Going to order a Wested Raiders jacket, Need a few pointers

[IndianaChris711]

I have been wanting to get the Indiana Jones gear for many years. Now I have the time and the money to buy the gear finally. I am wanting to order a Raiders Jacket from Wested, but I don't know a whole lot about the Jacket. I am kind of stuck right now with choosing the authentic brown lambskin, horsehide, and maybe this dark brown veg tanned lambskin Indiana G mentioned Peter might be getting after his trip from Italy.
I have to get measured by a local tailor, but this is what I know so far I am wanting

Style: Raiders
Pattern: 80's
Lining: Cotton
side fastener: Not sure whether to order the brass D ring or the rectangle?
Sliders: Someone mentioned rectangle silver sliders, are these still available.
Zipper: I am wanting the 5 gauge nickel, does anyone know if Peter carries this or not?
Should I get a leather facing on the zipper? I thought Peter put that on standard.

Is there anything else I need to be aware of before ordering a Raiders jacket? I know it is going to take a long time for me to get my jacket after I order it so I want to make sure I have all the specs down on paper. When I called to ask about the shirt and pants, Peter told me I would probably be a 40-42 in a jacket, but again I need to have myself measured. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

IndianaChris

[McFly]

Sliders and side fasteners are the same thing - you want the rectangles, which should be BLACK, not silver. Also, you can email them and ask if they have the 5 gage nickel in stock currently and tell them that if not, you're not interested. Otherwise you MAY be told they have them and then if they run out while your jacket is waiting to be made, you might *surprise!* get the regular one.

I'd say make sure you get your sleeves to go to about your first thumb knuckle. The sleeves will wrinkle a little and get shorter, and then it'll be at the right length. I'd also suggest auth. lamb - which is what I have - but IFF (that's a math abbreviation) you don't plan on doing a whole lot of actual adventuring in it. It's not fragile like tissue paper, but it's not the toughest leather in the world either. Otherwise, you'll want to go for one of those other ones, like the HH or the Veg-tan; neither of which I can speak for, myself.

Good luck!
Shane

[Panama Tom Jr.]

Definitely go with rectangular sliders – I had D rings on my first Wested and they slipped a lot – my current has rectangles and they don’t slip at all. If you order by phone mention that you want the arm holes positioned so that the jacket body doesn’t fly open when you raise your arms (flying squirrels anyone?)
Also, even though the all cotton body is screen accurate, I would suggest getting the satin sleeves. I have cotton and if I wear a long sleeve shirt I have to hold onto the cuff of the sleeve as I put on the jacket or it gets hung up. Satin sleeves won’t do this.
There’s all kind of things you can request, but if you go too far overboard you can end up with something that doesn't function correctly and you won’t like it. Order by phone, mention your areas of concern, and let them suggest what should be done to make sure you get a jacket that fits and functions well…

[IndianaChris711]

Thanks for your help IndyMcFly and Panama Tom Jr. I will likely call Wested when I order my Jacket. Does anyone have an opinion as to what hide looks accurate to the Raiders jacket. I have read people raving about the Horsehide, there is the authentic brown lambskin. Indiana G mentioned Peter might be getting a new hide after his trip from Italy, a dark brown veg tanned lambskin, which might be a bit more screen accurate. What are your opinion on the hide and is Peter getting some of this dark brown veg tanned lambskin Indiana G mentioned.

[Doug C]

My .02$ on the leather, I think to get the right look you'd want to go with a thin leather... imagine when Indy's running towards Jock's plane, remember how it's flapping around? That probably has to be somewhat thin..but I don't think the leather used was as thin as what Wested is using (Auth.& Dark Brown Lambskin) now. There is the vegetable tanned lambskin that I think is a world closer to screen accurate except for the color that they now have, hopefull the darker variety will be announced soon - before we run out of freaking cool weather (fingers crossed). Then there is the lambtouch cowhide which I think is a good choice, except that the pictures of it that we've seen lately have a sort of plastic-y look to it IMHO, a bit too glossy (could probably be remedied with some acetone).

Doug C

[Panama Tom Jr.]

