My "Non Indy" jacket progress

[Fatdutchman]

In my quest not only for a leather jacket that fits, but for the "perfect" jacket, I found myself speaking with the friendly folks at Johnson Leather. Alan there has been very helpful to me and definitely seems knowledgeable about his craft. I want a '30's-40's style jacket much like some of the vintage ones shown here recently by members of the board. A waist length jacket, zipper breast pocket, slash hand pockets... just a straightforward old fashioned jacket. Well, Johnson has a model "M200", in which I saw a lot of potential (and reasonable price!). After getting leather samples and speaking with Alan, I decided what I want to do. A model M200 jacket in brown horsehide with the deletion of the zippers on the cuffs (it is a motorcycle jacket), making the collar about a half inch wider to suit my vintage style ideas, and the use of some brown plaid cotton fabric for the liner in lieu of the quilted poly-fill nylon (It looks better, and I have no need for insulation in a jacket). He said "No problem". They do that sort of thing all the time. They do lots of restoration and reproduction work on vintage jackets (most of it going to Japan...) and he knew exactly what I was wanting.

We talked about my sizing and the fit I want, and he sent me a "trial" jacket of stock size for me to try on before anything is done on my custom jacket. A BIG plus, as far as I'm concerned!!! I ain't real crazy about buying a custom jacket and then being stuck with what their idea of "fit" is... These are very good folks to deal with!

Well, I got my trial jacket today (it's a model "N200", which is the same thing, but with the "rallye" style stand collar). First thing I noticed is the sheer mass and weight of the jacket. I'm used to goatskin...relatively thin and relatively light (I would guess it's usually about 2 1/2 oz. thickness). This thing is 3 1/2 oz. cowhide. It is like putting on armor! Cool. I think I can get used to it! Second thing I noticed is that the jacket is well designed all around and well made. I am not easily impressed.

I do think this jacket is one size too large, and I want to try the next size down, which I think will be perfect. I want the jacket SNUG, and even with a snug fit, I think I will still be able to wear a sweater/sweatshirt or a thin vest under the jacket. Any colder than that, and I need to be wearing something else anyway. I'm not using the quilted insulated lining anyway, so that will get rid of some of the thickness of the jacket.

I just sent the trial photos to them a while ago, and am anxiously awaiting their response. Again, I think the next size down will nail it for me.

Take a look at what I have so far:




Imagine this jacket in brown horsehide, with a nice big collar...

I even considered asking to put a half belt on the back with cinch straps on the sides, but if the jacket fits well, the straps are unnecessary (and just something for me to get hung up in stuff...which is why I hate buttons or anything on my cuffs). They said that they can even delete the biswing if I wanted. Their biswing actually looks pretty good (some others don't...) and it is functional, so I think I'll leave it. Biswings were not common on old jackets, but the concept was not exactly unknown! (I do want something that looks like it "belongs" in the '40's.)

Well, from my experience with them so far, I can heartily recommend Johnson leathers to do your leather work for you!
www.johnsonleather.com

I can't wait for the final product!

[bleyd]

Sweet jacket

[rbxb]

Kudos to your adventerousness on having your own design. But, lets not let form supercede function.....

A motorcycle jacket without a storm flap. Hmmmmm What would Brando or Fonda say?!

[Indiana Kev]

I actually like that collar. I think your jacket will be pretty sweet when you get it.

[Fatdutchman]

Since I don't have a 1947 Indian Chief, I have no motorcycle (I don't want any other motorcycle!....well, maybe a Vincent...). I can personally do without a wind flap entirely. This jacket has the internal flap (double thick), which I would definitely prefer over the external one.

Even the pockets are leather lined!

This is the rallye collar form. The one I am getting has the normal flap/"shirt" collar...he just had this one on hand for me to try on. The two jackets are the same. The standard jacket (up to size 46) is, I think, $360 some odd dollars. Definitely not a bad price for such a good heavy duty well made jacket. My final price is going to be about $550. Not bad at all, I don't think.

I really like doing business with them. I like being able to try on and fine tune things before the final cutting has begun on the jacket! They can even do totally custom sizing. He said that they will make a trial jacket out of canvas for you to try on when they do that.

I think he can probably do just about anything you want him to do. They do lots of custom work.

Put a stitched-on half belt on the back where the lower panel seam is and add the side straps, and you have your basic "cossack" jacket that was so common in the '30's and '40's.

They also have a "flight jacket" that looks really nice. It is a more-or-less A2 style jacket, that looks like so many civilian "flight jackets" of the 50's. If I were wanting this type of jacket, I would give this one a try.

[Michaelson]

I kind of lost interest after reading how much that thing actually weighs!!! If I tried that thing on, then fell down, I'd be like the little brother in 'A Christmas Story'!! "I can't get UP!!!"

Nice find, FD!

Also looking forward to reading and seeing your final result. Personally I think the jacket shown in your photo is perfect....but then I like a bit of 'breathing room' in my jackets.

Regards! Michaelson

[Fatdutchman]

Aw, it ain't THAT heavy! But it is definitely different than my US Wings goatskin Indy jacket!

I want the jacket to fit pretty snug. I'm also not going to have the poly-insulated quilted nylon lining that is standard (just plain cotton in the body, and plain nylon in the sleeves), so that frees up a good bit of space inside for me....about the equivalent of a sweater or sweatshirt in thickness.

As it is, the jacket definitely doesn't fall short in the warmth department!!

With a "lesser" lining, it allows me to wear it in a broader range of weather. I sent them a couple of yards of a dark brown plaid cotton fabric that I think will look really good with the brown horsehide.

[rick5150]

It is coming along nicely! I agree about the collar. I have seen some great form-fitting jackets in the cafe-racer style that would be absolutely perfect if they had a collar. People often misconstrue "form-fitting" for "tight" and it does not have to be that way if it is cut proportionately. I like to see jackets that are adventurous yet individualized. Keep up the good work!

[Indiana G]

FDM, that trial jacket looks perfect on you. it compliments your form quite nicely. why do you want to go a size smaller? IMO, i think you've got the form fitting jacket look nailed with this one.

...now promise me that you'll smile in the next picture that you post

[Fatdutchman]

Trust me, it can go down one. It looks more "form fitting" than it is...probably because it can just about stand up by itself! I took some other photos of me with my arms out and pulling the jacket over to show how much overlap I have at the front. Alan at Johnson agreed, and thought I could easily go down to my "proper" size...48 (this one is a 50, which he had on hand for me to try. He's making up a stock size 48 to send to me to try, while I send this one back).

I can stand for a jacket to be VERY snug on me...as long as it's properly designed and fitted! Watch some old movies and look at the men in them. See how they wear their jackets, particularly if it is a leather jacket. Some of these guys wore their jackets TIGHT!!! I mean barely being able to get the zipper closed! I don't want it that tight though!