Wested: Choosing the Right Options.....but choosing wisely.

Slick · Post by **Slick** » Sat Sep 30, 2006 4:12 pm

I'm getting ready to order my Wested (ROTLA) in authentic brown goatskin and I'm looking at some of the additional options.

Here's my list, but are some of these already standard with the jacket?:

--Cotton Body with Satin Sleeves
--antique brass heavy zipper (do they have other zipper options?)
--x-box stitching
--antique brass D rings
--storm flap
--raiders collar (smaller)...are they larger on the standard?
--raiders pockets (smaller)...are they larger on the standard?

Also, what about the under arm gussets?...and the back pleat elastic?
What is their purpose?...and does anyone recommend them?

I workout six days a week and stay in shape. I have always had difficulty locating a jacket that fits me properly. I'm 5'8" and wear 44R-46R suit jacket, however, I also have a 32" waist. Jackets usually fit well in the chest and shoulder area, however, I have alot of room in the waist.

Anyone else out there run into this problem? and if so, any suggestions about providing measurement specifics to Wested for my particular situation?

Thanks.

VP · Post by VP » Sat Sep 30, 2006 4:47 pm

Cotton body with satin sleeves is recommended and standard if you don't specify it, AFAIK. Brass zipper is standard, some guys have managed to get a silver zipper. X-box stitching is a great choice. D-rings are standard, but sliders are RotLA accurate and work better. Storm flap is standard on all jackets. Raiders collar is standard on Raiders jackets and all jackets have larger LC pockets on standard. You have to specify the smaller ones if you really want them. Underarm gussets look cool and give more movement room, back pleat elastic is standard I think. Elastic helps in keeping the action pleats closed when not in use.

The original jacket was Authentic Brown Lambskin, with the toughness of today's goat. Authentic Brown Goat is pretty close in color and tough, but hard to distress. Dark Brown Goat distresses more easily and Lamb is the best choice for distressing. Hope this helps, welcome to COW.

Kt Templar · Post by **Kt Templar** » Sat Sep 30, 2006 5:37 pm

Welcome aboard!

It may seem daunting but take a few hours to look back through all the posts in the jacket section. There are many opions and good examples of previous jackets to look through and compare. Everyone has their own thoughts as to what make a "perfect' Raiders jacket.

Wested will allow quite a lot of customisation, in truth the standard jacket is fine and many folks here have it and love it. Here are some of the things I like but it's just my opinion! YMMV

From your list:

--Cotton Body with Satin Sleeves
Cotton is good, I have satin all thorough. It feels great and is appropriate for my climate however after a year and a half it's just starting to show signs of wear.

--antique brass heavy zipper (do they have other zipper options?)

Standard. Some have managed to get a smaller toothed and silver zipper to be more screen accurate. But that's a matter of taste and Wested doesn't like to do it, the heavy duty one is sturdier, big clumsy boys may break the finer zipper.

Left or right handed zipper. British mens' zippers are left handed Americans' are right. Some people have difficulty adapting to the left handed zipper?! Right handed is screen accurate.

--x-box stitching

Good idea, but it's not the end of the world if you don't get it, I havent got it on mine and the straps haven't torn off. I hardly touch the straps anyway.

--antique brass D rings

Ask for rectangular sliders for a Raiders. Currently only antique brass is available.

--storm flap

Standard

--raiders collar (smaller)...are they larger on the standard?

Ask for Small Raiders Collar to be sure

--raiders pockets (smaller)...are they larger on the standard?

Ask for Small Raiders Pockets the larger one are standard

As for sizing follow the sizing threads in this section you'll need to give chest, sleeve, back length, height. Make sure you give collar and waist too as you have been working out your collar may be bigger than usual and waist smaller. It wouldn't hurt to send a photo of yourself (i) Gemma will enjoy it and (ii) I'll allow Peter to judge your bodytype better. He will taper the body if you ask him to.

Colour and leather is really a personal choice and it's the single most likely cause of ordering a second jacket, you often end up getting the other one just to see what it's like.

Back elastic does not come as standard, it's supposed to keep the pleats closed. Ghost Assasin has the elastic and does not like the way it feels.

Gussets, I like them. Some people think that with the gussets you get a closer cut in the body and a higher armhole. That's debatable, I think they look cool

.

But don't shoot! That's a authentic brown lamb by the way.

