Someone in another thread asked about a jacket I was wearing. That thread wasn't the place for it, so I figured this would be a good place to show off a few of my favorites.
I started collecting vintage leather jackets a few years ago...and I obviously have some consistent taste, since (as my wife says) "they all look the same."
These two are my favorite.
This one is the one I was wearing in the other thread, which I was asked about.
It's a 1940s Monarch.
Got it practically NOS - never owned a vintage jacket this minty. Distressing came naturally, via me taking it on several tours with my band, including 3 weeks in Europe a couple of weeks ago. I've owned it about 2 1/2 years. No side straps, but the elastic on the waist in back is still nice and tight.
And I love the straps and buckles on the wrist.
My second favorite right now:
late 30s Calvin
Just picked this one up recently. The sleeves are a little short, but I'm trying to get used to it because I love everything else about it (especially the patina - perfect!). It's also a lot more lightweight than the Monarch, which makes it the tiniest bit justifiable for me to have bought. Plus, it's a lot shorter, and the sleeves are different. And it has side straps (though oddly, they don't match up with the belt - something I can only seem to find on mid to late 30s jackets, which is why I estimated the date as I have).
I'll try to take some nice daytime photos tomorrow if I have time - these are kind of crummy indoor/iPhone photos, which I had to fiddle with to make them not look like we put a bottle of Bubble Up in front of the camera.
They really are gorgeous jackets. I have 4-5 more, but the Calvin kind of did it for me enough that I'll be selling the others in LA this week.
I also have a WWII-era G2 that has seen better days, but I still love.
Havershaw, those are GORGEOUS... How GREEN is my ENVY?
Sincerest Congrats for having more than one Crown Jewel in your collection of Vintage Awesomeness!
That monarch is awesome. Is the stitching and all holding up pretty well? Also, what us the lining made of and how is it holding up?
I've looked at several vintage jackets on the bay but I've been a little nervous about those points without inspecting first hand.
Congrats on yours though!
Thanks Mitch! If it makes you feel better...I've probably gone through 10 - 15 other vintage jackets to find two this good. Or should I say - two that suit me so well.
I'm actually still a little on the fence about the Calvin. The arms are a little short on me, though it's only obvious (and slightly awkward to wear) when I'm really doing something active. But so far, in terms of short, belted-back leather jackets from that time period, it's pretty much what I have been searching for. (until I find something even better.)
The Monarch, however, I got lucky on - feels like it was tailored for me.
Hollwpond -
The liner in the Monarch was flawless. Some kind of shiny, quilted rayon deal, with the bottom left unattached to the jacket (fairly common, as I understand). As I say, I think it was NOS, as the liner didn't have one drop of wear to it. The quilted liner is a bit heavier, and it has 'hidden' knit cuffs, which I love. The Monarch, overall, is my slightly heavier leather jacket - usually doesn't come out until a little later in the fall (I do live in AZ, after all).
Sometimes the stitching on the quilting of the liner gets a little loose, and the tag has come a bit loose. But I've worn that one a LOT. The stitching on the overall jacket, however, is solid as a rock. I've never noticed anything coming loose or seeming unsolid.
I only got the Calvin a couple of weeks ago, and only worn it on one trip so far. Lining seems to be the same, but thinner - still quilted, but maybe less padding? It's dramatically lighter in weight than the Monarch (which was what I was looking for).
If you're looking for one eBay, the big thing I've had difficulty with is liners that are coming loose at the collar. Obviously, those only get worse and worse as time goes on. I have one jacket which is really cool, but it has the same type of quilted liner coming loose at the collar, and I don't know what the deal is exactly, but the untreated leather beneath sort of leaves weird leather particles on my clothes. Or actually, it might be fragments of the dark padding they used as part of the liner. But it leaves dark-colored debris on my shirts when I remove it, so that one doesn't get worn too often (it's being sold this week).
I have quite a few vintage jackets, mostly gabardine, and overall, the linings usually hold up pretty well, though on most of mine, after a few years, I've managed to tear them at the armpit, or somewhere in the sleeve. Not sure how or why that keeps happening to me, but I'm kind of rough on clothing, especially jackets. And it's usually with the rayon liners (which are also my favorite).
I often see those leather jackets with 'blanket' liners, usually plaid. Those seem pretty cool to me. I have yet to stumble across one in person in my size and price range, but I bet those would last well.
I constantly browse new leather jackets, and have come close to buying a few (and I do own a Todd's Standard)...but honestly, the patina and wear that vintage leather jackets have just can't be beat (for me). The Good Wear jackets all look amazing...but I could buy two vintage jackets for the price of one of theirs (and two REALLY nice ones, at that). Their jackets look gorgeous, accurate, and very well-made...but I don't have the budget for jackets like that. I keep my jackets $200 and under. For vintage jackets, it's tough to find them that cheap, but they do show up.
