Jacket eccentricities & nuances...

Texan Scott · Post by **Texan Scott** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 11:32 am

There are certain characteristics that define a true Indy jacket, but there are also certain specs about it that seperate one version from another, such as...

Is there any difference in fit or drape between a jacket that has a lower yoke vs. a higher positioned yoke? Does either configuration cause the pleats or other components to lie a certain way?

Same question with the bottom of the yoke seam meeting, or not meeting the sleeve seams? Why would you favor one vs. (config.) another?

Why did the storm flap not have a snap or "press stud", originally?

Some jackets feature sleeve seams that point to the side of the jacket. (If you hold you arm straight in front of you, the sleeve seam is in the 3 o'clock position on the left side, and 9 o'clock on the right arm). While some are configured in the 12 o'clock position, and point outward. Other than appearance, what bearing does this have on fit, if any?

There may be other nuances that can be discussed, like straps and its various configs. as well.

Inside, what material makes the best liner?

Just some general questions for discussion purposes...

Indiana Joyce · Post by **Indiana Joyce** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 1:19 pm

I know this much, every time I put my jackets on I have to pull the liner up at the shoulders because the action of putting the jacket on pulls the sleeve liner out onto my wrists.

Post by **Holt** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 1:37 pm

never happend to me.

RCSignals · Post by **RCSignals** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 1:52 pm

Indiana Joyce wrote:I know this much, every time I put my jackets on I have to pull the liner up at the shoulders because the action of putting the jacket on pulls the sleeve liner out onto my wrists.

sounds like your lining is too big for the jacket

maboot38 · Post by **maboot38** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 1:54 pm

I've never HEARD of that. Is the jacket too small? Or did you get a cotton liner instead of satin?

RCSignals · Post by **RCSignals** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 2:03 pm

My Wested ToD jackets do it a bit, also the lining puffs out at the zipper, particularly on the left.

Indiana Joyce · Post by **Indiana Joyce** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 8:12 pm

My cotton lined satin sleeved wested novapelle does it, my wested ToD with satin lining and sleeves does it, and my Todd's raiders OTR with sating lining and sleeves does it.

Based on my 2 custom jackets from Wested, I'll never buy a Wested again.

maboot38 · Post by **maboot38** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 8:20 pm

Very strange. Never seen that before.

Post by **Holt** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 8:21 pm

me neither. and i have had alot of jackets.

Indyzane · Post by **Indyzane** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 12:52 pm

My custom Wested LC satin lining does it. I think I'm done with Wested as well.

maboot38 · Post by **maboot38** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 12:54 pm

You guys with the Wested problems, how new are your Westeds? Maybe something has changed?

Indyzane · Post by **Indyzane** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 1:00 pm

maboot38 wrote:You guys with the Wested problems, how new are your Westeds? Maybe something has changed?

Mine is only 2 years old and I hardly ever wear mine. Do get me wrong just bothers me a little.

Indyzane · Post by **Indyzane** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 1:14 pm

_ wrote:Yep - the lining is a different size than the outer shell. That's just bad work of the "I dont give a ####" variety...

Why do we give these people our money, over and over...

Amen! I am glad somebody said it! I agree 100%

RCSignals · Post by **RCSignals** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 1:38 pm

maboot38 wrote:You guys with the Wested problems, how new are your Westeds? Maybe something has changed?

The NH ToD's have only been offered for what? a year?

Indiana Joyce · Post by **Indiana Joyce** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 3:21 pm

Yep, that photo is exactly what Im talking about. Even my Todd's jacket does it. My theory is it happens because of wrinkling the sleeves, and also, not sewing the liner to individual parts of the jacket. Ive had lots of jackets over the years and these Indy jackets are the first time Ive ever seen this. My solution to all of this is putting the jacket on, reaching into the shoulders and tugging the lining up.

