My short review on a Todd's standard xxl. ****PICS****

RCSignals · Post by **RCSignals** » Sun Dec 20, 2009 4:49 pm

RaidersBash wrote:
crismans wrote:

Someone has mentioned that the sleeve seam now meets the yoke seam instead of 1 inch below it on the new jackets. Is this the case or is the seam still one inch below?

The sleeve seem and yoke seem meet together on the jacket I just bought.

As I said before, odd they would make that change

RaidersBash · Post by **RaidersBash** » Sun Dec 20, 2009 10:49 pm

I also compared it to my 10 year old wested goat, and the seams line up on that one as well.

RCSignals · Post by **RCSignals** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 12:08 am

RaidersBash wrote:I also compared it to my 10 year old wested goat, and the seams line up on that one as well.

That's Wested's usual pattern, just not the same as the movie jacket.

Todd's had it right the first time

crismans · Post by **crismans** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 11:53 am

Thanks _! Now, just to clarify this in my mind. Both jackets were based in whole/part (I believe you said in the past that Todd had pretty much solidified his specs but tweaked them after conferring with you, please correct me if I'm wrong on this) on the specs of the jacket you examined?

So, the jacket you examined didn't have the yoke seam meet the sleeve seam, correct? So at least one jacket didn't have the sleeve seam an inch below feature. Did you believe that this was a stunt jacket?

crismans · Post by **crismans** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 12:48 pm

Got you. So it was just another of the well-known "variables" between jackets.

In that context, Todd's new pattern is just as SA as his old one then.

Satipo · Post by **Satipo** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 1:03 pm

But what about that bit of the collar-stand that sticks out beyond the collar on the wearer's right side? Could that have been a feature on the original?

RaidersBash · Post by **RaidersBash** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 1:24 pm

Satipo wrote:But what about that bit of the collar-stand that sticks out beyond the collar on the wearer's right side? Could that have been a feature on the original?

Holt would probably know for certain, but I've looked at a few photos and it does look like on the screen jacket that the collar does run all the way over to the zipper seam edge.

RCSignals · Post by **RCSignals** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 4:01 pm

I understand that Flight suits and Todd never actually examined a jacket themselves.

Perhaps Todd will chime in about this change. I wonder if it was accidental by is jacket maker? The 'normal' thing for a jacket maker to do is align those seams if there is an upper back panel.
It's just not what was done on the jaclet seen on screen.

RCSignals · Post by **RCSignals** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 4:04 pm

RaidersBash wrote:
Satipo wrote:But what about that bit of the collar-stand that sticks out beyond the collar on the wearer's right side? Could that have been a feature on the original?
Holt would probably know for certain, but I've looked at a few photos and it does look like on the screen jacket that the collar does run all the way over to the zipper seam edge.

I think that could be just the way the jacket maker does it. Wings jackets do the same "that bit of the collar-stand that sticks out beyond the collar on the wearer's right side"

crismans · Post by **crismans** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 9:54 pm

Spoke with Todd today as I was curious (and probably will be in the market for a standard in the next little while). He said that the manufacturer of the jacket lined the seams up on this batch (even though they had always included the inch space before). He said that this would be corrected for the next shipment he receives.

Post by **Holt** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 9:59 pm

did he say anything about the right collar side?

RCSignals · Post by **RCSignals** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 11:20 pm

Thanks for checking that crismans. Just what I suspected, accidental by the jacket maker.

Puppetboy · Post by **Puppetboy** » Tue Dec 22, 2009 2:16 pm

Holt,

I'm glad you like the jacket! It's always nice to hear.

The short story on design detail changes is this: the factory overlooks things and I don't find out before I pick them up at the loading dock.

The first sample I sent had the cut in handwarmer. They were manufactured with a patch pocket because they felt it was better.

The second to last order was made with proper back seams, but patch pockets.

The last order they forgot the back seam "mis-alignment", but made the cut-in pockets correctly. They also used even better leather (by "better" I mean more wrinkly and "raidersy"). They also mis-aligned the collar/stand. On the plus side, I made some small changes to the pattern, including changing the length of the bottom corner to armpit on the front panels (this affects how much the collar rides back when the jacket is zipped), I widened the sleeve back to my original width, (closer to _'s measurements and Tony Nowak's) and that's about it. I think they fit a little better.

I won't be placing a new order for jackets for some time. I've got a good number on hand. When I do, I will be sure to address all of these details with the factory to refresh their memory. One problem is that I re-order so infrequently, that things like this get forgotten.

So far, every batch of jackets has had this or that not-quite-right in my opinion. I'm always trying to move toward the "perfect" (not the "nicest") Indy jacket.

