Another Wested ToD

Zoltar · Post by **Zoltar** » Sun Apr 10, 2011 6:13 pm

Wested ToD's seem to be flavour of the month, here's my new addition to the stable in Authentic Brown Goat.

ZOLTAR

Indiana Dymond · Post by **Indiana Dymond** » Sun Apr 10, 2011 6:16 pm

Looking good buddy,must get some pics of mine done

Kevin Anderson · Post by **Kevin Anderson** » Sun Apr 10, 2011 6:59 pm

Nice! What size is this Zoltar?
I'd prefer a bit more sleeve and front length, seems to sit a bit lower at the back.
I remember mine did the same. It would probably even out in time though.

Post by **Holt** » Sun Apr 10, 2011 7:31 pm

awesome. I'm getting mine very soon.

tomek9210 · Post by **tomek9210** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 2:51 am

The sleeves are perfectly wrinkled, just like in the last scene of TOD. They could be a little longer, though. What have you done to achieve this look?

Strider · Post by **Strider** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 3:22 am

Is it just me, or do the pockets look really far away from the storm flap? I'm just sitting here going: "Dude."

Zoltar · Post by **Zoltar** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 8:23 am

Size 40
Sleeves 25.5”
Back 26”

The sleeves are just set with warm water and pushed up above the elbow and worn for hours until pretty much dry. Got some funny looks at work sat in a leather jacket on the first hot (for UK!) day of the year but I couldn’t wait to get home to get started!

I added an extra 1.25” to the sleeve length over what I’m happy with on my Raiders knowing I’d be pushing extra wrinkles up into the upper arm. On first fitting they pretty much came down to my knuckles I thought I’d made a big mistake but those wrinkles eat up sleeve length in a big way! The sleeves are pretty stiff with the wrinkles acting like a spring, as the goat breaks they’ll relax a bit and I’ll get some length back so I’ve no concerns on how they look right now.

Pocket placement seem’s fine to me, pretty much evenly spaced from the stormflap on both sides when zipped up. Check out photo’s of the Noel Howard jacket this is copied from and it looks about right to me

.

Everything else seam’s to measure up as I expected, I think again the front’s just hanging weird because the goat’s a bit on the stiff side, look at how the collars sticking out for an Idea of the stiffness! I think thing’s will even out just fine as the leather breaks and starts to drapes more freely.

ZOLTAR

Kt Templar · Post by **Kt Templar** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 8:45 am

Strider wrote:Is it just me, or do the pockets look really far away from the storm flap? I'm just sitting here going: "Dude."

Matches mine that was made a couple of years ago. Picture taken today.

Zoltar · Post by **Zoltar** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 8:58 am

It'd be helpful to see it zipped? thx!

More Photo's coming soon, these were more of a rush out at the first chance with a less than enthusiatic missus behind the lens.

tekors · Post by **tekors** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 9:17 am

Great jacket Zoltar

beautiful colour... I have a goatskin wested raiders and i am just loving the leather.. after it breaks in it's amazing..
enjoy your ToD

cheers
teko

Kevin Anderson · Post by **Kevin Anderson** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 9:40 am

I'm usually very picky with this sort of thing, but I think the pocket placement looks fine.
When I was getting my Magnoli TOD made, I had all sorts of measurements written up for where I thought the pockets should be placed.
Zoltars looks pretty right to me.
I've owned a washed goat Raiders from Wested very briefly; it felt quite thick. How does the regular goat compare to the washed in thickness/heaviness
I wonder? I was going to get lamb if I go ahead with another TOD, now I'm leaning towards this goat hide. Looks very good.

Post by **Holt** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 9:56 am

looks perfect to me.

original

Post by **Holt** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 10:25 am

lol.

you could wear it as a glove

nicktheguy · Post by **nicktheguy** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 11:13 am

I know the pockets on the TOD were smaller - but they really do look smaller. How much smaller are they than the ROTLA and LC jackets?

Indiana Dymond · Post by **Indiana Dymond** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 12:18 pm

Zoltar wrote:Size 40
Sleeves 25.5”
Back 26”

ZOLTAR

Can't belive it Andy we both ordered the same size

nicktheguy my pockets are 6" tall x 5.5" wide the flap is 3" at center line

Kt Templar · Post by **Kt Templar** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 12:23 pm

Ditto on the pocket size.

My jacket is a 40 (V Short!)

Indiana Dymond · Post by **Indiana Dymond** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 12:32 pm

No fear of the hand warmer pockets ever coming loose as you can't get a your hands in the things

I went for a extra inside pocket so I'd have room to put things

.

Hey KT what hide is that in your jacket?

Kt Templar · Post by **Kt Templar** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 2:26 pm

Indiana Dymond wrote: Hey KT what hide is that in your jacket?

That's a washed goat, it's just been conditioned so it's buttery soft.

CM · Post by CM » Mon Apr 11, 2011 5:44 pm

I really like the small pockets. A2ish. Besides I never really use the pockets in my Raiders.

