what affects sleeve ride-up and how much is normal?

Arca Perdida · Post by **Arca Perdida** » Sun Mar 30, 2008 2:46 pm

My sleeves come down to my thumb knuckle with my arms down. Plenty long there. However, when driving or reaching for something or even just stretching my arms out in front of me, they ride up to a good 3 inches past my wrists. Tying my shoes makes them ride up half way my forearm.
What parts of a jacket's pattern contribute to that? And how much is the kind of hide itself to blame? Are some leathers more likely to do that?
My same jacket can be long or short depending on what I'm doing.

morganswift · Post by **morganswift** » Sun Mar 30, 2008 3:09 pm

I know what you mean about the tying shoelaces. I think that has to do with how much 'slack' there is in the back of the jacket. I've got a horsehide jacket and a lambskin both with the same sleeve length and the hh is always tight across the back when I tie my shoelaces. Perhaps it's to do with 'play' in the different types of leather too.

You can tell I have no idea what I'm talking about can't you?

But I empathise...

Alex

Weston · Post by **Weston** » Sun Mar 30, 2008 5:15 pm

It has to do with how low on the torso the sleeves connect, and whether or not the action pleat is properly designed and doing it's job. I'll try to clarify what I mean if this sounds confusing

Weston

Arca Perdida · Post by **Arca Perdida** » Sun Mar 30, 2008 7:57 pm

Weston, would higher armholes minimize the effect? As for the action pleats, I have no idea if they're doing what they're supposed to or not, but if keeping the sleeves from riding up is it, they're not

Weston · Post by **Weston** » Mon Mar 31, 2008 12:58 am

I'm not sure what you mean by higher arm holes. Smaller ones would help, so that the sleeve is attatched closer to your underarm rather than further down the body of the jacket. So would underarm gussets, but again, they have to be designed to function. The action pleats should be closed, or folded in like an accordian when your arms are down by you sides, and they should open and unfold when you reach forward. The same goes for underarm gussets. They should fold up when your arms are down, and open up when your arms come up. If you are wearing your jacket, and you see that the action pleats are already opened and extended while you are standing with your arms at your sides then you gain no benefit from the design.

Even so it is normal for the sleeves to ride up a little when driving, but if the jacket does what I described above they won't ride up very much at all. Look at the designs of motorcycle jackets. You will see narrow sleeves, small armholes, and deep action pleats. That is because the main use for a motorcycle jacket requires the arms to by up and forward, and not ride up.

I have some jackets that function well, and some that do not. I will have to take some pics to demonstrate what it is I've been talking about. Hope that helps.

Weston