Here’s the deal with color – do you want the color that the actual jacket was in person or do you want the color as it appeared on film? In most scenes in Raiders the jacket appeared dark brown, even black in some cases. In some of the intro scenes before Indy enters the temple you can see the actually color in the sun – the lighter brown, almost reddish tint. To put it simply- authentic brown in more of a Milk Chocolate color, while the dark brown is more like, well, dark chocolate. I hear Horse is somewhere in between.
Anyhoo, figure out which look is more important to you and go from there…
P.S. Have you tried requesting leather samples from Wested? They sent me a baggie full when I asked and it definitely changed what I ended up choosing...

[Indiana G]

the tan coloured veg tanned leather is SA only because it is veg tanned lamb (ie - the treatment of the lambskin is the same). it is not the same colour or weight as the screen jacket based on the fact that _ says the weight of the lamb from the movies is what peter is using now on his authentic brown lamb (which is much lighter than the veg tanned leather....as i own(ed) both).

i am staying away from chrome tanned leather from any animal point forward as this kind of leather will end up looking new for 100 years and as agent 5 says, "a shiney new jacket isn't very indy" i am not into the distressing of new jackets but i want the jacket to look the part.

i am intrigued with the novapelle cowhide as it is not an over-the-top predistressed hide as we have seen in the past and may just end up going this route for my next jacket. its a pitty that peter hasn't found any dark brown veg tanned lamb in a lighter oz weight.......if this would be available at wested, then it would be all out bedlam at the ordering desk (just from me alone! )

[Doug C]

Indiana G Wote :

i am staying away from chrome tanned leather from any animal point forward as this kind of leather will end up looking new

I whole heartedly agree and have felt that way for a long time. Can't understand why it's not more of an issue with jacket fans. Of course there are the apparently large group of folk who want to preserve the new look and therefore chrome is the way to go for them I guess.

Doug C

[bobbyd]

I, too, would be very interested in dark brown veg tanned lamb - has anybody heard from Peter as to the likelihood of it's availability?

Back to the thread - IndianaChris I've been reading this board almost non-stop for the last few weeks, paying particular attention to info regarding ordering custom Wested jackets. Here's what I've found so far:

Regarding fit and measurement - the below jacket sizing info from Crusader556 (which he found on another site) was originally posted in the following thread, copying it here for the sake of info consolidation: viewtopic.php?t=15367

JACKET SIZING:



A) CHEST - Measure high under armpits, spanning the widest part of your chest, bring tape around for one 360 degree complete measure.

B) BACK LENGTH - Measure from nape of neck (at collar seam) to 1 1/4" below BOTTOM of belt line. This is where a waist-length jacket should fall. If you desire a longer length, please mention how much longer.

C) SHOULDER SPAN - Measure across back in a straight line, from edge of shoulder to opposite edge of shoulder.

D) ARM - Measure from top edge of shoulder to top thumb knuckle.

E) SLEEVE - Measure from nape of neck to shoulder edge, then down arm to bottom of wrist bone.

F) WAIST - Measure 1 1/2" below your navel for a complete 360 degree measurement.

G) HEIGHT - Total height in feet and inches.

Obviously the measurements listed above represent more detail than what one is prompted for on Wested's site. For all I know, Peter and co. would summarily dismiss the additional detail.

JACKET SPECS:
Agent5 has put together the most comprehensive list of Raiders SA specs I've seen, most recently referenced here by the man himself. viewtopic.php?t=20372&postdays=0&postor ... &start=100

Here, again, is his list of specs; with a few asterisks added by yours truly where I felt some additional info may be useful.

1. Leather- Authentic brown lambskin leather. (*The jackets in the film were vegetable tanned lambskin. Which hide to use for your jacket is, of course, a matter of personal preference; the differences between them are the subject of much discussion on this board.)

2. Pattern- 919 (Chris King/80's cut/thinner) pattern.

3. Lining- Cotton Silesia lining / body and sleeves. (*While the screen jacket def had full cotton lining, Wested recommends Cotton lining with satin sleeves so as to make getting your arms in and out a bit easier; I'm inclined to agree).

4. Zipper- 5 gauge aluminum zipper with small zipper pull that extends to the bottom of the jacket. (*Though the screen worn jacket indeed had an aluminum zipper, Wested doesn't actually offer aluminum. I've been told, however, that if you send them one they'll be happy to use it. For my 2 cents, when I ultimately order my jacket I'm going with a 5 gauge nickel zipper, it's still silver and is a little stronger than aluminum. I believe Wested's standard zipper is 8 gauge brass, which is what you'll get if you do not specify otherwise.)

