New Morgan Question
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New Morgan Question
I just purchased a 10' david morgan whip and I was comparing it to my Joe Strain Whip.
It appears that the leather at the knob of the DM whip is a bit loose. Not all of the leather, just the leather strips at the very bottom of the knob. (Is there a way I can fix this). Plaiting seems a bit loose. Also I can see some white like material in between some of the knob's leather, not much, but noticable to me. Does this matter? My STrain whip does not have this problem, the leather on the knob is tight, and I mean tight.
I'm going to try and post some pictures.
It appears that the leather at the knob of the DM whip is a bit loose. Not all of the leather, just the leather strips at the very bottom of the knob. (Is there a way I can fix this). Plaiting seems a bit loose. Also I can see some white like material in between some of the knob's leather, not much, but noticable to me. Does this matter? My STrain whip does not have this problem, the leather on the knob is tight, and I mean tight.
I'm going to try and post some pictures.
- Sergei
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That happened to me as well. Ocassionally they get loose and then you want to make sure that it doesn't unravel. Like was mentioned above, I used a *little* crazy glue underneath the lace to cement it in place. Make sure to avoid applying leather conditioner on any of the knots. The oils from your hands are sufficient to keep the one knot on the end sufficiently conditioned.
If it really starts to get unraveled, I would call DM to arrange for a redo on that TurksHead knot.
-Sergei
If it really starts to get unraveled, I would call DM to arrange for a redo on that TurksHead knot.
-Sergei
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I agree with The Edge, before trying any home remedies contact David Morgan and co. and voice your concerns. You should be completely satisfied with your purchase.
The others are correct though, this is a fairly common occurrence. It’s hard to get those strands to stay tight on that rounded surface all on their own. Usually it’s no big deal and a little glue will do the trick. Hope this helps
Dan
The others are correct though, this is a fairly common occurrence. It’s hard to get those strands to stay tight on that rounded surface all on their own. Usually it’s no big deal and a little glue will do the trick. Hope this helps
Dan
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Morgan turkshead
If it's a new Morgan whip, I'd return it. You didn't mention that if you purchased it new or used.
If it's new I wouldn't try to do anything. I don't believe I'd use SuperGlue either. I'd use a leather cement, if I was going to do that. Not sure how safe SuperGlue would be with kangaroo is my main concern.
Oily hands? Sweaty maybe, not oily unless I just changed my oil, then I do have a mess. The turksheads and handles are leather. Leather does dry out, so I would very, very minimally condition the leather on the handle area.
Joe Strain makes extrmely tight whips. He definitely knows tight. No gaps, no looseness, no floppy whip syndrome.... Joe is a great whipmaker. Hard to compare anyone to or with him.
Send the Morgan back or send it to Joe Strain to make it really right.
If it's new I wouldn't try to do anything. I don't believe I'd use SuperGlue either. I'd use a leather cement, if I was going to do that. Not sure how safe SuperGlue would be with kangaroo is my main concern.
Oily hands? Sweaty maybe, not oily unless I just changed my oil, then I do have a mess. The turksheads and handles are leather. Leather does dry out, so I would very, very minimally condition the leather on the handle area.
Joe Strain makes extrmely tight whips. He definitely knows tight. No gaps, no looseness, no floppy whip syndrome.... Joe is a great whipmaker. Hard to compare anyone to or with him.
Send the Morgan back or send it to Joe Strain to make it really right.
- Sergei
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Oily hands? I do , many do and I don't have to change the oil in my car. ) But don't believe me.
As to whether this whip is new, I would agree send it back. My impression it wasn't. I have used the "crazy glue" technique several times, on the knot work on the end of the handle. It works just fine. BTW, I heard that tip from another whip maker.
Your Oily Handed Friend,, ) )
-Sergei
Ops... Better not touch those CD's:Fingerprint Facts
Why do people leave fingerprints.
The sweat glands in the skin of your finger tips produce a water based oil solution that coats the ridges of your print. These ridges retain a portion of this solution such that when the finger makes contact with a surface, a residue is left behind which is a facsimile of your print (i.e., laten print). It is this characteristic which gives SENSE Holdings Inc.™ biometric devices the ability to electronically scan and analyze your print.
