Bullwhips 101

The_Edge · Post by **The_Edge** » Thu Mar 13, 2003 9:19 pm

Some simple guidelines to inspecting a whip and determining it's quality:

1.) Inspecting the Thong/Handle junction.
This is the section where the rigid handle changes to the flexible thong of the whip. There should be no noticeable drop in diameter directly off the end of the handle. It should be either the same width as the handle or slightly larger. It should not be spongy or soft when squeezed between your fingers. It should be solid with little to no give. Tiny gaps in plaiting are normal when bent but these gaps should not exceed 1/16".

2.) Inspecting the Handle and Grip
First of all, find out what the foundation of the handle is. A nail spike, pipe, wood dowel, etc. This will aid in the criteria in which you assign it's overall feel. Whatever the handle foundation is it should not bend. Some give is okay depending on what is used but if you bend the handle and it stays bent, send it back.

If the handle has a braided overlay there should be no gaps in between strands. This is true for single diamond, herring bone or whatever pattern is used. A solid feel with no squish is desired but if there is a slight squish this is no cause for concern. However, the overlay should not slide around on the handle.

The knots should be tight and not slide in either direction. The butt knot should not turn when twisted. DO NOT force the knot to turn like a door knob. Some slight movement is normal but movement of 1/4" or more with little force is unacceptable.

3.) Inspecting the Thong
The thong of the whip should be solid as a rock. The overlay should not be felt moving around on top of the bellies. Individual strands should not be easily moved around if at all. Strand widths should be even as they taper down the length and there should be no gaps in between them. Seeing the bolster or core material underneath is not acceptable in higher quality kangaroo whips. This is unavoidable in some cow hide whips though.

Grip the thong at the junction and run your hand down the length of it to the fall. It should be very smooth and even with little to no lumps and bumps. A few bumps and uneven spots where strands are dropped are normal but it should not feel like your hand is being force open and shut the entire length. Your grip should steadily get smaller as you travel towards the point.

Look at the "seams" running the length of the thong. Are they even? Meaning do they stay reasonably straight all the way from the handle to the point. Some meandering is fine but they should not spiral around the thong or make drastic changes.

Look at the taper and determine if it is even. Have someone hold the handle of the whip while you hold the point at eye level and look down it's length. Perspective foreshortening dictates that at this point of view the entire thong should look approximately the same diameter. If the point or other areas look larger than the junction then it is not a very smooth taper and this will affect it's performance and ease of cracking. Some short areas of continued diameter are normal and fine but the smoother the taper the better. An even taper can also be determined by running your hand down the length of the thong as well.

The point (where the end of the braid meets the fall hitch) should be tight and there should be no strands or gaps visible where the fall hitch is tied. The Fall hitch should be tight and even with little to no gaps. However, this is an area that one can tighten up and should not be a source for concern.

4.) Weight and Balance
This is a bit harder to determine and only comes with experience of handling several types of whips. "Whip Balance" means different things to different people and you will get a different answer on this subject every time. A simple test of mine (and by no means is this a rule of law) is to balance the handle on my horizontal finger near the ring knot. The weight of the handle should counter the weight of the thong causing the whip to balance itself out. The handle should not feel overly heavy when compared to the thong and vice versa. Also. If you have to use excessive force and speed to get the whip to perform even a slight crack then chances are the whip is balanced wrong. Although even this is hard to determine in brand new whips since they are so tight still. As stated above, these are not solid rules and only experience will tell you if a whip "feels" right. ("Right" often times being personal preference.)
-----------------------------------------------

There are some other factors to look for but these are the basics. First and foremost always investigate a whip maker before buying from them. A less than honest whip maker can use cheap short cuts and materials when constructing the insides of a whip and since the overlay hides them you will never know. Make sure you trust the whip maker before buying. Ninety-nine percent of the whips on Ebay should be avoided if your looking for a quality whip. Often times, "You get what you pay for," whether it be on Ebay or a private vendor will be your tip off.

Many of the same criteria are applied to Australian Stock Whips as well. Although there are slight variations.

Questions?

(EDIT: I went home and re-thought about some of my comments in the Weight and Balance section and corrected them. The center of gravity should be near the end of the handle and not in the center as originally stated.)

Indiana Joe · Post by **Indiana Joe** » Fri Mar 14, 2003 7:02 am

Kyle,

I found this extremely informative. Thank you.

I.J.

The_Edge · Post by **The_Edge** » Fri Mar 14, 2003 11:59 am

The following is a tutorial that I originally posted on the old Bullwhip forum:

Casting Part I

Casting (also known as the Forward Throw) is a very basic crack and one that is an excellent way to test a bullwhip for how well is works. Whenever I pick up a new or different bullwhip I will always cast it a couple times to see how well it cracks. This tells me a lot about the weight, construction and taper of the thong. Unlike a vertical foreword crack (or Cattleman's Crack as Mike Murphy calls it) you are not transferring any prior momentum to the whip before throwing it foreword. Instead you are starting with the whip at rest and then immediately transferring foreword energy. A well made whip will take very little energy to roll out and crack with ease. A whip that is too light or braided crooked or not tapered may still have the ability to crack but it will take more effort and control.

Before you start cracking take a look at how you hold the bullwhip. Make sure the whip is bending down with its natural curve and grip the handle at the base, holding most of the Turk's knot in you palm. Utilize some control by placing at least your index finger around the handle above the knot. Your thumb should be pointing up the handle in the direction of the thong. (Some people prefer to grip the bullwhip in the center of the handle between the two knots. While you can crack a whip using this method you are actually fighting against the bullwhip's design. Making the process harder on you and the thong/handle junction of your whip.)