5. Leather facing- NO inside leather facing on the zipper. (*The leather facing around the zipper helps protect against getting the lining caught. The screen used jacket did not have said facing, and many believe that having it has a negative impact on the way the jacket drapes.)

6. Storm Flap- 1.5 inches (3.8cm) width; ROUNDED top corner. (*standard width afaik)

7. Collar stand- Leather collar stand. (*standard afaik)

8. Collar- 2.75 inches (7cm)on the tips, tapering down to 2.5 inches (6.4cm). The left collar should also extend to the midway point of the top of the storm flap, or .75 inches (1.9cm) from the edge of the flap. (*I'd be curious to know if these dimensions here match the standard Wested collar, or the standard Wested "ROLA" collar.)

9. Right Pocket- 1.5 inches (3.8cm) from the zipper seam (edge of jacket).
2 inches (5.1cm) from bottom.
Width of pocket: 6.25 inches (16cm).
Height of pocket (including pocket flap) :7.5 inches. (19.1cm).
Scalloped pocket flap.
Pocket flap length in middle o f flap, 2.75" (7cm) (*Some believe it should be 3")
Aluminum or nickel snap.

10. Left Pocket- 1 inch (2.5cm) from storm flap.
2 inches (5.1cm) from bottom.
Width of pocket: 6.25 inches (16cm).
Height of pocket(including pocket flap) :7.5 inches. (19.1cm).
Scalloped pocket flap.
Pocket flap length in middle of flap, 2.75" (7cm) (*Some believe it should be 3")
Aluminum or nickel snap.

* Regarding pocket size - I do not know if Agent5's pocket size specs are reflected in the Wested ROLA jacket or not. I have been told, however, that unless told otherwise Wested will put what they refer to as Last Crusade pockets, which are rather large, on a custom jacket. To echo the sentiments of KT Templar, it would be excellent if they'd simply accept "I want Raiders sized pockets" or "I want (Wested) Last Crusade sized pockets" - alas they do not, afaik.
* Regarding pocket placement - Todd's jacket pockets are 1.5" from the bottom, and 2.25" inches from the outer seams on either side. I do not know what Wested's standard placement is, it seems to be different on every single jacket I see. If anybody has any more info on this, please chime in!

11. Side Strap- Legnth : 8.75 inches (22.3cm) (*Peter contends that this is way too long. From what I've read, the "proper" length of the side straps depends a lot upon the type of buckles/sliders/rings you use to keep them in place.)
Width : 1 inch (2.5cm)
Side straps sewn with X pattern AND box pattern, double stitched.

12. Side strap buckles- BLACK OR GUNMETAL rectangular 2 piece rings.

13. Side vent stitch- NO stitch holding the side vents closed.

14. Pleat depth- 1.25 inches (3.2cm). (*This has been the subject of much recent debate - see this thread viewtopic.php?t=24578. Suffice to say, both Wested's and Todd's standard pleat depth these days is 1.5". One of our board vets, _, actually handled a couple of Raiders stunt jackets and found the pleat depth to be 2" at the top, tapering down to about 1.5" at the side straps.)

15. Yoke seam- The arm seam should be 1 inch (2.5cm) BELOW the yoke seam. (*The arm seam on the jacket HF wore in Raiders was indeed below the yoke seam; whether it was 1" or 3/4" or 1/2" is the subject of some debate. From pics I've seen of recent Westeds it appears to be standard for the seams to line up. Assuming the yoke is the same "80s cut/Raiders" size (it was shorter on the jackets seen in Raiders than those in ToD), I don't know if the placement of the arm seam has any real impact in terms of fit or drape.)

16. Back panel- The back panel should extend all the way out to the sleeve seam.

17. Inside pocket- Left side, slit (less leather) pocket. (*the inside pocket has a large leather facing around it standard; as with the zipper facing, many contend that this negatively affects the drape of the jacket).

18. Underarm Gussets- 1 piece (small) underarm gussets, or no gussets at all. (*Some of the jackets in Raiders had gussets, some didn't.)


Well, there it is. I apologize if I've misquoted or otherwise taken anyone's name in vain . Please let me know if any of this is misinformation so that I may edit it appropriately.

[CM]

Just make sure your pockets are the right sized. Wested Raiders standard are all wrong. By the way the LC jacket has smaller pockets than Raiders. It's the pocket flap which appears larger - almost to half way doen the pocket. Just look at the Smithsonian jacket and you'll see.

