Wested Custom Raiders: Ironing Out the Details
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- indycurtis
- Archaeology Student
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Wed May 28, 2008 11:06 pm
- Location: San Francisco, CA
Wested Custom Raiders: Ironing Out the Details
I am on the market for a custom raiders jacket, and I've been researching the forum pretty intensely for the last month or so on just this topic. Which has left me with a few questions and looking to verify I few details. This is what I've got so far...
Jacket style: There seems to be standard cut and 80's cut. Which is more screen accurate? I know that this is offered in an otr jacket, but can it be requested with a custom jacket? Does this require any special measuring to ensure a good fit?
Hide: I'm going to get authentic brown goat skin: the consensus seems to be that it drapes similarly to the SA lamb, but VERY durable.
Sleeve length should be measured to the first knuckle of the thumb (base of thumb). And add at least 1/2" to compensate for wrinkling. So my shoulder to wrist measurement is 34. To knuckle is 36. and with .5in for wrinkling is 36.5in. (Did i even measure that correctly? There is a diagram in the thread viewtopic.php?t=15367 which seems to indicate that what I have is my ARM length and not my Shoulder length. Which also begs the question: Which one am I supposed to provide for them?)
The Jacket Length should be 1-2in below waist. Some say it should be 3-4 in below waist, but that is generally attributed to scenes where Harrison is wearing his pants up higher. So, I'll go with 2 in to be safe. BUT HOW TO I MEASURE FOR LENGTH? (if someone could post photos of how to do the measurements that would be awesome. Do they measure THAT at Men's Wearhouse?)
The pockets should measure 7 x 6.5 inches (or 7.5" by 6.25"?) with 2.75 in. scalloped flaps to be SA. Is this correct? If so, how do you include this detail in your order?
There also seems to be a question of pocket distance from zipper/storm flap. I found these numbers
Left Pocket- 1 inch (2.5cm) from storm flap.
Right Pocket- 1.5 inches (3.8cm) from the zipper seam (edge of jacket).
both about 2" from bottom of the jacket.
Are these numbers accurate? If so, how do you include them in your order?
Side fasteners: The updated indygear website says that they D-rings were replaced with black metal sliders because the D rings didn't hold well. Is that still the case? Do people have a functional or aesthetic preference of one over the other? It seems like back sliders are the SA way to go.
X box stitch: Screen accurate way of attaching leather for sliders?
Zipper: the standard is a nickel 8 gauge, but some say that the teeth look too big to be SA? So 5 gauge nickel? Here I will err on the side of quality and practicality, but I'd also like to know what the SA choice is.
Finally Gussets: What are these exactly? What are they good for? Are they SA? What do people think of them?
To conclude, my last, and perhaps, most important question is do you give your actual measurements (so my arm measurement would be 34) or your requested measurements (36.5)?
Thank you much. I know this is a lot. I have been researching for a while, and now I'm looking to get the facts straight. Once and for all. I will have them straight.
Jacket style: There seems to be standard cut and 80's cut. Which is more screen accurate? I know that this is offered in an otr jacket, but can it be requested with a custom jacket? Does this require any special measuring to ensure a good fit?
Hide: I'm going to get authentic brown goat skin: the consensus seems to be that it drapes similarly to the SA lamb, but VERY durable.
Sleeve length should be measured to the first knuckle of the thumb (base of thumb). And add at least 1/2" to compensate for wrinkling. So my shoulder to wrist measurement is 34. To knuckle is 36. and with .5in for wrinkling is 36.5in. (Did i even measure that correctly? There is a diagram in the thread viewtopic.php?t=15367 which seems to indicate that what I have is my ARM length and not my Shoulder length. Which also begs the question: Which one am I supposed to provide for them?)
The Jacket Length should be 1-2in below waist. Some say it should be 3-4 in below waist, but that is generally attributed to scenes where Harrison is wearing his pants up higher. So, I'll go with 2 in to be safe. BUT HOW TO I MEASURE FOR LENGTH? (if someone could post photos of how to do the measurements that would be awesome. Do they measure THAT at Men's Wearhouse?)
