Yokes

Mike Bolton · Post by **Mike Bolton** » Thu Jul 20, 2006 5:47 pm

The yoke on the jacket comes right at my shoulder blades. This restricts the movement a bit.

Has anyone tried having a jacket made with the yoke higher up? Pics please if you have.

Shawnkara · Post by **Shawnkara** » Fri Jul 28, 2006 3:00 am

I don't know that anyone has ever requested it, but I doubt that Wested would do it. It's the ONE part of the jacket that touches EVERY other part. To move it would mean redesigning the entire pattern, as it would shift every component. I really wish they would just do and make it permanent. NO indy "Raiders" jacket on the market has the correct placement. The Raiders yoke was very high, thus so were the pleats. AND the shoulder seam was shifted forward, off the center axis of the shoulder. All of the current jackets have the bottom of the yoke at the armpit or just slightly higher. This is wrong. It's not accurate, and it's non-functional, too. That pleat is there to accomodate the FORWARD ROTATION OF THE SHOULDER. It does no good at all in the middle of your back.

Mike Bolton · Post by **Mike Bolton** » Fri Jul 28, 2006 4:39 am

Looking in a previous thread I found a message from Peter stating this to be the case.

He also said the jacket would ride up if the yoke was raised. I don't know if this is the case, and it doesn't seem in evidence in Raiders.

The Gibson & Barnes jacket has measurements taken from an original jacket, how does their yoke compare?

Strider · Post by **Strider** » Fri Jul 28, 2006 5:29 am

Keep in mind that the jackets 20 years ago are not the same jackets being made today. It's not fair to judge today's jackets by a jacket used in a movie decades ago.

Last Crusader · Post by **Last Crusader** » Fri Jul 28, 2006 6:39 am

If you order the 80s fit on your Wested the yoke seam will be 3/4" higher than on a regular jacket.

Lao Feng · Post by **Lao Feng** » Fri Jul 28, 2006 7:05 am

The yoke on the G&B is definately higher than the yoke on the Wested. From the photos posted of the jacket from US Authentic, it seemd that the yoke on that jacket was higher still (higher than G & B).

Post by **Michaelson** » Fri Jul 28, 2006 8:26 am

Lao Feng wrote:The yoke on the G&B is definately higher than the yoke on the Wested.

That's because it was patterned from an original screen used Raiders stunt jacket, so it would reflect the original yoke placement of the original Wested of the 80's.

Regards! Michaelson

VP · Post by VP » Fri Jul 28, 2006 11:19 am

Strider wrote:Keep in mind that the jackets 20 years ago are not the same jackets being made today. It's not fair to judge today's jackets by a jacket used in a movie decades ago.

What's the difference, except that lambskin was tougher back then?

Post by **Michaelson** » Fri Jul 28, 2006 11:49 am

Different tannery. The lambskin was a bit thicker and draped better than the current supplier. The old tannery went out of business not long after Raiders was released.

You can tell a definite difference between leather sources (which really surprised me). The lambskin from G&B feels LOT tougher and heavier than the standard Wested source, but the G&B is New Zealand sourced, and Wested is from England and Italy, so their tanning processes (though pretty much the same) do seem to have a completely different finish.

But, that said, the old Wested English lambskin was indeed a thicker leather.

Regards! Michaelson

Rundquist · Post by **Rundquist** » Fri Jul 28, 2006 7:10 pm

I've personally seen hide thickness vary in lambskin from both Wested & G&B. They are both really at the mercy of their leather suppliers. They can specify what they want, but it’s really up to the leather supplier to follow through. All Wested or G&B can do is refuse a shipment if the hides are not up to their specifications. Just because one batch of hides is great, it doesn’t mean that the next will be good. Jacket manufactures essentially have to constantly monitor every batch of hides that comes in. I remember once Peter had to refuse several goatskin batches because they were not up to his specifications. Dave at G&B has told me that he has to stay on his leather supplier to keep the colors true to what he asked for even after the color has been established. The finish of the hide also has to be closely monitored.

