Decisions, decisions...first Fedora!

NewJerseyRaider · Post by **NewJerseyRaider** » Sun Jun 06, 2010 6:59 pm

Hello everybody,
I've been around the COW for quite some time, however this is my first post and real interest into getting a fedora! So first I'd like to say hello to all the other mad hatters here

There's just so many choices...and for somebody who's never really worn one before...how does one decide which style to get?
My biggest concern is that since I'm of very small build, 5'9, 130 lbs, I'm afraid I'll look like a lamp shade walking down the street!
I've very new to this forum, so I just starting reading up on the different styles....what I'm looking for is one that doesn't have a very tall crown...I guess a smaller hat would be the best description...
And I know I'm going to hear a lot about this, but I can't honestly tell the difference between the fedora's that were worn on screen or even the ones available to buy!

Money isn't too much of a concern, however I'm not looking to wait like 5-6 months....and I plan on getting it good and worn pretty heavy....

I know AdventureBuilt is spoken of pretty highly here....and I like the color and overall shape of Magnoli's fedoras...
Anyone have any other suggestions? I know there's a ton of info on here..I've slowly been going thru it, it just seems a little overwhelming at first!
Thanks guys!

jnicktem · Post by **jnicktem** » Sun Jun 06, 2010 7:05 pm

If you are looking for a 5-6 month wait... then the Penman Hat Company is right up your alley!

Judging by what you have said... I would recommend a Last Crusade style from the Penman Hat Co. It has a slightly lower crown which is something you want. I have one, and I wear it more than any other hat I own (and I have a LOT of hats!).

The Adventurebilts are amazing hats... but the waiting list for one is a long, long time. Plus they are more expensive. John Penmans hats are right on par with the Adventurebilts (trust me, I own both) so you are getting an awesome hat for a great price when you get a Penman!

Ohio Jones · Post by **Ohio Jones** » Sun Jun 06, 2010 8:08 pm

Cant go wrong with a Penman.....They ROCK!

Indiana Bugs · Post by **Indiana Bugs** » Sun Jun 06, 2010 8:50 pm

If price is not a concern, Id say that Penman is probably your best bet. If you want a Raiders hat, for instance, John can take your size and shape into consideration and scale the hat to your head and bod, keeping the proportions spot on. Of course, he can do this with any style hat he makes.

Kentucky Blues · Post by **Kentucky Blues** » Sun Jun 06, 2010 9:19 pm

I have to agree with the others. I'm fedora shoping (kinda) myself, and I'm probably going to be going with an Adventurebilt Henry, but if I could wait 5-6 months, I'd definitely be going with Penman. Everything about his work seems to be top notch. And I also agree that the LC hat sounds like it would be right for you. If you look at the penman post 'em up thread on the last page, you can see a nice Penman LC hat near the bottom

-Daryl

gwyddion · Post by **gwyddion** » Sun Jun 06, 2010 9:20 pm

Your best bet is a custom hat so you can communicate with the hatter, getting something you will like and that will suit you. Another factor is the fit: nothing will fit as good as a hat that was made to your measurement. Judging by the wait time you would prefer I would have to agree with what the others said and suggest a Penman hat. John Penman (Bendingoak if you didn't know) is all about getting you what you want and I can personally vouch for the craftsmanship and overall quality of his hats. I own two (second hand) AB's and a AB Henry that was personally rebuilt by Marc (of AB Deluxe) and I swear my Penman hat is equal to the best of those in terms of quality and looks. Another bonus with ordering a Penman is that you'll get a Penman hatbox with your order, made by Sarah's hatboxes, which are the best hatboxes you will ever find.

Regards, Geert

NewJerseyRaider · Post by **NewJerseyRaider** » Sun Jun 06, 2010 10:05 pm

Thanks for the advice so far guys! I had a typo and meant to say that I'm not really looking to wait 5-6 months.....but if it's the difference of getting what fits right as opposed to what doesn't....then I shall wait.

JC1972 · Post by **JC1972** » Sun Jun 06, 2010 10:18 pm

NewJerseyRaider wrote:Thanks for the advice so far guys! I had a typo and meant to say that I'm not really looking to wait 5-6 months.....but if it's the difference of getting what fits right as opposed to what doesn't....then I shall wait.

If you don't want to wait, get the Henry from John Penman. They've had great reviews for a beaver/rabbit blend hat that's not handmade.

Texan Scott · Post by **Texan Scott** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 12:12 am

Custom = deferred gratification. Factory = NOW!

