Resin Indy guns questions for owners/prospective buyers PIC
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- nicktheguy
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- Indiana G
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i'm in no rush KN....take your time to make it perfect. even if you send it next month, there's alot of gear that i own where i've waited much longerKingNothing wrote:Alright... Cool guys. Will be holding off for a bit.
So here's a bit of an update. I am awaiting paint to dry on 6 guns right now. I'm also making the dummy rounds and experimenting paint colors for the grips. So it's coming together. Not much work before I get 6 out the door and then shortly after the rest. I like to work with a smaller amount and get them done at once, rather than try to do all the orders (which is more than 6). This way people get to see that there is progress. lol.
I'll post some pics sometime here, once everything is satisfactory. Again I know it's been a while, but the wait will be worth it!
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I think it's a requirement that you must wait to be part of this hobby.
Darn, I'm not part of the first six but that's ok, you can learn from your mistakes with the first 6 and therefore mine will be perfect.
I'll just pretend that you work for the gov't, so I know I won't get it for six months, just like my taxes
IL
Darn, I'm not part of the first six but that's ok, you can learn from your mistakes with the first 6 and therefore mine will be perfect.
I'll just pretend that you work for the gov't, so I know I won't get it for six months, just like my taxes
IL
- Indiana G
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not first SIX lurch....first ONE.....and that one goes to boyd....because he's a leafs fanindiana lurch wrote:I think it's a requirement that you must wait to be part of this hobby.
Darn, I'm not part of the first six but that's ok, you can learn from your mistakes with the first 6 and therefore mine will be perfect.
I'll just pretend that you work for the gov't, so I know I won't get it for six months, just like my taxes
IL
i heard KN made his extra special so that he can shoot around a corner......i guess indy would of saved marion from the truck if he had that feature eh?
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Hey guys. SO. Everything is almost done for the first 6. And then. I experimented with something. I found some brass powder, and I really really wish I would have listened to that member here who suggested it and I just shrugged it off. I cold cast a couple parts, and oh my. It made the casting/painting, about a billion times faster. I have enough for the rest of the gun and I'll do an experiment this weekend. Then I'll weigh each one and see. But the only thing is it's a tad more brittle. And a lot more expensive. But it's nice and heavy, feels like metal, looks good too.
So if all works out, and you guys are willing to wait just a bit longer I can do cold cast with task 8 plastic, so it's stronger than a regular cc, but still heavy. I hate to tack on time, but I know how everyone wants complete accuracy, so... The only thing is it's faily expensive and I'm willing to eat up most of the cost, if the buyer pays a little, just to even it out? I hate to ask that, but I think you would be so happy with it.
Anyways I don't want to throw a wrench in to the mix, and delay stuff even longer, but if you want a real close to the real steel replica, this might be the way to go. If you need just a holster stuffer that's fine too. The extra cost would be $20 per gun, and I'll cover the rest of the cost. So if you really want it let me know ASAP. You don't have to pay until it's done if you don't want.
Now if only the grips would show up! (beginning to get nervous), but a package showed up yesterday that I ordered in Dec, so there's not too much to worry about!
Yes I should have listened, you told me so!
Thanks everyone!
So if all works out, and you guys are willing to wait just a bit longer I can do cold cast with task 8 plastic, so it's stronger than a regular cc, but still heavy. I hate to tack on time, but I know how everyone wants complete accuracy, so... The only thing is it's faily expensive and I'm willing to eat up most of the cost, if the buyer pays a little, just to even it out? I hate to ask that, but I think you would be so happy with it.
Anyways I don't want to throw a wrench in to the mix, and delay stuff even longer, but if you want a real close to the real steel replica, this might be the way to go. If you need just a holster stuffer that's fine too. The extra cost would be $20 per gun, and I'll cover the rest of the cost. So if you really want it let me know ASAP. You don't have to pay until it's done if you don't want.
Now if only the grips would show up! (beginning to get nervous), but a package showed up yesterday that I ordered in Dec, so there's not too much to worry about!
Yes I should have listened, you told me so!
Thanks everyone!
I think Todd was messing around with the same stuff cuz' I remember him stating that some would be more realistic and heavier, yet a bit more brittle. He recommended it to be more of a show piece than for regular costuming use. I remember someone stating it would not be best to drop it.
I'm wondering though, just how brittle will it be compared to the standard resin piece? Would it be more of a show piece of will it be able to take a little bit of use?
Can't wait to see the pics.
I'm wondering though, just how brittle will it be compared to the standard resin piece? Would it be more of a show piece of will it be able to take a little bit of use?
Can't wait to see the pics.
