POLL: Preferred Raiders Jacket Cut

[Indy_1971]

Pleassssssssssssse don't change your design! SA all the way! The jacket looks great, don't change it! Honestly, all the people who posted pics wearing your jacket look great. And they seem to be all different shapes and sizes.

[MACHONE]

Screen accurate, and offer the insulated option. My only problem with your jacket is I am limited when I can wear it due to weather.
-MACHone

[Kentucky Blues]

the fact that the main reason we knows yours is the most screen accurate is because we know you measured an actual screen used jacket.

As much as I'd like to make that claim, I have not measured a screen used jacket personally. I have the measurements provided graciously by _, and I have a TN "warts and all" jacket. My conscience won't allow me to let this small misunderstanding to become "fact", although it would be to my advantage to let people believe it is true.

I stand corrected! Either way, I stand by my vote that the fit be updated, as I frankly think the original jacket was pretty crappy all things considered, and I think a good fit with the same look would be ideal.

-KB

[Gringo]

I love Eastman leathers and various others for there jackets. I have owned them all since the 80's, but they never fit right. Like Todd states they always ride up. That is because the WWII and other issued jackets were considered flying equipment, not fashion garments. I have a average off the rack size, but the best A-2 that ever fit was from Gibson and Barnes because they tweaked the original patterns. Just my two pence!

[jlhampton]

kentucky blues,
you requested earlier in the thread that i further explain the fit and weight of my wested lamb. the jacket isn't bad at all. i got the dark lamb and i think the color is absolutely right on to screen accuracy. it was not an o.t.r , but it doesn't quite fit i.m.o. the way it should. maybe the sizing was a little screwy, well, i know it was because they cut the sleeve lenght to the same measurement as the back length and i had to get 4 inches taken off by a local tailor. anyway, the cut of it was, for lack of a better term, very flying squirrely and the thickness of the leather was pretty thick and heavier than i had anticipated. i just expected something a little different, that's all. it was my first jacket back in '05 and i've droped a few pounds since then and being in florida i could use a little thinner, lighter jacket. so i'm gonna give todd's a try. like i said, i still like my wested and i still wear it in fall and winter months quite often. i just don't think it has the ''look'' i wanted. from what i've seen here, i'm growing fond of todd's jacket. i hope this cleared it up for you.

jlhampton

[Kentucky Blues]

Yes, that definitely helped

-KB

[Texan Scott]

My vote is for the category that doesn't exist...SA with Improved fit, either insulated or not. The details would be correct, but the fit could be tweaked a little. Having the option of zip out thinsulate would be a shot out of the park.

[Kentucky Blues]

Well, Tex, I think that's what improved fit means. I'm pretty sure the choices are screen accurate (original details, original fit) or improved fit (original details, improved fit). Though i do think separate polls for cut and insulation would be a good idea...

-KB

[Puppetboy]

Yes, by inproved fit, the only thing I mean to change is the way it hangs. The details would remain the same.

A zip-out lining is do-able, but it would require a leather facing around the opening. I'm afraid the added stiffness would change the drape too neagtively. Also, the zipper may show through. I've considered this before. I'll look into it some more.

[jlhampton]

maybe a test, prototype would be in order just to see the results in comparison to the original specs.

jlhampton

[Weston]

Yes, by inproved fit, the only thing I mean to change is the way it hangs. The details would remain the same.

A zip-out lining is do-able, but it would require a leather facing around the opening. I'm afraid the added stiffness would change the drape too neagtively. Also, the zipper may show through. I've considered this before. I'll look into it some more.

One thing I've noticed it the stiffness of the piping across the top of the pocket flap does more to affect the drape than facings. I've got a jacket with the facings so thin and soft it doesn't affect anything at all, and some with no facings that don't drape as well. Just a thought.

Weston

[Kentucky Blues]

Yes, by inproved fit, the only thing I mean to change is the way it hangs. The details would remain the same.

A zip-out lining is do-able, but it would require a leather facing around the opening. I'm afraid the added stiffness would change the drape too neagtively. Also, the zipper may show through. I've considered this before. I'll look into it some more.

One thing I've noticed it the stiffness of the piping across the top of the pocket flap does more to affect the drape than facings. I've got a jacket with the facings so thin and soft it doesn't affect anything at all, and some with no facings that don't drape as well. Just a thought.

Weston

I can see your point there, a thin enough facing could have no negative effect on the drape... but if you added a zip out lining to that facing, it probably would, as would the lining added to it most likely.

-KB

[Solo4114]

Maybe I'm not getting the point of the distinction between "SA" and "fitted to you."


By "SA" do people mean "using identical measurements as those of Harrison Ford"? Just sized up or down?

Or is "SA" whether the jacket looks on you the way it did on Harrison Ford?


I'm assuming "SA" is the former here -- people view the only truly "SA" look to be the relative dimensions of the jacket that Ford himself wore, and you just size those up or down, depending.