Here are some options from that perspective:

AB Custom Raiders Rabbit, 6-8 weeks, $300

Penman Custom: beaver or rabbit felt, 5-6 months as mentioned.

AB Henry is a factory hat and John usually has these on hand for immediate shipping. High quality, 80% beaver/20% rabbit felt.

Kentucky Blues · Post by **Kentucky Blues** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 12:26 am

Texan Scott wrote:AB Henry is a factory hat and John usually has these on hand for immediate shipping. High quality, 80% beaver/20% rabbit felt.

I think you got that last part backwards, I'm pretty sure it's 80% rabbit, 20% beaver.

-Daryl

Post by **Indiana Jeff** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 3:04 am

Don't forget Garrison Hatters by Local Land Surveyor (member here). He's spent time learning the trade from Steve Delk and Steve consistently sings the praises of LLS's Raiders block. IIRC LLS hats are rabbit (as opposed to beaver), but are custom made and I don't think his wait times are that long. Would be worth checking him out.

Regards,

Indiana Jeff

Texan Scott · Post by **Texan Scott** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 9:35 am

Righto.

It's 80 rabbit/20 beaver felt. It was getting late.

The Henry would also make a great second (beater) hat if you chose a custom in the future? The brim really takes on the SoC look after some use. Since it is a beaver blend, this feature makes it even more durable.

Local Land Surveyor · Mon Jun 07, 2010 10:05 am

Indiana Jeff wrote:Don't forget Garrison Hatters by Local Land Surveyor (member here). He's spent time learning the trade from Steve Delk and Steve consistently sings the praises of LLS's Raiders block. IIRC LLS hats are rabbit (as opposed to beaver), but are custom made and I don't think his wait times are that long. Would be worth checking him out.

Regards,

Indiana Jeff

That is correct Indiana Jeff on each account. I am currently under 30 days "turn-around" time.

LLS

indyclone · Post by **indyclone** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 10:13 am

i know , i know , i always have to push the todds costume hats . the uptowner and downtowner hats are cheaper in price but are really nice hats . the feel of the hats are really nice the uptonwer is softer and look like the last crusade style of hat while the downtowner is a bit stiffer but has the look of the raiders hat.
the downtowner is 100 bucks and the uptowner is 150 bucks but i know you said money wasnt a problem , but just wanted to let you know about these fine two hats .

Post by **Michaelson** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 12:39 pm

Well, whom ever you choose, I, too, highly recommend going custom.

You've prefaced by saying you were "....of very small build, 5'9, 130 lbs, I'm afraid I'll look like a lamp shade walking down the street!"

The only folks who can fit the hat to the wearer, rather than the other way round, is going to be a custom hat maker. They will be able to fit crown and brim sizing to an individuals face and shape.

You can invest in any good factory hat, that's true, but you're going to end up looking at it as the 'lamp shade' situation due to the ratios involved, and more than likely will leave the hat at home in its box. That's NOT the result you want.

So, I completely support the idea of choosing a good custom maker and have them custom make a hat that fits YOU in both comfort for wear, but in the proper ratio in terms of sizing. You won't regret the effort.

Regards! Michaelson

jlee562 · Post by **jlee562** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 1:01 pm

I'm of a similarly short/skinny build. I told John Penman this and magically (well, John IS a master craftsman!) he sent me a hat with darn good proportions.

BendingOak · Post by **BendingOak** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 4:58 pm

jlee562 wrote:I'm of a similarly short/skinny build. I told John Penman this and magically (well, John IS a master craftsman!) he sent me a hat with darn good proportions.

I love how that hat looks on you. I myself couldn't pull of that sytle as well as you do.

John

Post by **Michaelson** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 5:05 pm

As jlee562 shows, and John backs, I rest my case. Trust your first fedora to the hands of a craftsman if you're wanting to do it right the first time out. You will NOT regret the decision.

Just my opinion.

Regards! Michaelson

DarenHenryW · Post by **DarenHenryW** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 5:08 pm

Custom hatter all the way. Price and wait time are easily worth it.

And I vote Penman . . . hands down.

Jack Henry

JC1972 · Post by **JC1972** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 5:19 pm

DarenHenryW wrote:Custom hatter all the way. Price and wait time are easily worth it.

And I vote Penman . . . hands down.

Jack Henry

Hands down

and thumbs up

jlee562 · Post by **jlee562** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 6:24 pm

BendingOak wrote:
jlee562 wrote:I'm of a similarly short/skinny build. I told John Penman this and magically (well, John IS a master craftsman!) he sent me a hat with darn good proportions.

