Received my Wested Custom Raiders today

JimL · Post by **JimL** » Sun Jul 20, 2008 11:32 pm

Hello again, Rom.

Another thought just occurred to me:

How do you like the zipper without the interior facing of leather? Do you find it's a problem, or no?

I was contemplating a small (1/2 inch or so) interior facing to keep the lining out of the zipper teeth... If it's not a problem for you with this jacket, I may just leave it alone....

Actually, do you have your order number from Wested, so I could give Peter something to reference, and he would know exactly what I'm talking abut? Also, if you don't mind, I'd like to forward these photos on to Peter to add further clarification as well...

Thanks in advance! I Love this jacket!

indycurtis · Post by **indycurtis** » Mon Jul 21, 2008 3:44 pm

Hi,

I don't to spoil the SA party, but I just wanted to mention, as lots of people are "me too"ing the above jacket specs that the 1 piece gusset may not be completely SA. Though there are many who would argue that with so many jackets used in production, there is no such things as exactly SA, I did find a quote from peter in an old thread that I thought would be worth including.

Best,
Indycutis

can confirm that the gussets in the Indy films were all of two piece contruction, I can alsso confirm that some of the jackets had gussets and some did not which is why it confuses and causes controversy.
One must remmber that the jacket seen in the films was not one jacket but several. It was only partway through the first film that we were asked to provide extra jackets with gussets for the fight sceenes but as a film is shot out of sequence jackets with and without gussets keep reappearing.
All the stunt mens jackets had gussets whilst most of Harrison Fords did not. Without doubt when making the film the continuety dept never envisaged that 20+ years later they would be so well scrutinised. Especially H.F's arm pits
Hope that helps a little
Cheers
Peter

Rom Hunter · Post by **Rom Hunter** » Sun Jul 27, 2008 3:51 am

Indiana Rich,

The pocket size is the same as Platon's pocket size (7” x 6.5” with SCALLOPED flaps and NICKEL snaps)

Please know that this pocket size is for a size 40 jacket.

Jim,

Zipping without interior lacing works fine.

Absolutely no problems with that.

Unfortunately I do not have my order number anymore...

Indycurtis,

I asked Peter to add TWO piece gussets (which is indeed more SA for the stuntman jackets), but he told me he would only do ONE piece gussets.

I really like the stuntman's touch of my jacket and I guess the gussets give the 80's fit sleeves slightly more arm movement too, which isn't a bad thing.

When Peter has more time to do special customs again, this will be my next order:

• Size 40
• Raiders style
• Authentic Brown lambskin
• Standard cut
• Cotton Silesia lining for body, pockets AND sleeves
• 5 gauge NICKEL zipper with small zipper pull that extends TO THE BOTTOM of the jacket
• NO leather facing on zipper
• Storm flap should be 1.5” width with ROUNDED top corner
• Standard Raiders collar going HALFWAY the zipper and the storm flap
• PLATON’s pockets 7” x 6.5” with SCALLOPED flaps and nickel snaps
• Side strap length 7”, width 1” with X-BOX pattern, DOUBLE stitched
• Two piece BLACK RECTANGULAR buckles
• Pleat depth should be 1.5”
• NO side vent stitches
• Arm seam should be 1” BELOW the yoke seam
• Back panel should extend ALL THE WAY OUT TO THE SLEEVE ARM
• ONE zipper-less, less leather SLIT (not piped!) pocket ON THE LEFT INSIDE ONLY
• NO gussets

Unless of course Agent5 or Platon have something to add or correct to this...

JimL · Post by **JimL** » Mon Jul 28, 2008 8:05 am

Rom Hunter wrote:
Jim,

Zipping without interior lacing works fine.

Absolutely no problems with that.

Unfortunately I do not have my order number anymore...

Thanks for that Info.

I have a Todd's standard on the way, but I think fitment might be an issue... I may end up with the Wested after all, dependant on how things go with the Todd's.