Post by **Michaelson** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 6:40 pm

That would be a problem for me, as I carry quite a bit of 'stuff' in my patch pockets myself.

Regards! michaelson

CM · Post by CM » Mon Apr 11, 2011 7:46 pm

_ wrote:I think the pockets rock. I'd opt for just a plain patch, ie no handwarmers. If anybody else made it I'd do it. In fact I was talking to TNO about a Temple before he went on vacation.

Yep. I have no use for handwarmers either. It's a design weakness. Is the Magnoli based on the NH jacket (via Wested)?
Was there not something about the design of the collar and sleeves that made this ToD Cooper special? It doesn't do the flying squirel, or soemthing like that?

Mark Brody · Post by **Mark Brody** » Mon Apr 11, 2011 10:34 pm

The only thing I don't like about handwarmers is that the pocket rarely lays flat at the side entry. Otherwise, I like 'em, and i definitely use all 5 pockets on my jacket (2 cargo, 2 handwarmer, 1 inside). The pockets on that Wested do look rather small, however. The placement is good, but they need to be about twice the size they are. The pockets should be about the size of an A2 flight jackets pockets for any movie. It varies a little bit, but not THAT much.

Zoltar · Post by **Zoltar** » Tue Apr 12, 2011 3:42 am

Goat a cautionary tale!

I couldn't quite get my head around how the sleeves could have ended up so short considering how long they started out, but after stretching out the wrinkles and running a tape down them they've lost at more than an inch to shrinkage. I knew goat shrinks more than lamb but I wasn't expecting this much

I've dampened them and gently stretched them down and regained some length.

Morale of the story take it easy with goat and water

CM · Post by CM » Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:34 am

Zoltar wrote:Goat a cautionary tale!

I couldn't quite get my head around how the sleeves could have ended up so short considering how long they started out, but after stretching out the wrinkles and running a tape down them they've lost at more than an inch to shrinkage. I knew goat shrinks more than lamb but I wasn't expecting this much
I've dampened them and gently stretched them down and regained some length.

Morale of the story take it easy with goat and water

Don't think this is right. I have washed dozens of jackets, goat several times. In warm water in a washing machine with soap. Not one jacket has ever shrunk. Not even a bit.

Maybe the leather used by wested was stretched and poorly tanned. That could explain it.

And as for pockets - I don't get how people use them. What on earth are people carrying with them? All I ever carry on my person is a wallet, keys and a pocket knife. My jeans hold them. And as for phones - I don't generally carry one, but if I do I have a bag for that and the latest book I'm reading.

Zoltar · Post by **Zoltar** » Tue Apr 12, 2011 6:51 am

Even gently stretching the sleeves I only measure about 24.5". I didn't measure beforehand but like I said they started way too long so I believe they were 25.5" as ordered. Weird!

whiskyman · Post by **whiskyman** » Tue Apr 12, 2011 6:54 am

My second Wested was a goat and was a good fit until I got caught in a deluge in Venice and had to wear it for several hours afterwards in a hot bus. After that it was a little too short which is why I eventually sold it.

Zoltar · Post by **Zoltar** » Tue Apr 12, 2011 7:14 am

Tekors didn't you have some shrinkage issues too?

Ian · Post by **Ian** » Tue Apr 12, 2011 7:26 am

I got a Novapelle in size 50 with 26.5 sleeves....The whole thing shrunk down so that now the sleeves measure 25.5".....Lost some off the length as well...

Ian

Hollowpond · Post by **Hollowpond** » Tue Apr 12, 2011 7:34 am

Another good reason to buy second (or third...) hand. They're pre-shrunk!!! My 2003 wested goat, which I recently purchased, got caught in a deluge and it didn't shrink a millimeter!

whiskyman · Post by **whiskyman** » Tue Apr 12, 2011 7:47 am

None of my other Westeds has shrunk.

Ian · Post by **Ian** » Tue Apr 12, 2011 7:48 am

Hollowpond wrote:Another good reason to buy second (or third...) hand. They're pre-shrunk!!! My 2003 wested goat, which I recently purchased, got caught in a deluge and it didn't shrink a millimeter!

What size was and is it now?

Ian

Hollowpond · Post by **Hollowpond** » Tue Apr 12, 2011 7:54 am

Well that's a little difficult to say because according to the previous owner it was a custom. It was listed as a 42L but it really fit like a 44R with long sleeves. (Which is perfect for me!) But getting to your inquiry, I don't believe it has shrunk much from its original size.

Indiana Dymond · Post by **Indiana Dymond** » Tue Apr 12, 2011 9:46 am

Was going to give my dark lamb TOD a quick shower to take off the shine,maybe I'll just wipe her down with a hot damp rag

.

Zoltar · Post by **Zoltar** » Tue Apr 12, 2011 11:11 am

My Authentic lamb has been fully submerged on a couple of occasions and hasn't shrunk noticeably.

Anyone else having trouble sending PM's I've got them backing up in my outbox?

