Raiders style S & W

RichardSK · Post by **RichardSK** » Wed Jun 20, 2007 12:21 pm

Here is a photo of a replica that I made. Although not totally screen accurate, I think it will do just fine to carry in the holster. Just waiting now for the lanyard ring that I ordered to attach to the butt.
The second photo is what I started with. It may not be as good as the Tanaka, but it was a third of the price and I had to rework alot of things anyway.
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/r ... ind2ab.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/r ... /ind2a.jpg

agent5 · Post by **agent5** » Wed Jun 20, 2007 1:07 pm

I think it looks great.

Indiana Max · Post by **Indiana Max** » Wed Jun 20, 2007 2:23 pm

I just agree, great work

Jaredraptor · Post by **Jaredraptor** » Wed Jun 20, 2007 9:30 pm

Good job.

IndyParise · Post by **IndyParise** » Wed Jun 20, 2007 11:40 pm

Mind doin a tutorial?

RichardSK · Post by **RichardSK** » Thu Jun 21, 2007 3:11 am

Walk through.
All I wanted is a prop gun that looks as close to Indy's as possible without getting too carried away. The Tanaka is just too expensive and is too small of frame to warrant the price. Western Stage Props has a rubber gun that isn't exact and would not have the right weight as wouldn't Artsee's as it is resin. The airsoft gun I found was $47 so the total amount came to less than $75.
Looking at the photo of the original gun, the grip extension comes off when the grips are removed. I sanded off the sharp edges at the base and cut the top with a hacksaw where the originals would have ended. The rounded top of the grip was fashioned out of MMD modeler's putty. Form it and when dry, file and sand. I primed them before painting them with a mixture of raw umber, burnt sienna and raw sienna acrylics. After sealing them with a spray lacquer, I when over them with a wash of black and raw umber to darken and bring out detail. Seal again. The putty was used to fill in any areas opened during reshaping and also used to make the diamond shape around the screw holes. Just mask the area with tape to make the shape and spread the putty over.
Inside the grip frame is the compressed air canister which I discarded and replaced with a 6oz lead fishing weight to add weight to the gun.
The trigger guard was reshaped to elliminate the the sharp forward angle by holding it against a light bulb to gradually warm and soften the plastic for reshaping.
The hammer was reshaped using a bench grinder and file before remolding with J-B Weld as a "putty" to make it more like the ideal. (When removing the hammer and trigger, pay attention to where everything goes in the frame or you will have extra parts and a gun that doesn't move properly.)
The barrel was removed by pushing out the pin at the top of the frame where it meets the barrel. Hacksaw the thing (don't know the name) off the bottom of the barrel that meets the extractor rod and save for reattachment to the new barrel. Cut about 3/4" of the back end of the barrel off to use as the means to reattach the new barrel. This is ground down to fit within the new barrel and "glued" with J-B Weld.
The new barrel was made of 1/2" steel conduit and flared at the frame end by ponding an appropriately sized socket (from a wrench set) into the end. The piece cut off the original bottom is attached using J-B. A 2" piece of 1/2" copper plumbing pipe was J-B'ed inside the end to give the barrel a sturdier, more realistic look. The band around the end was made from the same conduit by cutting it lenghtwise and spreading it open to fit over the end of the barrel. Closing it without damaging it by using a vise or pliers was done by using heavy guage insulated wire. Take about a 10" length of wire, wrap it around the sleeve and twist it a few times before putting a screw driver into the twist. Use it as you would a tourniquet and the band will tighten and shape properly. The band will naturally now have a gap that is arranged to the top of the barrel. The new front sight was made from the same conduit and pounded out (it is a double thickness that was folded over). Rough cut and grind to shape before J-B'ing in place. The can be filed and sanded to shape. The barrel was filled with lead to about 1 1/2" of the end to add weight.
The bullet casings were filled with lead and the bullets were made from 1/4 oz lead sinkers cut in half and glued in place - more weight.
As for painting, follow the Tanaka guidelines listed in another post. Not being familliar with the brands mentioned in his post, I used stainless steel Model Master buffing metalizer lacquer, a 50/50 mix of MM sealer for metalizer and Ace hardware wrought iron flat black enamel, and Deft clear wood finish satin lacquer. The final sealing coat should be a number of coats to bring out depth and luster to the finish.
Finally, don't over due the distressing (I used very fine steel wool). Indy's gun wasn't that beaten up. He kept them wrapped in his desk and and lost them often enough to have to replace them before they got too damaged.

djd · Post by **djd** » Thu Jun 21, 2007 5:22 am

Really nice job!

Indiana Jerry · Post by **Indiana Jerry** » Thu Jun 21, 2007 6:03 am

Wow, thanks for the detailed process. You do stuff like this quite a bit, I take it?

Thanks again -
J

RC Halliburton · Post by **RC Halliburton** » Thu Jun 21, 2007 11:51 pm

Can we see some more photos, please?