There's also the matter of zipper facing. This is a 1 1/2" - 2" wide strip of leather on the inside of the jacket between the lining and the zipper running from the collar to the hem. It's supposed to stop the lining getting caught in the zipper. The screen jacket does not have this. You can request "No leather zipper facing". Or leave it.

There are other options but best dig around.

Good luck. The old carpenters' (woodworkers not singers) adage works here too.measure twice cut once!

Indiana Kev · Post by **Indiana Kev** » Sun Oct 01, 2006 1:35 am

Tone thanks for that pic! You just convinced me to get gussets (not meant to be offensive, you jacket looks good). If I don't get gussets and get the 80s fit how much difference does the 80s fit alone have on the way the arms attach to the body?

Slick · Post by **Slick** » Sun Oct 01, 2006 5:20 am

Thanks Everyone for the info and pics! This really helps.

I'm probably going to get the goat for the sake of durability. I'm not too concerned about the distressing, but does the goat distress slowly over time?

VP · Post by VP » Sun Oct 01, 2006 5:36 am

Hey Jason, what's up with the recent face censoring?

Kt Templar · Post by **Kt Templar** » Sun Oct 01, 2006 5:38 am

I was pulling a silly face and it was distracting from the jacket.

Slick, goat is a nice choice, though there have been reports of people breaking down after a few months and hitting it with the acetone because it stays so shiny and new looking.

VP · Post by VP » Sun Oct 01, 2006 5:41 am

Post the original, post the original!

Kt Templar · Post by **Kt Templar** » Sun Oct 01, 2006 5:55 am

VP wrote:Post the original, post the original!

The original prints were destroyed in the process of making the special edition.

VP can you take a pic like that, half zipped up and arms raised 90° to your body. So we can see if your gussets have the same effect?

Indiana Kev · Post by **Indiana Kev** » Sun Oct 01, 2006 6:39 pm

Well it looks like the right options on a wested for me will be the 80s fit and one piece gussets. I don't happen to have $700 so I need to get the order right the first time. Thanks again for the pic Tone.

FLATHEAD · Post by **FLATHEAD** » Mon Oct 02, 2006 6:47 am

Kev:

Where do you live? If your in the United States, you may want to have
Wested put the zipper pull on the "American side".

If not, then the zipper pull will not be on the right hand side like you
are used to.

Is this a problem? Not really. But it will take some getting used to as
every other jacket you own pulls from the right hand side.

Also, you may want to request the extra inch in the front for ride-up.
My first Wested did not have this, and it rode up in the front, and looked
kind of funny.

I requested the extra inch in front, and the new jacket looks good
whether its zipped or not.

If you look at some of the people who have posted pics of themselves
from the side, you can see this ride-up for yourself. Most people don't
even realize they have the ride-up until people point it out. Then it
will stick out like a sore thumb.

Just a few suggestions.

Flathead

VP · Post by VP » Mon Oct 02, 2006 8:35 am

Kt Templar wrote:VP can you take a pic like that, half zipped up and arms raised 90° to your body. So we can see if your gussets have the same effect?

Sure:

There's a silly face for you.

It might look a bit weird because according to FLATHEAD Westeds have 4" of movement room, and mine is one size up, so there's 6½ inches of movement room. Also the shoulders are a bit too long.

Garzo · Post by **Garzo** » Mon Oct 02, 2006 9:04 am

Kt Templar wrote:Gussets, I like them. Some people think that with the gussets you get a closer cut in the body and a higher armhole. That's debatable, I think they look cool

Hey KT,
Do you have single-piece gussets on your jacket? I ask because they look quite different to the double gussets on VP's jacket in the above photo.

Just wondering.

VP · Post by VP » Mon Oct 02, 2006 9:06 am

They sure look like they're single. Mine are double as everybody can see.

Kt Templar · Post by **Kt Templar** » Mon Oct 02, 2006 9:10 am

Garzo wrote:
Kt Templar wrote:Gussets, I like them. Some people think that with the gussets you get a closer cut in the body and a higher armhole. That's debatable, I think they look cool
Hey KT,
Do you have single-piece gussets on your jacket? I ask because they look quite different to the double gussets on VP's jacket in the above photo.

Just wondering.

Yup, they're single piece ones.

Thanks for the pic VP.

Indiana G · Post by **Indiana G** » Mon Oct 02, 2006 5:05 pm

nice expression vp

you've got the "that french guy just stole my golden idol" look down pat!

another suggestion which i requested is to have the pull straps oriented the correct way (towards each other instead of away from each other). it was on my list for instructions to wested. hopefully peter can accomodate this.