As for the color, fuller's earth somehow makes dark brown look more like black.

crismans · Post by **crismans** » Tue Dec 22, 2009 3:07 pm

What's up with these factories trying to align seams and such like this is a normal jacket?

Thanks for the update. I still think yours is one of the most SA out there.

Toht · Post by **Toht** » Sun Jan 03, 2010 9:00 pm

Toht wrote:What is the back length of that jacket? Does anyone know if the new XL is longer or shorter than that one?

So an update on length comparisons in case anyone is interested...

back lengths:
XL - 25"
XXL-A : 25 3/4"
XXL-B : 26 "

so the XXL-A is smaller in every dimension than the XL, except has a longer body length.

cheers

Chamorro · Post by **Chamorro** » Mon Jan 18, 2010 10:52 am

Could someone post the measurements,in inches, of:

*The sleeve length from shoulder seam to end of cuff

*The chest, pit to pit, jacket zipped and laid flat

*The shoulder from base of neck to shoulder seam

On both the XL and XXL-A, please. I'm having a hard time with the "up to" measurements.

Thanks!

Toht · Post by **Toht** » Mon Jan 18, 2010 11:25 pm

Chamorro wrote:Could someone post the measurements,in inches, of:

*The sleeve length from shoulder seam to end of cuff

*The chest, pit to pit, jacket zipped and laid flat

*The shoulder from base of neck to shoulder seam

On both the XL and XXL-A, please. I'm having a hard time with the "up to" measurements.

Thanks!

I know what you mean... does "up to 48" mean someone that measures 48 could squeeze in, but it would look painted on? or does it mean the chest is 4-5 inches larger than 48? people here have been saying the XXL-a is a good fit for a 44, so I don't see how that sizing plays in at all.. guess I'll just have to order one and see if it fits;)

Chamorro · Post by **Chamorro** » Mon Jan 18, 2010 11:38 pm

Yes but is it a good fit for a 44 long (which I am)? Anybody? Bueller?

RaidersBash · Post by **RaidersBash** » Mon Jan 18, 2010 11:52 pm

I think Todd could help you best. If you gave him your exact measurements I bet he could probably hook you up with the right one the first time. He's a Professional, and has some very talented people working under him as well.

Chamorro · Post by **Chamorro** » Tue Jan 19, 2010 12:04 am

I'd rather have actual measurements of the jacket so that I can determine whether or not it fits my body. No one, no matter how good they are, can fit you, sight unseen, over the phone. Nobody knows what fits better on you ... than you. Just need real measurements to make a decision. Anybody? Bueller?

RCSignals · Post by **RCSignals** » Tue Jan 19, 2010 1:10 am

If you are a 44L, you may have a problem with the sleeves. Best to check with Todd.

Many people who think they are a 'long' actually are not, but need the sleeve length, leaving a 'long' actually too long in the body. It's more noticeable in fitted garments that require a specific waist location fit.
That may not be your case and you may well be a true 'long' though

edited for spelling

Chamorro · Post by **Chamorro** » Tue Jan 19, 2010 1:48 am

6'3"
16.5 X 37 shirts

Yeah, I'm a long

Chamorro · Post by **Chamorro** » Tue Jan 19, 2010 1:50 am

Thanks for the tip BTW, RC

Toht · Post by **Toht** » Tue Jan 19, 2010 3:05 am

Chamorro wrote:I'd rather have actual measurements of the jacket so that I can determine whether or not it fits my body. No one, no matter how good they are, can fit you, sight unseen, over the phone. Nobody knows what fits better on you ... than you. Just need real measurements to make a decision. Anybody? Bueller?

since the sizing has changed, if you search for sizing info on these jackets, you have to watch the time stamps as the posts from '08 and early '09 are all refering to the old sizing from what I can tell... the only 'old' size left is the xxl-a which used to be the old xxl. I did some searching on this forum and found this:

Here are the actual measurements: xxl - a

Zip/storm flap - 22 1/4
Neck - 18 3/4
Back (across, at seam) - 20 1/4
Back length (bottom of colar stand to finish) - 26 1/4
Shoulder (at seam) - 8
Sleeve (from shoulder seam) - 25 1/2
Total sleeve length - ~36
Storm flap width - 1 1/2
Collar - 3 (to tip)
Pocket - 6 1/2 wide X 7 1/2 tall

The new XL has 1/2inch longer sleeves, a few extra inches in the chest, and is shorter by 3/4" in the length.

hope that helps.

