Sleeves / New Jacket?

McFly · Post by **McFly** » Fri Jul 21, 2006 6:50 pm

Looking at my cotton Wested in the mirror this afternoon I noticed how much my sleeves ride up when I stretch out my arms. Now, I know that these sleeves do ride up a little bit anyway - as in Raiders where Indy and Marion are behind the boxes after just coming out of the Well of the Souls and are looking at the flying wing (you see Indy's hand on a box and his sleeve is showing lots of his Magnoli shirt cuff).

Now - how much exactly are they supposed to go up? My sleeves might be a little short... they don't end at the first knuckle of my thumb - they sort of sit where a wristwatch would be, but a teency bit lower. If I stretch out both arms as far as I can go, my sleeves go up quite a bit, so that there is 1 hand width between where it is and where it is when I relax my arms at my sides (did that make sense???:?)

Are there some screens where Indy's sleeve is significantly high on his arm and showing a lot of sleeve? This jacket is almost 2 years old - I got it when I was about 15 (I got this one because it was like 2.5x cheaper than the leather Westeds).

I really want to get a new jacket for the QM this year and for Halloween and because this year is my senior year in high school (I turn 18 in March! Woo!) and I want something special to come with me through it all... I might have to get a Raiders jacket plus 1" (I'm not going to call it a ToD jacket! ;-)) and get an extra centimeter or two added to the sleeve length.

What do you guys think?

In Christ,
Shane

Mulceber · Post by **Mulceber** » Fri Jul 21, 2006 7:15 pm

I agree with that idea, although I'd say the length of a Raiders Jacket is fine, no need for an extra inch. :junior: -IJ

Doug C · Post by **Doug C** » Fri Jul 21, 2006 7:47 pm

I think that if there's a tiny bit a doubt that your sleeves aren't long enough, it'll bother you as long as you have the jacket. So, I'd make sure that the new leather one (when you do have one made) has longer sleeves than the one you have now by atleast an inch maybe more. That doesn't mean you have to change the length of the body though, if you like where yours is now. Sleeves that are too short on a jacket drives me crazy, and I've had too many that way.

Doug C

Kt Templar · Post by **Kt Templar** » Sat Jul 22, 2006 6:30 pm

Ok, first question: Do you think you have much more growing to do?

I'll bet at your are you have a lot of filling out coming up I know between 18 and 25 my shape changed a lot.

This may not be your last jacket as you will probably grow out of it so best to build in a little growing room.

You are of the long limbed persuasion

so I suggest measuring as many on the board do. Shoulder seam stop at the elbow elbow, turn and then on to the joint where the thumb meets your hand. Best get someone to measure for you. You can screw it up if you try to measure it on yourself.

If you were in your mid twenties with no growing to do I would recommend to the wrist joint plus 1 inch. As does Peter on various occasions.

Indy's jacket in Raiders fits exactly to this point when his arm is at his side, in the driving scenes it goes a way up his arm exposing the cuff of his shirt.

For the chest size take the tape around your chest under the armpits and hold the tape maybe 2 inches away from your chest loosely. This will give the breathing room you need. It has been suggested that Wested adds 4 inches to that. I don't know but that's the way Peter holds the tape (I have been measured by him twice.)

Hope this helps.

If in doubt err on slightly long sleeves, it's always easier to shorten them at a later date.

On the body, if you want a Raiders don't go too long, if you want an LC it can be longer.

Good luck!

McFly · Post by **McFly** » Sat Jul 22, 2006 7:29 pm

Okay - you mean basically measure from my shoulder seam to where my thumb meets my hand? That makes sense to me.

I don't think I'll be getting much taller, but I do think - or rather hope - that I'll fill out a little bit, so yes, that would be good to put into the equation, wouldn't it?

Would I make my shoulder width measurement a little bit bigger? I don't really like the idea of the shoulder seams sitting off my shoulders... I might have to do that though.

I'll definitely give myself a little room in the chest this time for sure. On my cotton Indy I measured it kind of snug and it arrived just as snug - don't like that idea!

So I'm not going to worry about the actual length of the jacket then - it seems to be fine that way; the cotton still fits in terms of length and shoulders, it's just the sleeves that are getting short, but then again I haven't filled in much since then anyway.

I'll probably also take a weight training "class" next year (ie. an hour in the weight room every morning) and build some muscle. God knows I could use it...!

The thing is though, I really want a new Wested - my room hasn't smelt like leather since my bullwhip got here, and the cotton Indy just doesn't keep me warm in the winter and when it rains.

In Christ,
Shane

Kt Templar · Post by **Kt Templar** » Sun Jul 23, 2006 4:44 am

IndyMcFly wrote:I don't think I'll be getting much taller, but I do think - or rather hope - that I'll fill out a little bit, so yes, that would be good to put into the equation, wouldn't it?

Would I make my shoulder width measurement a little bit bigger? I don't really like the idea of the shoulder seams sitting off my shoulders... I might have to do that though.

Maybe an inch, inch 1/2 extra but no more. The seams are supposed to sit on the shoulders, it looks like an eighties drop shoulder jacket otherwise, NOT a good look!

As for the sleeves are you going to ask for extra tapered?

Allow a little room but not too much. You see so many folks here selling up because they've gained/lost weight after a few years. So you wouldn't be on your own. But boy that must be heart wrenching!

Oh one suggestion, send a picture of yourself full length. so they can see what sort of build you are.

Ark Hunter · Post by **Ark Hunter** » Sun Jul 23, 2006 10:38 am

Yeah, I'd get some extra sleeve lenght if you think they are short now. I've had two used Indy jackets that had sleeves that were a hair short. Now I've got a custom one I'm happy. As KT said it's much easier to shorten them than lenthen them.

They will naturally ware a little shorter over time and breaking in (get that nice wrinkled sleeve look) and may shrink some if you toss it in the dryer or get it soaked or something giving it that lived in look.

I ordered 26" sleves and they've either shrunk or they didn't make them that long as they are only about 25"-25-1/2" now. By looking at you could could probably easily need the same lenth. (I've got a 40R and the normal sleeve lenth for that size is 24-1/4"according to the chart on Indyjacket) If I were to get another one I'd even add more to that I think. At least another 1/2". The sleves are still above my thumb joint when at my sides, but about right for where Peter tells you to mesure to.

I also got the one piece underarm gusset which probably helps keep the sleeves longer when driving or raising my arms.

McFly · Post by **McFly** » Sun Jul 23, 2006 12:59 pm

Very interesting, Doc. I'm thinking I may want to get some gussets - I just hate when I move and my sleeves all of a sudden look really short. I know I want x-box stitching though and probably rectangular sliders.

In terms of extra tapered sleeves... I think I'll just get regular ones. Would extra tapered ones give me any advantage other than fitting more closely?

In Christ,
Shane

BendingOak · Post by **BendingOak** » Sun Jul 23, 2006 2:44 pm

indyMcfly, the two best thing to do toget the best fit. 1st go to a talor and let him take measuments of you and 2nd take measurments of a jacket that fir you very well.