need some in choosing the right size

Cougarnrw · Post by **Cougarnrw** » Sun Feb 10, 2008 6:28 am

For people who already got a wested maybe you can recommend me which size to order for Raiders jacket ROTLA.
My chest size is about 39,50 inches and my height is 182cm. Would you go for a 40R or a 42R , I just wanted to order a standard not customised jacket.

thanks in advance for help!
cheers
cris

IndianaChris711 · Post by **IndianaChris711** » Sun Feb 10, 2008 11:09 am

This is what I have been wondering myself lately. I ordered a 40R in the 80's cut and have been wearing the jacket it pretty good and it fits fairly tightly when I zip it up. Which is fine by me, I love the jacket. I am not sure with a standard if you order a 40 if the front is a bit more baggy in the chest area than an 80's cut. I think a 40 would be alright, but a 42 might be better I am not sure. You have a very similar chest size to me. I got a 40 in 80's cut and it fits like a glove. All I know is standard is a bit more baggy so a 40R might be fine, I don't know. Someone else with more experience who has owned a few standards would know better than me. I have been thinking about this myself, since my 40 in 80's cut fits so tightly, thinking about ordering a jacket in standard cut with some customization.

Anyone out there have experience with standard and 80's cut.

IndianaChris

FLATHEAD · Post by **FLATHEAD** » Sun Feb 10, 2008 1:56 pm

Wested's regular Indy jackets have 4 inches of movement room over
the tagged size, and the 80's cut is slightly less than that, which is around
2.5 inches over tagged size.

What does this mean? It means that a size 40 REGULAR will measure
out to 44 inches around the chest, and the size 40 80's cut will measure
out to 42.5 inches around the chest.

A size 42 REGULAR will measure out to 46 inches around the chest, and
the size 42 80's cut will measure out to 44.5 around the chest.

The best advise for you is to take a jacket that you already own, and
that you like the way it fits you, and measure it.

Zip it up, lay it flat on your bed, with the zipper facing UP, and smooth
it out so there are no wrinkles in it.

Then, measure it from one armpit seam, across the chest, to the other
armpit seam.

Double this number, and you will have this jackets total chest measurement.

Compare that to what a Wested REGULAR and 80's cut jackets are,
and go from there to find the size/fit YOU like best.

Flathead

IndianaChris711 · Post by **IndianaChris711** » Sun Feb 10, 2008 4:09 pm

Hey thanks flathead for posting those measurements. I hope that helps Cougarnrw, and it also helps myself. I was not sure what the difference is. So now if I am going to order a standard jacket I should go with a 40R. I have an 80's cut in 40R it fits, but man it can be a bit tight sometimes. I probably should have gone for a 42 in 80's cut, oh well. I measured out my 40 80's cut and it definately comes close to the 42.5 inches total around the chest. How did you find out all these measurements anyway? I guess if I was you Courgarnrw I would probably order a 40R standard, but I would measure a leather jacket first that fits you just like Flathead stated. Then go from there. Very helpful Flathead. Thanks.

IndianaChris

FLATHEAD · Post by **FLATHEAD** » Sun Feb 10, 2008 7:36 pm

How did you find out all these measurements anyway?

Not be be a buster, but if you use the search button at the top of this
website, you can find all of this information. Its been posted at least
a dozen or more times.

If your 80's cut size 40 is just a tad too small, then I would suggest you
get a size 40 regular.

If you go up to a size 42 80's cut, its going to be just a wee bit larger
in the chest than the size 40 regular, but it will also be longer in the
body, the shoulders will be wider, and the sleeves will be longer unless
you go with a custom measurement for that.

The best thing you can do is call Wested, and talk to them in person about
the different measurements of each size jacket you are looking at.

Flathead

Cougarnrw · Post by **Cougarnrw** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 2:02 am

Flathead, thanks for your posting, this really helps me in choosing the right size and the right cut!

thanx!

Cougarnrw · Post by **Cougarnrw** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 10:54 am

I ordered a raiders with following measures and it is already in process:

Horsehide leather,
Height: 182cm
Chest: 101cm
Sleeve: 63cm
Jacket_Size: 40-42
Jacket style: Raiders Jacket
Leather: Authentic Brown Horsehide
Lining / Zip: Cotton Body-Satin Sleeves (rec)

According wested informations it'll be a 42. I did not state a 80's cut or something else so it'll be a regular I think.

I know hope it won't be too big for me, cause of the non 80's version?

What do you think, my chest is 40'' and my height is 182cm.

cheers
cou

FLATHEAD · Post by **FLATHEAD** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 11:29 am

If the jacket is indeed a size 42 regular, then, using the information we
have provided to you, how much movement room will you have in the
chest?

Do the math, and let us know if thats what you want in a jacket.

To be honest, no one but YOU can determine what will fit you best.

Did you compare what your new Wested will be to a jacket you already
own per the information provided to ensure the fit you like best BEFORE
you placed your order?

I personally like my jackets to fit just slightly roomier than a standard
military fit, so I always order accordingly to get the fit that I like best.