Post by **Holt** » Thu Feb 04, 2010 8:42 am

okay guys. alittle update. heres is the Todd standard Lambskin jacket with the rest of the gear.

edit:
I took away that God awfull mirror image gear picture of me. here is a better one.

RaidersBash · Post by **RaidersBash** » Thu Feb 04, 2010 9:59 am

Jacket looks good Holt. Are you still as excited about it as you were when you got it? I'm keep wearing mine everyday and it just keeps looking better and better.

Post by **Holt** » Thu Feb 04, 2010 10:15 am

yes I am! its a very nice jacket. when I put on the jacket with the gear and new soc hat I feel raiders.

I just now dusted the jacket down with fullers and man! it became even more raiders.

RaidersBash · Post by **RaidersBash** » Thu Feb 04, 2010 10:48 am

yeah...that's kinda how i feel about mine. i can wear it with anything and it just "feels" right. I love the way it moves and drapes and once i put it on, it infuses me with that "spirit" of adventure! hard to believe that a jacket can do that!

generalFROSTY · Post by **generalFROSTY** » Mon Feb 08, 2010 3:59 pm

RaidersBash wrote:yeah...that's kinda how i feel about mine. i can wear it with anything and it just "feels" right. I love the way it moves and drapes and once i put it on, it infuses me with that "spirit" of adventure! hard to believe that a jacket can do that!

I couldn't agree more! As soon as I put my Todd's on, I knew right away THIS was the jacket I wanted - the look and feel of it, and best of all the way it drapes and moves is Raiders all the way! Even to gearheads who are NOT on a budget I would recommend getting one of these - it's a GREAT Raiders jacket in its own right and really completes the look. It's a testament to how commited Todd is to providing items that not only look accurate but are a superb value too. Once I have the time (I hope real SOON!) I will be able to get some nice photos of me wearing my new Todd's jacket. I'm also waiting on a new strap from Wade so once I have that it will be time for some updated gear pics - enough thanks cannot be given to Holt and Raidersbash - you guys were my inspiration and I am very pleased that I fallowed your recommendations for this item!

RaidersBash · Post by **RaidersBash** » Mon Feb 08, 2010 4:35 pm

Frosty...i saw briefly your thread about distressing, but i didn't have an answer but i didn't respond. did you find a solution?

generalFROSTY · Post by **generalFROSTY** » Mon Feb 08, 2010 9:16 pm

RaidersBash wrote:Frosty...i saw briefly your thread about distressing, but i didn't have an answer but i didn't respond. did you find a solution?

I think I am done distressing it by hand (with the sand paper) I didn't want to push my luck and risk overdoing it. Some Fullers Earth brushed on the seams really brings the whole thing together.
I think I will be able to form a better judgement once I have some pics taken with me wearing it (with and without fullers earth applied), share those pics here and then get some opinions.
To each his own - and I truly LOVE my Todd's standard - it really is EVERYTHING I didn't even know I wanted in a Raiders jacket. I'm pretty happy to be a part of the 'Todd's Standard Owners Club'

Noah · Post by **Noah** » Mon Feb 08, 2010 9:41 pm

generalFROSTY wrote:
RaidersBash wrote:yeah...that's kinda how i feel about mine. i can wear it with anything and it just "feels" right. I love the way it moves and drapes and once i put it on, it infuses me with that "spirit" of adventure! hard to believe that a jacket can do that!
I couldn't agree more! As soon as I put my Todd's on, I knew right away THIS was the jacket I wanted - the look and feel of it, and best of all the way it drapes and moves is Raiders all the way! Even to gearheads who are NOT on a budget I would recommend getting one of these - it's a GREAT Raiders jacket in its own right and really completes the look. It's a testament to how commited Todd is to providing items that not only look accurate but are a superb value too. Once I have the time (I hope real SOON!) I will be able to get some nice photos of me wearing my new Todd's jacket. I'm also waiting on a new strap from Wade so once I have that it will be time for some updated gear pics - enough thanks cannot be given to Holt and Raidersbash - you guys were my inspiration and I am very pleased that I fallowed your recommendations for this item!