I love how that hat looks on you. I myself couldn't pull of that sytle as well as you do.

John

I love how this hat looks on me too! I get a lot of compliments on it as well, thanks to you good sir, of course!

Here's the hat in question:

I still need someone else to take a picture of me so you don't get the whole "arms length picture" thing going on.

NewJerseyRaider · Post by **NewJerseyRaider** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 10:45 pm

Gentleman,
Thank you to all who chipped in with advice, I do truly appreciate it!
I have decided that custom is the way to go as well...I've always said if your going to spend a good amount of cash on something, mine as spend the extra and get something that's really nice.

I do think I'll go with something that's either all Beaver, or the majority...I've had too many rabbits as pets and would feel too bad wearing them on my head!

Are Magnoli hats custom as well? I've had good experiences with him dealing with James Bond suits, etc.
I do very much like the look of the Penman hats also...tres cool, however I do like the lighter brown that Magnoli has...

Man...I didn't think it'd be such a hard choice! When I got my jacket I knew I was getting a Wested..but this.....maaan...I never thought too many choices would be a difficult thing!

Jlee- That does look really good on you my man....like it's really spot on for your size and all...

jnicktem · Post by **jnicktem** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 10:51 pm

Magnoli's hats are actually reblocked Herbert Johnsons by Steve Delk of Adventurebilt. You would be making a wiser choice going with a custom beaver Penman for that price if you want a hat that will last. Even though Steve Delk reblocks the hat, you can't change the quality of the felt. So unless you really really want the Herbert Johnson name on the hat... go with the Penman.

Oh and I know how you mentioned you like the colour of the Magnoli better. Felt colour fades with time and wear... so even though the Penman and AB's start out a little dark in colour, eventually they will fade into a great shade of brown!

Texan Scott · Post by **Texan Scott** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 10:52 pm

You chose wisely.

No use in getting several when you can do it right the first time!

I think you'll really like your Penman, regardless of what animal you wear atop ur crown!

Guillaume · Post by **Guillaume** » Tue Jun 08, 2010 8:38 am

The Penman is unbeatable when comes to the quality you get for the price. If I compare it to other hats I own and know, only Marc's AB deluxe offers a slightly better quality in terms of materials and craftsmanship. The price difference, however, is considerable by now. Particularly for American customers.

NewJerseyRaider · Post by **NewJerseyRaider** » Sat Jun 12, 2010 5:45 pm

Hey boys,
Thanks for all the great help....here's some pictures of me wearing an cheap "indy fedora" I picked up couple years ago for Halloween.

What does everyone think....does a Fedora look good?
I'd love to get one, but hesitant as I'm not sure how it looks...
Thanks!
-NJR

JC1972 · Post by **JC1972** » Sat Jun 12, 2010 5:53 pm

Well, what you have there is a DP Dorfman Pacific wool felt hat. I guess you could call it a fedora, just not a very good one

. Anything else you get will be an upgrade. Besides the DP hats come in generic sizes and not geared toward you. If you get custom, you can talk to the hatter and show him pics of you so he knows how to make it for you. Good luck deciding.

edited to correct a typo

jlee562 · Post by **jlee562** » Sat Jun 12, 2010 6:50 pm

You know, I don't actually think the DPs look all that bad in terms of their crown shape and brim. It's just a more modern style hat than a 30's Fedora (IE: the Indy hat) would be.

Since you have a slimmer face New Jersey Raider, a TOD hat might suit you better than say, a Raiders fedora. With the lower crown and slight taper, it will be closer to the shape of the hat you've got now, which if I do say so myself, fits you quite well in terms of the proportions.

Kentucky Blues · Post by **Kentucky Blues** » Sat Jun 12, 2010 10:49 pm

Actually, I'm not quite sure that's a dorfman, it might just be a cheap hat. Either way, it's cheap enough that it doesn't pull off the Indy look all that well, or even a very good non indy fedora, in my opinion. That one looks like it's practically floating on your head, and the taper is a bit too extreme (very costume looking). There are high quality tapered hats, I own a few myself, but that has the look of a hat that shrunk rather than an intentionally tapered hat (though I'm sure that's the way it came) which is why you look like you have a lampshade on your head. You would want a much less tapered (or even a straight sided) hat. Also, you'd probably want to wear the hat a little further forward on your head, that one looks like it's tilted back a bit. Also, does that one have a ribbon bound around the edge of the brim? It looks like it, and if it does, that would account for part of why the brim looks weird on you. A raw edge hat tends to offer alot more leniency when it comes to how you want to style your brim. If I were you, I'd go for an LC styled hat, as I have a thin face and that's the hat I prefer. Then again, I'm also just a fan of the LC hat, so.... By the way, what size are you?