"SA", as I think of it, is how the jacket LOOKS on Ford, not the ACTUAL measurements of the jacket. So, I think ultimately a jacket that looks the same on me as Ford's jacket looks on Ford is the way to go. To my way of thinking, the only way to get that is to use the same basic style, but tailor the measurements to the individual, which in turn should produce the same look. Just for simple illustration, if you have a longer torso than Ford did, it'll look pretty goofy if you use his jacket ratios on your body. The jacket won't fit your body the same way it fit his.

That's not to say you can't maintain the same style and overall look of the jacket, though. Dunno if any of this makes sense...

[Mitch LaRue]

maybe a test, prototype would be in order just to see the results in comparison to the original specs.

Agreed.
Todd, I'll send along my mailing address immediately...

y'know... anything to help.


(Wow... thank goodness THAT joke's never been done before, huh?)

[enigmata_wood]

we're not all Indy shaped so improved fit makes sense to me.

[MARQ]

SA for me, I´ve got Wested 46L w/o the "80´s fit" and I swim in it ( mistake when ordering!)and the leather isn´t as thin as I thought.That´s why I´d love to have Todd´s jacket,thinner leather,trimmed down, and the way it should be; "as seen on screen"...

[jlhampton]

marq,
that's the exact same reason i want to go with todd's jacket. i experienced the same problem with my wested. as soon as his new batch comes in i'm ordering.

- jlhampton

[MARQ]

Ohman..next batch,this batch,there´s always something keeping you on your toes! And the new´s are again different some way...too short,too wide,sleeves too long/short.That´s driving me bonkers in yonkers !!! Phew..to me the standard 0.5-1 inch increase should make sense like ie. length starting from 24" from Small ending 27" in XXL or something..you know what I mean so I wont waste my breath.
Don´t take this personnally Todd.. You do Great Job!!

[Puppetboy]

Size Sleeve Back Length Chest Width
S 33.5" 22" 19"
M 34.5" 23" 22"
L 35.5" 24" 23.5"
XL 36.5" 25" 25"
XXL 37.5" 26" 27"

Each size lenghtens by 1" and widens by roughly 1.5" (round up or down). There is no "last batch" "this batch" "next batch". There is only "this batch". With only 5 sizes, you just can't give everyone the fit they want. Some guys are very picky - they want the sleeve to cuff to lightly graze the second crease of their thumb knuckle and the back has to be be 5.0" above the very beginning of their butt cleavage. 5.1" - no dice. It's the worst jacket ever.

I hope this helps. Most people prefer more room than less. And sleeves are easily shortened. They can't be lengthened, only shortened.

[jlhampton]

when i mentioned waiting for the next batch, that was due to an earlier post(maybe not in this thread) about certain s.a. details not being met by the manufacturer. i do believe todd specified, and correct me if i'm wrong, that those details were going to be corrected in the next batch expected sometime closer to the end of the year.
i'm not one of those who goes out and buys another piece of gear when some minuscule detail is added. if i'm going to purchase something for screen accuracy i am going to wait until those details are correct. currently, i was under the impression that they weren't. that's all.

jlhampton

[MARQ]

oops,I didn´t mean to upset anybody
It just seems that way when ever a new Item is offered....you gotta just love the collecting.

[jlhampton]

hey, no problem. there are no ill feelings here. i just wanted to make sure the facts were presented correctly in my case. i own one other jacket, a wested, and the fit just isn't s.a. to my eyes. i've had this one for about five years and i'm not going to be one who owns a dozen different jackets. ( i don't have that kind of money ) i believe todd's is probably the closest to what was used on film. i'm gonna take my chances with the fit. if not, i'm out five bucks on a restocking fee. no big deal.

jlhampton

[Puppetboy]

MARQ,

didn't mean to imply anything! But don't make yourself nuts. The new batch won't be here for a long time, and it remains to be seen if they come out perfect this time.

[Texan Scott]

Sure wish the XL was a 26" back length?

[jlhampton]

26'' back length, i seem to remember a discussion about making them at that length a standard. am i mistaken?

-jlhampton

[RaidersBash]

Well Todd, I've tried to submit my vote several times but I keep getting an error message too...

My vote woulb be IMPROVED FIT.

I love my standard. LOVE LOVE LOVE it. I wear it year round, if you remember I bought it large enough so I could fit a thick sweater under it (Indy's always looked big on him IMO). And so far, it's reached about 5 below here in North Dakota this year.

The only think that I don't like is, like you said, it bells out funny or does some other goofy things because of the SA.

If it had an improved fit I don't think there would be a better offering on the market for a potential 4 season shell.

[Texan Scott]

Thing is, most buy these new, shiny jackets then set about distressing them. What if the hide was already distressed by the factory? Here is Orvis' take on it:

http://www.orvis.com/store/product.aspx ... =218337958" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

...that might look really cool on a Raiders jacket, etc.?

[Mitch LaRue]

No doubt in my mind that it would make for a VERY cool look in a Raiders cut!