Nice work!

RichardSK · Post by **RichardSK** » Fri Jun 22, 2007 1:55 am

Thanks for the positive response. To Indiana Jerry, yes, I do like these kinds of projects. It's a challenge to create something out of things in the garage and not spend a lot doing it. This gun cost about $65.
Here are some rushed photos and still waiting for the lanyard ring. If anyone can suggest a place for appropriate medium frame grips let me know - I'm not pleased with these but I can live with them.
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/r ... k/aa04.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/r ... k/aa03.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/r ... k/aa02.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/r ... k/aa01.jpg

binkmeisterRick · Post by **binkmeisterRick** » Fri Jun 22, 2007 9:44 am

You mention it's not a Tanaka, but I don't see anty mention of what brand of airsoft it is. Care to share for those who might be interested in taking on their own project.

RichardSK · Post by **RichardSK** » Fri Jun 22, 2007 10:30 am

Go to speedytoys.com and it's the HFC .38 special FBI revolver.

binkmeisterRick · Post by **binkmeisterRick** » Fri Jun 22, 2007 10:33 am

Gotcha. Thanks! I think you've got some mighty fine results there and I'm sure some folks will take your tutorial to task. Now they know where to get the gun to modify. Well done!

IndyParise · Post by **IndyParise** » Fri Jun 22, 2007 10:36 am

Its a widely circulated "no-name" gun, as in there is no manufacturer on the box etc. If you're looking for one look for FBI Issue Revolver on any site that sells gas airsoft guns. I'd recommend either of these places...

http://www.kapowwe.com/Merchant2/mercha ... ore_Code=R

http://www.shortyusa.com

RichardSK · Post by **RichardSK** » Fri Jun 22, 2007 10:49 am

I believe price is the reason I went to speedytoys.

PLATON · Post by **PLATON** » Sun Jun 24, 2007 4:44 pm

2 questions please

Are you gonna be offering this replica to COW members for a price?
What is the weight of this gun?

RichardSK · Post by **RichardSK** » Wed Jun 27, 2007 11:32 am

The gun weighs just over 1.5 lbs. Do you mean this particular gun or others that I would make to order? How much would you be willing to pay? Take into consideration my tutorial.

VP · Post by VP » Wed Jun 27, 2007 12:35 pm

Gonna make a Bapty version too?

RichardSK · Post by **RichardSK** » Wed Jun 27, 2007 5:01 pm

I do not understand Bapty.

Post by **Michaelson** » Wed Jun 27, 2007 5:13 pm

viewtopic.php?t=21897&highlight=bapty

Go the search function, type in the word 'Bapty' and do a search in the guns section for more discussions regarding this particular Raiders revolver conversion.

Regards! Michaelson

VP · Post by VP » Wed Jun 27, 2007 5:21 pm

http://indygear.com/faq/gunsfaq.shtml

Post by **Michaelson** » Wed Jun 27, 2007 5:23 pm

Even better.....

Regards! Michaelson

RichardSK · Post by **RichardSK** » Wed Jun 27, 2007 5:59 pm

I don't see the point of making a Bapty. I always prefered the other due to it's individuality.

binkmeisterRick · Post by **binkmeisterRick** » Wed Jun 27, 2007 6:01 pm

Everyone has personal opinions on which is the best looking Indy gun. That said, you don't HAVE to make a Bapty version if you don't want to, especially since you made this gun for yourself and no one else. I think you did a fine version of the Stembridge revolver, by the way.

RichardSK · Post by **RichardSK** » Wed Jun 27, 2007 6:38 pm

Thanks. I could use a bit of help. S & W sent the wrong piece and they make only enough of the lanyard rings to be used on the new model 22s. Can anyone help me find one as the one that I made doesn't look that great - I'll use it in a pinch if I have to. Also, I'm thinking of getting a pair of authentic grips and modifying them to fit; the plastic ones don't rock my world.

binkmeisterRick · Post by **binkmeisterRick** » Wed Jun 27, 2007 6:40 pm

Have you tried places like eBay or gun forums for vintage lanyard rings? You might be able to find new old stock or used rings online. I'd check the ads in publications like Shotgun News, too.

binkmeisterRick · Post by **binkmeisterRick** » Wed Jun 27, 2007 6:49 pm

Richards, I just did a search on eBay for "Smith & Wesson lanyard ring" and got a result. Do the same and see if that'll work for you.

RichardSK · Post by **RichardSK** » Thu Jun 28, 2007 1:41 am

Thanks. Found the rings and if I get the three I will offer the other two to other members at cost - if anyone else is bidding, let me know. What does it take to get my rank raised from student? Upon consideration, I can't imagine selling a modified gun for less than $200. The materials cost is about $75 but, the time spent is considerable.

VP · Post by VP » Thu Jun 28, 2007 11:44 am

RichardSK wrote:What does it take to get my rank raised from student?