Need details on specs for Raiders/LC

Indiana Whit · Post by **Indiana Whit** » Sun Oct 19, 2008 10:22 pm

Hi all, long time lurker finally registered

I'm finalizing my decision on either getting a Westing Raiders jacket - as SA as is humanly possible (tailored after the bar scene or the airplane fight scene)- given those scenes, what exactly should I ask for, if anyone cares to elaborate in as much detail as possible (measurements, pocket size, flaps/pleats measurements, D-Rings, authentic brown?)

I've noticed a lot of Indy jackets have the pockets a little too close or too far from the bottom, or the pocket flap too pointed, etc, etc- I'm no expert on the terminology for jackets, but I know what looks right! Is there anything I'm missing here, as far as details I should include to get it as SA as possible?

Far as measurements, from what I can tell I'm pretty close to exactly the same height/ measurements as Mr. Ford (between 6'1" and 6'2"), about 185-190 lbs, 44" loose chest measurement which from what I can tell is what his CS measurement was, 26" sleeve length ideally, so why not just use what he had, if anyone actually knows what he had for the films, since I'm the same build and everything why not.

The one thing I've never liked about the Raiders jacket is that it's kind of really dark, and in some lights looks black which is my worry while staying as SA as possible. I've already decided on lamb skin (I like the drape and color of authentic brown). I can see that it's a TIGHT jacket, even on Harrison, and I'm in the process of working out and trying to hit 200 so my worry is making it so that I'll eventually be too big around the arms/chest for it. Why spend $300 on a jacket you're going to be too big for? Yet I don't want it baggy so I'll take the chance:P

Anyway, if anyone has full specs I'd appreciate the input here, maybe some screen caps (I have them on VHS or I'd try to upload some)- that or the tank scene in LC if you have info on that design.

Thanks in advance, here's hoping I don't screw up TOO much on my first Wested! (I'm even looking to get the right zipper, buttons, color of aforementioned!) I know it's asking a lot but maybe someone's got it down for those scenes.

CM · Post by CM » Sun Oct 19, 2008 10:28 pm

COntact Holt for the best LC specs you can get - made by Wested for Holt. For Raiders, there are a bunch of posts on this page you could look at. The current view is that the jacket is not tight but a little baggy.

Indiana Strones · Post by **Indiana Strones** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 5:04 am

Why you don't have a look at the other (recent) threads? There is an identical thread posted some days ago:

viewtopic.php?t=34812

Indiana Whit · Post by **Indiana Whit** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 6:46 am

Thanks:P I have had a look around, but things just vary so much in people's take on what we see on screen (and people here of course vary a lot in size) hehe

so I'm wondering on the pocket size, what would you suggest for someone of my height (6'1" or 6'2" thereabouts) and measurements (44" loose measure chest)?...I'm thinking 28" back so I want the pockets to look right.
Is the standard size Westing is using what they had for Harrison's? Again, pretty much same build and height here so I'm figuring what worked for him will for me (unless I gain some weight in the future, let's hope not too much)

Rom Hunter · Post by **Rom Hunter** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 6:49 am

• Size 40
• Raiders style
• Authentic Brown lambskin
• Standard cut
• Cotton Silesia lining for body, pockets AND sleeves
• 5 gauge NICKEL zipper with small zipper pull that extends TO THE BOTTOM of the jacket
• NO leather facing on zipper
• Storm flap should be 1.5” width with ROUNDED top corner
• Standard Raiders collar going HALFWAY the zipper and the storm flap
• PLATON’s pockets 7” x 6.5” with SCALLOPED flaps and nickel snaps
• Side strap length 7”, width 1” with X-BOX pattern, DOUBLE stitched
• Two piece BLACK RECTANGULAR buckles (personally I think this must be a black metal triglide)
• Pleat depth should be 1.5”
• NO side vent stitches
• Arm seam should be 1” BELOW the yoke seam
• Back panel should extend ALL THE WAY OUT TO THE SLEEVE ARM
• ONE zipper-less, less leather SLIT (not piped!) pocket ON THE LEFT INSIDE ONLY
• NO gussets

AFAIK this is as close as you can get to the jacket worn in the intro of Raiders, except for the zipper being nickel instead of alu.

PLATON or Agent5 can correct me if I'm wrong.

Indiana Whit · Post by **Indiana Whit** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 6:19 pm

quick check-off thing here...

say I have a 44" loose fit chest measurement (I measured right under the arms)- if they add a few inches to that for the actual jacket should I then get a 42 or 40? Or just stick with 44"?

I'd assume with the size up from the 40 you listed I'd just go with the standard pockets.

Also just in wondering, if any of you are about my height/measurements and have had the chance to compare 80's fit with standard, what to you looks more SA? I'm just hoping I can get it to taper to the waist right (I wear 32 waist).

