My in progress S&W build up...
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- Rook
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My in progress S&W build up...
You may have already figured out that Indy's pistol looks a little... clear. And Pink!
Used a broken squirtgun. Cut the barrel down, cylinder, grips, trigger, etc.
New trigger formed from a piece of AL stock. Cylinder is a "second" from a Trigun anime kit. Grips are walnut cut and sanded to the "right" shape.
Still a lot of Bondo to do yet (filling in the dead interior space), and glue the top sight on the barrel.
I'm also considering adding the hinge and making the cylinder flip open (mainly because it's a PAIN to get it back in place if you remove it).
Russ
Used a broken squirtgun. Cut the barrel down, cylinder, grips, trigger, etc.
New trigger formed from a piece of AL stock. Cylinder is a "second" from a Trigun anime kit. Grips are walnut cut and sanded to the "right" shape.
Still a lot of Bondo to do yet (filling in the dead interior space), and glue the top sight on the barrel.
I'm also considering adding the hinge and making the cylinder flip open (mainly because it's a PAIN to get it back in place if you remove it).
Russ
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- Rook
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The squirtgun is close to .44 Magnum sized. Maybe 80-90%% or so of a real one. I have moulds for an Anime gun kit. The cylinder was an "oops" casting, so I figured it was fair game to use.
I got the major hollow sections Bondo-ed up and filled in. I sanded down the grips a bit more so they're much more comfortable now and don't bite into your hand as much. I still need to sand the bondo smooth, and recut the channel for the triger. Shouldn't be too much longer before I can paint!
I did decide to make a cylinder arm out of wood and I cut out the original plastic piece from the frame. I still have to drill a pivot hole and do additional mounting, but it should work.
I'll try to get some more in-progress pics up.
Russ
I got the major hollow sections Bondo-ed up and filled in. I sanded down the grips a bit more so they're much more comfortable now and don't bite into your hand as much. I still need to sand the bondo smooth, and recut the channel for the triger. Shouldn't be too much longer before I can paint!
I did decide to make a cylinder arm out of wood and I cut out the original plastic piece from the frame. I still have to drill a pivot hole and do additional mounting, but it should work.
I'll try to get some more in-progress pics up.
Russ
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- Rook
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Finally worked on this a bit last weekend, so... updated pics!
The cylinder arm doesn't work quite like I'd hoped it would. I'm thinking the size of the pistol frame (among other reasons) is to blame.
I filled the main parts of the interior with bondo and sanded it smooth-ish.
The trigger is a piece of flat stock AL that I cut to size. I originally planned on having it moveable, but the way the Bondo filler worked out doesn't leave much room for monkeybusiness. So, fixed position it will be.
I also had to notch a groove in the bottom of the resin cylinder to give the cylinder enough clearance space. It seemed to work okay.
Whoops! Got a little happy with the dremmel and notched the back area
when cutting the trigger section out. Doh.
Russ
The cylinder arm doesn't work quite like I'd hoped it would. I'm thinking the size of the pistol frame (among other reasons) is to blame.
I filled the main parts of the interior with bondo and sanded it smooth-ish.
The trigger is a piece of flat stock AL that I cut to size. I originally planned on having it moveable, but the way the Bondo filler worked out doesn't leave much room for monkeybusiness. So, fixed position it will be.
I also had to notch a groove in the bottom of the resin cylinder to give the cylinder enough clearance space. It seemed to work okay.
Whoops! Got a little happy with the dremmel and notched the back area
when cutting the trigger section out. Doh.
Russ
- Rook
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LOL. All I did to make that was lay the unmodded squirtgun over a piece of scrap board, and then trace the outline and draw the back side in. But I can do it if you really want it.
Haven't gotten any further other than some sanding. It seems I've misplaced my epoxy, so I'm going to have to hunt some more so I can glue on the front sight.
Russ
Haven't gotten any further other than some sanding. It seems I've misplaced my epoxy, so I'm going to have to hunt some more so I can glue on the front sight.
Russ
- Rook
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Finally got the front sight epoxied in place...
And started painting...
I'm planning at least 1-2 coats of silver, followed by possibly a clearcoat, then 1-2 flat black, some light steel wool based sanding on the muzzle and edges, then possibly either some rub on graphite and then a clear top coat, or maybe just the topcoat without the graphite. Depends on what kind of mood I'm in when I get done painting.
Russ
And started painting...
I'm planning at least 1-2 coats of silver, followed by possibly a clearcoat, then 1-2 flat black, some light steel wool based sanding on the muzzle and edges, then possibly either some rub on graphite and then a clear top coat, or maybe just the topcoat without the graphite. Depends on what kind of mood I'm in when I get done painting.
Russ
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Great job, you obviously know your way around the work bench.
