where the yoke meets the back panel

Indiana G · Post by **Indiana G** » Sat Nov 08, 2008 12:06 am

a construction 'blooper' on the original hero jacket has the back panel misaligned when it gets to the sleeve seams. there are some supporting screen grabs to this and is also a theory held by todd from his research in recreating the hero jacket.

the left side back panel meets the sleeve at the stitching as so (standard configuration):

the right side back panel is flush to the yoke which means that the back panel overlaps the sleeve stitching at the edge:

i tried getting tony nowak to recreate this.....which he can, but he warned me that you'd be 'stacking' leather at that one point creating a bubble and it would look like an ugly 'bump' on the back. my question is, how was this created as an error without making that portion of the jacket unsightly? was the jacket so distressed that it didn't matter?

regardless, i cancelled this request as i wanted clean lines there.....i would of been happy with misalignment, but if it was not clean, then forget about it.

any thoughts? its not an easy construction procedure when you think about it....i think it would have been easier to cut the back panel to size than to sew it like this in error.

CM · Post by CM » Sat Nov 08, 2008 3:41 am

Have it made even, as if it were a real jacket...

Or do it like the screen capture and get a fragile useless aluminium zip too. Screen accurate...

Mind you, there is screen accurate and there's screen idiocy. ;-)

I wonder what Tony's view on an aluminium zip would be. What's that Tony...? We can't print language like that here, sorry.

Satipo · Post by **Satipo** » Sat Nov 08, 2008 5:46 am

Interesting observations. But I would assume these were two different jackets. I doubt there was one jacket where each side was made as differently as above.

Louisiana Jones · Post by **Louisiana Jones** » Sat Nov 08, 2008 7:07 am

CM wrote: Mind you, there is screen accurate and there's screen idiocy. ;-)

Completely agree!

LJ

Kt Templar · Post by **Kt Templar** » Sat Nov 08, 2008 7:25 am

I have the seams inline on the sleeve seam, doesn't appear to cause any problems, but I do know that it's a pain in the butt to sew because you have so much leather stacked together.

Indiana G · Post by **Indiana G** » Sat Nov 08, 2008 1:50 pm

thanks KT....i got curious myself and my veg tanned lamb has the same construction.......

so, i know it can be done. now i just have to decide if i want that done.

Kt Templar · Post by **Kt Templar** » Sat Nov 08, 2008 1:52 pm

Indiana G wrote:thanks KT....i got curious myself and my veg tanned lamb has the same construction.......

Only one answer is appropriate…

D'oh!

Erri · Post by **Erri** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 6:06 pm

Indiana G wrote: the right side back panel is flush to the yoke which means that the back panel overlaps the sleeve stitching at the edge:

My wested acts in a similar way

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y157/e ... G_6328.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y157/e ... G_6324.jpg

Rundquist · Post by **Rundquist** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 6:09 pm

CM wrote: Mind you, there is screen accurate and there's screen idiocy. ;-)

There's a term that I would like to see incorporated into the Indygear lexicon. Man that’s funny.

indy1936 · Post by **indy1936** » Fri Nov 14, 2008 2:46 pm

I have asked for this feature for all three of my Wested's but they haven't been able to do it yet.

Indiana G · Post by **Indiana G** » Fri Nov 14, 2008 2:50 pm

3 customs and they missed the mark?

that is very strange as i know that they can do this and do it well. it really is a small detail....by about 1/8" actually. its a small detail that requires extra time for in the construction, which is why it got missed, i am assuming.

originally, when i first started this thread, it wasn't really a 'make or break' thing for me. now i must have it......i'm quirky that way......maybe that's why tony hasn't called........hmmmmmmmm

indy1936 · Post by **indy1936** » Fri Nov 14, 2008 2:56 pm

Ya it was really disappointing as it is generally my only custom request.

Rundquist · Post by **Rundquist** » Fri Nov 14, 2008 2:58 pm

Indiana G wrote:3 customs and they missed the mark?

that is very strange as i know that they can do this and do it well. it really is a small detail....by about 1/8" actually. its a small detail that requires extra time for in the construction, which is why it got missed, i am assuming.

originally, when i first started this thread, it wasn't really a 'make or break' thing for me. now i must have it......i'm quirky that way......maybe that's why tony hasn't called........hmmmmmmmm

Anytime you stack leather (especially thick leather) you run the risk of wavy stitching. It’s not hard to see why jacket makers standardize their jackets. I think that’s why you’re paying a grand with a TN.

