Difference between regular fit and 80's fit?

1stsargent · Post by **1stsargent** » Sun Aug 27, 2006 4:51 pm

And just think all I was asking was the differnce between the 2 cuts. Not a knock down drag out fight on why wested will not make the 80's cut the standard cut.

I believe Wested will not do the 80's cut because he must cater the fit expectations of today and not the 80's with most of his clientel. Lets face it we wear are clothes differently than we did back then and people go in with the expectations of getting that type of fit. It makes his job easier to do this and because he isn't a large enough operation to spend all its time on what fit should be right. That's just my opinion though. But I do wish he would start to incorporate some of the features of the original jackets in the replicas he makes.

Captain D · Post by **Captain D** » Mon Aug 28, 2006 1:22 am

No offense taken my friend

. And, I hope that I didn't offend you, or anyone else here, either. Whether or not Peter chooses to make anything that we mentioned as standard is cool. Either way, Wested still makes a great jacket!

High Regards,
Capt. D

Bufflehead Jones · Post by **Bufflehead Jones** » Mon Aug 28, 2006 3:00 pm

Indiana_Tone wrote:The whole topic of this started with the fact that someone ordered a standard cut and presently does not like the way it drapes on them after breaking in for a bit. That is the point of the entire recommendation of the 80's cut. (80s as in the film jacket, not 80s as in what they wore in fashion back then.) *Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but that is what the 80s cut refers to. Not like 80s as in the way we wore jackets in the 80s. From the film's cut. So, if I didn't know much about Raiders but wanted a Raiders Wested, I'd probably want the 80s cut.

I think '80s in the film jacket and '80s in what they wore in fashion back then are one and the same thing. It is called the '80s cut, because the average American back then had a much thinner cut on their body and could wear a jacket like that.

The fact is that today, 2/3 of Americans are overweight and 1/3 are obese. The average American can't wear an '80s cut jacket. Being as Indy fans are representative of the population in general, the Wested jacket has changed to fit the majority of Indy fans. If a person is thin, and would like an '80s cut, then knock your socks off, and order one. Peter will be more than glad to accomodate you. But please, don't have a 2000 body and think you can order a '80s cut jacket and think you are going to be happy with it. You can't fit a square peg in a round hole.

I read an article recently, that businesses had long used the same standard for how much room needed to be allotted for individual seating. They are having to look at increasing that standard today. While you may think that increasing the size of seats is not a bad thing, it is when you are the business and having larger seats means fitting in less people in the same space and thus your profits decrease.

This is affecting all sorts of businesses. Restaurants seats and stools, airline seats, seats at sporting events, seats for public transportation, even amusement parks. I have seen people start to get on a roller coaster, and have to get right back off as they didn't fit in the seat.

Peter is just ahead of the game and has increased the size of his jacket to fit the majority of his customers. If you are in that "slim" minority, then he can give you an '80s fit Indy jacket.

BendingOak · Post by **BendingOak** » Mon Aug 28, 2006 5:08 pm

This is affecting all sorts of businesses. Restaurants seats and stools, airline seats, seats at sporting events, seats for public transportation, even amusement parks. I have seen people start to get on a roller coaster, and have to get right back off as they didn't fit in the seat.

what does this say abou the US. That we are a bunch of fat F*Bleeeeeeeep.

Bufflehead Jones · Post by **Bufflehead Jones** » Mon Aug 28, 2006 7:51 pm

Yes, it does. A lot of it is due to today's lifestyle. How many times have you seen people fight over a close parking space at the mall and even park illegally in the handicapped space, instead of parking further out in the parking lot. They think that they are too important and too busy to have to walk. I like parking out there, because then these folks that are in such a big rush, won't bang my car with their doors. It is funny actually, that the fattest ones are the ones that will fight hardest for a close parking space. They are the exact ones that could use the excercise the most. It might be the only time they walk all day.

Computers and video games are another big detriment to health. Kids today spend way too much time on computers and playing video games. Go by any elementary school and you will see what I mean. By the time our kids start school today, they are already a loveable, rolly polly, blob of blubber. How can kids today stand a chance of living a healthy life for 70 or 80 more years, starting off by being obese in elementary school. I'm glad I spent my entire childhood playing sports.

