Indy-esque Cotton Jacket

fenris · Post by **fenris** » Thu May 05, 2011 12:39 am

I had a tailor custom make me an Indy style jacket in cotton. I may need to return it for alterations because of the fit... Also, something about the pocket placement looks wrong.

Here are some pics:

Should I have them move the left (wearer's left) pocket further to the center? What do you think?

I may also have them shorten it an inch and have 'em make the overall body shape a "V" because it looks too baggy at the end.

Post by **Indiana Jeff** » Thu May 05, 2011 3:26 am

Cool idea!

The left pocket does look slightly farther away from center than the right, but I don't think enough to worry about. It's barely noticeable with the jacket laying flat like that, I'm sure you can't tell at all when wearing it.

Hm, I'm going to have to check out a few of my local tailors....

Regards,

Indiana Jeff

fenris · Post by **fenris** » Thu May 05, 2011 4:07 am

I forgot to mention that I had this made VERY CHEAP! The need for alterations is partly my fault (except for the off-looking left pocket); I asked them to make the length longer, but never thought on how un-Indy it would look.

I didn't tell them put in a liner because it's a heavy fabric as it is... probably comparable to Wested's cotton. I actually picked out the fabric.

tekors · Post by **tekors** » Thu May 05, 2011 4:29 am

Looks nice Fenris,
nice idea

It seems too long indeed but a tailor can take care of it and do some adjustements.

fenris · Post by **fenris** » Thu May 05, 2011 4:36 am

...and because it's not leather, I don't have to worry about leaving holes if I decide to move the left pocket.

My problem with the pocket is it's actually the same distance from the sides and the zipper... but when you look at it with the storm flap, it looks off.

I'm gonna ask my wife to take pics with me wearing it so you guys can tell me what exactly is off with the fit. I can't really put my finger on it.

Illinois James · Post by **Illinois James** » Thu May 05, 2011 4:51 am

I'd really like to have an Indy-style jacket in khaki-tan, preferably made of waterproof gabardine like raincoat material, but light cotton drill would be nice for when it's a little warmer in sunlight or you don't want to look like you're wearing a costume with your fedora! You found a skilled tailor! He should be able to dial that in for you.

fenris · Post by **fenris** » Thu May 05, 2011 5:06 am

Illinois James wrote:I'd really like to have an Indy-style jacket in khaki-tan, preferably made of waterproof gabardine like raincoat material, but light cotton drill would be nice for when it's a little warmer in sunlight or you don't want to look like you're wearing a costume with your fedora! You found a skilled tailor! He should be able to dial that in for you.

And it actually only took him 3 days to finish... not bad for $47 (all in: labor, fabric snaps, d-rings, etc...). Alterations only take him a couple of hours.

CM · Post by CM » Thu May 05, 2011 5:33 pm

Cool. Pocket placement looks like some Wings jackets I've seen. The pocket by the windflap should be around 3 cm from that flap - in other words much closer to it.

I think the pocket flap should be deeper - at least 3 inches in the middle.

Bigfoot · Post by **Bigfoot** » Thu May 05, 2011 6:27 pm

Looks great to me

, this would be great in waxed cotton, like the Filson jackets.

Chris · Post by **Chris** » Thu May 05, 2011 7:18 pm

That is a great idea! I'd never have thought of that. Now I'm getting some ideas. Thanks!

fenris · Post by **fenris** » Thu May 05, 2011 8:26 pm

Question with this jacket style...

Does the body of the jacket really flare out and go up whenever you raise your arms sideways? It's kinda irritating...

Kevin Anderson · Post by **Kevin Anderson** » Thu May 05, 2011 8:51 pm

Only if the armholes are too big and the chest is too wide.
Which is pretty much the style, especially on the Last Crusade jacket.

fenris · Post by **fenris** » Thu May 05, 2011 8:57 pm

Kevin Anderson wrote:Only if the armholes are too big and the chest is too wide.
Which is pretty much the style, especially on the Last Crusade jacket.

Yeah... I feel that the jacket is too wide and the armholes near the armpits need to be a little smaller.

Illinois James · Post by **Illinois James** » Fri May 06, 2011 12:28 am

Yes, yes. Waxed cotton or oilskin like an outback duster with no liner would be nice for summer rains!

fenris · Post by **fenris** » Fri May 06, 2011 12:32 am

Here's what it looks like worn:

Front:

I know it looks as if one side is longer... But no, it isn't. I just didn't adjust how it sat on my shoulders as I wasn't in front of a mirror.

