So, on the advice of Michaelson in the "Damage" thread (no pun intended again), so as not to lose this knowledge to being buried alive in another thread, I would like to initiate the discussion of the merits of the threads used for sewing in sweatbands & ribbons. Not only the threads themselves and their color choices, but maybe even the needles used & the stitching methods & possibly photos showing the stitching that each maker uses for the different items on the hat (i.e. lock stitch). Like how does one sew in the liner without fully penetrating the felt on the outside? does it take a special kind of needle? That would be interesting to see.Fedora wrote:But back to the stitches. I may put an extra one if I think it is needed, and I try not to use the same holes as previous ones. This rabbit felt is weak, so you have to tailor your stitches so they don't pull loose, which means depending upon the "feel" I may add another. But I go through the ribbon and felt 6 times on the stitches that secure the ends of the bow to the hat. And I use braided nylon thread for strength. Fedora(btw steve - 3 stitches on the corner of the bow? i use 2 that are directly on top of each other......less to look at when you examine the hat under a magnifying glass which i'm sure everyone does
What is the color used? From the discussion it sounds like normal upholstery thread, am I wrong on this account? Is there only one great source for this or does any upholstery store carry this particular braided nylon thread?Fedora wrote:Yeah, but really strong thread, and being nylon, it isn't as suceptable to rot from sweat. It is upholstery thread actually, that I buy online. I recall sending Optimo 2 brand new Federations years ago for him to reblock with the block he was using for his Indy hats. I was shocked to see how someone removed the sweats. They just grabbed them and ripped them out! The reeding tape that you sew through was in really bad shape due to this method. I had requested that he re use the same sweats since I like em, and they were brand new. I often dream about someone sending him an AB, and would love to be a fly on the wall when whoever it was, grabbed my sweat and tried to just rip it out! That dog wouldn't hunt.braided nylon thread.......WOW........that is serious stuff.We try to use materials that are very durable, even down to the type of thread.
If an AB owner ever finds himself in a survival situation, you could removed the single long braided nylon thread that holds the sweat in, and use it for fishing line!! Since I use lock stitches to secure the sweats in, there is about 3 feet of nylon line there under that sweatband. Or, a great snare line as well. Might hold a rabbit! Fedora
How did you come upon the idea of using this instead of regular thread or even quilting thread? Would love to hear the methods to your madness.
Oh, Steve, when you say lock stitch is it similar to the saddle stitching that is used in sewing leather together?
Well folks, thank you in advance for any contributions to this discussion. Always eager to learn & see more.
Cheers & Happy Hatting!!
Dan
On to the next subject I suppose. 
................for a reblock, i sew in a string 'tab' at the front of the brim as close to center as i can for when i do a reblock. on a dimensional cut, you want to ensure that you are blocking it correctly and that the front is on the front........a couple of times when i didn't do this, i got incorrect dimensions on the brim after i tied it on to the block........the front was probably laying somewhere on the 2,5,8, or 11 o'clock position 
.........another 'test' body was born.........
