I've been visiting various gun shops in the Sacramento Area and this place was right near a job that I had to measure in Granite Bay today. The place didn't look like anything from the outside and the sign just said J&G no mention of guns. Once I got inside it was a different story the walls were line with rifles and shotguns most used and the display cases were full of handguns separated by maker and type. There were lots of revolvers, Webley's, Colts and Smith & Wesson's. I found what I was looking for a S&W model 10 with a 4 inch barrel used but still tight. Unlike some shops which are kinda cliquish the staff was friendly and helpful, since I hadn't purchased a gun in years I had to take a safety test so the state would know I wouldn't shoot myself in the foot.
The salesman told me they buy most of their guns through estate sales and have fresh stock coming in all the time, and they also have customers that come in frequently looking for HEs and Triple Locks.
Anyway, any members that live in this area and are looking for "That Gun" should give them a call or drop in. I'm planning on dropping off my #66 for an action job when I go back to pick up my new old gun.
Bob. http://www.jandggunsmithing.com/
Why do people prefer the Model 10 over the 1917? Because you can get it in 4" barrel even though it is a .38 rather than .45? (and cheaper than getting the 1917 cut down to 4"?)
Is there much of a price difference? 1917's seem to be $800-$1000 lately.
The Model 10 is a LOT easier to come by and is cheaper than an HE-2 or 1917. I got my Victory (pre-Model 10 designation, but same gun) for $150 a handful of years ago. Even though the frame size is smaller, it still makes a nice close enough gun. If I could've found a 1917 anywhere near that price, I would've jumped on it!
binkmeisterRick wrote:The Model 10 is a LOT easier to come by and is cheaper than an HE-2 or 1917. I got my Victory (pre-Model 10 designation, but same gun) for $150 a handful of years ago. Even though the frame size is smaller, it still makes a nice close enough gun. If I could've found a 1917 anywhere near that price, I would've jumped on it!
It seems like the 1917 is slightly more developed than the HE2 -- even though the Bapty HE2 had more action on screen, looking at all of these different guns for some reason I am more taken with the 1917.
Also the 1917 fires .45 ACP -- it seems like ammo (if you're into firing it) is harder to come by for the HE-2. I assume the .38s for the Model 10 are a no brainer to come by.
I have a friend who has a 629 (stainless 44 mag) and we were at the range shooting it, and I'm a good sized guy but the grip and the reach of an N framed S&W doesn't feel as good in my hand as a K framed. I later bought a model 66 (stainless 357 mag) with a 6 inch barrel, I replaced the finger grooved target grips with Hogue mono grips made of Pau Ferro.
Since then I grown to appreciate the vintage guns and have had the desire to own one. The HE are very desirable and rather pricey while the K frames were made in great number and are very reasonable. I paid $275 for my #10 not counting the fees, I had to take a test for a handgun safety certificate and it's good for 5 years. I'll post a picture when I pick up my revolver on the 10th. Bob.
As others have said, many people buy a Model 10 instead of a 1917 because the Model 10 is relatively cheap and easy to find. There is no difference in availability of ammo between the .45ACP and .38 Special. Both can be purchased by the hundreads at the nearest Wal-Mart.
Congrats on teh Model 10, Bob. They're great guns.
Keep in mind that the Model 10 may not take .38 special. The load may be too heavy for the gun, unless it says so specifically on the barrel. It's always best to take a vintage gun to a good gunsmith and get his okay and recommendation before firing anything out of it. The Victory (Model 10) that I have is stamped for .38, but not .38 Special. Never had a problem firing the correct round out of it.
binkmeisterRick wrote:Keep in mind that the Model 10 may not take .38 special. The load may be too heavy for the gun, unless it says so specifically on the barrel. It's always best to take a vintage gun to a good gunsmith and get his okay and recommendation before firing anything out of it. The Victory (Model 10) that I have is stamped for .38, but not .38 Special. Never had a problem firing the correct round out of it.
Bink, as far as I know the Model 10 has always been chambered for .38 S&W Special. Most people just call it ".38" There may have been some early Model 10's and Victory Models chambered for the shorter and less powerful .38 S&W, but I don't recall off the top of my head and I'm too lazy to look it up right now.
"38/200 British Service Revolver (S&W Caliber) - There were over 571,629 of these models produced between October 1941 and May 1945 for the British Common wealth countries. These countries include the Union of South Africa (21,347), Canada (45,328), and Australia (8,000). The remaining 384,100 shipped between 1941 and the end of World War II were supplied by the U.S. Army Ordnance through the lend lease program to Britain for distribution.
Victory model 38 Special – 352,000 shipped to the Army and Navy. Some of these were shipped to a commission responsible for supplying the civilian industries. They will usually have no property marks. Uses included guarding factories, ports, and federal/local government agencies."
My Victory is stamped ".38 S&W Ctg." I've seen some stamped ".38 + S&W," too. That's why I recommended checking the gun and your gunsmith. Just because the gun is chambered for a certain round doesn't mean your vintage gun is up to snuff enough to hande the modern load, which is why it's always best to play it safe and get it looked over. I know you know this, but it never hurts to remind folks that we're not talking about toys here, but serious firearms which can cause serious harm.
Vintage guns can get confusing, especially when they have been made chambered for several different rounds. It can get even more confusing when they are like the Victory model and chambered for a few different .38 caliber rounds. Like you said, better to be safe and check then sorry.
