Without the obvious Indy jacket or A-2 style jacket, what is important to you if you had to build one from scratch for your own adventures? Take into account looks as well as function and that we want it to last forever, so do not worry about triple-stitching or anything like that.
Jacket:
Leather: Goatskin or horsehide for toughness. Goat for warmer climates when the jacket can be packed in a small bag when not being used. I prefer horsehide, since in my opinion, once it is broken in, it is a truly personal jacket. I like the thickness and it ages beautifully and develops a nice “patina” although I generally despise this word for describing leather. Copper, yes. Leather, no…
Lining:
Cotton or a cotton/satin combo. Never all satin and definitely no flannel.
Color:
Dark brown or black. End of discussion, as there are no other choices.
Hem:
At best a plain hem – no elastic and no silly patterns. When you raise your arms and put them down, the jacket should not remain bunched around your waist/mid abdomen. If a waistband is necessary, a cloth waistband should be present. No elasticized leather waistbands as they are inferior-looking!
Length:
The jacket should be waist-length so you do not sit on it. 1-2 inches below the belt is perfect for me. If you can do a split, you should be able to do so while wearing a jacket and not having it in the way. For the record, I can not do a split.
Sleeves:
Open cuff (barrel cuff) or the ability via snaps or zipper to be open cuffs. I prefer a gusseted zipper cuff so it can be tightened to keep sand/snow out if necessary, but can be adjusted along the length of the zipper for personal comfort.
Pockets:
I am not picky about pockets. I prefer one inside pocket (no facings-nylon zipper if possible) and two exterior hand-warmer pockets. If the pockets are going to be used to store items, they should be used for small items only, since larger items can be carried in the MK VII bag, right? I like the look of the diagonal slit pockets, as it does not disrupt the lines of the jacket and allows it to drape better. A bonus would be a hidden zipper to keep valuables in and snakes out.
Collar: Yes! A generous shirt-style collar. Should be possible to flip up to keep the sand, snow and anything else the postal service worries about off your neck. No café-racer style collars for sure.
Hardware. Brass. Talon. Done.
Stormflap: Preferred, but not essential since most of the time my jackets are worn open…
Personal preferences.
Side straps are great if they are functional and tighten the jacket to a noticeable degree. Preferably to the point where they keep the jacket open comfortably when it is unzipped. Two on each side are ideal to customize the fit - one over the other about 2” apart. Sliders of some sort, not a belt with holes. The fit must be completely customizable and cannot depend on where someone decided to make holes.
Action pleats are not necessary but gusseted shoulders can help give freedom of arm movement over a wide range. Underarm gussets only if they add function to sleeves. The jacket should be form-fitting to the extent possible and preferably tapered from underarm to waist.
That is all I have...
What do you look for in an adventurer’s jacket??
Moderators: Indiana Jeff, Mike, Indydawg
Sorry to be so definite, but the perfect jacket for me (particularly in this climate) has already been made and around a long while, and that is simply the G-1 which is Dark Seal Goat, with it’s flip up mouton (lambs wool) collar with throat latch, large storm flap, large interior diagonal snap button map pocket near mid-chest for easy reach, recoiling bi-swing back and ventilated underarm gussets for lateral movement, two large exterior flap pockets, one with pencil pocket, large heavy duty brass zipper, and easily replaceable heavy knit sleeves and waistband to keep out the weather. Optional zip in thinsulate inning when needed. It might not be quite as stylish or as new a design as an Indy jacket, but I don’t see how it could be made any better, at least for me as far as functionality.