My ToD wested I actually had to return once, because despite my giving measurements, it came in too small. The replacement has the correct sleeves and shoulder length, but is too short, and the pockets are in the wrong spot. I documented all that @#$% tho last year in another thread. Basically Im not 100 percent satisfied with any of my jackets, but, I'll never be able to afford a Nowak or a Wings or Magnoli, so this is where I'm at. At least my Todd's looks amazing, in my opinion. I wrinkled it like you wouldn't believe. It just needs sanding.

Texan Scott · Post by **Texan Scott** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 7:52 pm

....Joyce, maybe your jacket was meant to be worn wrong side out?

All this time, you just thought you were wearing it the right way? Keep the most expensive part of the jacket closest to you?

crismans · Post by **crismans** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 8:05 pm

Indiana Joyce wrote: Im not 100 percent satisfied with any of my jackets, but, I'll never be able to afford a Nowak or a Wings or Magnoli, so this is where I'm at. At least my Todd's looks amazing, in my opinion. I wrinkled it like you wouldn't believe. It just needs sanding.

Really, you can. I've said this before. I'm a teacher. Now, admittedly, the standard of living where I am is low, and I make a good salary for my area. But I'm not rich by any means. I've sold off some stuff that I didn't use or like (basically taking up closet space) and have a mad money fund that I put back each month. You'd be surprised how quickly a little here and there adds up.

You might have to wait a little while (and no one loves instant gratification that me!) but you can have any of the jackets you mention with a little patience. And there is some good Wings news on the horizon that I'm not sure I can go into specifics on but should make you very happy.

ProfessorHenryWJonesJr · Fri Mar 12, 2010 9:55 pm

COW member "Crismans"

You mentioned something, some months back in my post inquiring about the status of US Wings "Temple of Doom" jacket that you and COW member "Indiana Holt" put together, that US Wings had some news forthcoming.

Ah, the anticipation of the news.

Indiana Joyce · Post by **Indiana Joyce** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 10:31 pm

Texan Scott wrote:....Joyce, maybe your jacket was meant to be worn wrong side out?

All this time, you just thought you were wearing it the right way? Keep the most expensive part of the jacket closest to you?

I tip my fedora to you sir:)

Crisman..I'm actually not working. I lost my job in January. The most extravagant thing I bought recently besides a suit jacket for job interviews was the further adventures of Indiana Jones graphic novel. But even before that, it's not easy dropping 900 dollars on a jacket from Tony.(Don't get me wrong, I'm not knocking the price of something that is custom made for you, but also custom made correctly and actually shipped to you, unlike putting in an order for a Wested, paying them, they keep the money and don't process the order, you call from work and get in trouble, they process the order 4 weeks later, you get the jacket, it's not right but you keep it because your new and don't want to complain, you order a ToD jacket, they keep the money, you have to call again, and get in trouble at work again, they process the order 4 weeks later, you get it, it's the wrong size, you send it back, you get a new jacket with the wrong interior tag, body too short and incorrect pocket placement...) Long story short if I won the lottery I'd be making Magnoli, Todd, and Tony rich rich men.

crismans · Post by **crismans** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 10:51 pm

@ Professor Jones--this is actually something else other than what I was talking about then. I'm not sure if I what I was alluding to in that post will happen or not. This new thing is apparently going through. Believe me, I'm not trying to be coy, I'd love to dish, I'm just not sure if I'm supposed to talk about it or not!

@Indiana Joyce--You have my well wishes to find a job in record time! I can only imagine the stress that would cause. When you do find that job, start saving. Tony has quite a few hides in the $750 range--I think his CS would be perfect for you--and Mags jackets are $500 shipped. That's still a lot of money, I fully realize, but once you get that jacket you love and truly don't want to take off, it will be money well spent.

ProfessorHenryWJonesJr · Fri Mar 12, 2010 11:22 pm

Good evening once again COW member "Crismans",

Oh no, believe me, I completely understand the situation. But, I thank you for notifying the "COW" community concerning the good news forthcoming from US Wings.

Again, the anticipation of good news. Auugghh.