Back:

When I raise my arm to the side:

It feels long, but it is only 2-inches below my belt line... maybe it's my short arms.

This is the first time I put it on wearing pants. The first time I tried it on it looked really big probably because I was just in my boxers...

How does it look? Do I still need to have it altered?

whiskyman · Post by **whiskyman** » Fri May 06, 2011 12:35 am

I rather like it - a little long, but otherwise pretty cool looking.

fenris · Post by **fenris** » Fri May 06, 2011 1:13 am

Correction, it's 3-inches below the belt line. I'd really like to take an inch off; but that means removing the zippers and leaving holes where the snaps used to be.

Post by **Michaelson** » Fri May 06, 2011 10:34 pm

It looks like Temple of Doom length to my eye.

VERY VERY nice jacket. For the price, you knocked one out of the park in my personal opinion.

An extra inch off would be good, but for the problems it would cause, I'd say leave well enough alone.

Save a few bucks for the future and get a second one made with that alteration. Considering the price, that should be simple. You then can use this one as a backup jacket.

Just a thought.

Regards! Michaelson

Dunross76 · Post by **Dunross76** » Sat May 07, 2011 12:53 am

Very nice jacket. It has this relaxed Indy jacket look. I love it.

fenris · Post by **fenris** » Sat May 07, 2011 1:05 am

Michaelson wrote:It looks like Temple of Doom length to my eye.

VERY VERY nice jacket. For the price, you knocked one out of the park in my personal opinion.

An extra inch off would be good, but for the problems it would cause, I'd say leave well enough alone.

Save a few bucks for the future and get a second one made with that alteration. Considering the price, that should be simple. You then can use this one as a backup jacket.

Just a thought.

Regards! Michaelson

Good idea... I might have 'em make me another one with a slightly lighter fabric (which could mean it would be cheaper). The one I chose is a little on the heavy side.

On another note, they can even replicate the pants and shirt. And that would probably cost around $18 each at most (just an estimate, since I don't know how much fabric will be needed, I think I overestimated the cost of fabric).

The place I get it done is complete in terms of tailoring needs. From fabrics (wool, cotton, silk, satin, etc), to buttons and other stuff. It's actually setup like a big open marketplace (think streets of Cairo... only more modern) where all your tailoring needs can be met (suits, gowns, costumes, etc).

-------------

I started distressing the jacket by using sanding paper and washed it in hot water yesterday. To get the faded wrinkles look on the arms, I had to wear it while sanding the parts of the wrinkles that are raised. Sanded the parts on the elbows, but not too much. For some reason, my distressing doesn't show up in pictures. I probably have to take pictures of it in natural light (meaning outdoors) for it to be seen.

...now how do I distress the D-rings? They're too shiny! I sanded 'em with 2000grit to dull 'em a bit, but that really didn't work.

kwad · Post by **kwad** » Sat May 07, 2011 1:32 am

Fenris, It looks good

If you could get them to make you reasonably accurate Indy pants for $18, you could make a lot of money around here (after the mark-up, of course!

)

fenris · Post by **fenris** » Sat May 07, 2011 8:09 am

kwad wrote:Fenris, It looks good

If you could get them to make you reasonably accurate Indy pants for $18, you could make a lot of money around here (after the mark-up, of course! )

Nice idea, but I don't want to compete with the other vendors here.

But that's the going rate for pants, assuming that the amount of fabric that will be used will only be 2.5 yards per pants. Pretty cheap if you think about it... and that's just for one order. I'm sure a discount can be worked out if one orders in bulk.

Probably when I'm really down and out... I'd consider it. Hahaha!

Right now, I'd really like to know how to make the D-rings look old...

Chewbacca Jones · Post by **Chewbacca Jones** » Sun May 08, 2011 4:36 pm

Love that jacket, Fenris. I've wanted something like that since I got into this hobby, but at the prices I've seen...

You got a great deal!

fenris · Post by **fenris** » Sun May 08, 2011 11:51 pm

Chewbacca Jones wrote:Love that jacket, Fenris. I've wanted something like that since I got into this hobby, but at the prices I've seen... You got a great deal!

I know what you mean. I think the Wested cotton costs almost double (or more, can't remember) when I add shipping to the price.

