To follow up on a retailer ordering hats from a factory. And this is good info, to keep in mind.
Ok, if I were to order from any number of hat factories, generally speaking, and if I am after a fedora type hat, they will give me a choice of the crowns they offer. And generally, they have their own factory notation, such as A crown, B crown, etc. Each represents a particular crown shape, and these days these offerings are not as diverse as long ago. So, the A crown could be a 4 inch crown, after factory creases were put in. B could be a tapered taller crown, C could be a straighter shorter crown, D could be a taller straighter crown, and so on.
Now, if HJ wanted the Poet, or something similiar, they would specify which crown the factory offered, that would be close to what the Poet was.
Back when Lee and I were tinkering with his blocks at Beaver Brands, they did not have one that was like the CS fedora. It was not something they offered. So, I sent one in to them. They copied it for Lee, and now use it for his hats.
Now granted, HJ COULD have done something like this. But, where did that block come from? They would still have it. With all of the changes at HJ, I seriously doubt, they ever sent a block to anyone. I think they used what a particular factory had, that was "close". And this would of course account for the various HJs I have seen over the years. I have seen em' from a 5 inch open crown, all the way to 6!! And, there is a slight difference in what they sell now, in shape, compared to what they sold 10 years ago. I have some pics on a cd somewhere, if I can find it, that shows a new HJ from the Swales era. This was when they were using a stiffer, LC type felt. The profile view of this hat is totally different to the current ones. That is etched in my memory, such as it is. So, I know the block has varied just a bit, over the years.
In so far as being biased. Heck, I can't see it. My interest, along with others is, or was, to just make the most accurate looking Raider fedora. We are copycats. And I don't mind saying that. Involved in this of course is perception, and perceptions can vary a bit from person to person. But, with that said, I think most can see that some hats just don't seem to pull off that look as well as others. And then you have those inconsistences from hat to hat, from the same factory. I have seen alot of that. Some look decent, with the right stylist working on it, and some from the same folks just fall short, even with a good stylist working on the creases. Or the hat may look good from the side, but not good from the front, etc. I can make some hats look good from one angle, but it does not follow through when you look at the hat 360. This is due to the block not being in the ballpark. Now, I do know several different blocks work really well, but these same blocks share alot of similarities. They are more alike than different, and have only small nuances in difference. All of these go staight up on the sides, to a particular point. The point will vary, and this is the nuance. From that point on, you can have a radius, or you can have a little taper and then a radius. And honestly, I don't know which manner works the best. They all look very similiar once you crease the hats.
This fact is what has confused me, and finally made me just say, "oh shucks" and give up. IF I can't see much difference in this, I doubt others will be able to. So, I went the direction away from others, just to be DIFFERENT. Not better, just different. My sanity is back, and that is the important thing to me.
Now, if a real deal Raiders block, makes it to my shop, I will of course, have it replicated and will use it. I would be foolish not to do so. But, I ain't holding my breath.
One thing is good about this discussion. We are ALL still intently interested in this Raiders fedora. I know I am. And perhaps it is best we never shine the bright light of truth upon how this hat came to be, the whole story. Part of its attraction is the mystique involved. Perhaps D. L. knows this as well.
I wonder IF she knows just how her creation has caused such a ruckus, over the years? And how much many of us really appreciate her vision? If not, someone needs to tell her! Fedora
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You are an HJ fan, through thick and thin. Nothing wrong with that either. Fans are fans. Kinda like our American football fans. You always pull for, and support your fav team, no matter how bad they are in a particular season.
Swales had no one bugging the @#$% out of him and he seemed to have a lot of fun that day speaking with us and answering my goofy questions. He even gave my dad a hat for free that day. No kidding.
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