JimL · Post by **JimL** » Tue Sep 23, 2008 2:06 pm

well, it's been a while, but I think I may end up ordering a Wested after all...

I was really hoping the Todd's would work out, as it is very inexpensive for what you get- a fantastic costume jacket that you can distress without crying about it!

Now, I am at a cross roads... I cannot aford two jackets, but I would really like to have a wested ToD replica. However, if I can only have one (as seems to be the case now) then it is a Raider's jacket- the jacket that started it all for me.

So, that brings me back here again. With that second list (just above) would there be any changes to that to be the "best" possible Raider's style jacket Peter is capeable of making?

Further, I asked earlier just how far past the waist the jacket should fall (it appears to be past the belt line at least). It is dificult to tell from watching the film, so I wanted a more educated opinion on that. To now, I have not received anything real; however I can tell it when I see it- if I see someone wearing a jacket, I can tell that is "right" or not. The trick is translating what I see on another person to a dimension Peter can replicate for me, in my size...

Also, the note on packet size above "That is for a size 40 jacket": would you scale up the pockets 10%or so for a size 44 jacket to keep it SA proportional? It sems like a reasonable idea, and I can specify that if needed...

Finally, how much does this laundry list of details increase the final cost of the jacket? If we creep into Tony Nowak price territory, is it a worth while exercise? No trying to start a war on one better than another (or not) just have to understand the pricing structure. A PM is fine if we want to take this off line too...

I have two enquiries for member's jackets now- if that doesn't pan out, I need to order something right away to make the Halloween costuming season...

Thanks in advance to all who care to comment! Photos are always a bonus, and when/if I do this, I'd like it to be "as good" as I can possibly make it (within cost reason).

Kt Templar · Post by **Kt Templar** » Tue Sep 23, 2008 2:19 pm

I've heard customs mostly in the £165 region, I don't think I've heard one over £185. He is starting to surcharge 48" and over, but not by a lot.

Still a lot lower than a Nowak.

JimL · Post by **JimL** » Tue Sep 23, 2008 2:22 pm

Thanks, KT...

Still too rich to afford two jackets (in the near future at least) but good to know.

Any details to add to the list above at all?

Kt Templar · Post by **Kt Templar** » Tue Sep 23, 2008 2:34 pm

Well, although I never bother with this particular spec, It drives me to distraction the way the yoke seam is referred to.

There are 2 issues with the yoke.

1) It needs to be narrow, probably about 5" in the middle depending on jacket size. This leads to the position of the sleeve seams IN RELATION to the yoke:

2) The sleeve seams should be about an inch below the level of the yoke.

So as you can see the sleeve seams are not 'lower' than they are on other jackets (which would mean that the sleeves are rotated skyward). They are in exactly the same place. It is the yoke that is raised in comparison.

You could also ask for elastic in the pleats, I've had them and they work well.

Please let us know how you get on. I actually favour the washed goat for the Raiders. But that's JMO!

JimL · Post by **JimL** » Tue Sep 23, 2008 2:45 pm

I agree- the washed goat looks great, and I'm sure it wears well over time too...

I just love Horse Hide, and know that the thinner hide Peter uses will look fantastic in a few years time. Plus it will hold up to whatever I decide to throw at it. Must be kept in mind in a ~$400.00 custom jacket...

My Schott has elastic to keep the back pleats 'closed' unless you stretch and need the extra material. It keeps the jacket looking neat; although the back panel is so stiff (FQHH) that I guess it really wouldn't matter on this jacket...

Indiana Strones · Post by **Indiana Strones** » Tue Sep 23, 2008 2:46 pm

I suggest you 6.25"x7.25" pockets, as Rom Hunter pockets are not SA IMO (too square).

JimL · Post by **JimL** » Tue Sep 23, 2008 2:51 pm

6 1/2 X 7 1/2 seems to be about right to me for a size 40 (Ford's size?)

so to keep the same relationship to the pockets to the surrounding material in a size 44 jacket (which is 10% larger than a 40) I am musing that the pockets should therefore be about 7 1/8 wide X 8 1/4 tall for proper proportions....