Flathead

IndianaChris711 · Post by **IndianaChris711** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 1:09 pm

Thanks Flathead, I may go with a 40R in a standard cut with some customization. Ya I know about the search at the top of the page, I just was wondering where you came up with all those numbers.

I may give Peter a call when I order my next jacket I am not sure. I have talked with him before and had a few questions for him on the jackets. He always sounds busy, which he probably is since he is making so many jackets right now.

Cougarnrw, I hope the jacket you order fits you well. I measured a jacket of mine I have had for many years and looks like 40 standard and 42 in 80's fit is where my comfort lies from the measurements Flathead provided, I already have a 40 in 80's fit. I am not sure what your size is, but I would have compared it the measurements of a jacket you own to the measurements Flathead provided here of the Westeds. If 42 is what works for you then by all means stay with that size. You want a jacket that fits you well. I hope that helps some.

IndianaChris

FLATHEAD · Post by **FLATHEAD** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 2:44 pm

I just was wondering where you came up with all those numbers.

Several places actually.

First, when I want a jacket from a certain vendor, I ask them what kind
of fit their jackets have, whether it be trim/military or loose/modern.

The internet is also a vast pot of knowledge, and doing simple searches for
things like "military fit" or "modern fit" in any of the latest search engines
will get you just about any of the info you desire. This site being one
of those places to find info.

Besides asking questions, research is your friend.

By doing just these two simple things, I have found most of the info I
need to make my jacket choice from every vendor.

A typical military fit is 4 inches of incorporated movement room in the
garment. This means that whatever the tagged size of the garment is,
the actual chest measurement will be 4 inches bigger than that. Thus a
size 44 military fit will have a 48 inch chest.

This gives the garment a trim fit, with enough room to move around,
but not be too tight. Jackets like vintage WWII A-2 jackets, repro A-2's
by places like Eastman and Aero leather, and the Indy jackets
from Wested have this fit in their regular sizes. If you plan on wearing
multiple layers under this type of jacket, it will get tight fitting very
quickly. This fit is also what most people have never experienced before,
and it WILL seem tight to them at first, because they are used to the
modern cut of todays clothes. So, most people will "size up" to get a larger
jacket because they think its too small, when its actually just right. But
if you like your jackets to be looser, then by all means, "size up".

People who have large stomachs, are overweight, or just not in the
same shape as they were like when they were 20 do not usually look good in
military fit clothing, so, the modern fit is more tailored for them.

A typical modern fit is 6 to 8 inches of incorporated movement room in
the chest of the garment. So a tagged size 44 will have a chest measurement
ranging anywhere from 50 to 52 inches. That makes it fit very loose and
baggy, and thats what most people are used to these days. Most jackets
from people like LL Bean or LandsEnd are like this. US Wings Indy jackets
are more of a modern fit, and even some of the repro A-2 jackets made by Flightsuits are made like
this, as seen by the measurements posted on websites like VLJ forums
or the Fedor Lounge, and even this website.

This type of modern fit is good for layering multiple items underneath it
and still have room to move around in very easily. But again, it looks
baggy and sometimes quite silly on very skinny people who look as
though they are wearing an oversized sack.

There are other factors like how much a garment tapers down from
the chest to the waist. A military fit will usually taper down 4 to 6 inches
and a modern cut will taper usually just about 2 inches to nothing.

That means a military fit jacket, in a regular size 44, will have a chest
measurement of 48 inches, and a waist measurement of about 42 inches.

A modern cut 44 jacket will have a chest measurement of 50 inches,
and the waist will be anywhere from 48 to 50 inches, as it does not
taper as much.

Thats why people with a nice pasta belly will not fit correctly into a military
fit jacket, as there is too much taper from the chest to the waist, and they
end up looking like a stuffed sausage.

You get the point...

Flathead

Cougarnrw · Post by **Cougarnrw** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 3:39 pm

Right now I'm really excited how my ordered jacket will fit and hopefully won't be to roomy for me.
Normally I wear M (40-42) jackets, as I already have a size 40 CockpitUSA A-2 flight jacket modern day and a CockpitUSA G-1 in 42 military fit. Both are fitting fine!

I'll post some photos when the jacket arrives!

cheers

FLATHEAD · Post by **FLATHEAD** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 5:20 pm

I already have a size 40 CockpitUSA A-2 flight jacket modern day and a CockpitUSA G-1 in 42 military fit. Both are fitting fine!

It would be GREAT if you could post some measurements of those two
jackets for us!!

This is EXACTLY the type of info that would help make someone elses
order of either of these types of jackets from this vendor much more
accurate, and help them zero in on the fit they would like to get!!

Plus, we can always use more info on cool jackets!!

Flathead

Cougarnrw · Post by **Cougarnrw** » Tue Feb 12, 2008 3:11 am

The G-1 Flight jacket has following measures:

shoulder lenght on each side: 16cm

shoulder seam to other shoulder seam: about 50cm

lenght of the jacket incl. collar: about 70cm

My A2 jacket currently gets some modification (flight patches) and will be back end of next week.

FLATHEAD · Post by **FLATHEAD** » Tue Feb 12, 2008 6:57 am

Don't forget the chest measurement. Thats the most important one of
all.

Flathead