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Well I just am whipping up some sample peices to compare with. I don't have any real Mythbusters equipment to test, but I'll just make two things about the same size and put them in a vice slowly to see which lasts longer.agent5 wrote:I think Todd was messing around with the same stuff cuz' I remember him stating that some would be more realistic and heavier, yet a bit more brittle. He recommended it to be more of a show piece than for regular costuming use. I remember someone stating it would not be best to drop it.
I'm wondering though, just how brittle will it be compared to the standard resin piece? Would it be more of a show piece of will it be able to take a little bit of use?
Can't wait to see the pics.
Then I will drop both... I'll let you know the results. I'm awaiting th resin to cure.
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Oh I agree there.Indiana G wrote:let me know what you find out KN......if the new brass powder stuff is the way to go, i'll gladly pay you the premium.
my only concern is that i don't want it breaking in the holster
So what I've found out so far, is that the nickel/silver powder cold cast is handling the abuse better than the straight resin. The resin will crack after a quarter turn on the vice, and the cold cast will barely crack. It also smooshes more. So it seems to be taking constant pressure better. When a hard strike is applied to the resins, the plain resin cracks, whereas the cold cast resin doesn't. The only thing is when the cold cast resin is real thin, it is more brittle. I'm talking like construction paper thin, maybe 1/16" or .5mm... At .2" is is insanely tough. I tried everything to crack it and all it would do is chip. That included me lining it up on the edge of the vice and hitting it with a hammer. Just chipped off a peice. Didn't crack. There isn't any thin walls like that on the gun, the thinnest being the walls of the barrel when they're drilled out. But I can cheat it by keeping them .1" thicker than normal. It would be hard to notice visually.
So tonight I will make a full replica with the cold cast. Then I will test it out by taking one regular and one cold cast, and throwing them against the floor, dropping, and abusing them. We'll see.
I want to make this thing as practical and cool as possible!! Sorry for the late developments again, I feel bad for delaying it so freaking much. Just trying to make the best #### replica out there.
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boyd is a leaf fan so that means he's gonna get rid of the this one and replace it with a previous one being a leaf fan, he might as well have the barrel bent down so he can shoot himself in the foot, it's less painful then watching them.Indiana G wrote:not first SIX lurch....first ONE.....and that one goes to boyd....because he's a leafs fanindiana lurch wrote:I think it's a requirement that you must wait to be part of this hobby.
Darn, I'm not part of the first six but that's ok, you can learn from your mistakes with the first 6 and therefore mine will be perfect.
I'll just pretend that you work for the gov't, so I know I won't get it for six months, just like my taxes
IL
i heard KN made his extra special so that he can shoot around a corner......i guess indy would of saved marion from the truck if he had that feature eh?
KN - which ever will be stronger and tougher as mine will be used in and out of the holster and it probably will get dropped etc.
IL
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Hey guys, just pulled the cold cast version from the mold. ####. That thing is heavy. I also found out it's really tricky to pre-pour with 1:1:1 mixing ratio, but I got it now. don't worry. I dropped it on the carpet on the barrel and nothing happened. That was by accident though.
My guess is if you drop it from waist height onto concrete something on it might chip. I'm confident the barrel or something big won't break, but we gotta be realistic these are still plastic. I can't wait to see the weight with dummy rounds (I am also filling those with metal to get cool primers), the lanyard rings etc. But I'm thinking it'll be working!
My guess is if you drop it from waist height onto concrete something on it might chip. I'm confident the barrel or something big won't break, but we gotta be realistic these are still plastic. I can't wait to see the weight with dummy rounds (I am also filling those with metal to get cool primers), the lanyard rings etc. But I'm thinking it'll be working!
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The cold cast one is looking good. The thing is freaking HEAVY!
Now after testing and whatnot, it is a bit more brittle. I'm doing one more test peice with a lesser mix and see how that goes, maybe get the best of both worlds. And if that doesn't work then I'll just continue on to get these out the doors, it's been so long. I just got a delivery notice today, with the appropriate amount taxes for the grips! So I think it's them (wasn't expecting anything else). So if that's true, then They'll be sitting in silicone tomorrow. Which is great.
So what my next test peice is, will be a powder coat of the mould, and then the amount of metal to resin will be 1A:1B: .75 Metal. Hopefully that'll be good. BUt that fully cast metal one is freaking heavy and has a nice feel to it. If only it wasn't so brittle.
Russ - thanks for the tip, I'll give it a whirl too. Thanks for sticking with it everyone!
Now after testing and whatnot, it is a bit more brittle. I'm doing one more test peice with a lesser mix and see how that goes, maybe get the best of both worlds. And if that doesn't work then I'll just continue on to get these out the doors, it's been so long. I just got a delivery notice today, with the appropriate amount taxes for the grips! So I think it's them (wasn't expecting anything else). So if that's true, then They'll be sitting in silicone tomorrow. Which is great.