Satipo · Post by **Satipo** » Tue Sep 23, 2008 3:02 pm

Didn't PLATON have some good pocket measurements and a means for scaling up?

JimL · Post by **JimL** » Tue Sep 23, 2008 4:12 pm

I guess we find out when/if he replies to this thread... ;-)

Kt Templar · Post by **Kt Templar** » Tue Sep 23, 2008 5:04 pm

J!m wrote:I agree- the washed goat looks great, and I'm sure it wears well over time too...

I just love Horse Hide, and know that the thinner hide Peter uses will look fantastic in a few years time. Plus it will hold up to whatever I decide to throw at it. Must be kept in mind in a ~$400.00 custom jacket...

My Schott has elastic to keep the back pleats 'closed' unless you stretch and need the extra material. It keeps the jacket looking neat; although the back panel is so stiff (FQHH) that I guess it really wouldn't matter on this jacket...

I have a fantastic horsehide jacket. Feels bulletproof.

But it's also a bit heavy for my taste, I wear my lamb and novapelle a lot more.

JimL · Post by **JimL** » Tue Sep 23, 2008 5:11 pm

How much heavier would you say? Double the weight of the Lamb, or less?

My Schott is a tank (and weighs like one). With the liner inside, it has to be over five pounds easily... It literally stood up on its own when I got it, and for several months thereafter...

I don't expect the Wested to be THAT heavy, but just curiosity really....

Kt Templar · Post by **Kt Templar** » Tue Sep 23, 2008 5:17 pm

J!m wrote:How much heavier would you say? Double the weight of the Lamb, or less?

My Schott is a tank (and weighs like one). With the liner inside, it has to be over five pounds easily... It literally stood up on its own when I got it, and for several months thereafter...

I don't expect the Wested to be THAT heavy, but just curiosity really....

Funny you should ask....

viewtopic.php?t=26986&highlight=jacket+weight

Yes, too much free time!

Indiana Strones · Post by **Indiana Strones** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 3:40 am

Kt, what colour is your HH? Dark or Auth. br.? Looks very dark. Thanks.

Kt Templar · Post by **Kt Templar** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 5:21 am

AFAIK, HH come in one colour. It's something between Authentic Brown and dark brown. It doesn't have the purplish undertones I've seen in some dark brown jacket. But like the rest of us I've not really seen that many dark brown Westeds.

JimL · Post by **JimL** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 7:38 am

Thanks, KT...

Horse looks better and better the more I see it...

Good guess on the weight?

Indiana Strones · Post by **Indiana Strones** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 8:07 am

Kt Templar wrote: But it's also a bit heavy for my taste, I wear my lamb and novapelle a lot more.

This means that HH is heavier than novapelle?

I found my novapelle very heavy compared to all my other jackets.

JimL · Post by **JimL** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 8:59 am

Further drama..

I went last night and tried on about 50 sport/suit jackets at a local mens store last night.

I have discovered that "of the rack" a 42L fits me the best (a 41L might be better but difficult to find).

This is a suprise to me, as my Schott is a 44xL (Custom)!

SO, that means only a 5% increase in pocket size, assuming the Wested fits the same a s a suit jacket (real world sizing, not Todd's sizing). Would anyone care to comment on their suit jacket size versus their Wested 80's cut jacket size? I like a slim, fitted look (and fortunately, I do not cary a spare tire around).

I want to place the order today, so any information is greatly appreciated!

Indiana Strones · Post by **Indiana Strones** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 9:22 am

All my jackets are standard cut, not 80s, so I can't help you...

JimL · Post by **JimL** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 9:25 am

Thanks Strones...

I am compiling my "list of demands" now... I hope Peter doesn't shoot me...

I increased the pocket size slightly (~5%) to account for the increase in jacket body size. I hope it looks right, but with so many pocket sizes out there, I think it will be fine...