I'm not even going to talk about fast food. Super size me? It looks like someone already did. Only recently, due to consumer backlash, have some fast food chains started preparing their food in ways that are not just flat out killing us.

I think you get my drift. One way to look at the differences in a 1980 fit, and today's fit, is to look at basketball uniforms. When Michael Jordan was in college, basketball shorts were litterally that, shorts. They fit tight to the body and stopped just south of the butt. By the time Michael's NBA career was finished, basketball shorts were vastly different. Now, they are so baggy, that they look like they belong to the player's older brother. They can barely be called shorts, as they come down nearly to the ankle. They have been this way long enough now, that when you watch film clips of players back in the '80s, it looks funny. There is such a stark contrast to the shorts of today.

Now, comparing the Indy jacket to the basketball shorts, they were both shorter back then. The Indy jacket is a very short jacket by today's standard. Most jackets today, come down to mid thigh or nearly to the knee. The Wested jacket is the same length today, as it was in 1981. Length is not what we are talking about when we discuss the '80s cut.

We are talking about the fullness of the cut. Like the basketball shorts of today, today's jackets have the gangsta, full, bulky, baggy cut. Today's Wested is not like that. It is still a very trim cut jacket by today's standards. In whatever size jacket you order, the Wested is a very trim cut for that particular size.

Now, when you ask for an '80s cut Wested, you better have an '80s cut body to go along with it. It is even more tapered from the shoulders to the waist. If your body zigs, when it should'a zagged, it ain't goin' to fit right. This cut is not for everyone.

When Harrison Ford makes Indy IV, he will not be wearing an '80s cut jacket. He was thinner in 1981 than he is now. He even wore a larger jacket in Temple of Doom and Last Crusade, than he did in Raiders. Bottom line is, if your body is not screen accurate, your jacket won't be either.

BendingOak · Post by **BendingOak** » Mon Aug 28, 2006 8:17 pm

When Harrison Ford makes Indy IV, he will not be wearing an '80s cut jacket. He was thinner in 1981 than he is now. He even wore a larger jacket in Temple of Doom and Last Crusade, than he did in Raiders. Bottom line is, if your body is not screen accurate, your jacket won't be either.
________

thats is the funniest thing I ever read. bufff you'll gonna kill me.

Bufflehead Jones · Post by **Bufflehead Jones** » Mon Aug 28, 2006 8:43 pm

Glad that you liked it. I meant it to be funny, but still true.

...besides Oak, you just like it because you are a personal trainer.

Toldog07 · Post by **Toldog07** » Mon Aug 28, 2006 9:44 pm

im about 6'2 and slim, my chest is 40R and my arms are long (jacket sleeve lenght is 26.5 inches). My waist size is 34. Do you think the 80's fit will be good for me?

BendingOak · Post by **BendingOak** » Tue Aug 29, 2006 12:18 am

besides Oak, you just like it because you are a personal trainer.

I haven't been a personal trainer for over eight years. I don't like the 80's fit myself.

Kt Templar · Post by **Kt Templar** » Tue Aug 29, 2006 2:11 am

Toldog07 wrote:im about 6'2 and slim, my chest is 40R and my arms are long (jacket sleeve lenght is 26.5 inches). My waist size is 34. Do you think the 80's fit will be good for me?

You seem a good candidate for the 80's fit.

Garzo · Post by **Garzo** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 9:01 pm

I've been checking out posts on the 80s Cut since I'm thinking of ordering a Wested goatskin (if the goats ever return). I have a size 44 regular Wested horsehide that I bought last year and that fit well in the shoulders and sleeves but was just to wide around the torso. I'm not exactly thin, but I do have broad shoulders and a 42 would likely have been to snug. So I had my jacket altered by my local tailor. She simply took it in a bit on the sides and in the armpit, which also eliminated the flying squirrel look when partially zipped.

The jacket now fits better but I'm wondering, is that what an 80s Cut is? A narrower body and narrower sleeev holes?

I read that the 80s Cut also has the different yoke and all that, which to be honest I'm not really concerned about. I'd just like a jacket that is nicely tailored and not flowing or hanging wide, but it seems that the off-the rack jackets are cut very wide.

Does Wested accept the "80s Cut" as one of their options? Like a regular request?