Cheers

[IndianaChris711]

As far as getting the jacket they way it should be, I should make sure jacket body doesn't fly open when I raise my arms (aka Flying Squirrels) For the pocket sizing should I specifically mention dimensions for the pockets. Is Agent5 specs about right for the pockets? Should I be also very specific about the collar as well, or does Wested normally get it down in the specs on that? All I know for pockets is the left one is small than the right pocket. And as far as arm placement, should that be 1inch from the yoke seem or less. Is there a preference on that. I am sorry I am asking so many questions, I just want to get it down right. If only someone could steal George Lucas's Raider jacket hand it to Peter so he could mark the specs down and then give it back to George. I probably wouldn't be asking these silly questions if that were the case. I just need to know if Agent5's pocket dimension are right, arm seam placement below the yoke seam 1in or less, and make sure the arm placement does not fly open when I raise my arms. I think I may go with authentic brown if Peter has not found and dark brown veg tanned lamb. I may go with Horsehide seeing that maybe a bit of both what is in real life and what it looks like in the movie. Thanks again guys for all your help, just need a little help in the specs I mentioned above and whether Agent5's specs are right. Thanks again.

Indiana Chris

[Kt Templar]

I think you are misreading.

The pockets are the same size either side, it's the placement of them that is special and Wested do it to their own formula.

1st and most important what size are you. If you are way outside a 42 the intricate detail in the above spec's do not apply exactly.

[bobbyd]

The pockets are the same size either side, it's the placement of them that is special and Wested do it to their own formula.

KT - do you by any chance know what their "standard" pocket placement formula is? I've seen many different Westeds with many different pocket placement schemes. The newest examples seem to be placed well, but in the interest of sharing info (and avoiding giving Peter a laundry list of specs, some of which may be unnecessary!) it'd be a good thing to know.

1st and most important what size are you. If you are way outside a 42 the intricate detail in the above spec's do not apply exactly.

KT raises an excellent point that I had intended to mention and simply forgot - Agent5's specs are for the jacket he ordered for himself, which was a size 42. Since he and I are the same height (5'10") and both wear a 42, they are perfectly appropriate to me. Given that you're in that range as well, they'll prob be ok for you. As KT points out, of course, someone outside of the 40-44 range may want to adjust some of these specs here and there where appropriate (e.g. pocket size).

[IndianaChris711]

Actually the specs would apply to me since I am in the 40-42 range according to Peter and that is what I wear in a suit jacket right now is a 39 or 40. Again I need measurements done specifically for me cause my arms are pretty slender compared to most people. Ok so it is just the placment of the pockets then, alright I see, that makes it much clearer. What about this flying squirrels thing, do I just mention to make sure to make sure the jacket body doesn't fly open when the arms are raised. Do they make the collar pretty much standard, 2.75 at the tips tappered to 2.5? or do I need to be specific, and as far as arm placment goes do I just mention should the arm seam be 1 inch below the yoke seam. Ya I just got a bit confused with all the specs and need a few answers. When I talked to Peter over the phone about 3-4 weeks ago he said a 40-42 would be about right for me, just based on my waist size. But the pocket info is just placment, that helps, thanks KT and bobbyd, just need a bit more info on the collar and arm placement.

[Kt Templar]

I'd point you towards the ROLTA "special offer" it uses 95% of the most commonly asked for specs. The only thing it doesn't include is the lower arm seams to yoke placement.

[IndianaChris711]

Thanks KT for letting me know about the ROTLA "special offer." Looks like a great jacket, unfortunately I checked Wested and they are all out of stock. I probably am wanting the lower arm seam due to a lot of people complaining about the flying squirrel effect I guess we should call it. I may consider getting the special offer. I am going to wait to order the jacket for a little while longer to see if Peter gets any dark brown veg tanned lambskin. Which would be great if he did, if not I am looking going with either the authentic brown lambskin or the dark lamb. I am leaning towards the dark cause the color looks screen accurate, but I will likely probably get both eventually. Then there is the Horsehide too. Which makes it even more difficult to make a desicion. Thanks for your help KT in clearing up some spec stuff and for mentioning ROTLA special offer, I may consider getting that since it is cheaper than getting it fitted, hopefully my measurements will be good for an off the peg 40 or 42 maybe.