The pockets should measure 7 x 6.5 inches (or 7.5" by 6.25"?) with 2.75 in. scalloped flaps to be SA. Is this correct? If so, how do you include this detail in your order?
There also seems to be a question of pocket distance from zipper/storm flap. I found these numbers
Left Pocket- 1 inch (2.5cm) from storm flap.
Right Pocket- 1.5 inches (3.8cm) from the zipper seam (edge of jacket).
both about 2" from bottom of the jacket.
Are these numbers accurate? If so, how do you include them in your order?
Side fasteners: The updated indygear website says that they D-rings were replaced with black metal sliders because the D rings didn't hold well. Is that still the case? Do people have a functional or aesthetic preference of one over the other? It seems like back sliders are the SA way to go.
X box stitch: Screen accurate way of attaching leather for sliders?
Zipper: the standard is a nickel 8 gauge, but some say that the teeth look too big to be SA? So 5 gauge nickel? Here I will err on the side of quality and practicality, but I'd also like to know what the SA choice is.
Finally Gussets: What are these exactly? What are they good for? Are they SA? What do people think of them?
To conclude, my last, and perhaps, most important question is do you give your actual measurements (so my arm measurement would be 34) or your requested measurements (36.5)?
Thank you much. I know this is a lot. I have been researching for a while, and now I'm looking to get the facts straight. Once and for all. I will have them straight.
- indycurtis
- Archaeology Student
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Wed May 28, 2008 11:06 pm
- Location: San Francisco, CA
The Gussets are a go! I found an old thread where _ and Peter confirm that the hero jacket had gussets, the costume designers wanted gussets, to gosh darn it, I Want Them Too!!!
Most of the other items I mention (excepting the pocket specifications) are options on Peter's website. The question still remains, do you supply body measurements? Or jacket measurements?
Looking forward to learning more as more reply.
Cheers
Most of the other items I mention (excepting the pocket specifications) are options on Peter's website. The question still remains, do you supply body measurements? Or jacket measurements?
Looking forward to learning more as more reply.
Cheers
- Hunter Jones
- Archaeologist
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- Rom Hunter
- Laboratory Technician
- Posts: 165
- Joined: Thu Feb 14, 2008 2:24 pm
Re: Wested Custom Raiders: Ironing Out the Details
I think the most SA one is something in between standard and 80's cut.indycurtis wrote:Jacket style: There seems to be standard cut and 80's cut. Which is more screen accurate? I know that this is offered in an otr jacket, but can it be requested with a custom jacket? Does this require any special measuring to ensure a good fit?
If you're slim build, I would go for the 80's cut, otherwise I would choose the standard cut.
It's more durable than lamb, but slightly sturdier and not 100% SA.indycurtis wrote:Hide: I'm going to get authentic brown goat skin: the consensus seems to be that it drapes similarly to the SA lamb, but VERY durable.
Your 36.5" measurement would be correct (sleeve lenght = shoulder to first thumb knuckle), but personally I would skip that extra 0.5" wrinkle thing.indycurtis wrote:Sleeve length should be measured to the first knuckle of the thumb (base of thumb). And add at least 1/2" to compensate for wrinkling. So my shoulder to wrist measurement is 34. To knuckle is 36. and with .5in for wrinkling is 36.5in. (Did i even measure that correctly? There is a diagram in the thread viewtopic.php?t=15367 which seems to indicate that what I have is my ARM length and not my Shoulder length. Which also begs the question: Which one am I supposed to provide for them?)
Measure the back of a jacket along the spine from the collar (not the stormflap) to the lowest end of the jacket.indycurtis wrote:The Jacket Length should be 1-2in below waist. Some say it should be 3-4 in below waist, but that is generally attributed to scenes where Harrison is wearing his pants up higher. So, I'll go with 2 in to be safe. BUT HOW TO I MEASURE FOR LENGTH? (if someone could post photos of how to do the measurements that would be awesome. Do they measure THAT at Men's Wearhouse?)