Indiana Dymond · Post by **Indiana Dymond** » Tue Apr 12, 2011 11:19 am

Think I'll procede with caustion

,once I'm done I'll get some pictures up.

Mark Brody · Post by **Mark Brody** » Tue Apr 12, 2011 12:37 pm

I suppose the shrinking leather problem could be similar to the shrinking hat problem. If you stretch too small of a hat body over the block, it'll inevitably shrink. I wonder if the leather Wested uses has been stretched in any way to try and get more money out of each hide. If you can stretch the leather 10%, maybe you can increase your profits by 10%. Unfortunately, that 10% would amount to about 2 inches or more in the sleeve

Texan Scott · Post by **Texan Scott** » Tue Apr 12, 2011 6:25 pm

Shrinking leather depends upon the amount of heat applied to it, whether it's hot water, or the heat of the dryer. If you wet the jacket and just let it dry naturally, it wouldn't shrink that much, if any. If you used cold water, it probably wouldn't shrink. If you used hot water, it would most likely shrink.

CM · Post by CM » Tue Apr 12, 2011 7:02 pm

Texan Scott wrote:Shrinking leather depends upon the amount of heat applied to it, whether it's hot water, or the heat of the dryer. If you wet the jacket and just let it dry naturally, it wouldn't shrink that much, if any. If you used cold water, it probably wouldn't shrink. If you used hot water, it would most likely shrink.

I've washed jacekts in warm water, no problems. Hot, no.

Zoltar · Post by **Zoltar** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 4:20 am

I used the hot tap and ran it from cold by the time the sleeves were damped down the water was only comfortably warm not hot.

I've got a sample of this goat I think I'm going to perform some experiments on and see if I can replicate this level of shrinkage.

Zoltar · Post by **Zoltar** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 11:19 am

Dymond can you do me a favour and measure down your sleeve seams front and back?
Smooth the arm flat on a table with the seam in the centre and run the tape from shoulder/armpit seam to cuff. I'm getting 21" and 18" respectively.
Cheers ZOLTAR

Indiana Dymond · Post by **Indiana Dymond** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 11:27 am

I'll get on it when I'm home from work buddy

.

nicktheguy · Post by **nicktheguy** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 11:28 am

_ wrote:I'm sure shrinkage relates to certain leathers and even specific batches. My Westeds have either been lamb or cow. Never had a HH or goat.

Just reporting my experiences...

I think it's the use of Hobbit skins

Zoltar · Post by **Zoltar** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 12:45 pm

Maybe I've just got longer monkey arm's than I thought.

whiskyman · Post by **whiskyman** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 12:54 pm

Is it only the sleeves that have shrunk? Or has the jacket lost length generally? And how does the hide feel - is it plasticy at all?

Indiana Dymond · Post by **Indiana Dymond** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 1:40 pm

I've got 22" on the arm seam that runs from the yoke seam to cuff,and 19.5" on the arm seam that runs from armpit to cuff.

Hope this helps bud

.

Zoltar · Post by **Zoltar** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 2:09 pm

Whiskyman - Just the sleeves everything else checks out spot on with Dymond's. I'm starting to doubt how long they were before. I guess its a good idea to check out all dims on customs on arrival!
It's not put me off the hide at all definatly not plasticy, soft to the touch I'd recommend it.

Dymond - cheers fella.

Definatly an inch or so missing somewhere

Zoltar · Post by **Zoltar** » Thu Apr 14, 2011 3:56 am

I'm now convinced the sleeves are standard length 24.25" not the 25.5" as ordered. My shrinkage theory just doesn't add up.

Now they've settled a bit they are pretty much the same length as my OTR Raiders that I've always been happy with. Just wanted some extra length for the wrinkles.

Anyone want to buy a lovely size 40 Goat ToD with 24.25" sleeves and SA hardware? I'll give you a good discount!

ZOLTAR

Post by **Holt** » Thu Apr 14, 2011 6:45 am

the sleeves on a temple jacket will shrink more then on a raiders or lc. the armholes are small and the sleeves are more tube like on the temple jacket. I would not be surprised if they keep shrinking some more. the temple sleeves will get wrinkled by the bicep (like on film)and will take more of the sleeve lenght then a raiders or lc that only wrinkles by the forarm.

Post by **Holt** » Thu Apr 14, 2011 8:47 pm

Hey bud.

could you do me a favor? could you measure the stromflap width? I know the original size. just want to see if it has changed over the years.

I'm really excited, Peter made me an offer I could not refuse. a temple jacket in dark goatskin with a few personal mods. should be here in about a few weeks. my first temple jacket from the original pattern.

CM · Post by CM » Fri Apr 15, 2011 1:40 am

Indiana Holt wrote:Hey bud.

could you do me a favor? could you measure the stromflap width? I know the original size. just want to see if it has changed over the years.

I'm really excited, Peter made me an offer I could not refuse. a temple jacket in dark goatskin with a few personal mods. should be here in about a few weeks. my first temple jacket from the original pattern.

Holt, you're an armhole!