Best

Indiana Chris

[bobbyd]

I probably am wanting the lower arm seam due to a lot of people complaining about the flying squirrel effect

IndianaChris - I'm not speaking from any kind of actual experience, and I'm in the same boat as you in that I'm preparing to order my first Wested; but I don't think the arm seam meeting the yoke seam has anything to do with the flying squirrel effect. Based on opinions of others I've read, as well as some photographic evidence, that phenomenon seems to be due to the larger arm holes that come on the "standard" cut jackets. The "80s" cut jackets have smaller armholes. The top, of course, is at the same location (duh) but the bottom doesn't go down quite as far. If I can find the thread i read on the subject I'll post a link to it.

I am going to wait to order the jacket for a little while longer to see if Peter gets any dark brown veg tanned lambskin.

I think I'm going to wait for the same thing, if only to see what it looks like.

If Peter happens to read this, or if anyone else knows one way or the other - do the collar and pockets (as well as pocket placement) on the ROLA match Agent5's specs? It'd just be nice to know. I figure the fewer specs one has to send to Wested, the better.

-bd

[IndianaChris711]

I think agent5's specs are pretty precise bobbyd for a 40 or 42 even a 44 jacket. I figured the flying squirrel was with the hole measurement in the sleeves as I read a post exactly about it, but thanks for pointing it out bobbyd. I got measured over the weekend and the people that measured me gave me funny looks and commented that how could someone make a jacket only knowing your chest, arm, sleeve, back length, and height in inches. They work on suit jackets so what do you expect. Plus, Peter has been doing this for over 30 years I do trust him in what he wants. Here are my measurements:
chest measured around 39, so a 40 is probably going to do.
The question is my arm measurement was 26 , I could go with 25.75, but it is closer to 26inches.
My sleeve measurement was a 34, and back length was 22.
I think I am around a 40 long I hope. I am going to talk to Peter soon to see what he thinks. Anyone heard anything about the dark brown veg tanned lamb?? I may just order a dark brown lambskin or a authentic brown lamb in 2 weeks or so. Thanks for the help so far.

Indiana Chris

[bobbyd]

IC - I stumbled across Platon's specs last night and, well, since we're on the same mission I thought I'd share the diffs between his and agent5's.

Pockets - 6" width x 7.5" height
Pocket placement - I don't actually know the specifics of these, though I'd very much like to. They're def closer to the bottom of the jacket than the 2" Agent5's specs dictate. Platon apparently drew a picture of how he wanted them placed and emailed it, whether it included measurements I do not know. Said image was included in one of his posts, unfortunately none of Platon's images show up for me. (I get prompted for a user name and password from "stardustrecords.com" - does this happen to anybody else????? Perhaps P's images are not currently set to "public"...? Platon? help?! )

Having seen images of OTHERS' jackets that used Platon's specs, I will say that imho P's pockets and pocket placement are more SA; esp. when comparing to this shot from the beginning of Raiders:


Standard collar - how close this is to Agent5's collar spec I don't know as we know so very little about what "standard" anything is on a Wested (it's a moving target).

Side strap - 7" long with two piece rectangular buckles - Agent5's specs use the word "rings" rather than "buckles" - these may very well refer to the same things

Pleat depth - 1.5" - I believe this is standard these days.

Underarm gussets - none - This is really a matter of personal preference as some screen used jackets had'em, some didn't.

Other than that, and the fact that Platon's jacket was a 40R as opposed to a 42R with gussets, the specs are identical.

Regarding the persistent questions many of us seem to have regarding what is standard and what represents a deviation from it, I'm thinking we may just want to start another thread that's just a list of such questions that hopefully Peter himself can answer next time he's on. If I get around to it I'll start compiling questions and post it myself later today.

-bd

[Indiana G]

i believe platon's pocket placement is not SA but is his personal preferrence to have them evenly spaced from the jacket edge....that is what i recall.

[IndianaChris711]

Thanks for the info bobbyd, I appreciate it. I can't get the pictures to load either on Platon's jacket, looks like connecting to a server of some kind. Ya we probably need to start a new thread on questions about the jacket specifically. I am not sure how much time Peter has, but I am sure there are people on the forum that will be able to answer questions as well.

Indiana G is Agent5's specs close to SA or what are SA specs ont he Raiders jacket, or does no one know?
Seriously someone needs to look at the jacket George Lucas has and if Harrison has one too. Since they have a few of the Raiders jackets. That way someone could take measurements or something and then give them to Peter and then everyone would be getting SA Raiders jackets. It sounds easy, but I know it is not.