Texan Scott · Post by **Texan Scott** » Sat Mar 13, 2010 9:58 am

Joyce, I sympathize with you. You may remember this one:

Post by **Holt** » Sat Mar 13, 2010 10:32 am

I sence that this is soon turning into a wested bash thread.

this has nothing to do with the topic.

so, lets stay on topic!

thank you.

RCSignals · Post by **RCSignals** » Sat Mar 13, 2010 2:20 pm

Indiana Holt wrote:I sence that this is soon turning into a wested bash thread.

..........

I don't think so Holt, they are just talking about their personal jackets and eccentricities and nuances.

Since reproduction jackets are copies of originals it was bound to go that way.

Tibor · Post by **Tibor** » Sat Mar 13, 2010 10:51 pm

Hi Crismans,

Looking forward to anything new and more SA from US Wings... especially in light of their pedigree. Keep us posted when you can!

Indiana Joyce · Post by **Indiana Joyce** » Sun Mar 14, 2010 9:52 pm

He's right, I don't want to see this thread get locked down because I'm bashing something other than a hat:)

So, back on topic...I've got sliders with and without prongs, and D-rings. Which works best for you? The sliders with prongs hold the side straps but I worry about the prongs. The regular sliders work great, and the d-rings slip even though I turn one set inward.

Texan Scott · Post by **Texan Scott** » Mon Mar 15, 2010 12:59 pm

Alot of it depends on what leather is used. D-rings work best with cowhide, because the leather is thick, but with lamb, you need rectangular loops at least.

Indydawg · Post by **Indydawg** » Wed Mar 17, 2010 3:22 pm

Alright...I think I can speak to this...at least to how the jackets wear on a slim athletic build.

The best FITTING jacket I ever owned was a US Wings Vintage cowhide jacket. It just sat on my shoulders right, and the larger back yoke and smaller action pleats made for a cleaner line when turned to the side. I could be wrong, but I always attributed that better fit to those two factors....the fact that I had a fairly broad shoulder/back area, and having a larger area of leather to cover that, and smaller action pleats, just kept things looking cleaner.

None of my Westeds have ever fit right when I turned to the side....now, perhaps I had them sized wrong, but when I would wear the jackets, the back of the jacket would "fly" out...like Superman's cape...even cinching the side straps all the way didn't help much...some, but not much. However, to get a jacket that felt comfortable through the chest/shoulder area, I always got a 44R Wested. I even tried a 42R once...fit very snugly through the chest/shoulders and STILL had the Superman-effect.

My Expedition...a 42R...ALSO does the Superman thing...it has the smaller yoke an the 1.5" pleats....just like a Wested. Coincidence? I think not....

I also think that the bottom sleeve seam lining up with the bottom back yoke seam is by FAR the cleaner look....just an aesthetic thing, there, though.

Oh...and storm flap snaps....PLEASE....every Indy jacket needs them! What do you do when a "bad cloud" blows up?!

Anyway....that's my .02...

Post by **Holt** » Wed Mar 17, 2010 3:33 pm

hey dawg.

can i ask you how old your westeds are?

I too wear a 44 and of all the jackets I have had they never had the superman effect. the pattern on todays westeds has changed from like ten years back, if your jackets are almost that old i mean...

I was just wondering.

anyway, good to get to know you. hope you stick around

Post by **Michaelson** » Wed Mar 17, 2010 3:41 pm

He used to be staff, Eric, so he's been around a while.

Regards! Michaelson

Post by **Holt** » Wed Mar 17, 2010 3:43 pm

i know, i know....

we just havent got acquainted yet.

Post by **Michaelson** » Wed Mar 17, 2010 3:45 pm

He's a good man to know. You two have a lot in common.

Regards !Michaelson

Indydawg · Post by **Indydawg** » Wed Mar 17, 2010 3:55 pm

Gorsh!!!

You're a kind
friend, Michaelson!