Post by **Michaelson** » Mon Oct 02, 2006 5:18 pm

Funny, his expression mirrors the one that's ON my idol.

Regards! Michaelson

Scandinavia Jones · Post by **Scandinavia Jones** » Mon Oct 02, 2006 7:10 pm

Yeop... VP's definitively got the look going there...

Post by **Michaelson** » Mon Oct 02, 2006 7:12 pm

I rest my case. Thanks SJ!!

Regards! Michaelson

Lao Feng · Post by **Lao Feng** » Mon Oct 02, 2006 8:37 pm

Hi there, Indiana Tone! -- Ref gussetts...let me see if I understand you correctly...are you saying that IF one gets gussets THEN the arm holes where the sleeve connects to the body of thr jacket will be SMALLER than NOT having gussets? Curious. Cheers-- Feng

Indiana Kev · Post by **Indiana Kev** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 12:02 am

It appears that my jacket specs change everyday...regarding the 80s fit it looks good zipped up, but how does it look un-zipped? If you have the 80s fit do you tend to wear it open or zipped?

Slick · Post by **Slick** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 7:00 am

Since we're on the topic of gussets, I had sent an e-mail to Wested with some questions on jacket design and they stated I could get gussets, however, they don't recommend them.

Does anyone know why they wouldn't recommend them?

Also, Flathead mentioned about "an extra inch in the front". Is he referring to having the jacket an extra inch longer in the front than the back?

Bufflehead Jones · Post by **Bufflehead Jones** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 6:48 pm

Slick wrote:Since we're on the topic of gussets, I had sent an e-mail to Wested with some questions on jacket design and they stated I could get gussets, however, they don't recommend them.

Does anyone know why they wouldn't recommend them?

Yes. Peter feels that the gussets do not make any difference in the movement of the arms and so it is not worth the money or effort to have them.

Also, Flathead mentioned about "an extra inch in the front". Is he referring to having the jacket an extra inch longer in the front than the back?

Yes. The rideup that he is referring to, occurs when you have the jacket zipped up. When the jacket is zipped, on most people, the jacket looks like it is about an inch shorter in the front than in the rear. Most people don't care for this look. By having an extra inch added to the front, it appears to be even in the front and back, even though it really isn't. When you have the jacket unzipped, it really doesn't make any difference wether you have the extra inch or not.

We have discussed this phenomenon before, and it is really unknown as to why this rideup occurs. We can check the jackets and see that the front and back are cut exactly the same. But, for a lot of people, when they put on the jacket and zip it up, the front magically appears to be an inch shorter than the rear.

It seems that thinner people with good posture, especially if they hold their shoulders back are the ones most likely to not have this problem. This does not always hold true, but they seem to be the most likely candidates.

For those that do not have good posture, are not thin, do not wear their jackets high up on their shoulders and neck, or have a "chest of drawers body" (their chest done fell into their drawers), the extra inch in front is a good suggestion if you want to zip up your jacket. If you never, or rarely, are going to have your jacket zipped, then it really wouldn't matter.

Slick · Post by **Slick** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 10:12 pm

Thanks Bufflehead.

Of all the above pics, (VP, Indiana Tone, & KT Templar's), do their jacket pics represent the smaller raiders collar and smaller pockets?

VP · Post by VP » Wed Oct 04, 2006 5:07 am

Looks like they're all standard pockets, and the collars are probably standard too. The standards look good to me, I don't know why some guys want smaller. If I had smaller pockets all the stuff I carry in them wouldn't fit in, like my hands or gloves.

Kt Templar · Post by **Kt Templar** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 5:34 am

My jacket initially had a LC collar on it and it was huge. This is what Peter called a Raiders collar. I can't imagine needing a smaller one.

The pockets seem appropriate in size I can't see wanting smaller than this. However, I have seen huge pockets on jackets this size, ones that seem to take up half of the height if the jacket. That is what I'd be trying to avoid in asking for "Raiders" pockets. For reference, mine are 'just' big enough to get a regular cd jewel case in there.

Slick · Post by **Slick** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 6:19 pm

Thanks VP & KT.

I stopped by a tailor today and had her take my measurements. She measured my chest as 44"(regular), 27" from shoulder to sleeve, and 24" in length (from collar to top of pants pocket...is this the correct way to measure the length measurement for the jacket?).