I think the collar is pretty much dead on to Agent5's specs bobbyd, pocket placement could be another post since it seems there is no clear answer on it. Thanks for your help.

Best

Indiana Chris

[Indiana G]

agent 5's spec is pretty close and will get you a nice wested. some of the measurements such as pocket sizing can be a variable based on how big you are going to make the jacket.

SA specs are debatable as the only one who can answer all the stitch nazi questions is the guy who actually has access to the '81 hero jacket. we've been playing with screen grabs, pirating some of _'s findings on the stunt jacket, and making adjustments to what we see as SA since i started the hobby. the bottom line is, what do you want to see on the jacket that you are going to get? what will make you happy?

i for one do not care if the pleat depth is 1.5" or 2" but some guys its a make or break deal. i can easily justify the fact that i do not have HF's measurements so some things being off here or there is fine. one thing that i do prefer however are the center bar buckles (what todd is using). that's usually a make or break deal with me when it comes to a raiders jacket.......just ask flightsuits

[PLATON]

Here's the sketch for those who are interested.



Indeed, it is not SA, as the pockets of the SA jacket were off center.
No time now, I will come back with more.

[Erri]

Most of the points of that famous list for the ultimate jacket are useless to specify nowadays. Peter already set many of them as standard now and knows for the rest what has to be done without specifying every micro-detail.

Present a list like that to Peter and he will surely roll his eyes.

[PLATON]

erri, please share with us the list of your last order, if any.
Or did you just order e.g. size 40 with collar of size 42? (and you let Peter deal with the rest of it?)

[Doug C]

Platon, what about the "stardustrecords" or whatever it is that we keep getting when trying to access your past threads, it's a pop-up that asks for a password - any ideas?

Doug C

[PLATON]

Those photos were hosted on my company's website. My company closed and so did its website but the pics remained on its server. That's why they cannot be accessed. Sorry for the inconvenience. I am contacting the webhost company to release the photos to me.

Will keep you posted.

[bobbyd]

This has almost certainly been covered elsewhere - for new Westeds is the stormflap centered on the zipper, and is the zipper centered on the jacket? I would expect the zipper was centered, and it usually looks like the stormflap is not centered with the zipper...

...the reason I ask is because Platon's pockets as drawn above are (btw thanks for posting that P!) centered on the stormflap; which would mean they're only centered on the jacket if the stormflap is also centered... ?

I have a very vague recollection of reading a post from Todd where he remarked that the zipper was not, in fact, centered, but the stormflap was... and my brain thinks it strange that the zip would not be...

anywayz - hoping somebody in the know can share their insight

-bd

[PLATON]

Whatever the case maybe with the zipper, the result is that Wested will give you pockets centered from the storm flap.

I have not changed that in my sketch, only altered the pocket size, flap shape, distance of pockets from bottom and from storm flap, so to get the best possible look, according to what I saw in the movie.

This sketch is the result of trial and error, and I believe I 've got it.

[Erri]

erri, please share with us the list of your last order, if any.
Or did you just order e.g. size 40 with collar of size 42? (and you let Peter deal with the rest of it?)

I had a list for my last order. I'll have a look where I put it and then post it... if you are really interested

[IndianaChris711]

Platon, thanks for posting the picture of the pocket placement, really appreciate it. So Wested now will give pockets centered from the storm flap, I guess that is a smart move by Peter.

Erri, it would be great if you could share the list from your last order. I don't want to put off a huge daunting list to Peter, but I do want the jacket close to SA, but if its off by just a little I am sure I will be happy with it when I get one.

I may just shoot off an order fairly soon if I don't hear anything about a dark brown veg tanned lambskin in the next 2 weeks or so. If he does get a dark brown veg tanned lambskin after an order, well I will be getting another jacket from Peter then.

My specs are probably going to be off of Agent5's since me and him are fairly similar in size. I am going to call Peter tomorrow to see what measurements he really needs and get some insight on the availability of the dark brown veg. tanned lamb. Thanks for the info, has been an interesting thread so far.

IndianaChris

[Doug C]

and get some insight on the availability of the dark brown veg. tanned lamb.

Let us know what you find out Chris. Good luck on your order, but remember there is always going to be a next jacket.