JimL · Post by **JimL** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 10:19 am

I watched Raiders GAIAN last night, and I think I have a handle on the jacket length.

(Please correct me if wrong) It appears to me that the pocket flaps sould be just covered when standing straight. The flaps are exposed most of the time because Ford is rarely standing straight in the movie (always doing something) but the opening scene (before he whips the gun away) I zoomed in on his back (yes I was looking at hid butt, but this is importnant stuff!) and noticed the flaps were covered.

I suspected this was the case, but it is very hard to discern throughout the movie. With the bag and holster hanging the jacket botom everywhere...

So, here are my specs for my custom Wested order. I want to send this in today, so please chime in if I'm way off base here... I will also include the photos from the begining of this thread for reference...

• Size 42L
• Raiders style / 80's fit (919 pattern?)
• Brown Horse Hide
• Cotton Silesia lining for body and pockets; sleeves only in satin
• 5 gauge NICKEL zipper with small zipper pull that extends TO THE BOTTOM of the jacket
• ¼ - 3/8 inch wide or NO leather facing on zipper (not the wide facing please!) if possible
• Storm flap 1.5” wide with ROUNDED top corner as shown in picture attached
• Standard Raiders collar ending HALFWAY between the zipper and the storm flap (see photo attached)
•pockets 7.25” tall x 6.75” wide with SCALLOPED flaps and nickel snaps (Scaled up "PLATON" pockets- see photo attached)
• Side strap length 7”, width 1” with X-BOX pattern, DOUBLE stitched
• Two piece BLACK RECTANGULAR buckles
• Pleat depth should be at 1.5”
• Elastic to keep pleats neat?
• NO side vent stitches
• Arm seam should be 1” BELOW the yoke seam, OR raise yoke seam 1 inch higher and add material to back piece as needed (which ever is easier and allows comfortable movement)
• Back panel should extend all the way out to the arm seams
• ONE zipper-less, SLIT (narrow piped) pocket ON THE LEFT INSIDE ONLY
• one-piece underarm gussets (two piece if possible)

My body measurements:
Height: 6 feet 2 inches
Chest measurement: 42 inches (lungs full of air, over t-shirt)

Leather Jacket Measurements:
Sleeve length: (?- should be about 37 if measured like a dress shirt I suspect )
Back length: 28 inches to cover the pocket flaps while standing straight (is that about right?)
Collar: About 17.5-18"?

MY SUIT JACKET SIZE: 42 Long "of the rack" (I tried on many from many designers…)

DRESS SHIRT SIZE: 15.5 – 36 (34 inch back length)

Dress pants size:
WAIST: 34 ½
INSEAM: 34 ¼ (34 ¼ at the back, 33 ¼ at the front for military hem)
OUTSEAM: 45 ¼

Pictures attached are of a jacket you made a few months ago, below that several movie stills for reference…

Indiana Strones · Post by **Indiana Strones** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 10:42 am

Good luck...

JimL · Post by **JimL** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 10:43 am

Thanks...

I just spoke with Gemma on the phone, and sent in my list of demands.

Hopefully, there are no problems...

Now, I wait...

whipcracker · Post by **whipcracker** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 12:04 pm

I am very interested to see how your jacket comes out. Those are just about my measurements too.
I am thinking a Magnoli though... but Wested is making some really terrific jackets however and they are less money...

Did you look at Marc's and Erri's jacket threads?

Indiana Strones · Post by **Indiana Strones** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 12:45 pm

sleeves only in satin

You chose wisely!

JimL · Post by **JimL** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 1:16 pm

No one sees the sleeve lining but me.

My tendency toward big watches makes a cotton lining not a good idea- it will catch all the time, and rip.

I have the satin lining (complete) in my Schott, and it is fine with a big watch...

Is it ready yet?!?!

Kt Templar · Post by **Kt Templar** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 1:21 pm

J!m wrote:No one sees the sleeve lining but me.

