Jacket style: There seems to be standard cut and 80's cut. Which is more screen accurate? I know that this is offered in an otr jacket, but can it be requested with a custom jacket? Does this require any special measuring to ensure a good fit?
Hide: I'm going to get authentic brown goat skin: the consensus seems to be that it drapes similarly to the SA lamb, but VERY durable.
Sleeve length should be measured to the first knuckle of the thumb (base of thumb). And add at least 1/2" to compensate for wrinkling. So my shoulder to wrist measurement is 34. To knuckle is 36. and with .5in for wrinkling is 36.5in. (Did i even measure that correctly? There is a diagram in the thread viewtopic.php?t=15367 which seems to indicate that what I have is my ARM length and not my Shoulder length. Which also begs the question: Which one am I supposed to provide for them?)
The Jacket Length should be 1-2in below waist. Some say it should be 3-4 in below waist, but that is generally attributed to scenes where Harrison is wearing his pants up higher. So, I'll go with 2 in to be safe. BUT HOW TO I MEASURE FOR LENGTH? (if someone could post photos of how to do the measurements that would be awesome. Do they measure THAT at Men's Wearhouse?)
The pockets should measure 7 x 6.5 inches (or 7.5" by 6.25"?) with 2.75 in. scalloped flaps to be SA. Is this correct? If so, how do you include this detail in your order?
There also seems to be a question of pocket distance from zipper/storm flap. I found these numbers
Left Pocket- 1 inch (2.5cm) from storm flap.
Right Pocket- 1.5 inches (3.8cm) from the zipper seam (edge of jacket).
both about 2" from bottom of the jacket.
Are these numbers accurate? If so, how do you include them in your order?
Side fasteners: The updated indygear website says that they D-rings were replaced with black metal sliders because the D rings didn't hold well. Is that still the case? Do people have a functional or aesthetic preference of one over the other? It seems like back sliders are the SA way to go.
X box stitch: Screen accurate way of attaching leather for sliders?
Zipper: the standard is a nickel 8 gauge, but some say that the teeth look too big to be SA? So 5 gauge nickel? Here I will err on the side of quality and practicality, but I'd also like to know what the SA choice is.
Finally Gussets: What are these exactly? What are they good for? Are they SA? What do people think of them?
To conclude, my last, and perhaps, most important question is do you give your actual measurements (so my arm measurement would be 34) or your requested measurements (36.5)?
Thank you much. I know this is a lot. I have been researching for a while, and now I'm looking to get the facts straight. Once and for all. I will have them straight.