Doug C

[191145]

When I ordered mine, I gave all the info they asked for on the site plus more - I'm a portly 44. I still had to send it back and pay that exorbitant postage both ways, because the thing was huge and overlapped at the zipper a good 5". In email exchanges I finally second-guessed the whole process and told him to just make it a 42 short which worked. I've had it now for several years and it's just now starting to look a little used, but not much (seam on shoulder showing wear from seat belt in car, etc.).
BTW, you do know that the zipper will be reversed from a U.S. jacket? I don't think there's another option, and I'm not crazy about the 'left-handed' zipper.
Mine is a lambskin ROLA with all-satin lining. I wear it a lot and have no compunctions on wearing it in the rain. I use Obenauf's Leather Oil exclusively on it and my other leather coats, which naturally waterproofs them. I wear it as much as I can to try to naturally get some patina on it but since I'm far from an 'adventurer' it's slow going. I am starting to see some wear on the lining, which is really the problem area with any leather jacket. Maybe the cotton is warmer and more durable, but the satin really feels good to me and it goes on and off very easily. All in all I'm glad I got it, but this sizing and possible international return process is a big PITA!

[Indiana Joe]

I have been wanting to get the Indiana Jones gear for many years. Now I have the time and the money to buy the gear finally. I am wanting to order a Raiders Jacket from Wested, but I don't know a whole lot about the Jacket. I am kind of stuck right now with choosing the authentic brown lambskin, horsehide, and maybe this dark brown veg tanned lambskin Indiana G mentioned Peter might be getting after his trip from Italy.
I have to get measured by a local tailor, but this is what I know so far I am wanting

Style: Raiders
Pattern: 80's
Lining: Cotton
side fastener: Not sure whether to order the brass D ring or the rectangle?
Sliders: Someone mentioned rectangle silver sliders, are these still available.
Zipper: I am wanting the 5 gauge nickel, does anyone know if Peter carries this or not?
Should I get a leather facing on the zipper? I thought Peter put that on standard.

Is there anything else I need to be aware of before ordering a Raiders jacket? I know it is going to take a long time for me to get my jacket after I order it so I want to make sure I have all the specs down on paper. When I called to ask about the shirt and pants, Peter told me I would probably be a 40-42 in a jacket, but again I need to have myself measured. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

IndianaChris

I love that you can custom order a leather jacket. Here's what I ordered back in early 2003 and I still love it...
I asked for the 80's pattern, and
Underarm GUSSETS.
Cargo pockets: Left pocket positioned 1 inch away from storm flap seamand 1 1/2 inches up from the bottom of the jacket hem. I would like eachcargo pocket to be 8 inches long by 6 3/4 inches wide. The pocket flapto be 3 inches from the top of the rolled seam to the lowest point ofthe flap. The right side pocket positioned 1 1/2" from the where thezipper attaches and 1 1/2 inches up from the bottom of the jacket hem.NO INTERFACING IN THE POCKET FLAPS.
Zipper: I would like for the track to EXTEND ALMOST TO THE BOTTOM of thejacket hem.
Lining: Only the collar stand with leather facing.
Back panel: Top of panel extends ALL THE WAY OUT TO the inside edge ofthe sleeve seam.
Collar: NO WIDER THAN 3 inches at the tip.
That's what was most important to me at the time but no matter what you order, I'm sure you will really enjoy your Wested jacket.

[bobbyd]

ic - just wondrin' if you ever had a chance discuss measurements or the possible availability of veg tanned lamb with Peter?
-bd

[IndianaChris711]

Ya bobbyd, I got side tracked on the week I was going to call him, about when I had some time it was probably too late due to the time difference since his place closes at 5:30 London time on saturday. With being busy at my job and all the Holiday stuff going on last week it can get easy to get busy all of a sudden. I did last wednesday though order some Aldens to get that out of the way. I may just order a brown authentic lambskin or a horsehide now, that way maybe I will get it by x-mas or the end of the year hopefully. I will call Peter in the next few days about the dark brown veg tanned leather. I think Indiana G in another post said Peter was having some issues with the place in Italy, not sure what kind. I am probably going to get another jacket after my first purchase, I already love the shirt and the pants, just great job by Peter and his staff. I will report back hopefully in the next few days.