So what my next test peice is, will be a powder coat of the mould, and then the amount of metal to resin will be 1A:1B: .75 Metal. Hopefully that'll be good. BUt that fully cast metal one is freaking heavy and has a nice feel to it. If only it wasn't so brittle.
Russ - thanks for the tip, I'll give it a whirl too. Thanks for sticking with it everyone!
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The problem with adding metallic powders to resin is that you finally get to a point where you just can't add any more metal without compromising the materials.
As I stated above, if resin part "A" is 1 oz, and part B is one ounce, then I add appx. .5 to .6/.7 oz of powder to the A side. I usually stir it for a good minute to minute and a half to get it thoroughly mixed in and then I add the B side to the A, and mix that for an additional 30 seconds before pouring.
From there you can move into "real" metal casting, but you need a good heat source and probably a spin casting rig to get good results. Plus, there is some amount of danger in casting metals, as "low temp" metals have a melting point between 400-600 degrees. And unlike resin, you spill THAT on your foot and it doesn't just wreck a pair of shoes, it wrecks a foot! Aluminum, the "holy grail" of prop making has an even higher melting point approaching 1K degrees.
(/end stupid prop making lecture... )
Looking forward to seeing what your "final" project looks like!
Russ
As I stated above, if resin part "A" is 1 oz, and part B is one ounce, then I add appx. .5 to .6/.7 oz of powder to the A side. I usually stir it for a good minute to minute and a half to get it thoroughly mixed in and then I add the B side to the A, and mix that for an additional 30 seconds before pouring.
From there you can move into "real" metal casting, but you need a good heat source and probably a spin casting rig to get good results. Plus, there is some amount of danger in casting metals, as "low temp" metals have a melting point between 400-600 degrees. And unlike resin, you spill THAT on your foot and it doesn't just wreck a pair of shoes, it wrecks a foot! Aluminum, the "holy grail" of prop making has an even higher melting point approaching 1K degrees.
(/end stupid prop making lecture... )
Looking forward to seeing what your "final" project looks like!
Russ
Last edited by Rook on Sat Feb 02, 2008 5:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Indeed, I'm trying that right now and we'll see.Rook wrote:The problem with adding metallic powders to resin is that you finally get to a point where you just can't add any more metal without compromising the materials.
As I stated above, if resin part "A" is 1 oz, and part B is one ounce, then I add appx. .5 to .6/.7 oz of powder to the A side. I usually stir it for a good minute to minute and a half to get it thoroughly mixed in and then I add the B side to the A, and mix that for an additional 30 seconds before pouring.
From there you can move into "real" metal casting, but you need a good heat source and probably a spin casting rig to get good results. Plus, there is some amount of danger in casting metals, as "low temp" metals have a melting point between 400-600 degrees. And unlike resin, you spill THAT on your foot and it doesn't just wreck a pair of shoes, it wrecks a foot! Aluminum, the "holy grail" of prop making has an even higher melting point approaching 1K degrees.
(/end stupid prop making lecture... )
Looking forward to seeing what your "final" project looks like!
Russ
On another note, I did get the grips in! And they are sweet!! Just getting a new scale to measure my silicone and they're going under. The last peice is complete. Well that and replicating the colour of them, but that shouldn't be too bad.
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Ahhh a weekend in the shop. Working hard. Got 6 more guns ready for paint tomorrow.
Here's some pics. The silverish gun is one as it is out of the mould. Before it's painted and clear coated. The one on the right is a painted gun that didn't have enough gun blue. And please ignore the colour of the trigger and hammer on the black one as it's terribly off.
Here's some pics. The silverish gun is one as it is out of the mould. Before it's painted and clear coated. The one on the right is a painted gun that didn't have enough gun blue. And please ignore the colour of the trigger and hammer on the black one as it's terribly off.
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Hey Croft, no nothing. I just liquid mask the barrel and paint orange on it. I also put latex over the trademarks just to be on the safe side.
Here's some more pics. These were dirty casts so they aren't the best as they will be. A coat of clear needs to be added to give it that real blued look. But I think the distressing is good for a SA peice. Maybe a tad more for hoslter wear etc. Let me know what you guys think!
Yeah I know the extractor rod is crooked on here... That was my bad. They're not all like that.
Here's some more pics. These were dirty casts so they aren't the best as they will be. A coat of clear needs to be added to give it that real blued look. But I think the distressing is good for a SA peice. Maybe a tad more for hoslter wear etc. Let me know what you guys think!
Yeah I know the extractor rod is crooked on here... That was my bad. They're not all like that.
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gun
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Hey guys. So the first 4 are almost ready to go out the door. I have to put the primers in the ammo and put the lanyard rings on and there ya go. So I'll get them out Monday as I have to do a lot of stuff, and the lanyard rings are at the shop. And I'm on set, so it's really tough as it's across town. So the weekend I'll be settling down.
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