For a size 40 7"x 6.5 " with 3" scalloped flaps is great.indycurtis wrote:The pockets should measure 7 x 6.5 inches (or 7.5" by 6.25"?) with 2.75 in. scalloped flaps to be SA. Is this correct? If so, how do you include this detail in your order?
There also seems to be a question of pocket distance from zipper/storm flap. I found these numbers
Left Pocket- 1 inch (2.5cm) from storm flap.
Right Pocket- 1.5 inches (3.8cm) from the zipper seam (edge of jacket).
both about 2" from bottom of the jacket.
Are these numbers accurate? If so, how do you include them in your order?
1.75" from bottom of jacket.
IMO they should be black metal triglides.indycurtis wrote:Side fasteners: The updated indygear website says that they D-rings were replaced with black metal sliders because the D rings didn't hold well. Is that still the case? Do people have a functional or aesthetic preference of one over the other? It seems like back sliders are the SA way to go.
The second SA choise should IMO be two pair of black metal rectangular loops.
Forget the D-rings for a SA Raiders jacket.
Yep. X-box stitching is SA.indycurtis wrote:X box stitch: Screen accurate way of attaching leather for sliders?
100% SA would be an allumunium 5 gauge zipper, but the 5 gauge nickel one should be the second SA choice.indycurtis wrote:Zipper: the standard is a nickel 8 gauge, but some say that the teeth look too big to be SA? So 5 gauge nickel? Here I will err on the side of quality and practicality, but I'd also like to know what the SA choice is.
Gussets are little extra pieces of leather in the armpits of the jacket.indycurtis wrote:[Finally Gussets: What are these exactly? What are they good for? Are they SA?
They are a nice SA addition if you want a more stuntman version look.
They gave the stuntmen slightly more upward arm movement during the action scenes.
Your requested measurements.indycurtis wrote:To conclude, my last, and perhaps, most important question is do you give your actual measurements (so my arm measurement would be 34) or your requested measurements (36.5)?
- rbinko2001
- Laboratory Technician
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- Michaelson
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Just be sure to tell them where you're taking that measurement from. I'm assuming you're measuring from the shoulder seam where the sleeve is attached to the jacket, down to the end of the cuff, right?
That's where I take my measurements from, but some companies take the sleeve length from the base of the collar stand to the end of cuff. Using your supplied measurement and thinking about this information, you'd end up with a jacket that has a sleeve cuff that will end just below your elbow.
Just tell Peter where you took the measurement from, and he'll know what to do.
Regards! Michaelson
That's where I take my measurements from, but some companies take the sleeve length from the base of the collar stand to the end of cuff. Using your supplied measurement and thinking about this information, you'd end up with a jacket that has a sleeve cuff that will end just below your elbow.
Just tell Peter where you took the measurement from, and he'll know what to do.
Regards! Michaelson
- rbinko2001
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- Michaelson
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- Professor of Archaeology
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Sleeve length should be measured to the first knuckle of the thumb (base of thumb). And add at least 1/2" to compensate for wrinkling. So my shoulder to wrist measurement is 34. To knuckle is 36. and with .5in for wrinkling is 36.5in. (Did i even measure that correctly?
You may want to revist this one.I'm assuming you're measuring from the shoulder seam where the sleeve is attached to the jacket, down to the end of the cuff, right?
If your shoulder to wrist measures 34 inches, than you have the longest
arms in the world!!
Most people have a jacket sleeve length around 25 or 26 inches when measured
the way Michealson said, NOT 34 inches!!
If you give that measurement to Peter, you will have to get almost
a good foot taken off the jacket the sleeves will be so long.
In order to get a measurement of 34 to 36 inches as you are describing,
you have to be measuring from the center of the back of your neck,
across one shoulder, and then down your arm to your wrist/knuckle.
Thats the proper way to measure for correct sleeve length, and is the industry standard.
The way Michealson suggested is also a good way to compare one jacket
to another in order to get a proper fitting jacket, and alot of vendors like
to have that info as well.
But there is no way in heck that just your shoulder to your wrist is 34 inches.
Flathead