[IndianaChris711]

Here is an update for you guys, I just got off the phone with Peter, he said they have a tan vegetable tanned and he said they have also another color that he said looked close to the new film. He said it looks really nice. This is what his reply was to asking about the dark brown veg tanned lambskin.

I am probably going to go for the authentic brown, when I asked him that I was about 26 in sleeve length he asked am I a very tall person and I said I don't think so, 5'6" is my height, I do kind of have long arms. He always sounds busy when I call because he is probably working hard on your jackets. I think I am going to go with a 25 1/4 on sleeve length. probably close to a 40L, he said the end of the sleeves don't shrink much. He said measure from top of shoulder to an inch from your wrist for the arm length. I guess I am close to a 40L. So there you have it guys.

Best,

IndianaChris

[Castor Dioscuri]

That's odd, since I'm 5'10 and I always get a 40R

[IndianaChris711]

Ya again i am very slender person, I am probably going to order the sleeve probably around 25 or 24.75, I took a leather jacket that fits me pretty well and came out to around 24.5-24.75. What interested me is that Peter has a veg tanned leather close to what is in the new movie. I may try it for after I get my first jacket. Ya I am not quite a 40R, more close to or in between a 40R and 40L. Strange isn't it

[Castor Dioscuri]

Btw, Chris, that jacket picture I PMed you earlier is of me wearing what is basically a 40R. I'm a fairly slim build as well, and for me it seems to be a good fit. A 40L would be the infamous 'car coat' length, as folks here love to call it.

I might be wrong, but I think the more accurate (to Indy IV) leather that Peter's talking about is the novapelle, which is essentially predistressed cowhide that they sourced for their Indy IV prototype.

[IndianaChris711]

Ya a 40L it would be too long for me, 40R might work but do want a little extra leather just in case.

Thanks for the pics Castor, really a nice looking jacket there. I am probably going to go for a Raiders look first, then I might go for an LC/Indy IV Jacket. Peter did not come out and novapelle, he gave me like a number pattern almost. Probably is Novapelle, I will check with him next week sometime to make sure, he seemed pretty busy today.

Indiana Chris

[IndianaChris711]

Well I ordered my jacket over the weekend, I got an e-mail from Gemma with my info and she wanted me to verify the order is correct and that they would do their best to meet my requests. The waiting now begins

[KingNothing]

What kind of leather did you end up ordering?

[IndianaChris711]

I ordered the authentic brown lambskin, since Peter does not have any dark brown veg tanned lamb, I probably will get another jacket sooner or later just like DougC mentioned above a few posts, he said there is always going to be another jacket.

IndianaChris

[Castor Dioscuri]

I ordered the authentic brown lambskin, since Peter does not have any dark brown veg tanned lamb, I probably will get another jacket sooner or later just like DougC mentioned above a few posts, he said there is always going to be another jacket.

IndianaChris

So I'm guessing that the leather you mentioned earlier was Novapelle then? :

[IndianaChris711]

For my next jacket? Probably Novapelle, depends on how much I like the brown lambskin I ordered. My order has not even been processed as I got an e-mail from Gemma again asking I think to confirm something in my e-mail yesterday. Basically that if they can't make a certain reuquest to e-mail me. So I hope I get the jacket as requested for the most part. So I guess it all depends on how this first jacket turns out, which I am having pretty good expectations from with you guys talking about your westeds and seeing a few pics through other posts. So yes probably a Novapelle next time around maybe, we'll see.

IndianaChris

[Kt Templar]

For my next jacket? Probably Novapelle, depends on how much I like the brown lambskin I ordered. My order has not even been processed as I got an e-mail from Gemma again asking I think to confirm something in my e-mail yesterday. Basically that if they can't make a certain reuquest to e-mail me. So I hope I get the jacket as requested for the most part. So I guess it all depends on how this first jacket turns out, which I am having pretty good expectations from with you guys talking about your westeds and seeing a few pics through other posts. So yes probably a Novapelle next time around maybe, we'll see.

IndianaChris

You could get them to put a little cutting of the novapelle or any other leather you are contemplating in with the jacket when it gets sent to you.

Sort of a free sampler for the addiction. .

[IndianaChris711]

Good idea KT, why not get some samples. I will e-mail them tomorrow about sending some samples when they send my jacket.

IndianaChris

[IndianaChris711]

I got an e-mail from Gemma saying my order has been processed with an order number, I will e-mail her about the samples of leather as well.

IndianaChris