As far as the yoke placement goes, you guys are just going to have to accept the fact that the Indy jacket is not very functional. It looks cool and all, but it’s essentially a fantasy jacket. If you really want the bi-swing back to work, you wouldn’t even have a yoke at all (like the Navy G-1). And what ever design you use for the back also needs to be used for the lining. Unless you do that, the pleats are not going to work anyway, so why split hairs. The original didn't have any pleats in the lining. Cheers

Lao Feng · Post by **Lao Feng** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 10:47 pm

Rundquist is probably spot on about the yoke bizness. The yoke and side pleat combination (Indy jacket) is probably much less functional than the side pleat with NO yoke option (as in the G-1).

I did note from the photos, that the US Authentic yoke is likely the highest of all the Indy jacket manufacturers we know of.

Skippy · Post by **Skippy** » Mon Jul 31, 2006 1:22 pm

Mike - I had exactly the same problem with my first Wested, which was solved by going one size up.

If you want the raised yoke seam accurate to the Raiders jacket, as for the 80's cut as Last Crusader said. I can't vouch for if this will work as I haven't tried it yet myself, although I intend to.

Raider · Post by **Raider** » Wed Aug 02, 2006 5:04 pm

WOW! Rundquist! Your G1! Whose is it? Which company? I am pursuing a perfect Maverick's jacket and this one looks just like it (I think even the collar is very close!).
I suppose you are showing one jacket on these pictures, but I can clearly see the color difference. I've never seen it live and I am SO curious how it looks without flash! On your second pic, G1 is much darker - I hope it is close what you see live... I appreciate any info/hints.
You may read more at: http://www.moviespirit.com/?p=5

Cheers,
:junior: Raider

mark seven · Post by **mark seven** » Wed Aug 02, 2006 6:22 pm

Can I ask which part of the jacket is the yoke?,sorry if this is a stupid question

Mike Bolton · Post by **Mike Bolton** » Wed Aug 02, 2006 6:25 pm

After looking at Flightjacket.com's custom section, I think they'd be able to make an Indy jacket with yoke that also has the action back going all the way up.

Look at how the pleat works on a flight suit:

You could have the back be two piece, with the yoke in the same spot, while running the action back further up. I haven't discussed this with U. S. Authentic though, and I don't know how much it would cost.

Kt Templar · Post by **Kt Templar** » Wed Aug 02, 2006 6:57 pm

Interesting idea Mike, but then it wouldn't be an Indy jacket.

The yoke or the horizontal strip from the top seam to between 4-6 inches down the shoulders is intergral to the design of the jacket.

Rundquist · Post by **Rundquist** » Wed Aug 02, 2006 6:58 pm

Raider wrote:WOW! Rundquist! Your G1! Whose is it? Which company? I am pursuing a perfect Maverick's jacket and this one looks just like it (I think even the collar is very close!).
I suppose you are showing one jacket on these pictures, but I can clearly see the color difference. I've never seen it live and I am SO curious how it looks without flash! On your second pic, G1 is much darker - I hope it is close what you see live... I appreciate any info/hints.
You may read more at: http://www.moviespirit.com/?p=5

Cheers,
:junior: Raider

Sorry to get off subject. It's not my jacket. A review and pictures can be found here.

http://www.acmedepot.com/a2jacket/eval_dir.shtml

It's the Real McCoy's Label M-422A

Cheers

Raider · Post by **Raider** » Thu Aug 03, 2006 3:31 am

Thank you very much!

Mike Bolton · Post by **Mike Bolton** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 3:49 am

Kt Templar wrote:Interesting idea Mike, but then it wouldn't be an Indy jacket.

The yoke or the horizontal strip from the top seam to between 4-6 inches down the shoulders is intergral to the design of the jacket.

This picture was posted in the thread about the Magnoli Adventure Pants. It doesn't looke like there is a yoke on this jacket, and the pleats go up to wear they'd be functional.

Though it could be a trick of the light and the pose he's striking that...

Skippy · Post by **Skippy** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 12:57 pm

The jacket has ridden up on his shoulders. Look at where the bottom of it is compared to his trouser pockets.

Now look at this pic from the same scene...

Jacket bottom is now in line with the rear trouser pocket buttons. Trust me the yoke/seam is there

Infact I'm sure Peter said something about the Raiders jacket's 80's cut caused the jacket to hang off the shoulders, but I thought he meant the other direction