-Daryl

Indiana Bugs · Post by **Indiana Bugs** » Sun Jun 13, 2010 1:55 am

It may be a cheap hat made with poor materials and too much taper, but I think it sits on his head just fine. It is proportionally in the ball park. I'd go with less taper, for sure, though. How much less is up to the wearer.

NewJerseyRaider · Post by **NewJerseyRaider** » Sun Jun 13, 2010 9:10 am

Kentucky- Not sure of my head size....but I'm pretty sure it's a smaller size...will have to measure later..
And yes I'm also positive it's a Dorfman Pacific....it has a raw edge on the brim...doesn't have a ribbon.

Indiana Bugs · Post by **Indiana Bugs** » Sun Jun 13, 2010 11:03 am

It has a 'ribbon.' On a fedora, the 'ribbon' is that (in your case) 1 1/2 inch thing that wraps around your noggin with a bow on the left side. What you are referring to is the bound edge. Bound edges can have trim material around them, often ribbon material, or sometimes theyre folded over or under and sewn. Yes, a bit nit-picky, but the RIBBON is what I described above.

NewJerseyRaider · Post by **NewJerseyRaider** » Tue Jun 15, 2010 11:07 pm

Well after reading alot of the posts and seeing many, many great images of fedoras I do believe I'll be going with a TOD.
It seems that many people bash that version because of the taper, but that seems it's what'll look good on me, and that's the most important.

I'm semi tall and thin to start with, so I don't think a fedora with no taper will look that great to be honest, and I'm also going custom, but haven't decided with who yet.

I'd really like to go with Penman, but I just very recently discovered that within 3-4 months I'll be working on a sail boat and will be out to sea for very extended periods of time. I thought what better way to break in a new fedora!

Problem is I doubt very much I'll be able to have one sent to me after Sept-Oct as I have no idea where I'll be or if I'll even have access to a post office. Bummer.

I'd love to get one in beaver, and I know that extends the wait for a custom hat even longer....I know Penman and AB Deluxe have around 5-6 months waiting lists.....

Any suggestions? Besides not taking the job and staying putt...

jlee562 · Post by **jlee562** » Wed Jun 16, 2010 2:08 am

Peter Bro's hats should be able to turn one around in time, Optimo too, though that one would be more expensive.

gwyddion · Post by **gwyddion** » Wed Jun 16, 2010 5:44 am

Adventurebilt has a waiting list of a few weeks for those who pay the higher new price of $650. That might work if you need it faster than in three or four months but would be expensive.

Regards, Geert

NewJerseyRaider · Post by **NewJerseyRaider** » Wed Jun 16, 2010 11:24 am

Do you know if Adventurebilt do a TOD version.....or just the CS?

jlee562 · Post by **jlee562** » Wed Jun 16, 2010 11:33 am

NewJerseyRaider wrote:Do you know if Adventurebilt do a TOD version.....or just the CS?

Sure, Steve can make that hat. Although, if you're going to go that route, I got on order a CS hat from Steve with a 5 1/4" open crown that may work for you as well.

BendingOak · Post by **BendingOak** » Wed Jun 16, 2010 7:00 pm

Steve can make any of the Indy hats. If money is no object, I would get one of steve's hats. I'm not so sure that the TOD hat is the only one that will work for you.

JC1972 · Post by **JC1972** » Wed Jun 16, 2010 7:21 pm

gwyddion wrote:Adventurebilt has a waiting list of a few weeks for those who pay the higher new price of $650. That might work if you need it faster than in three or four months but would be expensive.

Regards, Geert

What if you feel like waiting? Is there a lower price?

jlee562 · Post by **jlee562** » Wed Jun 16, 2010 7:35 pm

JC1972 wrote:
gwyddion wrote:Adventurebilt has a waiting list of a few weeks for those who pay the higher new price of $650. That might work if you need it faster than in three or four months but would be expensive.

Regards, Geert
What if you feel like waiting? Is there a lower price?

Not anymore, no. Last June, before the price increased to $650, Steve extended the $400 price to COW members for a month or two (when I hopped on the end of the waiting list), but now the price is $650 and the turnaround time, IIRC, is six weeks.