Now that we have gone over how to hold the whip here is why you hold it this way. Imagine that the handle of the whip is a hand on a clock. You are gripping the handle at the center of the clock. The junction where the thong leaves the handle is the part pointing at the numbers. Pivot the handle back and forth using your wrist and keep your grip centered. Just like the clock hand it takes very little motion at the center in order to move the end a greater distance. Now lock your wrist and do the same motions using your elbow and then your shoulder. Pay close attention to how the thong responds to these motions. (Note: This idea of the end of the handle being used to control and amplify motion and energy from a pivot point is the defining factor in the use of a Stock Whip.)

The_Edge · Post by **The_Edge** » Fri Mar 14, 2003 12:01 pm

Casting Part II

Now we are ready to crack. Lay the bullwhip straight out behind you, your arm straight back and your palm facing upward. Now using a smooth motion (similar to throwing a baseball) pull the whip foreword by raising your entire arm bending your arm at the elbow. With the whip cocked backwards and your elbow locked at a 90 degree position push the handle through the air using your shoulder. When Your upper arm is almost pointed straight ahead you will now shift your pivot to the elbow and begin extending your entire arm straight in front of you. The handle of the whip is still cocked back at this stage and you should see the thong forming a loop beside you at this point. When your entire arm is almost entirely extended straight pivot the handle foreword using your wrist. (Do not snap your wrist foreword. Use the momentum of the thong to pull the handle.) Your entire arm should be extended completely straight with your thumb on top as the thong continues on. When done correctly the thong will travel straight out in front of you terminating in a sharp crack and then dropping to the ground. If the whip recoils back at you then you are pulling the whip back instead of letting it travel.

By using the multiple pivots and a smooth motion this should take very little energy. If your shoulder begins to hurt after only a few tries then you are using too much force.

The_Edge · Post by **The_Edge** » Fri Mar 14, 2003 12:02 pm

Casting Part III

Helpful tips: Always look at where you want the whip to travel. Whether you’re looking at a target or an imaginary point doesn’t matter. You’re results will improve when aiming at a focal point.

Always know ahead of time where you are going with the whip. This sounds the same as a focal point but it really involves follow through. If you want to follow through to a second crack or recoil the whip back into position you must know where you are going before you begin. With out a “travel plan” you will end up hurting your self. With practice this will become second nature and this “travel plan” will come more from instinct and feel than from actually planning. Try to follow the natural arcs of motion instead of fighting against the whips (and your body’s) natural flow.

Sergei · Post by **Sergei** » Fri Mar 14, 2003 5:45 pm

Good stuff, Kyle...

-Sergei

WhipMaster_Indy · Post by **WhipMaster_Indy** » Fri Mar 14, 2003 5:55 pm

heres a tip with a forword crack well with my whip you really gotta use your body to get a good crack off so lean forword like throwing a baseball wall you swing the whip out

racerx · Post by **racerx** » Tue Jul 22, 2003 7:46 pm

I have a question as to the quality of whips sold on ebay,
I've noticed that some times when a new whipmaker appears on ebay, (or atleast one that I haven't heard off)
and tells about the construction of the whip they made and
offer a moneyback guarantee, will often site that they are a member of the Australian whipmakers and plaiter association.

It that considered to be a sigh of quality and craftsmanship? if the whipmaker is a member? or does that make any difference at all.

Just wondering,
I've noticed that from time to time.

By the way, thanks for the guide lines, I've already copied and pasted them to my notebook.

All the best.

Jim J

Mola Ram · Post by **Mola Ram** » Tue Jul 22, 2003 10:49 pm

Thanks Kyle,
This really helps so i can self inspect my own
whips due to the fact that the only whips i will
ever own....well at this point in time are the ones
that i have made my self....and have nothing to
compare my whips to. This helped as a great
refrence to set my quality standards to. I am
almost finished with my first bullwhip and i will
post pictures when i attach the knots which is
all i have to do

Molorom

indybill · Post by **indybill** » Wed Jul 23, 2003 10:34 am

Thanks for the great info.

I copied this to my computer
so when I can someday afford
to look at a bullwhip I'll know
what to look for.

The_Edge · Post by **The_Edge** » Thu Jul 24, 2003 4:53 pm

racerx wrote:I have a question as to the quality of whips sold on ebay,
I've noticed that some times when a new whipmaker appears on ebay, (or atleast one that I haven't heard off)
and tells about the construction of the whip they made and
offer a moneyback guarantee, will often site that they are a member of the Australian whipmakers and plaiter association.

It that considered to be a sigh of quality and craftsmanship? if the whipmaker is a member? or does that make any difference at all.

Just wondering,
I've noticed that from time to time.

By the way, thanks for the guide lines, I've already copied and pasted them to my notebook.

All the best.

Jim J

You can read out the APWA at their web site.

The Australian Plaiters and Whipmakers Association

racerx · Post by **racerx** » Mon Jul 28, 2003 1:19 am

thanks Kyle,
I think that they are a great, and provide a wealth of information on whipmaking, and have good standards for quality whipmaking.

Infact its about time I joined

.

Cheers!

Jim J.

Indycraze71 · Post by **Indycraze71** » Mon Jul 28, 2003 2:03 am

Great info and a great post thanks for sharing! Brett