Here's links to some useful tools when you get around to checkering the grips. The ones listed below will cut the same pattern as the Raiders gun pictured here (20 lines per inch):
http://www.indygear.com/gear/images/he2_small.jpg
3 handles, one for each cutter.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ ... 41-010-000
1 fine cutter
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ ... 41-100-001
2 Right hand spacing tools.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ ... 41-400-020
2 dual cutters
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ ... 3511#13511
Looking forward to see the finished gun,
Kim
Here's links to some useful tools when you get around to checkering the grips. The ones listed below will cut the same pattern as the Raiders gun pictured here (20 lines per inch):
http://www.indygear.com/gear/images/he2_small.jpg
3 handles, one for each cutter.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ ... 41-010-000
1 fine cutter
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ ... 41-100-001
2 Right hand spacing tools.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ ... 41-400-020
2 dual cutters
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ ... 3511#13511
Looking forward to see the finished gun,
Kim
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part 4: 6/16/07
Over the last week I got two coats of black on it...
...and today I "finished" the weathering.
It's pretty much complete except for Bullets ( I have some empty .40 cal
brass that fits perfectly, but no lead...) a possible clear coat of paint, I
need to fabricate a lanyard post and ring and last but not least the possible checkering and staining of the wood grips.
Turned out pretty decent I think.
Russ
Over the last week I got two coats of black on it...
...and today I "finished" the weathering.
It's pretty much complete except for Bullets ( I have some empty .40 cal
brass that fits perfectly, but no lead...) a possible clear coat of paint, I
need to fabricate a lanyard post and ring and last but not least the possible checkering and staining of the wood grips.
Turned out pretty decent I think.
Russ
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- Indiana Jerry
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- Rook
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I'm not sure which route I wanted to go for the "lead." I have some solid solder that I use for pewter casting projects, but then I'd have to make a mould.
I think bullets from the sporting good store are rather spendy, and you have to buy them in large quantity (50+) so I may just try and cobble something togeather.
Russ
I think bullets from the sporting good store are rather spendy, and you have to buy them in large quantity (50+) so I may just try and cobble something togeather.
Russ
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I'm thinking this mold wouldn't be TOO hard...just take a drill bit of the appropriate width, drill into a block of wood, pour soder in, push cartridge down into wet soder, pull out (or split wood to remove) when cooled.Rook wrote:I'm not sure which route I wanted to go for the "lead." I have some solid solder that I use for pewter casting projects, but then I'd have to make a mould.
Yeah, I'm probably oversimplifying, but the point is the shape need only be close, and then a bit of sanding should round it out if, shouldn't it? Or is soder WAY harder after being heated? Oh, yeah, that might be a problem...maybe you DO need an accurate mold to start with.
Last edited by Indiana Jerry on Tue Jun 19, 2007 2:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
- Jaredraptor
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- Rook
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Finally got to installing the lanyard ring. It was more difficult that I
imagined it would be and I had to kludge togeather a ring on the inside
to "lock" it into place in the bottom of the grip.
But, overall it seems to have worked for now.
All that remains is the grips.
I'm thinking I may add the border detail, and possibly a diamond detail
around the grip bolt and nut, as well as recessing the nut and bolt heads
in the grip.
That last part will be the easiest, while the former will be the hardest as
I'll have to cut the channel by hand with the dremmel. A daunting
prospect at best.
Russ
imagined it would be and I had to kludge togeather a ring on the inside
to "lock" it into place in the bottom of the grip.
But, overall it seems to have worked for now.
All that remains is the grips.
I'm thinking I may add the border detail, and possibly a diamond detail
around the grip bolt and nut, as well as recessing the nut and bolt heads
in the grip.
That last part will be the easiest, while the former will be the hardest as
I'll have to cut the channel by hand with the dremmel. A daunting
prospect at best.
Russ
- Jaredraptor
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It cost about $35...
for the lanyard ring/post.
Everything else was basically free. I owned the squirtgun (water pistol), the cylinder was reject parts from another project, and the wood grips were scrap maple from another project as well. Some bondo, flat aluminum bar stock (scrap from a project), silver and black paint and LOTS of dremmel time, cutting and grinding parts away so other parts would fit.
The only thing it really cost was time.
Russ
for the lanyard ring/post.
Everything else was basically free. I owned the squirtgun (water pistol), the cylinder was reject parts from another project, and the wood grips were scrap maple from another project as well. Some bondo, flat aluminum bar stock (scrap from a project), silver and black paint and LOTS of dremmel time, cutting and grinding parts away so other parts would fit.
The only thing it really cost was time.
Russ
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It won't be exact, but a standard rifle 1" sling swivel should work as an adhoc lanyard ring.
Many come threaded for screwing into wood stocks, which with careful predrilling should make for easy application.
Bonus, they are usually cheap and most gunstores have a random box of such stuff behind the counter.
Many come threaded for screwing into wood stocks, which with careful predrilling should make for easy application.
Bonus, they are usually cheap and most gunstores have a random box of such stuff behind the counter.