I'm going to try and include as many screenshots as I can with my order to really specify these things (I've decided on the Raven's bar scene for my jacket, though I was re-watching it last night and I couldn't really see any parts where it shows his pockets).

Thanks very much for the tips, it'll help a lot especially since I'm not an expert on the terminology dealing with jackets hehe

*edit* I've noticed one thing, in looking at this screen cap

given the length of the average man's thumb from the tip to the first knuckle (about 1.25 inches given Harrison's height and comparing to my own hands) it appears that the bottom of the pocket, relative to the bottom of the jacket, is closer to 1.5 inches rather than the 2" so often stated. Hard to tell with precision but that's just my take on it- it really doesn't look like a full 2" given that it's barely more than the distance from his finger tip (thumb) to the first joint.

I measured my 6' brother's thumb finger tip to joint and it's also about the same so it doesn't seem to vary that much between individuals. It REALLY looks like it's a 1/2 inch shorter to me than 2".

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PLATON · Post by **PLATON** » Tue Oct 21, 2008 2:33 am

Rom Hunter wrote

• Size 40
• Raiders style
• Authentic Brown lambskin
• Standard cut
• Cotton Silesia lining for body, pockets AND sleeves
• 5 gauge NICKEL zipper with small zipper pull that extends TO THE BOTTOM of the jacket
• NO leather facing on zipper
• Storm flap should be 1.5” width with ROUNDED top corner
• Standard Raiders collar going HALFWAY the zipper and the storm flap
• PLATON’s pockets 7” x 6.5” with SCALLOPED flaps and nickel snaps
• Side strap length 7”, width 1” with X-BOX pattern, DOUBLE stitched
• Two piece BLACK RECTANGULAR buckles (personally I think this must be a black metal triglide)
• Pleat depth should be 1.5”
• NO side vent stitches
• Arm seam should be 1” BELOW the yoke seam
• Back panel should extend ALL THE WAY OUT TO THE SLEEVE ARM
• ONE zipper-less, less leather SLIT (not piped!) pocket ON THE LEFT INSIDE ONLY
• NO gussets

AFAIK this is as close as you can get to the jacket worn in the intro of Raiders, except for the zipper being nickel instead of alu.

PLATON or Agent5 can correct me if I'm wrong

I would add the following

-NO elastic in the back

As mentioned, the triglide is more accurate but Wested don't supply it, so you will need to provide it and they will install it.

CM · Post by CM » Tue Oct 21, 2008 2:38 am

The G&B jackets have their cargo pockets start 1.5 iches from the bottom, not 2 inches.

Of course for the LC jacket the pockets are much higher - 2.5 top 3 inches from the bottom

PLATON · Post by **PLATON** » Tue Oct 21, 2008 2:53 am

If you care, here's the drawing of PLATON pockets

You will notice distance is 1.75 from bottom, slightly larger than the 1.5 inch of the storm flap. This configuration is the result of numerous iterations I made with dummy pockets testing the various possibilities of pocket placement. I believe this is the optimum. (Please note however that it is not SA because in the film jacket the pockets were off center)

You can see it the distance from pocket to bottom here. It's a little larger than storm flap width.

Post by **Holt** » Tue Oct 21, 2008 9:01 am

yes they do look pretty far from the zipper.how much would you think? 2.5''?

Indiana Whit · Post by **Indiana Whit** » Tue Oct 21, 2008 9:53 pm

forgive the ignorance but what is trigilide exactly? haha just wasn't sure on that.

*it's a shame they don't offer aluminum zip type >.> ah well

*edit* ok take this or leave it, just some observation work here...and taking advantage (for once) of the 42" hdtv I'm using as a monitor right now >.>...

I took the liberty of measuring by hand (holding up a card to the screen, measuring the distance between the jacket end and pocket, then measuring the exact distance for the pocket. Old fashioned stuff.

First I took the 1.75 measurement, and tried it, and given that the top of the flap actually comes a little past the 5th measurement bar, bit less than 1/4th an inch beyond, I came up with a measurement that hits a little above 8.75" high for the pocket it's self from bottom to the top of the flap.

In assuming the 1.5 measurement, I hit a little closer to the estimated size- 7.5" + about 1/5th an inch beyond that- so a little less than 7.75 inches (give or take a few centimeters)...

were it a 1.75 increment it'd be closing in on 9" in height for the actual pocket+flap. Maybe I'm off, I don't know, just going by the unit of distance between the bottom and the bottom of the pocket and multiplying that on the assumption of 1.5".

I hate math ....

but I'm going to go with about 7.75 for mine. Maybe 7.5.

*I get 2 inches from zipper seam to pocket by this method as well- so I guess all the homework was done well already hehe good to know!

*also don't let the thickness of the red line fool you, I'd have liked to use a thinner one but it's not visible when I take magnify off:P