Texan Scott · Post by **Texan Scott** » Mon May 09, 2011 6:29 pm

Marco, you did a good job for the first jacket. Just to mention a few tweaks in case you want to fine tune or get another in the future: storm flap should most likely be 1 1/4" for you, it could be a tad long by 1 1/2" ~2", straps are achored near the middle of the pocket (lower 1/3 for Last Crusade), collar ends at the middle of the storm flap, I agree with others-wider pocket flaps and rounded scollups, pockets are anchored ~1" either side of storm flap, no visible snaps on storm flap, arm hole diameter doesn't look that bad at all but you may need gussets if they were not installed? (Sleeve seams and yoke seam is mis-aligned, but once the jacket is shortened, the collar-yoke-back length will all fall into place). Sleeve length, yoke and collar looks right on.

fenris · Post by **fenris** » Mon May 09, 2011 10:33 pm

Texan Scott wrote:Marco, you did a good job for the first jacket. Just to mention a few tweaks in case you want to fine tune or get another in the future: storm flap should most likely be 1 1/4" for you, it could be a tad long by 1 1/2" ~2", straps are achored near the middle of the pocket (lower 1/3 for Last Crusade), collar ends at the middle of the storm flap, I agree with others-wider pocket flaps and rounded scollups, pockets are anchored ~1" either side of storm flap, no visible snaps on storm flap, arm hole diameter doesn't look that bad at all but you may need gussets if they were not installed? (Sleeve seams and yoke seam is mis-aligned, but once the jacket is shortened, the collar-yoke-back length will all fall into place). Sleeve length, yoke and collar looks right on.

Hehe... To tell you the truth, I have no idea what you just said.

I haven't really absorbed all the terms in the Jacket section. What's a yoke and gusset? I'm a real newbie to jackets.

Post by **Indiana Jeff** » Tue May 10, 2011 2:55 am

The yoke is the seam that runs across the back of the jacket at the shoulders.

Gussets are sort of pleats in the arm pit of the jacket that gives more range of motion without the jacket punching up or pulling. Some leather Indy jackets have them, others don't. I have a Wested and a US Wings Legend and neither have gussets.

Regards,

Indiana Jeff

fenris · Post by **fenris** » Tue May 10, 2011 8:03 am

Indiana Jeff wrote:The yoke is the seam that runs across the back of the jacket at the shoulders.

Gussets are sort of pleats in the arm pit of the jacket that gives more range of motion without the jacket punching up or pulling. Some leather Indy jackets have them, others don't. I have a Wested and a US Wings Legend and neither have gussets.

Regards,

Indiana Jeff

Thanks Jeff!

So that's the yoke!

You got any sample pics of a gusset(s)? Still can't quite picture it in my head...

Post by **Michaelson** » Tue May 10, 2011 8:12 am

They are the 'lips' looking items in the armpit of the jacket, as seen in the photo above.

Regard! Michaelson

fenris · Post by **fenris** » Tue May 10, 2011 8:17 am

Ohhhhh.... now I understand. For some reason when I hear the word "gusset" I picture something else entirely... when I first heard it I thought it was some sort of brass stud or something. Dunno why, but that's what I was picturing in my mind the whole time. Hahaha!

Post by **Indiana Jeff** » Tue May 10, 2011 8:19 am

M was just a hair quicker on the trigger. Posting a picture ironically.

I found this thread. There's a picture at the bottom of page one that's a close-up of the gusset.

http://indygear.com/cow/viewtopic.php?f ... ion+gusset" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Oh, as a correction, I think technically the entire panel of material that's above the seam is called the yoke, but when people refer to a 'high' or 'low' yoke they are referring to the placement of the seam that defines the bottom of the panel.

Regards,

Indiana Jeff

Post by **Michaelson** » Tue May 10, 2011 8:31 am

Yep, the power of the 'search' function.....

Regards! Michaelson

Texan Scott · Post by **Texan Scott** » Tue May 10, 2011 6:53 pm

...lips just looking for a face!

There are two back panels on an Indy jacket. You might say that the yoke is the panel above the lower back panel. It is connected to the bottom of the collar stand, right and left front panels and sleeves. Think of Atlas.

fenris · Post by **fenris** » Tue May 10, 2011 11:11 pm

I wonder if it's hard to have gussets put in my jacket...

The tailor said that it would be hard to take an inch (or 2) off the jacket length. He'd have to remove all the bottom snaps and the zipper and moving the pocket might damage the fabric due to how the stitch they used to lock it into place was made.

Any tailors out there who can chime in if it really is indeed a difficult task? As I am not a tailor, my thinking was just cut off the extra length and move everything accordingly.

Post by **Indiana Jeff** » Wed May 11, 2011 2:19 am

I'd trust your tailor. If he says it'll be hard to make the changes, it'll be hard. Of course, he's also in the business of selling you another jacket so....