Texas Jones · Post by **Texas Jones** » Tue Dec 05, 2006 5:24 pm

Is it possible, and I know I'm going out on a limb here, that Peter just sends out the same jacket regardless of requests? Unless of course you want something like gussets which are obvious on the coat.

The reason I say this is that my first jacket was a Raiders lamb with thicker skin requested. The second jacket (I had to get it and sell the first, too many ho-hos) I requested an 80s cut and did not want a thicker skin and I got the exact same coat, other than the fact it was 2 sizes larger.

Is it possible that the 80s cut (and some other requests) are in our heads and not for real?

Let me say that I'm in no way trying to say Peter is not trustworthy or anything like that. He does stellar work and I'm very much impressed with it. But you can't blame the guy if he rolls his eyes from time to time at our crazy requests (like Tone's version, which was like my first email I sent to poor Peter) and just sends out the jacket.

Don't kill me for the theory...there is no offense intended!

Kt Templar · Post by **Kt Templar** » Tue Dec 05, 2006 5:37 pm

Interesting theory:) it might be they just cut the jacket an inch tighter (ie 1/2 a size smaller).

But. I took a friend over there and he measured him up... to get a closer fit on the body the work order reads: 17 neck, 40 top, 38 body.

Post by **Michaelson** » Tue Dec 05, 2006 5:47 pm

I'm sorry. Everytime I see this subject title, I chuckle.

It's an easy answer for me. In the 80's, the '80's fit' fit me.
Now the 'regular fit' fits me.
End of discussion.

Regards! Michaelson

Fatdutchman · Post by **Fatdutchman** » Tue Dec 05, 2006 7:02 pm

My jacket is on it's way to me now. When I ordered the jacket, I didn't know there even was such a thing as "80's cut". We'll see how well it does.

I'm a big guy, but not really fat. Think lumberjack or football player (though not nearly as well toned!). I HATE BAGGY CLOTHES!!! Ok, chinos are ok a bit baggy, but that's it! I have watched how clothes have consistently gotten larger and more oversized just in the last few years! I have a couple of shirts from several years ago (maybe as much as 10 years). Sized XL tall. These two shirts fit me beautifully. I can look at the shirts in my closet in chronological order and watch them get bigger, and bigger, and bigger (all the same "size"), and it drives me nuts. (by the way, bigger does NOT equal ease of motion!!! not by a long shot!!!) I would be glad to buy a size Large tall (and I often do in jackets now...TWO jacket returns in as many days....), but a large size shirt collar probably wouldn't button on me.

Speaking of jacket returns....I just returned an inexpensive leather jacket to Wilson leather that I ordered. It was a "waist length" "bomber" type jacket, with an elastic bottom cuff. Sized XL tall. Let me tell you, if Lurch put on 50 pounds, this jacket STILL would be too large for him! The body was oversize on me, and the length ran halfway down my thighs!! The sleeves...man, the sleeves were literally big enough to put my legs into!!! GRRRRR.....

Garzo · Post by **Garzo** » Tue Dec 05, 2006 7:48 pm

Fatdutchman wrote:My jacket is on it's way to me now. When I ordered the jacket, I didn't know there even was such a thing as "80's cut". We'll see how well it does.

I'm a big guy, but not really fat. Think lumberjack or football player (though not nearly as well toned!). I HATE BAGGY CLOTHES!!! Ok, chinos are ok a bit baggy, but that's it! I have watched how clothes have consistently gotten larger and more oversized just in the last few years! I have a couple of shirts from several years ago (maybe as much as 10 years). Sized XL tall. These two shirts fit me beautifully. I can look at the shirts in my closet in chronological order and watch them get bigger, and bigger, and bigger (all the same "size"), and it drives me nuts. (by the way, bigger does NOT equal ease of motion!!! not by a long shot!!!) I would be glad to buy a size Large tall (and I often do in jackets now...TWO jacket returns in as many days....), but a large size shirt collar probably wouldn't button on me.

Speaking of jacket returns....I just returned an inexpensive leather jacket to Wilson leather that I ordered. It was a "waist length" "bomber" type jacket, with an elastic bottom cuff. Sized XL tall. Let me tell you, if Lurch put on 50 pounds, this jacket STILL would be too large for him! The body was oversize on me, and the length ran halfway down my thighs!! The sleeves...man, the sleeves were literally big enough to put my legs into!!! GRRRRR.....

