ToD vs. 80's Fit

Tyrloch · Post by **Tyrloch** » Mon Dec 15, 2008 4:37 pm

In the same size, which has the snugger/slimmer fit -- the 80's fit ROTLA jackets or the new Wested ToD jackets? My initial concern with ordering a ToD was the snug sleeves, but if it is snugger in the chest as well, then maybe it would be better to order one size up? Any input on this? Thanks.

~Jace

RCSignals · Post by **RCSignals** » Mon Dec 15, 2008 4:48 pm

In the 40 it isn't snug in the chest, but the yoke bottom seem you can feel across the back when moving your arms forward. It did seem to stretch out some on mine though.

My 40 from side seam to side seam just under the arm is 23.5".

As for comparison with '80s cut' I can't help.

Tyrloch · Post by **Tyrloch** » Mon Dec 15, 2008 6:34 pm

My 80's fit in 40R was so tight (leather wetsuit), that I had to sell it and buy a 42R with the 80's fit to replace it. However, aN OTR 40R seems to fit me just fine. So I'm wondering if it's going to be the same with the ToD's -- maybe I should order a 42R from the start...

~Jace

Kevin Anderson · Post by **Kevin Anderson** » Mon Dec 15, 2008 6:59 pm

If these TOD jackets ever start to appear, hopefully someone who owns or has owned a 80's fit jacket can compare. I wear a 42, so I ordered a 42 in the TOD. Didn't even consider the snugness factor at first. All of my jackets have been LC, and therefore almost baggy. Will I be in for a surprise with the Temple jacket, I wonder?

PLATON · Post by **PLATON** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 4:57 am

My 80's fit in 40R was so tight (leather wetsuit), that I had to sell it and buy a 42R with the 80's fit to replace it. However, aN OTR 40R seems to fit me just fine. So I'm wondering if it's going to be the same with the ToD's -- maybe I should order a 42R from the start...

~Jace

Still wondering the same.

Texan Scott · Post by **Texan Scott** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 10:36 am

Back in '01, I ordered a 42 Regular, and it was too tight, so I had to return it for a 44 Reg. That jacket disappeared due to sticky fingers. Just a few weeks ago, I ordered an authentic brown lamb and washed goat in a 46 Reg. To me, the torso and sleeves are too wide, so I'm now wondering what 'cut' of the jacket will be the best fit for me. Based on your posts, it sounds like I need a 46 in an 80's cut? I included my measurements of chest and waist, but was told they do not taper the jacket. Jacket length is perfect. Any input would be appreciated.

What I can say, between '01 to now, is it seems that quality and choice of hides have really seemed to improve.

knibs7 · Post by **knibs7** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 11:19 am

Does anyone have any pics of an 80s Wested?

Nibs

Post by **Michaelson** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 11:20 am

Texan Scott wrote: What I can say, between '01 to today, is it seems that quality and choice of hides have improved.

You can thank the fans for that, TS. Our only choice back then was either lambskin or cowhide. We kept asking for changes, and they finally came, as we voted with our wallets. ;-)

Regards! Michaelson

Imahomer · Post by **Imahomer** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 3:12 pm

Well Michaelson... Money does speak!

binkmeisterRick · Post by **binkmeisterRick** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 3:14 pm

Imahomer wrote:Well Michaelson... Money does speak!

Of course it does. Didn't you know I was a money whisperer?

Browncoat · Post by **Browncoat** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 3:31 pm

I had an 80's fit RotLA special at the beginning of the year. I really didn't like the fit as it was tight at the shoulders, armholes and biceps and if I recall correctly may have actually had padding at the shoulders as well. The jacket was also fuller at the waist and longer.

I think the 80's fit is backwards when it comes to the Raiders jacket. The Raiders was full at the shoulder and chest but slimmer and shorter at the waist.

Tyrloch · Post by **Tyrloch** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 6:41 pm

Browncoat wrote:

"The Raiders was full at the shoulder and chest but slimmer and shorter at the waist."

That's the Exact fit I'm been trying to get in every jacket I order. But every time I reequest something like a tapered back panel, or something else to achieve this, I always seem to get a "sorry, can't do that." Why is it so difficult to get one mod that'll enhance the fit of the jacket?

Indiana G · Post by **Indiana G** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 6:48 pm

Tyrloch wrote:Browncoat wrote:

"The Raiders was full at the shoulder and chest but slimmer and shorter at the waist."

That's the Exact fit I'm been trying to get in every jacket I order. But every time I reequest something like a tapered back panel, or something else to achieve this, I always seem to get a "sorry, can't do that." Why is it so difficult to get one mod that'll enhance the fit of the jacket?

it's not. call tony nowak ;-)

Tyrloch · Post by **Tyrloch** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 6:52 pm

Thanks, but not to knock Tony's jackets, for I think they look nice, I can't really justify spending a grand just to get a tapered back panel...I could probably con a tailor into tapering it on an already made jacket for less than $100. I would rather have the jacket made right the first time if possible, though...