I agree all the knots are made out of leather and they need to be conditioned now and then. But where I disagree, is the amount of conditioning is much different for the rest of the parts of the whip. Over conditioning knots will just eventually loosening them [EXCEPT FOR A JOE STRAIN KNOT] ). I have talked about this with David Morgan, Paul Stenhouse and even heard Mike Murphy mention it during his whip care seminar at the last WWAC he attended.Fingerprints
For the best sound quality, a disk should be free of fingerprints as they can affect its playability. The CD system works by reflecting laser light and skin oil is partially reflective. Fingerprint oil will reflect the laser light back to the photodetectors before it reaches the aluminum stamping. This will cause lost data or a weak signal. Both of these things will cause mistracking, loss of sound quality and other errors. (see cleaning instructions)
Always, when handling the disk remember to hold it only by the unencoded edge or by placing a finger in the central hole.
As to whether this whip is new, I would agree send it back. My impression it wasn't. I have used the "crazy glue" technique several times, on the knot work on the end of the handle. It works just fine. BTW, I heard that tip from another whip maker.
Your Oily Handed Friend,, ) )
-Sergei
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Thanks for the info Sergi, I found that interesting and wise choice Dakota,
the squeaky wheel gets oiled, sorry had to say that.
I to in the past have used crazy glue, along with the leather cement on different occasions, I liked the crazy glue better because it only took about a minute to dry, as opposed to the 15 minutes it took with the leather cement holding it in place.
I have a question,
has anybody ever tried using clear shoe polish on the knots?
I've used a light coat on my Morgan whip in the past and then buffed it to a shine ''gently'' I never had a problem with the knots loosening (knock on wood) as of yet and the whip is now close to 8 years old or more.
All the best.
Jim J.
the squeaky wheel gets oiled, sorry had to say that.
I to in the past have used crazy glue, along with the leather cement on different occasions, I liked the crazy glue better because it only took about a minute to dry, as opposed to the 15 minutes it took with the leather cement holding it in place.
I have a question,
has anybody ever tried using clear shoe polish on the knots?
I've used a light coat on my Morgan whip in the past and then buffed it to a shine ''gently'' I never had a problem with the knots loosening (knock on wood) as of yet and the whip is now close to 8 years old or more.
All the best.
Jim J.
- Sergei
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You are a punny guy!racerx wrote:Thanks for the info Sergi, I found that interesting and wise choice Dakota,
the squeaky wheel gets oiled, sorry had to say that.
That's been my experience as well. Just for the readers reading along here, you dab the cement behind the lace and just a small dab does it. Properly done, you don't see a thing but a solidly anchored knot. It's been about 3 years for one of my whips where the knot was slipping on the end and now it's still safely secured. But I made a judgement call, it was loose but not to the point of unraveling.racerx wrote: I to in the past have used crazy glue, along with the leather cement on different occasions, I liked the crazy glue better because it only took about a minute to dry, as opposed to the 15 minutes it took with the leather cement holding it in place.
I have heard that too! You mean "neutral" color? Yeah, I have known people to use brown shoe polish as well to get that distressed look. But I never bothered to use anything other than Pecards.racerx wrote: I have a question,
has anybody ever tried using clear shoe polish on the knots?
I've used a light coat on my Morgan whip in the past and then buffed it to a shine ''gently'' I never had a problem with the knots loosening (knock on wood) as of yet and the whip is now close to 8 years old or more....
Jim J.
Take Care...
-Sergei
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I don’t blame you for being a bit anxious Dakota, but DM stands by their work and should be able to help you out.
I treat both the handles and knot work a bit differently then the thong and falls. While I have heard that the natural oils in ones skin is usually enough for the handle and knots, on rare occasions I like to do a quick wipe on wipe off with a little bit of leather dressing. I also use a lil shoe polish on the knots from time to time. It’s been my experience though, that with the knot work and even the plaited handles less is more, you want to keep them tight to avoid any slippage. In addition, if your going to use a shoe polish make sure you use a good quality one, match the color tone as best as possible and avoid any that one that may contain any harsh chemicals or salts.
Dan
I treat both the handles and knot work a bit differently then the thong and falls. While I have heard that the natural oils in ones skin is usually enough for the handle and knots, on rare occasions I like to do a quick wipe on wipe off with a little bit of leather dressing. I also use a lil shoe polish on the knots from time to time. It’s been my experience though, that with the knot work and even the plaited handles less is more, you want to keep them tight to avoid any slippage. In addition, if your going to use a shoe polish make sure you use a good quality one, match the color tone as best as possible and avoid any that one that may contain any harsh chemicals or salts.
Dan