quick measurement question

[afrayedknot]

I've mentioned this before in another thread, but I'm planning on ordering my first Wested Raiders jacket. I own a denim Wested and had the sleeves shortened. The sleeve measures 23 inches from the shoulder seam to the cuff. My arm measurement from my shoulder to the first thumb knuckle is 24 inches. I've noticed that the shoulder seam hangs about an inch from my shoulder as it seems to do on Indy's jacket in the movies. My question is, which measurement should I send to Peter? Also, when I specify sleeve length, should I compensate for any wrinkling?