NewJerseyRaider · Post by **NewJerseyRaider** » Wed Jun 16, 2010 7:47 pm

Thanks for the advice everyone.
BendingOak- I'm not positive it's the only one that's work for me either...it's all kind of a guess as I've never worn an actual fedora before, just the Dorfman for Halloween.

What exactly is the difference between Adventurebuilt, and Adventurebilt Deluxe...?

BendingOak · Post by **BendingOak** » Wed Jun 16, 2010 7:59 pm

NewJerseyRaider wrote:Thanks for the advice everyone.
BendingOak- I'm not positive it's the only one that's work for me either...it's all kind of a guess as I've never worn an actual fedora before, just the Dorfman for Halloween.

What exactly is the difference between Adventurebuilt, and Adventurebilt Deluxe...?

AB is made by Steve Delk and the ABD is made by Marc Kitter.

It's exactly like it sounds. The ABD felt is the tops with AB being a very close 2nd. Marc uses the best sweatbands I have ever seen. The liber and ribbon is the same.

Looking at the photos of you a tapered hat does look so great on you to begin with. I think with the right specs you could pull of any Indy hat. Most people here don't look lie Ford but can still pull off the look.

NewJerseyRaider · Post by **NewJerseyRaider** » Wed Jun 16, 2010 8:11 pm

Thanks for the quick reply BendingOak.
It's good for you that your so busy. I was really hoping I'd be able to get one from you....bummer about the wait.
I think I'll give AB a try.....do you think they're about the same in price now?
Josh

JC1972 · Post by **JC1972** » Wed Jun 16, 2010 8:57 pm

NewJerseyRaider wrote:Thanks for the quick reply BendingOak.
It's good for you that your so busy. I was really hoping I'd be able to get one from you....bummer about the wait.
I think I'll give AB a try.....do you think they're about the same in price now?
Josh

Marc's ABD are 599 Euro, which comes to about $735 now. You can access either Marc's or Steve's sites at the below link:

www.adventurebilt.com

Texan Scott · Post by **Texan Scott** » Wed Jun 16, 2010 10:41 pm

Mine is bashed in the Freddie Krueger look at the moment.

Post by **Michaelson** » Thu Jun 17, 2010 8:32 am

The Henry is indeed a good choice. I got to examine one that belonged to a member here when I was at last years DragonCon in Atlanta, and I couldn't tell it finish-wise from the AB beaver fedora I was wearing that day. A VERY nice hat indeed.

Regards! Michaelson

Texan Scott · Post by **Texan Scott** » Thu Jun 17, 2010 9:39 am

Its also not a heavy weight felt. It's not a 'heavy' hat.

NewJerseyRaider · Post by **NewJerseyRaider** » Thu Jun 17, 2010 9:07 pm

TundraRider-Thanks for the advice!

I'd really like a Penman...but I just can't do the wait right now.
So I'm really leaning at a AB or the Henry...I really do like the look of it. Plus it's ready to be shipped, which is great...
I'm curious is the Henry would fit as good on my small head, as a AB??

Texan Scott · Post by **Texan Scott** » Thu Jun 17, 2010 9:15 pm

One other option might be Steve's AB Raiders rabbit hat, 6-8 weeks? The Henry is a good choice too, not to murk the waters any.

Kentucky Blues · Post by **Kentucky Blues** » Thu Jun 17, 2010 11:25 pm

NewJerseyRaider,

One thing that you need to remember is that there isn't really a standard dimension for hats. There are typical standards for the Indy hat, but the joy of going custom is the fact that you don't have to stick to the strict, choiceless standards of a factory hat. The Indy hat was made to look good on Ford just as much as it was made to look like a 30's fedora, and the same could be done for you. In other words, don't pick the indy hat who's Ford-specs you think would suit you best, pick the indy hat you like best and have it customized to suit you. If you love the raiders hat but don't think tall and wide would work for you, scale it down. Like I think I've said before, I have a small frame too... but you'd be surprised what a variety of brim widths and crown heights I can pull off. I look good in both the Fed IV, and the really early federations, which have some considerable differences in the brim and crown. And I think taper, unless the hat is tilted or has a short crown (and shorter brim to match), looks terrible on my narrow faced head.

Just keep these things in mind... especially the ability of a custom hatter to make a hat that looks good on you, while still being indyesque and reminiscent of your favorite Indy hat, even if means modifying the specs to suit you

-Daryl