I actually have moved all my Westeds on to greener pastures. I am on the verge of acquiring a bit of nostalgia from my nephew...Peter and I worked closely on a custom LC goatskin jacket for him about ten years ago...he's long since outgrown it...I'm still roughly the same build...so I am going to get thr jacket from him to just have as a piece that I know Peter personally built....and which turned out perfectly-at least for my nephew.

So...that's a longer answer than you probably wanted...but I haven't owned a Wested in at least five years...probably more...

Post by **Holt** » Wed Mar 17, 2010 4:09 pm

so dawg. when your ready to order an LC give me a shout. I have some good specs for the LC jacket

Post by **Michaelson** » Wed Mar 17, 2010 4:11 pm

That he does, Dawg.

Like I said, you two have a LOT in common!!

Regards! Michaelson

Indydawg · Post by **Indydawg** » Wed Mar 17, 2010 4:21 pm

What's more interesting about all this is that you guys knew (after less than 24 hrs) my palms are already sweating and I'm starting to itch all over...I am going to have to get "one more Wested" .....just to compare and contrast...for research, of course

Post by **Holt** » Wed Mar 17, 2010 4:51 pm

oh, of course

binkmeisterRick · Post by **binkmeisterRick** » Wed Mar 17, 2010 7:50 pm

Nice seeing you frequent these halls again, dawg!

Do I sense the beginning of a jacket bromance here?

Indydawg · Post by **Indydawg** » Wed Mar 17, 2010 8:02 pm

Seems so

Thanks, Bink...much appreciated!

Post by **Michaelson** » Thu Mar 18, 2010 8:31 am

bromance

Isn't that something you take for an upset stomach?

Regards! Michaelson

binkmeisterRick · Post by **binkmeisterRick** » Thu Mar 18, 2010 8:54 am

Something like that.

Indydawg · Post by **Indydawg** » Thu Mar 18, 2010 9:25 am

Hatch · Post by **Hatch** » Thu Mar 18, 2010 10:37 am

Dawg, any chance of some pics of that 10 yr old goat jacket? ....all would enjoy seeing a 'well lived in' one........and to see how it compares to the current offerings.......thanks

Post by **Holt** » Thu Mar 18, 2010 10:40 am

_ wrote:Someday, the producers of one of those "Intervention" cable shows is going to discover this place...

Yep - placing Holt and Dawg in close proximity might create a force that will result in the death of hundreds of farm animals, i.e. cows, goats and sheep...

Why do I hear "Surrey with a fringe on top" in the back of my head?

Indydawg · Post by **Indydawg** » Thu Mar 18, 2010 10:57 am

"Dawg, any chance of some pics of that 10 yr old goat jacket? ....all would enjoy seeing a 'well lived in' one........and to see how it compares to the current offerings.......thanks"

Absolutely...as soon as I get my hands on it (should be in a week or so...unless I can get my nephew to get his butt down to the Post Office and come off the money to mail it to me), I'll get some very detailed pics up.

It really does look good...and it will be good to have a Wested again....one that I know Peter personally made to my specific instructions and which turned out...well...perfectly!

Regards!
Indydawg

Post by **Holt** » Thu Mar 18, 2010 11:03 am

I cant wait to see it as I too have a goatskin.

the new mid dark soft thin goatskin Peter offers today.

I dont know if you have seen it? my thread is here somewhere... its raiders tho...

dont know if you have seen my wested LC either?

Indydawg · Post by **Indydawg** » Thu Mar 18, 2010 11:22 am

Nope....but I'd love to!

Post by **Holt** » Thu Mar 18, 2010 11:52 am

http://indygear.com/cow/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=36422
this is the raiders goat.

and this is my LC jacket from 2008. made with my old set of LC specs.

Indydawg · Post by **Indydawg** » Thu Mar 18, 2010 7:32 pm

Dude....those look awesome!

RCSignals · Post by **RCSignals** » Thu Mar 18, 2010 8:18 pm

Holt's jacket does look good. But you won't get one like it from Wested by just ordering a Last Crusade jacket.