My tendency toward big watches makes a cotton lining not a good idea- it will catch all the time, and rip.

I have the satin lining (complete) in my Schott, and it is fine with a big watch...

Is it ready yet?!?!

If you like big watches a nylon lining might be better. (Tell them about the watches, they might be able to suggest something). The satin is not that tough, it's a bit like pj fabric.

JimL · Post by **JimL** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 1:23 pm

Won't the nylon be clammy on the arms in warmer weather?

Kt Templar · Post by **Kt Templar** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 1:30 pm

J!m wrote:Won't the nylon be clammy on the arms in warmer weather?

Shouldn't be, I've got older leather concessionnaires jackets with nylon linings, they wear fine... but if you live somewhere very humid....

But then again if it's that hot you shouldn't be wearing a jacket

.

JimL · Post by **JimL** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 1:45 pm

Kt Templar wrote:But then again if it's that hot you shouldn't be wearing a jacket .

Tell that to Indy!

Kokopelli · Post by **Kokopelli** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 1:50 pm

Hey- my old Cooper had cotton sleeves, and I wear a huge watch, a Citizen Aqualand that has a very rough bezel ring and crown- I had no problems with the lining at all in the 13 years I wore it, and I wore it all the time. The only wear in the lining came on the inside at the waist where the hammer from my .45 rubbed and caught on it, and even then it wore a very small place in the lining about the size of a dime that I was able to sew up and it was invisible.
My current Wested HH has the all cotton lining too, I love it.

Indiana Strones · Post by **Indiana Strones** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 1:56 pm

J!m wrote: • Size 42L
• Raiders style / 80's fit (919 pattern?)
• Brown Horse Hide
• Cotton Silesia lining for body and pockets; sleeves only in satin
• 5 gauge NICKEL zipper with small zipper pull that extends TO THE BOTTOM of the jacket
• ¼ - 3/8 inch wide or NO leather facing on zipper (not the wide facing please!) if possible
• Storm flap 1.5” wide with ROUNDED top corner as shown in picture attached
• Standard Raiders collar ending HALFWAY between the zipper and the storm flap (see photo attached)
•pockets 7.25” tall x 6.75” wide with SCALLOPED flaps and nickel snaps (Scaled up "PLATON" pockets- see photo attached)
• Side strap length 7”, width 1” with X-BOX pattern, DOUBLE stitched
• Two piece BLACK RECTANGULAR buckles
• Pleat depth should be at 1.5”
• Elastic to keep pleats neat?
• NO side vent stitches
• Arm seam should be 1” BELOW the yoke seam, OR raise yoke seam 1 inch higher and add material to back piece as needed (which ever is easier and allows comfortable movement)
• Back panel should extend all the way out to the arm seams
• ONE zipper-less, SLIT (narrow piped) pocket ON THE LEFT INSIDE ONLY
• one-piece underarm gussets (two piece if possible)

My body measurements:
Height: 6 feet 2 inches
Chest measurement: 42 inches (lungs full of air, over t-shirt)

Leather Jacket Measurements:
Sleeve length: (?- should be about 37 if measured like a dress shirt I suspect )
Back length: 28 inches to cover the pocket flaps while standing straight (is that about right?)
Collar: About 17.5-18"?

MY SUIT JACKET SIZE: 42 Long "of the rack" (I tried on many from many designers…)

DRESS SHIRT SIZE: 15.5 – 36 (34 inch back length)

Dress pants size:
WAIST: 34 ½
INSEAM: 34 ¼ (34 ¼ at the back, 33 ¼ at the front for military hem)
OUTSEAM: 45 ¼

Pictures attached are of a jacket you made a few months ago, below that several movie stills for reference…

Hey Jim you forgot to attach your passport number and a pic of your granny!!

JimL · Post by **JimL** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 1:58 pm

Granny's gone- Pasport is classified... ;-)

Received my Wested Custom Raiders today

Not to spoil the SA party, but