Since Wested jackets are custom made, I’m not sure how or why you decided that you need a 44 R. Personally, if I were ordering from Wested I would follow exactly what Peter asks for as far as giving him precise measurements taken from a tailor or seamstress if you haven’t already done so, and tell him exactly what you want, like maybe slightly tapered sleeves, a tight fit, or a bit larger so as to wear layered cloths underneath, etc...
It’s been said before, but considering you are new, I will tell you that lamb will gather at the elbows more than cow or goat, so what you initially think is the correct sleeve length, may, in fact, not be. Most folks here will likely tell you to order at least an inch more to compensate for this. After all, you can always have the sleeve length shortened by most any tailor, but you can not have those barrel cuffs lengthened to any appreciable degree if they are too short.
I do not own a Wested, but do own many other jackets with gussets. Some swear they help, others say they don’t notice any difference, but I have never heard anyone who got them complain that they were uncomfortable. My personal opinion is that those made from two pieces of leather (which mine are) DO help in mobility and I’m completely oblivious to their presence as far as comfort.
http://www.indygear.com/forum/viewtopic ... f401d646df
IMO, I would opt for the anodized black rectangular sliders, especially for the lighter lambskin (functionally outweighing all other considerations) although they are also considered screen accurate by most.
http://www.indygear.com/forum/viewtopic ... ght=#44986
Also, recently, it appears that people have taken to adding an additional inch to the front of their jackets so when it is zipped, the hem will appear even - front and back.
http://www.indygear.com/forum/viewtopic ... 46df#67685
As far as other modifications, you might like a name tag above the inside pocket and the Wested label under the inside pocket:
http://www.indygear.com/forum/viewtopic ... f401d646df
Welcome!
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