If I give my exact chest measurement, but yet want to accomodate wearing a sweatshirt, or sweater underneath....will Wested will take this into account when making the jacket?........or should I just go with the 46" (regular) to be safe?

I don't want the jacket to be skin tight...nor do I want to be swimming in it either.

Decisions.....Decisions.

Kt Templar · Post by **Kt Templar** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 6:47 pm

If you order a 44 it will have as much as 4" extra room built-in you can ask for more room if you want but most people actually like their jackets to fit tight (80's fit). You can even ask for a 45" if you want.

(Eg. my jacket actually says 38", my chest size is 40. The actual jacket measures about 42 I like the way it fits with just 2" room).

Sleeve is measured from the shoulder seam to the cuff. That is the seam on the tip of your shouder on a fitted suit jacket.

Length is from the nape of your neck to where you want it to fall. (This is where the collar of a normal T-shirt would be).

Remember to give your height and waist size.

It's just my impression but you seem to have a long arm to torso ratio?

Slick · Post by **Slick** » Thu Oct 05, 2006 1:41 pm

Thanks KT.

I'm ok with the standard fit. I don't need th 80's fit.

I know my chest is 44", but with many years of working out, I run into a problem with how jackets fit in my chest-shoulder area. For example, a 44R" jacket may fit when I have my arms down at my side, but as soon as I raise my arms, it gets tight in the shoulder area. When I try on a 46R" jacket, I don't run into this problem.

I should just order a 46R standard jacket and if it doesn't fit, I could always send it back for alterations. (This is from my understanding that once Wested alters a jacket dimensions (other than the standard) for a customer, then they would not accept it for an exchange or return.....Is this correct?)

Kt Templar · Post by **Kt Templar** » Thu Oct 05, 2006 2:13 pm

If you are giving your back length the 'R' bit really is moot.

What I suggest you do, if you do have a big chest/biceps is measure around your arm (where the armhole would be) and send that to them. The reason is the Indy jacket can be quite tight in that area for people with big arms! It's an old fashioned cut with highish armholes. They can allow for this. I really think that a photo of you to them would help to.

Indakin also works ot a lot as does _ so they might be able to give some pointers on this subject.

Tyrloch · Post by **Tyrloch** » Thu Oct 05, 2006 2:21 pm

My suggestion would be to get the 80's cut, but as KT said, also give them your bicep measurement. If you have a 30" waist & order a size 46 jacket, you're gonna end up with a LOT of extra jacket flowing around your waist. I know -- I ran into this same problem...

~Jace

Slick · Post by **Slick** » Tue Oct 10, 2006 8:47 pm

Is the "80's cut" a tighter fitting jacket? What defines the "80's cut" from the standard?

Thanks.

Tyrloch · Post by **Tyrloch** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 7:45 am

My understanding is that the 80's cut is a slimmer cut, and includes the tapered back panel, tapered sleeves & sometimes no leather facing on the zipper. When I ordered my first 80's cut, it fit in the waist but not the shoulders, so I had to go up one size. But then again, maybe I'n no longer a size 40, or I just didn't like the slim fit...either way, after I went to the 42, this jacket fit just the way I had wanted it to...

~Jace

Slick · Post by **Slick** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 2:34 pm

Thanks Tyrloch.

Do you have any pics of your jacket that you could post?...or do you know of any other COW member that posted jacket pics with the the "80's cut with the same build as us?

RichardSK · Post by **RichardSK** » Fri Oct 13, 2006 2:53 pm

I would like to know Indiana Tone's distressing method, the jacket looks great.

RichardSK · Post by **RichardSK** » Fri Oct 13, 2006 9:54 pm

Thanks to a fellow member I have found a much easier and film accurate means of distressing my jacket. As none like reading without seeing photos, I won't go into detail but will post within the week under the gear care section as to details of a new technique. My inspiration came from another member who used brown shoe polish after an acetone treatment. My find was to use a 3m sanding sponge and artists' oil paints. In a nutshell, completely soak the lambskin in water three times. The third time it is balled up and left in a plastic bag for a while. When dry, beautiful wrinkles and great draping. Now sand with with "fine" sponge and enjoy the wonderfully ugly highlights (the lamb looks horrible when distressed). Using raw and burnt umber and sienna oils (in tubes), blend a pleasing color and thin before applying. Again, I will post a complete tutorial with photos later under the other section.
Thanks again to Indiana Tone for pointing me in the right direction.