Tanaka paint job

K on the run · Post by **K on the run** » Sun Mar 25, 2007 6:51 pm

I promised a walk through of my paint job on a Tanaka S&W M10 Police 4 Inch so here it is.
Here is the finished gun.

I started by taking the gun apart so I could paint the plastic parts and leave the metal parts unpainted.

I applied a coat of Vallejo STEEL airbrush colour to the plastic part, then a light coat of Citadel colour's Purity seal. The seal was to protect the steel colour later when distressing the gun.
Next several thin coats of a 50/50 mix of Citadel Black ink and Citadel clear varnish.
I then distressed the gun using water sandpaper grain 1500(I used it dry) and very fine steel wool. Be very gentle when distressing.
After distressing I applied the 50/50 mix once more to the areas that was brightest.
Last I applied two layers of Purity seal and water-sanded the most shining surfaces with grain 1500 again lightly and with a gentle hand.

STEEL colour applied, the barrel and sight is polished aluminium.

Black ink/clear varnish applied

Here it is before the final layer 50/50 mix and Purity seal.

The metal parts was gently water-sanded with grain 1500 whit thoughts given to naturally the distress areas.

I've modified the barrel by carefully grinding the plastic down (except the thingy

at the bottom in front of the ejector pin ) to allow a new aluminium tube to be fitted over it. The tube was first widened at the end nearest to the frame using a pair of pliers. I simply stuck the pliers in to the tube and turned then around while forcing them in. I cut a groove at the bottom of the tube to allow it to slide over the thingy

The tube med the excising barrel just where the barrel is widest and the connection was filled and sanded.

The front sight was grinded out of a small piece of aluminium and glued on the barrel using epoxy glue I drilled in a small pin to make it stronger.

The lanyard ring was made from a unbraco screw with a hole drilled through the head. I used piano wire to make the ring and locked the whole thing with a small steel ball glued in to the unbraco head.

I hope this makes some sense .

Best regards,
Kim

Indiana Max · Post by **Indiana Max** » Sun Mar 25, 2007 7:08 pm

How talentated are you ? Holy ####, what a nice product, it looks better than some replics, good job :!: :!:

JEEP · Post by **JEEP** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 5:58 am

Hey K - does Indy know that you have stolen his gun?

You are amazingly talented. I think I will have to buy a revolver and send it your way soon

/Jakob

montana · Post by **montana** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 6:17 am

Watch out for the heat, they'll bust you for sure!

Very nice. I'm not really sure, but isn't the guns name S&W MP10?

K on the run · Post by **K on the run** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 12:38 pm

Thanks guys, I forgot to things
1: I shortened the barrel, now it measure 4" from the cylinder to the tip of the barrel.
2: I replaced the plastic grips with some old wood grips, they look better but not quite sa.
JEEP lets see what we can work out, I'll probably not do the full barrel conversion, to much of a hassle.
Montana, this is the gun I started out with:
http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.ph ... 20Handguns

Thanks again guys

-Kim

Scandinavia Jones · Post by **Scandinavia Jones** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 4:36 pm

That's the best paint job I've seen... can't believe it's plastic. Great work, K!

Marc · Post by **Marc** » Tue Mar 27, 2007 2:51 am

Simply amazing!!! I'm only wondering, when you'll start to recast an N-frame, or even better; mill it out of a solid block of... hey! - Wait a second!!! I work for Europes biggest tool supplier. We have all the tools needed and I could more than probably borrow all tools we need for a fully workable replica kit

Of course, it would be forbidden to put the kit together over here, but who am I to tell people what to do and what not to

Ok, who has a screen accurate N-frame and is willing to strip it appart for this "project" (I don't mean to hi-jack this thread Kim)? - Who is able to use Solid Works (I somehow happen to have a copy

)? - I can get the tools we need and I can organize to get them hardened and blued later on for a good price. Maybe we could use Toolox, so we don't need to harden the steel afterwards - but that is just an idea... Should I start a new thread on this?

Regards,

Marc

K on the run · Post by **K on the run** » Tue Mar 27, 2007 3:50 am

Well my close colleague it a Solid Works expert, he could do it in no time.
Al we need now is a N-frame

I think Toolox would be a bad choice after all we need a replica not a working gun. Perhaps the same type of metal that they use on the Tanaka. It's not as hard as steel and would not be suitable for real guns plus it can be blued.
Interesting. We will encounter a lot of problems here, just ask Todd he made a metal replica but can't sell it.

Maybe a hard plastic/metal compound replica, I believe there's some plastic metal mixes out there.

Regards,
-Kim

VP · Post by VP » Tue Mar 27, 2007 4:10 am

Scandinavia Jones wrote:can't believe it's plastic.

K on the run · Post by **K on the run** » Tue Mar 27, 2007 4:29 am

Thanks VP, And thank you Scandinavia Jones.

The plastic part is the disassembled frame you see in the vip pics. The Tanaka has some very nice metal parts incl. big parts like the cylinder and the plate covering the trigger mechanism. Thous parts really help the over all impression of the gun. The real trick is to mach the paint job whit the metal parts.

Best regards,
Kim

Marc · Post by **Marc** » Tue Mar 27, 2007 8:53 am

I think Toolox would be a bad choice after all we need a replica not a working gun.

Uhhhhmmmm.... no.... of course not 8-[

Regards,

Marc

IndyTaz · Post by **IndyTaz** » Wed May 02, 2007 4:42 am

We got a progress update ect on any possible builds?

Regards
TAZ

Puppetboy · Post by **Puppetboy** » Wed May 02, 2007 11:39 am

Marc,

I will be glad to send you some resin castings of my N frame. Feel free to see what you can do. However, the frame/crane is solid, and the trigger and hammer are not complete. No internal parts.

Here's the problem: If you are going to reproduce all of the internals and make it function, how will you sell it for less than the cost of an actual gun? I got mine for $300. And where can you ship a replica to that you can't buy an actual antique revolver? Most of the situations I can think of, if the handguns are illegal, so are the replicas (unless they have an orange tip).

Send me an e-mail if you are interested in some resin parts. todd@toddscostumes.com

Puppetboy · Post by **Puppetboy** » Wed May 02, 2007 11:43 am

Oh, yeah, you can also buy the Tanaka pistol for $145 and it actually shoots something. All you need to do is shorten the barrel. Perhaps just set up to sell modified Tanakas. Hey, not a bad idea...