I know exactly what you mean. I grew up in the U.S. and now live in Germany and when I buy something here that's Large, it's like a U.S. Medium while a U.S. Large is a German/European X-Large. I don't have enough experience with Wested to say that their standard cut is very large and wide, but it would not surprise me.

I originally ordered a 44 regular along with my exact measurements, but I don't think I ever received a tailor made jacket made to my measurements. I'm sure I got a simple of-the-rack size 44, which are cut very wide and spacious -- a lot more than say Aero or Gibson & Barnes (at least their ANJ-3 Jackets, of which I own one).

Since Wested does not offer an "80s Cut" "Slim-Fit" option, I couldn't help but wonder if such an order would indeed be accepted. I know many COW members know Peter personally, but is the 80s Cut also available to just anyone?

It's not an option on the Wested website, so for those people eager to find a real Indy jacket but have never heard of Indygear or COW -- do they have the opportunity to get the nice tailored fit of an 80s Cut without actually visiting the shop?

The options on the Wested order site are what they are. I feel a bit awkward ordering something only offered on COW but not on Wested's official website. Has Peter or anyone at Wested ever commented on the so-called 80s Cut and its availability?

Cowboy · Post by **Cowboy** » Tue Dec 05, 2006 11:45 pm

Good Lord! Who would admit to wanting anything from the 80's? Oh wait, I guess Indy is from the 80's........But aside from that-The reasons to not want a 80's cut.

1. Michael Night
2. AJ Simon
3. ALF
4. etc, etc, etc.

Don't Call Me Junior! · Wed Dec 06, 2006 3:52 am

Texas Jones wrote:Is it possible, and I know I'm going out on a limb here, that Peter just sends out the same jacket regardless of requests? Unless of course you want something like gussets which are obvious on the coat.

The reason I say this is that my first jacket was a Raiders lamb with thicker skin requested. The second jacket (I had to get it and sell the first, too many ho-hos) I requested an 80s cut and did not want a thicker skin and I got the exact same coat, other than the fact it was 2 sizes larger.

Is it possible that the 80s cut (and some other requests) are in our heads and not for real?

Let me say that I'm in no way trying to say Peter is not trustworthy or anything like that. He does stellar work and I'm very much impressed with it. But you can't blame the guy if he rolls his eyes from time to time at our crazy requests (like Tone's version, which was like my first email I sent to poor Peter) and just sends out the jacket.

Don't kill me for the theory...there is no offense intended!

From reading the stories here at COW about not receiving jackets from Wested as requested I wondered the same thing. I have a Wested myself but did not request any of the extra customization that is available per the online order form at their site. To be honest I was kind of nervous to order customizations that might not happen. Ultimately since the exact replica to me would also have to be Harrison Ford's size I decided to trust in Peter's judgement that the jacket would be faithful to it's origins and yet be wearable on a daily basis by ordering the recommended jacket configuration in my size - their standard one. It is a truly awesome jacket that I can't even begin to explain how great it is.

Having said that, since they do offer the extra customization it is pretty disturbing to hear that orders are shipped and received that sometimes disregard the requested customizations. If they offer it then they should be able to accomodate it - bottom line. It almost made me not order from Wested and go with one of the other available options but I'm glad I made the choice to go with the Wested.

Are they disregarding the custom requests and sending the standard jacket to all? I know they will make good when this happens but that really dampens all the excitement of the new jacket when you have to send it back and wait for the alterations or an entirely new jacket be made to match the order as submitted!

I bet you there are a lot of days that Wested wishes they could just do only the standard patterns but that is one of the things that helps set them apart from the competition - besides being the original jacket maker for the films of course!

Fatdutchman · Post by **Fatdutchman** » Wed Dec 06, 2006 12:02 pm

I LOVE the '80's! It was a better time....certainly better TV!!! I wish it was 1982 all over again....oh, how I wish...

randystokes · Post by **randystokes** » Wed Dec 06, 2006 12:12 pm

No way I'd want to go back to the 80's! Besides, my body shape was about the same then as it is now. My body shape in the 80's was just an accurate forecast of my body shape in the new millenium!

Randy

Difference between regular fit and 80's fit?

ndy

indy

hat