'll find the answer there, or simply look at the jacket section of the main site. The answer is right there in front of you.
Eiti wrote:I hope you took care of the "back" of your Jacket !
I told them to change my order accordingly, but Peter e-mailed me that the back is standard on these jackets nowadays and can't be altered.
I got the right pocket placement though.
I had specified pocket placement too as well as the extended zipper. I don't recall any mention of the collar. On the advice of one of the staff members, last Spring I had asked Peter to make my Wested Raiders collar no wider than 3 inches at the tip. That's the same collar size as the G & B Expedition and I believe it's a tad bit smaller than what comes on the standard Wested Raiders jacket.
I'm so happy 'cause I got my jacket today. Man, that was fast It's so awesome!!!!! I love it. Can't wait to wear it tomorrow. I'll try to get up some pics soon.
Which one is it?
It's the one closest to the wrist, not the one closest to the fingernail. 
I can't spare 'em, durn your hide! 
Regards. Michaelson
