You know I looked into training as a boxer a couple of years ago, but I would have had to quit within a year because of the age restriction cutoffs at 33. Anyway, I digress...
neutronbomb wrote: Can you describe the details of the training to get it to look like the "temple" jacket collar.
So the three things you did different on this jacket vs the straight up "hawaii" jacket is have the sleeves a bit longer, round off the collar stand/top stormflap edge, and downsize the pockets.
1. If that's the case, then it sounds like nothing was done to the collar itself or the tips of the collar. Does this mean your jackets collar is the standard TN "Hawaii" jacket collar that he makes and the only thing that makes it the "temple" version of the jacket is the "training"? If so, this seems very insightful. It would mean all you have to do to get a "temple" jacket is round of the collar stand/top stormflap edge and train the collar.
3. Is it really that easy to go from the "Hawaii" jacket to the "Temple" jacket by having TN simply round off the collar stand? All the back and forth on the collar on some of the different threads and the only real difference between the Hawaii jacket and temple jacket is a rounded stormflap edge and a trained collar. Please explain on how to train the collar for a "Hawaii" jacket look vs. a "temple" jacket look. I guess if your wanted the mismatched collar tips you could throw that in there to, but it sounds like as far as the way the collar itself works there is really no difference between the "hawaii" and "temple" except for training
Yep, that's right. And I think that it's quite possible the whole "one pointed, one rounded" is an illusion. It may not be, but the way that collar curves makes it achievable without wonky sewing.
OK, SO - The real "TRICK" is to wet down the collar, and make sure the stormflap side is moulded and bent how it should be. With my Nowak, it was pretty much like this anyway. I just had to kink the stormflap so that it has a definite bend rather than a curve OOTB.
THEN - to create the long, droopy side, take the collar edge and line it up to where the stand hits the shoulder seam. Then crease the collar to folded edge into place. You have to get the angle right when doing this. If you do, the whole shape you see in the movie just pops in there. You have to keep rolling, training it is it dries to get it to stay.
Once you do this, and see it in 3D, you can see how the nature of the way those lapels sit lends itself to an illusion of mismatched points.
DISCLAIMER: You may well only get the effect right with the Nowak-sized collar. It's got some wacky angles / dimensions. Also, the shrunken lamb gives it the right look via the texture and the way it lies - completely different lamb to what I've felt before. Also, Tony even put the patch of texture on the correct side of the collar that makes this inverse/converse collar look work and match the movie. Just awesome, and I didn't expect that.
neutronbomb wrote:2. How much did you downsize the pockets?
Not much - to 7.5 x 6.25. I got Tony to keep them in the same front/centre spots and remove .25 off both the height of the flap and off the pocket itself to even out the ratios so I wouldn't end up with one of the other disproportionate balances that are out there (and no, not talking about Dutch's thread)
neutronbomb wrote:I love how you have popped the collar in the back, but it curves back at the half way point. It's rare to see someone achieve that particular look with the collar. Super cool.
Thanks. And you know what? It's another of many little things that I didn't even notice it was doing this until I saw the photos. I just popped the collar and it kind of crumple/stands identically. Again, cool stuff, and it just seems it's because of the particular way the shrunken lamb behaves because of it's properties and thickness, and of course, the cut and training.