Case in point, to make some of you weep with jealousy: I happened upon the Monarch a few minutes after it was posted to eBay...with a Buy It Now of $120. Needless to say, I jumped on it instantly!
It's hard to find deals like that. But I did just see a super-nice Hercules horsehide jacket (which I only passed on because I thought it looked so simliar to the Monarch) which ended for $89 or something.
The deals are out there...just takes a lot of vigilance (and a patient wife).
And Whip Warrior, I actually almost posted something similar at the end of my post to make my thread title less misleading...!
Yep, lots of combing ebay can pay off with patience. I've passed up a few this past week, but some were pretty tempting...
The arms on the Calvin don't fit you as well, but yeah, that Monarch is pitch perfect on you.
Thanks, everyone!
indydawg, AWESOME avatar. I love Hammer Dracula films.
Yeah, I definitely have a 'wear it or sell it' philosophy when it comes to all my vintage stuff. If I haven't worn it in a while (or I've passed it up in the closet for something else too many times), then it hits eBay. I figure I'll never miss it if I've practically forgotten I own it.
For those of you clamoring for a Monarch repro, Good Wear makes this fine, fine jacket: http://www.goodwearleather.com/pages/ca ... ntura.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
actual photos: http://www.goodwearleather.com/pages/gw ... ages2.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
This would be pretty much my holy grail if I could find one in vintage. not exactly like the Monarch, but it's pretty close.
I do see vintage ones like that...but man, they are pricey. Once I in a while I save up a bunch of money and just decide to bite the bullet and spend a LOT of money to get my 'ultimate vintage jacket'...then I can't find anything even close, and after a few months, the money gets spent on something else. Figures.
Michaelson, I will try harder to gain some weight in the coming years. But thanks for your kind words.
And _, you've never heard of the G2? And here I thought you knew your jackets. G2 is a transitional model, manufactured between 1939 and 1941, sent out only to specially equipped squads of the...um...
Yeah, I'm an idiot. G1. I meant G1. It was late.
Is this how this jacket is suppose to fit? It looks way too small on their model. It seems like he should have gone one size up. That's why custom made is so nice. There just isn't one size fits most.
CM- I'm not sure. It's a little heavier than a lot of leather jackets I've owned - my G1, for example, is lighter than this (although that's goatskin). It's not that the leather is thick, just think the padding under the liner is in great condition and kind of thick (seems as padded coats get older, the padding gets worn thinner and thinner).
lantzn wrote:Is this how this jacket is suppose to fit? It looks way too small on their model. It seems like he should have gone one size up. That's why custom made is so nice. There just isn't one size fits most.
That's what many people consider to be the classic fit for a period jacket. But I agree with you, I like my jackets roomier. The roomier HF Indy jacket probably helped form our taste.
havershaw wrote:And _, you've never heard of the G2? And here I thought you knew your jackets. G2 is a transitional model, manufactured between 1939 and 1941, sent out only to specially equipped squads of the...um...
Yeah, I'm an idiot. G1. I meant G1. It was late.
You laugh, but the Coopers of the world claim there is such an animal. A complete fabrication on their part. Another way to sell something...
But NP...
Yes, that's the Indyish jacket with cargo pockets and leather squares on the elbows, isn't it? Any idea Pat about the origin of the pattern used by (amongst others) G&B for their Raider jacket?
havershaw wrote:
The liner in the Monarch was flawless. Some kind of shiny, quilted rayon deal, with the bottom left unattached to the jacket (fairly common, as I understand). As I say, I think it was NOS, as the liner didn't have one drop of wear to it. The quilted liner is a bit heavier, and it has 'hidden' knit cuffs, which I love.
I have an old jacket in my closet of undetermined age and maker (the label is missing) with the same quilted "shiny" liner and hidden knit cuffs. The front looks alot like your Monarch, but, the back is different. I wonder if it could be from the same maker?
Yes, that's the Indyish jacket with cargo pockets and leather squares on the elbows, isn't it? Any idea Pat about the origin of the pattern used by (amongst others) G&B for their Raider jacket?
kwad, the label on mine is the only thing that's coming undone - so it's possible.
_ - that's funny. I thought I was making up some preposterous story (and preposterous though it was, apparently I wasn't the only one to have thought of it).
I'm headed to LA tomorrow for a week, and I'll be hitting one of my favorite sellers of vintage leather jackets, so we'll see what I dig up there...I may have more to show you next week.
Yes, that's the Indyish jacket with cargo pockets and leather squares on the elbows, isn't it? Any idea Pat about the origin of the pattern used by (amongst others) G&B for their Raider jacket?
No, you're thinking of the G-8, dude..
Ah, just checked...The Raider is also called a G2. That's the jacket MacGyver wore and, I think, Kevin Costner in Field of Dreams. Is that a Neil Cooper creation?
They both have tags that say horsehide. I can't remember if the Monarch specifies anything further, but the Calvin says Front Quarter Horsehide. The Monarch might too, but I don't have it with me today.
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