It really is a great jacket! It fits and drapes and moves just like it did in Raiders

Post by **Holt** » Mon Feb 08, 2010 9:55 pm

generalFROSTY wrote:
I think I am done distressing it by hand (with the sand paper) I didn't want to push my luck and risk overdoing it.

less is more. nothing more to say on that

generalFROSTY · Post by **generalFROSTY** » Mon Feb 08, 2010 11:59 pm

Indiana Holt wrote:
generalFROSTY wrote:
I think I am done distressing it by hand (with the sand paper) I didn't want to push my luck and risk overdoing it.
less is more. nothing more to say on that

Post by **Holt** » Tue Feb 09, 2010 10:07 am

update,

Im absolutley loving this jacket. the leather has changed since I got it. it has relaxed more and has become even more drapy. absolutley raiders leather. it has grained very much in the style of the raiders grain. the leather has also been soaked a few times now and it really has toughend the leather up. it feels stronger.

here is a picture I took 5 minutes ago. sorry I know. bad quality. took it with my cell. but you get the idea

generalFROSTY · Post by **generalFROSTY** » Tue Feb 09, 2010 4:16 pm

You look like you're built to kick MOD EDIT and not bother taking names!
I am happy how my jacket has that slim fit - I rolled the sleeves up to where I wanted them, based on stills from the movie, they come to just a tad below my wrists when my arms are at my side. The collar also rests just the way it does on screen.

Post by **Holt** » Tue Feb 09, 2010 6:45 pm

your right. im not taking any names..... and Im not taking any skirting the word filter either.

RCSignals · Post by **RCSignals** » Tue Feb 09, 2010 8:25 pm

There is skirting in the word filter?

generalFROSTY · Post by **generalFROSTY** » Tue Feb 09, 2010 11:53 pm

Never needed to use any 'language' to test it out before.
Why do they call it skirting anyway?

Raskolnikov · Post by **Raskolnikov** » Wed Feb 10, 2010 1:30 am

That jacket looks so much raiderish! Congratulations again.

Post by **Holt** » Wed Feb 10, 2010 7:00 am

generalFROSTY wrote:Never needed to use any 'language' to test it out before.

well, you just did. if see your last post you have a ''MOD EDIT'' right next to kick. thats going around the filter and thats something we dont allow.

end of case.

Adventure Dog · Post by **Adventure Dog** » Thu Feb 11, 2010 1:10 pm

Well Holt. You've convinced me. That jacket looks phenomenal on you, and I wish I had one. Whenever I get around to it, I'm ordering a Todd's Jacket. Hopefully I'm the right dimensions so it'll look good on me (though I don't have your Bruce Lee physique).

Thanks for the great review!

Post by **Holt** » Thu Feb 11, 2010 1:28 pm

Thanx man.

be sure to post pictures of your jacket when you got it. and when you have it just wear it in all the elements the world can offer. it will do wonders for the leather. I love this jacket.

generalFROSTY · Post by **generalFROSTY** » Thu Feb 11, 2010 9:37 pm

Do we know why a distressed Todd's shows gray instead of a lighter brown like on other jackets? Perhaps it is the leather type or dye used for the leather?
If outside didn't look so much like Hoth right now, I would be getting some nice pics of me in my standard. Looks like you sold another member on the idea of getting one, Holt - good job! These really are great Raiders jackets. Sure, they haven't pleased everyone, but thankfully this hobby has many vendor choices. I'm really happy I went with Todd's. Cost effective and highly accurate.

DeWayne · Post by **DeWayne** » Thu Feb 11, 2010 10:29 pm

There are several iterations of the Todd's standard and the different leathers used seem to distress in different ways. A few of mine distress grey-ish, and some distress in a brown color. There were different hardwares used too. The ones that had the nickel zips, and extra heavy-duty snaps in the pockets (which are too heavy-duty and will pull right through the leather) distress in a very brown color.

generalFROSTY · Post by **generalFROSTY** » Thu Feb 11, 2010 10:33 pm

Not to get too off topic here (sorry Holt) but I had thought of using a sponge or brush dipped in brown leather dye and 'color over' the grey distressed areas - primarily the seams in which I had distressed.

DeWayne · Post by **DeWayne** » Thu Feb 11, 2010 10:50 pm

Personally I don't think it's a bad thing. Whether by artificial tricks of light and the camera or actuality, there are plenty of times in "Raiders" where the distressing has a grey-ish look to it.

Post by **Holt** » Fri Feb 12, 2010 6:52 am

yep. im with dewayne.

or just get some brown pecards.

id rather not have my thread turn into a artificial distress thread. we have a whole section devoted for that.

generalFROSTY · Post by **generalFROSTY** » Fri Feb 12, 2010 11:24 pm

Indiana Holt wrote:yep. im with dewayne.

or just get some brown pecards.

id rather not have my thread turn into a artificial distress thread. we have a whole section devoted for that.

Holt, have you had a chance to check out my pics I posted of my Todd's??
Thanks for the advice. And my apologies for taking the thread off track.
I have A.D.D (I really do!)
What would you do for a Klondike Bar?
See what I mean?!