Seriously, if you want to add underarm gussets (which means taking the sleeves off the body to fit the gussets in), shorten the jacket (which means rehemming the bottom, changing out the zipper and replacing the snaps), and move the pockets; I think you'll be best served having a new jacket made to the new specs you want. They're basically going to have to completely take the current jacket apart to make the changes you want. And I think you will see traces of the old pocket placement. You can't remove that many stitches without leaving some traces.

Heck, depending on the sizing of this 'prototype' jacket, I'd be interested in buying it and that'll free you up to get your finalized jacket made.

Regards,

Indiana Jeff

Post by **Michaelson** » Wed May 11, 2011 8:52 am

Well said, Jeff!

Regards! Michaelson

Texan Scott · Post by **Texan Scott** » Wed May 11, 2011 9:05 am

The flip side is that if the arm holes are small enough in diameter already, that is-the jacket doesn't "ride up" too much, then you would not necessarily need gussets. Gussets just help to create more freedom of movement (FOM). This is one of the features that seperates the Raiders jacket from the LC jacket is that the LC jacket's armholes (typically, generalizing) are larger in diameter, so that when you lift your arms, the jacket tends to ride up. Because the Raiders jacket was custom made for a slim fit, the arm holes and sleeves tend to be more form fitting.

This jacket was meant to be used and enjoyed and since we are not creating a jacket for a movie or anything,

I would not get too bogged down in the details...as some of us do from time to time, etc....

....not that anyone actually DOES that!

fenris · Post by **fenris** » Wed May 11, 2011 10:43 pm

I've already worn it in the rain... more like a drizzle, really.

Well, we had this freak storm last weekend. My family and I were on our way to the mall. Since the place was packed (no more parking in the carpark building), I decided to just drop them off and find a parking place beside the mall. It was already raining at the time. So I wore the jacket and my fed... as soon as I stepped out of the car, the pouring rain became just a drizzle. When I got to the mall, the downpour began!

As the storm was getting worse we all got kinda worried, so I decided to get the car and fetch them. Again, as I got out the mall... what once was a torrent of rain became a drizzle.

At least the weather did give me an excuse to wear the jacket... it's actually summer over here. One more month of summer, then the real rains come!

fenris · Post by **fenris** » Thu May 12, 2011 4:40 am

I finally decided to let a tailor shorten the jacket. Since their concern is having to remove and re-attach the zipper, I just looked for a way to modify the existing zipper. Apparently, you can pull off the teeth and end tabs and reinstall new ones (or use the old ones if they haven't been screwed up from removal). I just hope I don't screw up with the zipper... worst case is I won't be able to close it, which isn't really a big deal for me.

ajocampo · Post by **ajocampo** » Thu May 12, 2011 10:52 am

What does that jacket feel like? I gues it feels like a heavy shirt?

fenris · Post by **fenris** » Thu May 12, 2011 12:31 pm

ajocampo wrote:What does that jacket feel like? I gues it feels like a heavy shirt?

It feels like a typical denim jacket I guess... Although my other denim jacket is much more lighter. This has considerable heft to it.

fenris · Post by **fenris** » Thu May 12, 2011 12:35 pm

Michaelson wrote:

Hmmmm... if a jacket in goat skin has this... would this be considered "goat lips"?

Post by **Michaelson** » Thu May 12, 2011 12:36 pm

Actually, they've been referred to as 'Mick Jagger lips' for years!

Regards! Michaelson

fenris · Post by **fenris** » Thu May 12, 2011 8:28 pm

Hahaha!

Now I keep imagining his face smack dab on a jacket's armpit area!

fenris · Post by **fenris** » Mon May 16, 2011 12:17 am

Just got the jacket back from the tailor (a different one) who's just walking distance from where I live (around 2 blocks or less). It looks better now. It's more Indy-esque now.

fenris · Post by **fenris** » Mon May 16, 2011 5:48 am

Here's what it looks like now...

Watcha guys think?

Post by **Indiana Jeff** » Mon May 16, 2011 5:59 am

Looked good before, looks great now.

Regards,

Indiana Jeff

Illinois James · Post by **Illinois James** » Mon May 16, 2011 8:35 am

Looks great, man!

Texan Scott · Post by **Texan Scott** » Mon May 16, 2011 9:07 am

Looks better, Marco. Perfect length. The Indy jacket was designed as a belt length jacket, due to the gun and whip. How much of the material did he cut off?

fenris · Post by **fenris** » Mon May 16, 2011 9:17 am

Thanks, guys!

@TS: I think I had the tailor take off around 1.5 to 2 inches. Not sure. I just eyed it and marked it with tailor's chalk.