Erri · Post by **Erri** » Fri Nov 14, 2008 3:07 pm

indy1936 wrote:Ya it was really disappointing as it is generally my only custom request.

I might be wrong, and perhaps Kt can confirm this, but sometimes I think it's due to the size of the jacket and they can't always find a piece of leather large enough to cover all the way.

May I ask what size is your jacket?

Rundquist wrote:that’s why you’re paying a grand with a TN.

Is it really a thousand dollars???

Rundquist · Post by **Rundquist** » Fri Nov 14, 2008 3:16 pm

Erri wrote:
indy1936 wrote:Ya it was really disappointing as it is generally my only custom request.
I might be wrong, and perhaps Kt can confirm this, but sometimes I think it's due to the size of the jacket and they can't always find a piece of leather large enough to cover all the way.

May I ask what size is your jacket?

Rundquist wrote:that’s why you’re paying a grand with a TN.
Is it really a thousand dollars???

That or a kidney! However, for many on this board, that price is a bargain if they finally get their dream jacket.

Erri · Post by **Erri** » Fri Nov 14, 2008 3:19 pm

LOL I believe kidneys are more valuable but still... $1000

that's a MOD EDTI,dont do around the wordfilter!

Anyway back on topic

indy1936 · Post by **indy1936** » Fri Nov 14, 2008 3:34 pm

Erri wrote:
indy1936 wrote:Ya it was really disappointing as it is generally my only custom request.
I might be wrong, and perhaps Kt can confirm this, but sometimes I think it's due to the size of the jacket and they can't always find a piece of leather large enough to cover all the way.

May I ask what size is your jacket?

Rundquist wrote:that’s why you’re paying a grand with a TN.
Is it really a thousand dollars???

This occurred on several jackets ranging from sizes 42 - 46.

Erri · Post by **Erri** » Fri Nov 14, 2008 3:45 pm

Well leathers do not always come in the same sizes, that's my guess. I'm sorry to hear that your only request was missed
When I was at Wested I saw plenty of jackets on the racks without that detail, I got the feeling that Peter didn't give it too much importance because plenty of customers don't even care of that (or either know the difference). Only recently there has been more awareness of this particular detail and I'm sure (and hope) that Peter will listen more carefully to requests of his customers but, afterall, working with leather is not like assembling pre-made pieces of plastic, you also have to deal with the dimensions of the many hides they receive, that's why it's hard for a jacket ordered with the same specs of another to be an exact copy.
In my last jacket I was lucky enough to get the right configuration, it was rather important to me (although I forgot to mention it in my requests) but as I said it is something that I don't think Peter kept in high consideration till a year ago... if not Peter, well whoever makes the jackets in his factory.

I'm just trying to justify Peter a bit here but in the end it's always the customer satisfaction to be of importance. If I received for the last time another jacket with the only requested detail missed once more... well I would have sent it back imediately.

agent5 · Post by **agent5** » Fri Nov 14, 2008 4:11 pm

3 customs and they missed the mark?

I'm surprised anyone is really surprised by this, although Wested has gotten better from what I can tell. There was a time though when it was standard to have various numbers of mods missed. I have been impressed lately by what I've seen overall. Whatever they're doing now they need to keep on doing it.

indy1936 · Post by **indy1936** » Fri Nov 14, 2008 4:20 pm

I am thinking about purchasing another. What is the best way to describe this feature when ordering? Also, does the shoulder measurement start from the side of the neck or the center of the back of the neck? Thanks!

Indiana G · Post by **Indiana G** » Fri Nov 14, 2008 4:33 pm

of all my customs, wested has never missed anything that major....which is why i was surprised.

i can live with my name mispelled on the tag.......

Indiana G · Post by **Indiana G** » Fri Nov 14, 2008 4:35 pm

indy1936 wrote:I am thinking about purchasing another. What is the best way to describe this feature when ordering? Also, does the shoulder measurement start from the side of the neck or the center of the back of the neck? Thanks!

request that back panel extends COMPLETELY to sleeve seam and is in line with the edge of the yoke panel on both sides.

typically the shoulder measurement is from the side of the neck but there are different conventions out there.

where the yoke meets the back panel

where the yoke meets the back panel

Re: where the yoke meets the back panel