What I'm saying is that I like the quality of Wested's jacket, but it sometimes seems a bit difficult to get a minor request added to the order. Unless it has something to do with Gemma answering my emails and not Peter himself -- I've heard that he's a little more responsive to requests...

~Jace

RCSignals · Post by **RCSignals** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 7:44 pm

Tyrloch wrote:Browncoat wrote:

"The Raiders was full at the shoulder and chest but slimmer and shorter at the waist."

That's the Exact fit I'm been trying to get in every jacket I order. But every time I reequest something like a tapered back panel, or something else to achieve this, I always seem to get a "sorry, can't do that." Why is it so difficult to get one mod that'll enhance the fit of the jacket?

how much have you spent on jackets so far?

Texan Scott · Post by **Texan Scott** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 7:46 pm

A thousand Indy bucks will go a long way, but does it take $1,000 worth of leather to wrap around that pooch?

Tyrloch · Post by **Tyrloch** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 7:53 pm

To date, I started with my first Wested about 8 years ago. It was a 40R that I only specified sleeve and back length. The sleeves were a bit too short, and the waist was too wide for me. So I sold that and bought another Wested about 3-4 years ago -- another 40R but with the 80's fit. This is the one that I refer to as the leather wetsuit. Needless to say, I sold this one also to buy a 42R with the 80's fit about a year & a half ago. This one fit pretty good when I wanted to wear a fleece vest or a heavy sweater underneath, but felt a bit big with only a shirt under it. At this same time, I had also bought a Todd's custom and a used G&B goatskin. The Todd's had sleeves that always felt too short, so I sold it a few months ago. The G&B fit really nice -- the onlt reasons I sold it were because it was the lighter brown (seal?), and I needed the money. And now I have one Wested -- it's an OTR washed goatskin that I bought off of Whiskyman about a month ago. This fit on this jacket is pretty good, but that looseness around the waist is still there. I was hoping to pick up one of these ToD's thinking that the slimmer back would take car of the snugger feel I was looking for at the waist....I just don't know if the 40R is going to wind up too tight in the chest, and that I would be better off with a 42R...

~Jace

RCSignals · Post by **RCSignals** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 8:03 pm

In that case, other than the sleeves maybe, the 40 ToD should be OK for you.
Mine has 'stretched' to the point it feels much better. I'd still like the sleeves a touch larger from the shoulder through the elbow though. The cuff end size is fine.

RCSignals · Post by **RCSignals** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 8:04 pm

Texan Scott wrote:A thousand Indy bucks will go a long way, but does it take $1,000 worth of leather to wrap around that pooch?

I'll find out in the new year. ;-)

Texan Scott · Post by **Texan Scott** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 8:04 pm

That's been the dilema I've been in. It would be nice to give chest and waist measurements, and to have the jacket made accordingly. If it is possible to get a Wested made this way, or if a certain style number, etc., tends to fit that way, with a taper to the waist, I'd like to know about it. As for the G&B, probably the most stoutly built jacket out there. Mine has "jacket creep" in reverse. We've experienced jacket 'ride-up', the tendency for an A-2 styled jacket, or something similiar, with a knit waist, to ride up on you. The G&B with the collar, wants to slide away from my neck and shoulders instead of riding closer to the back of the neck. This leads to a somewhat disoriented feeling when wearing it.

Tyrloch · Post by **Tyrloch** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 8:11 pm

In mostly all jackets, a medium or a 40R normally fits just fine, with the exception of sleeves sometimes being a bit long. It's only after my super-tight 80's fit 40R that I worry about a jacket being too tight in the chest. And now the worry about the sleeves being too narrow as well...

Texan Scott · Post by **Texan Scott** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 8:58 pm

What is the word on these Wested 'Special' jackets? The site says:

"Unlike the Standard raiders which has slight modification to make it durable and street wearable this 'film jacket' although equally wearable is more lightweight.

There are no inside leather facings, the body is slimmer and the sleeves more tapered. The zip is a smaller 5 gauge nickel and the action pleat depth is narrower with two piped inside pockets."

Arca Perdida · Post by **Arca Perdida** » Thu Dec 25, 2008 1:19 pm

RCSignals wrote:
My 40 from side seam to side seam just under the arm is 23.5".

Wow, I thought in a 40R that would measure 22" for a total of 44" (4 inches of room above your chest size). Or 21" for an 80's fit.
Just when I thought I knew how in the world those measurements are supposed to work...

Texan Scott · Post by **Texan Scott** » Mon Jan 05, 2009 11:05 am

Something that I found out from Holt was that if you 'custom order', they add 5 inches to the chest, but 4 inches to the Standard.

Hatch · Post by **Hatch** » Mon Jan 05, 2009 11:18 am

Ty I think you've posted elsewhere about lifting weights....Be sure and let them know that you just need the room in the shoulders etc tapering down to your waist........not to harp on it but this is where TN really excells with his experience in fitting athletic physiques.........but the first info may help with other makers .........